doullama

Its really variable, the VTNZ at putaruru said no, has to be complied etc then gave me a plate with bike unseen when I returned with the relevant info printed out

15 hours ago, HighLUX said:

Looks perfect for east cape ride.

Plz register your interest 

It would be such a good mish, reckon it would need 70cc & variator

I'd better spam this Honda sky 2t 50 up, just took it to the supermarket. Got it off @The Dude a while ago, custom mods are a piece of random canvas on the seat, drilled out the exhaust washer (had never had a scoot with that before) and rejet (and of course sick mini poddy that happened to fit in the inlet of stock aircleaner for lols) makes it much more ringa ding-dingy, screams along at 34mph now. Need a crate to carry the dog down to the park haha. Its a big wheel which is handy for mx action etc. The body is translucent which is weird, can see mud in the guards etc. Headlight blows every time revs come up - the regulator has been replaced before and they're expensive - wierd UK model.  I'll wire it and its also exploding taillamp to the battery - holds good voltage 

Have painted the floor & boot of this thing - in suprisingly good condition. Went for a burn around the neighborhood - went very hard for what it is and is quite fun to drive. Makes me wonder what is lurking under the rusty rocker cover - decidedly quicker than an alpine I drove a couple of years ago, and sounds vicious for a shit british 4cyl at idle. Found it was getting a bit too warm - thermostat was jammed, don't know why I have such awful luck with them (actually I do, cars don't get run enough) - binned that and let it idle for half an hour, the next run around the block it ran like a pack of bsa's - the rear two spark plugs are fouling terribly due to overfueling at idle and don't clear easily. Investigating the strombergs it seems something is awry with the rear carb - even with the mixture screw up tight it is still far too rich - a little black smoke etc. Ancient fuel in the tank probably doesn't help. Needle looks a little pitted so will remove carb from car for further investigation. I tend to avoid taking carbs apart but the strombergs seem simple enough to be worth a tutu, may as well learn how to centre the jet, check the diaphragm & float, lose tiny parts & ragequit etc. Did consider changing to a mysterious but clean single carb from parts-heap but the accelerator setup has been modified for the twins so a bit hard to justify at this stage. If it behaves itself the car may just get its first oil change in two decades.

Other things to do - replace leaking heater bypass hose, new fan belt & swap some perishing fuel lines + filter. Maybe rig up a pcv rather than road tube

I found these gems in a pile of parts, are covered spotlights ok for the road? Obviously the vehicle wont be driven at night. What are the odds of them working I wonder

Mine was probably my near mint v6 sunbird, swapped it for a pos ld28 bedford van. It ended up being crashed, saw its corpse on trademe. Would love another or a torana but even rusty 4cyl examples are rather spendy. Following that would be 23' T-bucket, NZ's least rustiest 76' v6 bedford and my 80' oldsmobile.

This thread is great, such fond memories of the computer my grandparents bought for us kids in 1992 -  IBM 486 33mhz, 4mb ram, 128mb hdd, soundblaster, win 3.1, dot matrix printer, a single speed CD ROM drive that you had to put the disk in a caddy, then into the PC. Cost $7600, and more importantly ran wing commander II. Still have a dot matrix printer at work, its screaming always hits me in the feels. The (second hand) cyrix 266mhz that replaced it sometime in the 2000's seemed like such a huge jump forward in technology 

I've got a series 1 forte wagon, the price you pay for that glorious whale baleen grille is that only the early (series 1) cars have it - hence 6 month wofs. I got mine because A: they're hilarious B: practically free C: cavernous load space (much like many forum members mothers) + column auto & bench is great. My advice would be to ignore km's, just look for a well looked after car with no paint fade etc. They rust quite badly, in a sedan look around the boot aperture, wagons above the rear side windows, bottom of sills & guards in all. Better to get a leaf-sprung forte or ute as the irs bushes (of which there are many) in the higher spec cars are generally now due for replacement, not worth the hassle in such a cheap car.

UC sunbird/toranas need them to stop the bonnet cracking around the latch, i'm not a fan of the aesthetic but it beats random bonnet attacks

Was just browsing the tard and found what the fate of my old 3.8 Sunbird entailed, Rust in peace 

I wanna know more about these Lifepo4's now, unlikely to get one as free batteries are hard to beat but they sound pretty interesting - surviving long periods of disuse would be a big plus

I'd second what bling said, lap joins are inferior by nature so if you use them, use weld-thru primer and seam sealer to exclude air/water and thereby delay the rusting process. They are much quicker/easier than butting in though. 

also you need a larger battery for boot mounting to overcome the resistance of 5m long leads. Id just get a good quality battery that makes the most use of the available space, don't forget height too. CCA can be a bit misleading, it is unlikely that you'll need to wind the car over for 30 seconds in subzero temps after all. I've used tiny jap car batteries which would be lucky to have 200cca to start ancient v8's, they'll generally wind over fine - just not for very long. With a modern injected engine (or a well tuned carburetted engine) with a modern efficient starter & electronic ignition this won't be an issue. 

$1927 seems like a bad number for a battery. What are the dimensions of the battery space available? I moved the radiator of my marina over 30mm to accommodate a 600cca battery, simply due to the fact I have a supply of free 3 year old 600cca batteries. Could always relocate to boot but that should be your last option. If your car has less accessories than the donor you can most likely get away with a smaller battery also.

Looking at u.s conversion vans: I see as part of entry cert they must now (from '16) be lvv certified due to the removal of bracing when installing side windows, fibreglass roof, dodgy seats & seatbelt mounts etc. Does this also apply to the many vans that are already on the road? These two are my current candidates, dodge is already lvv certed (and has 318) and ford is a heavy vehicle therefore exempt (and has 460 + uncle Rico vibe) both 14k with no bites for a while/ripe 4 beatdownz. Was just wondering as if so there must be hundreds of vans due for some wicked spendy work

That's a good size rat! We had rat problems when we moved in but a combo of cat, fine mesh wire, tree removal & rat-wafflemaker sorted that out, I avoid poison as our beagle would chew thru steel beams for tasty snacks 

This too will apparently do 80kmph/50mph , I can only assume this is downhill

2 hours ago, tortron said:

"Portable" roadblock

I drove it around the block, superpoise would have lapped it I reckon

Cheers, Rang the elderly polish gent as soon as I saw it! pretty good nick aside from the shunt to the right rear, service history back to 88' too. might spring for a session on a car-o-liner for it cause it'll annoy me otherwise

2 hours ago, DoBro Jesus said:

Just throw em on, mine were sweet with full factory everything. Also I haven’t owned this car for over a year, my workmate has it now, will be up for sells soon!

Choice man, will post tractor-spec pic when done. Would totally have that one too if it was in N.I!

@DoBro Jesus Have finally obtained 4wd mirage of dreams (really wanted your one but shipping was going to cost more than several mk2 mirages) - how do I go about fitting 27" muds to it? Has the factory skinny 14" rimz at present. Chur

7k from a townace - made from 83-07', easy to carburate if that's your style etc. Would love to obtain one myself as a sly upgrade from 4k. Around 80hp of ohv fury