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Posts posted by Vk304
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Since front was painted as all shiny and straight, it really turned the bumper into an eyesore, dented in many places, surface rusty weathered, and pushed in badly, same deal for the rear bumper, being made of steel, and it was a nice day out i had a crack at a quick and dirty beat it out and bog it job..
Painted it with some quality paint, i think they came out surprisingly well... also opened up some airflow by moving number plate, left the old camper lpg thing in
Aaand did a light coat over the indicators, tail lights, to make them less bright and colorful.
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Build a janky wheel polishing/ rim sanding thing while i wait for some suspension and body parts ,made out of donor vans front wheel hub and a bracket with a rubber thing in a drill, works well! Autosol really works best after some high grit wet sandpaper, better than by hand
Though tyre off and valve stem out would be ideal but im lazy and cheap, the drill is speed ajustable.. so it dont hurt as much at lower speeds lol
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Then did the inside of the boot as it was a bit damaged and uneven paintand the quarter, which came out too light first time so sanded it right back down, mixed some black base with it and it is now okay, paints nice but unfortunately you can see where it meets in the light, but okay from a distance lol
The method i came up with was paint primer, sand it right down, especially the edge where it meets paint, then base, x3 and sand between on the edge part, then clear same again, each time overlapping, drying with a heater in between.
A lot of work for average result, but didn't have enough paint left for the whole quater, so it is and now its only the engine bay to do looks alright
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Cheers to @flyingbrick for giving me some arms he doesnt need, now i need to figure out if my track bars need heim joints or just a solid bushing type ...? Would they work fine or should i buy some more heim joints as i only have 2, dont mind the verniers and lighter, took pictures of measurements and thats all i got to put up atm ..
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Oh yea was looking at the wrong picture, yea it probably has, may fix that
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How do you mean gaps ? The wheel was loose because i forgot to tighten the nuts , and its all factory parts
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Nice good information thanks, yea i wanted to make sure it will never hit the ground, so with blocks will be just above rim bottom
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After a LOT of measuring of the car at rest, a copy of caltrac bracket measurements that someone put online, and limiting factors such as the lowest point on the drums which i was going for, though it could probably be lowered to the edge of the rim ,so will probably lower middle bracket to that.. but this is v1, should help hold the diff and pinion angle in place and allow movement without any kind of binding problems??i came up with something that might work and all angles and lengths can be pulled from
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Yea man thatd be great, am still planning on doing that, ive got 2 joints just need 2 more and some bolts and tube i think around 32mm but i have suspension arms i can cut up . . . Lol
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Might have to, definitely aim to see how fast it will go once finished
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I have 2 joints i could use for caltrac, maybe some more in town, obviously no company makes them for a 1988 nissan vanette, so id make a setupthis guys confirming my pcd to make sure no more wheels wanna fall of lolnot too flash in the bushing department either, might have to turn some nolathane ones at some point ??
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Yes that too, cheers for the suggestions
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Yes have been looking into those, i think they would be ideal
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I did too when driving it, sounded like it came from the front not back, so i stopped and checked wheels, but must not have checked properly haha
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VK304’s sr20det 88 vanette
in Projects and Build Ups
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