Gee

Got my lines shortened thanks to Waitamata Hydraulics and had another go at the power steering. The new ram lines were not going to work so I refitted the old lines, easy as. Fitted some heat sheathing as the old lines got scorched on the headers And fitted, ish. Did I mention I hate flared fittings? They can be a prick to start. Much swearing was required to get them fitted. Aaaaand fail Better on this side The lines hit the headers at full left lock and are close to the frame at full right. No wonder they got scorched. In theory I should be able to manipulate them out of the way as the hard lines off the power valve are the same but I need a break before I lose my shit and throw a tool.

Got my new steering components delivered recently, recon control valve, ram, and lines. the valve and ram went in ok... bit of an issue with the lines... Hard to get a good view but I don't see how these are ever going to fit. The pipe is longer and hose shorter than the original and they are not clocked correctly to line up. Look ok in the last photo but almost impossible to plug in. need to double check I'm connecting them the right way around too but that is not the main problem at the moment. Open to any suggestions.

Yep, just one. It seemed to clean it up. Running direct with no PCV valve should clean it up and prove the system but could cause it to lean out at revs. If it did clean it up maybe the PCV is gunked up? I fitted the FiTech as the Fairmont was a prick to start if left sitting and backfired a few times which blew out the power valve causing massive over fueling. With the FiTech and the supporting mods it started first time every time and ran mint. The carb would bog as I was dumb and fitted big valves in 2v heads with a only slightly warm cam. The EFI cleaned this mostly up. I could now floor it and it would just go. It even gained 10kw when mashed on the dyno compared to 18 months of driving. While it is cheap and other systems are better the FiTech still works like it is supposed to. the only issue I had was the alternator (120amp bosch) which would now not come online from startup unless I blipped it. WOF guys flattened the battery every time by not doing this.

I kept the FiTech throttle body and will still use it, I found it was a massive improvement on the carb and cheap and easy to use. The new fuel sump looks much better so I doubt you will have the same issues. My Fairmont originally only had standard breathers and when I stopped I'd see fumes but once running a PCV that seemed to stop. The Mustang has a PCV as well and has no issues with exhaust but did get fuel fumes with a full tank. I think the cap was not sealing but I think I fixed that. Did you notice a change in the exhaust fumes with the FITech? My Fairmont was cleaner afterward due to better AFR but that is just tailpipe not under bonnet. I could actually see the gassing on the old Cleveland till I ran the PCV. Since I owned the Fairmont for 20 years I was used to a bit of fuminess compared to my daily drivers.

Hi Flash, I had a FiTech fuel commander and the only place it would fit is in front of the shock tower. The only issue I had was a leak from the -ve terminal due to poor quality of the unit. FiTech don't make mine now and I sold it as I'm going to use an in tank pump. the WOF guys didn't care where it was fitted. I'm a bit slow to the exhaust party but did you sort it? When I fitted pacemakers to my Cleveland they had heaps of leaks and only cleared up with gasket sealant, new gaskets didn't help. I could even hear them when the bonnet was up. Have you tried high temp gasket goo?

Mustang centre have all the replacement parts for around $1k. It would be nice to have a cleaner install and rack and pinion power steering would probably be much better in operation but it is cheaper to keep it original and does not require a cert which any mod would.

First step, jack your car... These items were leaking from everywhere so need to come out. Had to buy a tool for the steering arm, hit it with a hammer and off she comes The ram was a bit stubborn, hammer didn't work had to use heat. Lucky didn't need to move up to a torch The lines get too much heat. From the header I think, not the hot air gun, I'm not that gash. All the tools required because Ford. Need to take it in to a power steering specialist now, I'll hopefully get new seals, lines, and bushes. I might replace some other steering and suspension bushes while it is up in the air.

The main things I'm trying to achieve are temperature isolation from the manifold as the phenolic does not transmit temp like aluminium and also by using an open spacer when I fit my EFI later it has a consistent signal for the MAP sensor. TBI systems do not like dual plane manifolds unless there is a slot. I have seen tests where a spacer can add small amounts of power due to longer runner length and possibly better 'signal' at the jets but this will be minuscule on my baby v8.

Slightly annoying as I wanted to ignore aesthetics as it looks good from 2m away but being a Mustang I can fix anything on the car. When someone backed into my Fairmont and bent rare as hens teeth chrome highlights I lost my shit.

FUCK! Backed the Mustang into the garage to make it easier to work on the front end and hit the bench like a bellend. Claim lodged, if anyone asks my paint was pristine show winning condition.

Finally got my carb spacer from summit, it got caught in customs. Not sure why, I didn't get charged anything so maybe just adding FAF. Good chance to check out my performer clone intake. I was lazy and didn't disconnect the carb, just unbolted it and moved it to the side. Spacer kit comes with studs, used the locknut method to screw them in and did them up to 5 wrist pounds Finished product. 1/4" extra height which fits under the bonnet with about 1/2" to spare with the current air cleaner height. Hopefully this keeps the carb a bit cooler and maybe might add a tad more airspeed and the 1 extra HP will make all the difference. Not much I can do about ambient air temp so that will always be hot on a hot day in traffic.

So it comes with wiring to the front of the car but you have to assemble the tank? Or by everything do you mean the pump and sender? I'll need an alternator, I ran a Bosch 120A on my Fairmont. I'll also need wiring and plumbing to the front of the car.

Made it to Kumeu on Sunday. Light turnout compared to Saturday but did manage to find the Mustang's older brother.

Decided to have a quick look at why the rear windows don't go down. Started by pulling out the seats and then side trim The previous owner really liked house insulation, not sure if it is achieving much The side panels are actually metal. Mustang guys probably knew that but news to me. I can see why you'd insulate it but dynomat or similar would be better. Later project. Can see how the window system bolts in and also (badly focused) the inertia reel. What you can't see is the rollers on the bell crank came off the fixed and moving sliders. Still can't see it here but it was wedged at the top behind the inertia reel. I think the belts were probably fixed and inertia reels added and there may be an interference problem but getting the rollers back on proved to be a bitch. I got one back on the window but not the fixed slider and then removed the roller to see if I could set that first and probably made things worse. I probably need new rollers and to actually remove the system and clean it all up. I could then also clean up the red stuff inside the panel while I'm at it and cavity wax it all. I think there will need to be a take two. Did manage to slide the window down by hand though. Secure as.

Got some fuel line insulation from Supercheap (not cheap) and chucked it over my braided line. Hopefully it will help reduce percolation in traffic. Comes as a 1m length, luckily that is more than I needed. The original setup is quite tidy and looks nice but it does sit in the hot engine valley, taking the longest path possible from the pump, due to the carb inlet location, and could add heat to the fuel at low fuel flows. That's the theory anyway. The insulation is fibreglass covered in silicone (I think) and should keep things cooler. I also have a 1/4" phenolic spacer coming which should isolate the carb base and prevent heat transfer that way. That will be the next job.

Had some spare time and thought 'should I look at the numerous power steering leaks that could cause a major problem later or the hood mounted indicator that only I can see?' So Of course I did the easy job that didn't matter. Bulb was ok and there is only one wire so must be an earth through the case. No continuity through the bulb holder to the -ve terminal. Not earthed through much Cleaned up the lens unit thingo and screws Much better Lights work, sweet.

More drag photos

Drove down to the Old School Drags. 1hr drive down 2hrs back in traffic. I don't think the car overheats (guessing as the gauges are more faith based than accurate) but it did die a couple of times and I needed to get pushed off the motorway. Wouldn't restart until it had cooled down but ran mint once restarted. My running theory is that the fuel gets too hot and once the carb cools enough it will restart and run. I need to see if I can fit a 1/2" phenolic spacer beneath the carb and I might remove the braid off the fuel line. I never hit this issue with my Fairmont but the water temp would get too hot in that and I'd get nervous well before it overheated. The gauges were much better though, ironically for an XD. No mustang pictures but I did get some of other cars

Took it for a run at our tarmac sprints the other day. Little autocross and 1/4 mile. No timing gear so no idea on times but did a nice wheel hopping one wheel peel with about 85mph at the finish. Must have looked like a mad man spinning the wheel in the autocross, not really suited for that but fun. Have to assume it is all good as none of the gauges are reliable. Tried to track down some action shots but all I've got is this:

Yeah Summit is my usual go to I have not ordered large items or expensive ones though. How was shipping and tax? Did you get a loom for it as well or just plan to wire up yourself? I have the TBI but need a tank for a nice clean install and I'll need an alternator and wiring but I should have everything else from my previous install.

Cool bird. Where did you get the EFI Tank? I was thinking of getting an Aeromotive Stealth II for my Mustang.

Oh, and a bit more automotive archaeology, Found a durrie in the ashtray. A previous owner must have been a smoker.

Muzzy is still wetting the bed with the red stuff so I had to have a look Nothing on the trans lines I repaired and the marks are too far back on the floor Found some drips on the end of the power steer ram. I thought this system was leaking but I might need to remove the whole system up to the pump. Oh, and there seems to be some creative parts usage. You'll know it when you see it. I also checked the wheel security while it was on jacks. There seems to be a bit of play vertically but not laterally in the front wheels. I pulled one to look and looked at the bearings. Plenty of grease (maybe its been serviced) but I can't check further. I might get a pro to check at some stage.

More automotive archaeology, WTF is this thingo? It is mounted beside the radiator, that is the washer bottle on the left. Haven't had time to trace the wiring yet.

Investigated the reason behind the drivers seat not tilting forward. It seemed to be just sticky, you have to wiggle it to release where the passenger side just works. Has a weird extra tab with an eyelet that doesn't seem to do anything though and is not on the passenger side. Crap photo but not sure what the eyelet does. I also removed the seat back as I thought it might be stuck in there. It wasn't but interesting for a look. The seat cover is not original and the holes don't all line up. Nice to see how it is attached as I need to recover the drivers seat at some stage and I may just order some foam and a cover from TMI but I'll need the clips and pliers. I think someone added in some extra foam behind where the cracking is on the front.