shizzl

alot of diesel turbs 4x4 have small ones like that inside the front bumpers...

yup,usually held on by 2 bolts,and the clutch hose.. loosen off the hose first,then unbolt the slave off the box,disconnect the slave from the hose(impossible usually to undo the hose if you didnt loosen it off while its on the box)...fit new one in reverse order. bleed it up....nad hope like hell its all g

usually next to the brake master cyl brake master has the big round booster on it, the clutch master doesnt...just follow the line from the slave cyl..

dot 4 is all g for it... 60 aint that bad tbh... but try bnt, theyr usually cheaper...maybe cos i got cost price there

this must be viewed..hahaha got lift??? still has the ifs too.. i just LOLd in my pants

dig in a big muddy hole and have a hillbilly bath in ya trucks

had a play with the truck after work. took me 5mins to wind it up 25mm...its got 10mm left till it hits the max lift bump stops.. no point going higher without better shocks and ball joint flip.. the tyres measure up at 28"s, so if i went with 31"s id get another 37mm or so in lift, 62mm lift is ok... plus the ground clearance isnt too bad either....\/ before 31"s.... oh the rear is standard as....stoked its leaf over axle too and heres something id like to do to it, but i think the ecu wont take it, might lean out....unless theres a way of making it richer.. who wants to make me a manifold and sump drain???

yeah,but you cant be positive all of the air is out...id recommend a helper if your doing it for your first attempt

brake and clutch fluid....basically just called brake fluid... primeras dont have hydraulic clutch.....theres one lol youll need a 2nd person to help. crack the bleed nipple open on the clutch slave,put a clear hose on it like windscreen washer hose/vaccuum hose etc, unless you have a bleeder bottle ;P get ya mate to slowly pump the clutch 3/4 of the way to the floor,pump it a few times to get the fluid moving through it, get them to hold the pedal down,tighten the nipple up,get them to pump it to get some pressure in it, hold it down and undo the nipple to release the fluid, tighten it up.. keep doing this untill you cant see any air bubbles running down the in the hose.. NOTE: pump slowly, cos if theres air in the master, pumping it hard will just airate the good fluid... usually only a 2-5min job... enjoy

WIN!!

is that only susp lifted? are you about to do the body lift? 1k's go good...

$16 for 500mm of plastic stuff with lots of letters?? did you get it locally? so you rate the surf well??

thought about a landy ae...harder to get bits for when you break them.. just like driving a tractor....

cheers for the info there bro... always go to find these things out before i get something that could be a snail...

id doubt the body would just fly off,more like youll get a chest full of steering wheel action... but shit yeah id pay to see that for sure.. so jz is good, m is not so good...cheers is 40mm wide enough for the blocks? i wouldve thought around 50mm...hmm might go measure the stock rubbers to see what the dia is..

a guy i know has a surf with a supra motor in it, hes been after a stockcar for ages.. do you guys reckon a surfra would be sweet??? ive never driven a supra so no idea what they go like, id say it'd be N/A.. oh also for bodylifts make sure you get the strongest mofo bolts you can get...id hate to hit the brakes hard out and have the body come away from the chassis if the bolts shear off... let us know how much that polythene costs

from what ive been told the 3.1 motors have really shitty sleeves,and no4 sleeve gets too hot and warps,locking the motor up. not too good, probably from over fueling/boosting.. weve had 2 MUs and a old school surf....the MUs actually ruled as far as engines go,keep em serviced.. the surf had wicked blow by, it was a 2lt...went ok to be honest the best 4wd ive had at climbing the same slippery h ill was a J80 econovan...it was awesome, had rally tyres on it, it would go almost anywhere

start at the clutch master, look for any fluid running down the firewall,both inside and out.. most likely the slave cyl has had it, youll see a drip or 2 on the rubber boot,give it a squeeze,youll probably feel fluid inside. piston/diaphragm/seal would be shot,and bore needs honing.. usually cheaper to get a new one from BNT...

good point.... not too sure what the control arm clearance to the ground would be like with 33s on it shouldnt be too bad though..would think it would only be an inch or so difference between ifs and beam.. the swivel ball set up is quite bulky and add the springs underneath too.. both have pros and cons i guess

theyr ifs...same as a mu pretty much..

been offered a bighorn thats been lifted on 33s... should be ideal offroad yeah?? its the early shape,around 88-92 or something i guess.. heres a pic anyway Uploaded with ImageShack.us

anyone used rislone products before??? http://smitsgroup.co.nz/p4719v0/Rislone ... oke-Repair have been told on a nissan diesel site( yup its as boring as it sounds, nah theres a ld28t unimog on there) to use rislone ring seal treatment to help stop the blow by... seems cheap enough....but is it just a bottle of empty hope?? the van doesnt burn any oil/water etc,fuel i have no idea cos the guage doesnt work... just blows from the rocker breather,would be good to get it running super lush, then new wof,reg some rucs and cruise it thoughts?

tap the bung with a hammer before you try to undo it....works every time.... except for some gay euro ones.....

i only said clutch cos he mentioned it wasnt good but not slipping... change oil for some shockproof labeled sht.. stockcar guys use redline in noisey boxes,they seem to handle epic amounts of abuse

yeah chack the oil in the box it could be old or low...bleed the clutch aswell perhaps?