Vk304

The back

Since front was painted as all shiny and straight, it really turned the bumper into an eyesore, dented in many places, surface rusty weathered, and pushed in badly, same deal for the rear bumper, being made of steel, and it was a nice day out i had a crack at a quick and dirty beat it out and bog it job.. Painted it with some quality paint, i think they came out surprisingly well... also opened up some airflow by moving number plate, left the old camper lpg thing in Aaand did a light coat over the indicators, tail lights, to make them less bright and colorful.

Got some window seals from amayama, took about 2-3 weeks to get here but soo nice to replace a missing one and one rusty one, and had to throw in a turbo sticker off a vanette model lol

Looking better, has taken the rake at the back out, and love the twin sliders, now start sorting out the track bars....

Made some 2 inch blocks, with solid bar insert tig welded, and painted white because thats all i have atm With nolathane u bolts

Better than this...

Build a janky wheel polishing/ rim sanding thing while i wait for some suspension and body parts ,made out of donor vans front wheel hub and a bracket with a rubber thing in a drill, works well! Autosol really works best after some high grit wet sandpaper, better than by hand Though tyre off and valve stem out would be ideal but im lazy and cheap, the drill is speed ajustable.. so it dont hurt as much at lower speeds lol

With light from a distance lol

Then did the inside of the boot as it was a bit damaged and uneven paintand the quarter, which came out too light first time so sanded it right back down, mixed some black base with it and it is now okay, paints nice but unfortunately you can see where it meets in the light, but okay from a distance lol The method i came up with was paint primer, sand it right down, especially the edge where it meets paint, then base, x3 and sand between on the edge part, then clear same again, each time overlapping, drying with a heater in between. A lot of work for average result, but didn't have enough paint left for the whole quater, so it is and now its only the engine bay to do looks alright

So i went and painted some more bits, this rear bumper side and under the bonnet, which used to be a mess and different shade of bright red, also these are all the same colour, camera makes it look different in the light

Cheers to @flyingbrick for giving me some arms he doesnt need, now i need to figure out if my track bars need heim joints or just a solid bushing type ...? Would they work fine or should i buy some more heim joints as i only have 2, dont mind the verniers and lighter, took pictures of measurements and thats all i got to put up atm ..

Did a quick test to see if the bad clearcoat would come off, started to sand one then remembered i had paint stripper , this stuff works great, kept it off the powedcoat black, bit of a polish, i think ill refininsh the curbed lips and they will look nice

Oh yea was looking at the wrong picture, yea it probably has, may fix that

How do you mean gaps ? The wheel was loose because i forgot to tighten the nuts , and its all factory parts

V2 with rim edge and lowering block, will probably get plates cut on waterjet, once ive got all the bolts and rod ends, also shrunk pivot plate a little, and has about 25mm clearance to spring, i think this will work, aloong with a solid alli bushing in the front as specified by caltrac

Nice good information thanks, yea i wanted to make sure it will never hit the ground, so with blocks will be just above rim bottom

After a LOT of measuring of the car at rest, a copy of caltrac bracket measurements that someone put online, and limiting factors such as the lowest point on the drums which i was going for, though it could probably be lowered to the edge of the rim ,so will probably lower middle bracket to that.. but this is v1, should help hold the diff and pinion angle in place and allow movement without any kind of binding problems??i came up with something that might work and all angles and lengths can be pulled from

Yea man thatd be great, am still planning on doing that, ive got 2 joints just need 2 more and some bolts and tube i think around 32mm but i have suspension arms i can cut up . . . Lol

Cut bumps because they were obviously bottoming out a lot and ill be lowering it 2 inches so gave it some more room, legal? Dunno-welcome to let me know in discussion

Might have to, definitely aim to see how fast it will go once finished

For $117 i can get all leaf spring and shackle bushings from nolathane direct- delivered , not bad! Next pay ill get them

I have 2 joints i could use for caltrac, maybe some more in town, obviously no company makes them for a 1988 nissan vanette, so id make a setupthis guys confirming my pcd to make sure no more wheels wanna fall of lolnot too flash in the bushing department either, might have to turn some nolathane ones at some point ??

Yes that too, cheers for the suggestions

Yes have been looking into those, i think they would be ideal

I did too when driving it, sounded like it came from the front not back, so i stopped and checked wheels, but must not have checked properly haha