Vk304

Id need to find someone to help load it, ive been on pcm hacking and all the lingo and ecu programming just confuse me lol, This chip is on a vs long type holder as opposed to a vt short type (as used in roller cams), i had the original chip made to delete factory security and run my vk setup, but now have a cam so need to find one to suit. I cannot swap it out for a stock vt ecu as its a vt roller block with a vs ute ecu that runs on MAP/multi point injection as opposed to vt MAF/AFM/seq injection/knock sensed/different wiring. Ultimately the solution would be to run a roller cam tune in vs memcal like the one ive got.. but mace is a bit slow in replying if thats possible.

Do you know any other options for memcals ?

Anywho doing more sanding, welded up a bunch of small holes to prevent moisture seeping in behind filler, some rough filling, will mostly get sanded out .

Apparently my vs v8 memcals different to the factory roller v8 one so they cant provide one?

More sanding and rust converted surface

While im here Still waiting on mace Australia so send me the right memcal... ive got everything else to put it together, gaskets etc.

In with the new, molybdenum grease on the gears to help them run in properly, just oil on the cam as its a roller... its worth mentioning, this is the first time ive done a cam so yea just winging it with google and instructions that came with the chain kit...The no1 piston is at top dead centre and the dots on the timing gears are aligned with the gold links on the new chain, its a hell of a lot tighter than the old one, im sure itll slacken a little as it wears in... Bottom sprocket is on the 0 timing mark on the keyway, i will dial it in soon to check the cam timing is accurate, it should be ground straight up and down but doesnt hurt to check after all this work.

some say you can block the cam chain oiler off as its not needed, ive restricted it but it will still oil a little bit, my theory is its there for a reason, but this may help with oil pressure the block slightly more? out with the old

Good to know, itll get it driving at least, tuning and electronics is not my strong point so yea definitely will have to look at a wideband to monitor it, when funds allow. .

Yea its their next generation products i guess, i believe its a crow cam just rebranded? I brought it as it was cheapish and had all the parts, they sent me the wrong memcal tho so gotta wait for that now haha. Probably not a massive power increase but should sound mint ay

Awesome man, i was thinking of getting one of them true trac style/mace torque lock 28 spline centers for mine. Whats your power goal?

What diff you running in this?

When i say i took a lot out i mean a lot haha... not in the head but intake probably 10mm out of the bend, a little too much here woops, its covered and not visible though so no worries really.

Just wrote a whole story and hit 'c' on accident grr, anyways i started today on the intake and slight head porting/matching/opening up passages, only very slightly smoothed out the passage in the head.Took a lot out of the bend areas so it has a straighter shot at the valves, also opened up the intake plenum ports a lot as they narrow up just before the head and are significantly smaller than head ports...Cleaned up hydraulic roller lifters, soaked in petrol for several hours, they seem in good condition so dont feel the need to replace. Comparison of holden 5l hydraulic lifters vs hydraulic roller lifters-Cleaned out by removing retaining clip, blowing compressed air into lifter untill bore pops out, can take a bit of back and forth...Bit of gunk in them, cleaned out and put fresh oil in them before re-assmbly to have them pump up as soon as engine starts again, also blew out roller needle bearings and put fresh oil on them..Kept them in order to have them go back in their respective bores, this is is just maintenance and checking for wear really, but she passed qc and now onto the cam chain and cam ...

Passenger springs, hardened locks installed without a hitch, all pushrods look straight and true, no funny signs of wear on the valvetrain and none of the valves leaked air through the intake when i was installing springs which is good Intake off to remove hydraulic lifters which ill give a clean when i research on what the best method is, and gaskets will now be added on things to buy ..... Probably do a little porting on the intake and throttle body areas now its out too...

Made a little valve spring compressor thing to compress them out of some 5mm steel, have managed to do one bank today, definitely more pressure on the valves now, used air to hold valves up while swapping them out, tedious but not a hard job. . .

All the parts now the work...

Well after a bit of troubles at home ive picked myself up and started stripping the engine bay for a paint, and got a cam, just buying the cam chain set soon and ill teach myself to dial it in. Cant bring myself to pull the whole motor so may be a slightly awkward paint job but we will see

Made some little panels to bring lip closer to door profile, will need to make final versions, and weld them on when i have time... They also hide the welded mounting nuts that attach the bumper and one of the welds that joined the extension i made to the hilux lip to fit the van, less sanding when i go to paint the thing satin

Better than what it was, i think ill stick with black, just looks a bit odd looking at it front door side, its all welded up now just gotta fill in top grill piece where it was cut for a camping gas fitting, im leaving the fitting but just completing grille up to it like in one of the photos...

Lowered front. I think it looks better. Cut up a hilux lower lip had to take 150mm out of it. Could even add a mild splitter to it... should it be black, or white like body, im not sure ... maybe let me know?

Tidy-er made a shield over the radiator which'll help with cooling as well not that it ever overheats, oil and filter change, happy with the result, the rest still looks like a standard van, what i was going for...

Wheels are black now too