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Posts posted by shizzl
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He’s always there circulating, good on the corners, lacks a bit of top end, sounds and looks awesome though
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Took the Hunter away for the garlic farm budget Nats ..
had brake issues the morning I left, and throughout the weekend, but managed through it cos Slow car..
I knew what it was, the little valley type thing inside the remote booster/slave vh44 deal threw a shit fit and decided to stay put and no longer do brake things.
i already had a new unit on the bench, but procrastination took hold and I never did swap it until today.
im taking her to Waiau Pa hop next weekend, so keen to have brakes.
fairly easy deal to swap it.
and it brakes now, and releases..
winning
while I had the brake mojo and the flaring tool, I decided to run the brake lines on the trailer. What a Kent, but it’s done and it has brakes and no leaks.
ive left the brakes locked on overnight to check for any leakage. Should be good.
also clamped the conduit up.
so only have the 4 mudguard stays to weld on, then screw the boards on before getting it registered.
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Anyone else planning to attend the Waiau Pa Hop on the 7th April?
held at the Clark’s Beach yatch club at the end of Torkar rd.
register before midnight to have a entry sticker mailed out.
entries close on the 6th April but must print out an entry number if entered after midnight tonight (27th March).
approx 200 cars entered last year.
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9 minutes ago, Bling said:
While painful to weld upside down, inside a boot, I never had any issues with plain wire + gas. I wouldn't do that with flux wire unless I was going to drink a lot of milk afterwards.
Respirator helmet for the win.
i use one for alloy welding now, probably 10 years too late for my lungs.
mainly got it for cool air flow during summer.its nice to go home and not feel like shit.
galvanic poisoning is worse than being kicked in the nads
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13 minutes ago, westy said:
Rotaries sit higher because the eccentric shaft is close to centre of the drum. Crankshaft’s sit in the bottom of the engine.
Boys have a penis, girls have a vagina……….. back in my day
so as I left it today, the engine slope is 5 degrees, the first shaft matches this , the second uj and pinion angle also match.
im sure it works as most lifted 4x4s have a steep driveshaft angle aswell.
it would be nice to level out the engine, however to do that, I’d need to lift the hanger bearing and completely remove the tunnel right to the back of the cab, and lift the hanger crossmember.
bit of a major but all doable.my first ute I just slapped it in and she was sweet with no vibration at all
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2 minutes ago, igor said:
Please pardon my ignorance of all things rotary but why are they configured like that? Is there any reason for the inlets not being at right angles to the rotational axis of the rotors?
Maybe to accommodate from the massive Gs on mega torque clutch dumps and wheel stands? Haha
yeah right.
not sure, but by my retarded thinking, if the engine is flattened off and the carbs leans forward 5-6 degrees then the rear rotor may be more likely to lean out and heat up. Which is what kills most 12a’s - dead rear rotors.
going to injection would fix that, until it dies eventually anyway (I am yet to have one die).
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I tried relocating the engine and box a bit.
this crossmember is from the other ute that the previous owner mounted.
so I dropped the front crossmember 25mm, and raised the box 25mm.
now the out put shaft/engine is at 5.2 down, first shaft is 5.4 down, second shaft is 11.2 up if the rear pinion is at 5.2 to match the hanger uj.
is that ballpark correct now?this pulls the carb 2 degrees forward
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Just now, fletch said:
Looks like raising the hanger bearing would be pretty easy.
How much more penetration do you need into the box? Can you make a 30-50mm spacer with a male and female spigot to go into the front of the diff flange to space the shaft forward? If you do it at the same time as the hanger move it will look 'stock' too
Yup I could do a spacer for the rear.
it will be about 40mm at most by the time I raise the hanger, this will push the shaft in a little more at the same time.
that entire hanger crossbeam can disappear in favour of a new one.
luckily this sits in behind the cab too
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That’s only ride height, or just lower than ride height (90mm clearance).
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Lots, I can’t remember, I left the tech drawing pie wrapper on the workbench in the shop
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Yeah I’ve got the pinion angle at 3 degrees, which matches what the uj is at the hanger bearing, front is around 7 or so
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Any of you good folk know of an app or whatever that can calculate the correct driveline angles for a 2 piece driveshaft?
I need to sort out if the hanger bearing needs relocating and pinion angle.
engine sits around 6.5 degrees to sit the carb level.
i can’t find any info on standard rx7 driveline angles to start with.
from there the first driveshaft is on a 3 degree down slope, then the second hauls arse upwards to ride height.
my thinking is the hanger needs lifting up. But lack of good online info has me baffled. Most only go into a single piece set up which is piss easy
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If you have a booster on the brakes, disconnect it , plug the hoses and test it.
ive had issues with mine dragging, locking on , then pedal goes to the floor. No leaks.
I’ve pin pointed it to a valve inside the remote slave jobby.
on the list to go in the bin. Just need a flare tool to fit the new unit.
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35 minutes ago, 87creepin said:
So you’re telling me anyone who is half capable and can drill concrete, bolt it in, will be able to install a hoist and it’ll be safe? Mean
Pretty much. I installed mine. Nothing has failed yet
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Comparison is like a curry shit vs kfc shit.
both greasy af, one way sloppier than the other.
Terran is a better unit, just check the control arm bushes, they get well rooted , v6 surfs are just NO!!
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I get that every time with the hunter. If they don’t know or can’t find the manufacturers specs for play etc, then they request that you find this info and return.
i took a workshop manual with me last time to show steering box play etc.
theyr just covering their ass
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SHIZZLs Super Hunter
in Projects and Build Ups
Posted
Thought I’d have a go at showing off the shiny cam gears. Added clear plastic cambelt cover.
nice, then cover it up with the silly intake pipe. Hmm, must rethink the filter set up