mk2panelvan

Cheers @tortron! Sanding primer/bog/top coat - any brand suggestions?

Hey all,

I decided I wanted to repaint my mk2 escort panelvan a few years ago.

So I stripped it back to bare metal, bought an air compressor and sprayed it with etch primer from Supercheap Auto.

Most of it is etch primered now, and I have put a few layers of primer on one side, that I also got from Supercheap Auto.

There is now surface rust on most of the vehicle, so I'm going to have to strip it back again - which I think is good as someone told me that I should never use paint from Supercheap/Repco and to buy some two-part epoxy primer and use that in place of the etch primer. After that to bog any holes, and then put a couple of coats of primer, then the final coat (which I would prefer a professional to do).

My questions are:

1. What is the best/quickest way to get the rusted primer layers off? (I used a sanding wheel on a grinder the first time round as there were many layers of old paint).

2. Can anyone recommend a brand of two-part epoxy to use? And bog? I'm based in Napier, Hawke's Bay.

3. If all else fails, does anyone know of someone who specialises in this kind of thing in Hawke's Bay? I contacted a local company who were going to quote to get the job done but they never showed up.

Any help would be much appreciated - I'm very keen to get my panelvan on the road again!!

Thank you

Sweet will give that a go. Thanks @kyteler for taking the time to explain!!

On 6/9/2017 at 20:09, kyteler said:

If you can turn it 360deg with relative ease then ensure the coil is UNPLUGGED and spin it over with the starter.

Sweet, will give this a go - can you explain how to do this in more detail though please? Do you still put the battery back in and turn the ignition key from the drivers seat?

Update - the engine is turning over using the crankshaft bolt. I've been putting 50mls of ATF/Acetone mix in about once/twice a week for the last few weeks. When I turn it over it still feels pretty tight, although there is a less tighter spot every now and then. How do I know if it is going to loosen up more? Or should I just go ahead and change the oil/filter now and try start her now?

On 5/21/2017 at 18:41, Fliboi said:

yup what kyteler said, although ill add, its my understanding that the acetone is essensial, as this is what things the oil (the oil is what will free it up) enough to get down into the rusty rings and then evaporates off. 

as ky said, dont wail on the crank bolt, youll end up stripping the thread and thats not fun, just give it a good go with a whole lot of patience, it should come free. it took me around a week. 

theirs no exact amount to put down the bores. i just kept it topped up enough that i could see it was above the crown of the piston as in my mind this meant itll be slowly draining though. im not sure why it had to be ATF. MTF may work, but cheep nasty ATF is only like 10 bucks a bottle so i never really thought about it, 

Can move the engine now using the crankshaft bolt, but its still mostly pretty tight - should I keep putting AFT/Acetone down there until it frees up more? I used to be able to move it round just using the fan.

Cool, will do, thank you!

2 minutes ago, kyteler said:

OK, sweet.  As assumed.

Crank is in the centre, the big pulley below the fan, a belt should run from the pulley on the crank to the fan pulley.  The crank pulley should have a nut on it that you can fit a socket on and then wiggle gently.  Keep in mind.  Gently.  Don't wail on the thing just try ease it around a little at a time after you've let penetrating oil/atf soak into the bores a while.

Ok - thanks heaps for that.

Do you know what kind of oil I should buy? What is the difference between Manual Transmission Oil and Auto Transmission fluid - can I use either? And do you know how much to put down each hole? I've sprayed a bit of CRC down there for the moment...

5 minutes ago, kyteler said:

Can you clarify exactly what car you have?  If your crank is down by the wheel you miiiiiiiiight not have the Escort MkII Panelvan that I initially assumed and perhaps you've got some FWD thingamebob.

Its a 1981 Mk2 Ford Escort Panelvan. But I got the engine swapped from the original 1300 to a 1600 sport.

On 5/16/2017 at 19:31, Fliboi said:

as was mentioned but kinda glossed over 

 

50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. the acetone things out the atf and lets it get in all the gaps before evaporating off and leaving the oil behind, 

used this method over a few days on my frozen up 18rgeu. freed up real nice and now runs mint with great compression. used a breaker bar to unstick it. the starter motor will burn out if you crank it but the motor cant turn. also with the bar you can feel how the engine feels as you slowly rotate it. 

Got the spark plugs out. How much of the acetone/ATF mix do I put down each hole? I'm going to change the oil after doing that, then use breaker bar on crank. Is the crank down the right hand side by the wheel?

On 5/14/2017 at 07:20, rustisize said:

Tablespoon of acetone, tablespoon of ATF and a tea spoon of diesel is better than WD40.  If you have doubts about the oil level, or the oil level has gone up, can you drop the sump in the car?  From memory you can't in a MK1 idk about MKII though.

 

Yep oil level has gone up. Spark plugs are on pretty tight, haven't managed to get them off yet, been spraying crc around them. Any tips to get these off? Also can't rotate the fan at all. 

Its been sitting about 6 years, but I regularly started it to stop it from seizing. Haven't started it in the last year though, got slack! It's been sitting in the garage all of that time though.

Choice, thank you. Will let you know how I go

Will try that ajg193 - thank you! Is WD40 OK?

Went to start up my Mk2 Panelvan, left it too long... engine has siezed. Any tips to unseize it (preferably without taking the engine out of the car)?