dmulally

On 10/10/2022 at 09:34, Adoom said:

I've been using mineral turpentine to remove spray on underseal and old contact adhesive. It's the most effective and cheap solvent I have found that does the job, doesn't evaporate super fast but when it does evaporate, it doesn't seem to leave a residue.

Can I paint epotec 408 where I have cleaned up with the turpentine? Or do I need to also use a wax a grease remover?

I use epotec over everything. In saying that I tack with grease and wax remover as a rule anyway. 

21 hours ago, Jusepy82 said:

Hello again ,

sorry bout all the questions buttttttt, what type/size of pannel steel should I be buying for a ford escort to start doing repairs .

Ive hooked up my rig and am practicing my welding and need to start looking for metal to melt into the  ol girl....

Thanks in advance.

Have a look on your local marketplace for some crappy old snotter to get a panel off with a grinder. Should be reasonably cheap and small enough to use and chuck out. Otherwise if you get a sheet of 1mm you'll be tripping over it for years. 

Does anybody know if changing from a fleetside normal ute deck to a flatdeck tipping bed need to be run through LVV? 

Ahh I see what you mean. That is a pain. 

Perhaps near the diff?

My trick for lowered cars is to set the front number plate at the same height as the sump or whatever. Then if you hear that scratch find another supermarket with less annoying speed bumps!

I'm sure you have looked at this option but with some ducting perhaps the below would be an option. 

https://www.southernrods.com/a-c-and-heat-components/remote-condenser-fan-combo.html

I'd possibly put horizontal under the radiator mounted with a small scoop. Or perhaps off to a side. 

Ahhh I see what you're saying. I thought you were talking about overcooling. My bad!

What you're saying makes sense. 

18 hours ago, kws said:

Just picking up on something you mentioned; can't running a thermo fan constantly cause issues with cooling when moving as it disrupts airflow through the core?

Wouldn't it be the same as starting the car and immediately driving down the freeway with the airflow? The thermostat should block it from flowing until up to temp anyway. 

I have my thermo fan on a switch for my chev but unless on a winter morning and I remember I leave it on. I'm not sure banana benders get winters however. Putting on the shroud I found made the biggest difference for my overheating dramas and in the end was the engine itself. 

Right then. Getting myself emotionally prepared for the conversion to dual fuel. Trying to find any information on diagrams online is a little tricky. Mostly because of the idiot behind the keyboard. 

Can anybody steer me right with a diagram so I know what to hunt for? From memory it went tank - regulator - mixer - carb. I do recall needing about 1km of open highway to switch from petrol to LPG. I sure hope technology has improved since those heady days. 

On 29/06/2022 at 12:05, dmulally said:

Hi All,

Im looking at converting a small block chev to diesel. The only diesels I have played with have been on tractors and that usually consisted of me swearing a lot. 

I have acquired a 4BE1 from an Isuzu elf (I assume) but was pulled from a range rover. 

Before I do anything I want to floor test this engine. Can I get a couple of pointers on how to do this safely please? 

I was going to wedge on wood and hook it up to an engine crane so it doesn't flop over.

Questions: 

1. Is the fuel line going to the front of the injector pump the inlet and the one at the rear the return? Can I just throw them both into a jerry can?

2. Do I need an electronic lift pump in line or if I put the jerry up higher will that be enough?

3. I have no idea how to turn it off. There is a single wire coming off the injector pump. Is that the on/off switch and should I just put 12v to that for "spark"?

4. Why do I do this to myself? I could retire if it weren't for dumb shit projects. 

Thanks in advance! I'll film the first attempt to blow it up if anybody wants. 

 

 

 

 

Right then. Started first kick. Now to find a gearbox for it. 

Right this makes sense. Now to the other questions...

Hi All,

Im looking at converting a small block chev to diesel. The only diesels I have played with have been on tractors and that usually consisted of me swearing a lot. 

I have acquired a 4BE1 from an Isuzu elf (I assume) but was pulled from a range rover. 

Before I do anything I want to floor test this engine. Can I get a couple of pointers on how to do this safely please? 

I was going to wedge on wood and hook it up to an engine crane so it doesn't flop over.

Questions: 

1. Is the fuel line going to the front of the injector pump the inlet and the one at the rear the return? Can I just throw them both into a jerry can?

2. Do I need an electronic lift pump in line or if I put the jerry up higher will that be enough?

3. I have no idea how to turn it off. There is a single wire coming off the injector pump. Is that the on/off switch and should I just put 12v to that for "spark"?

4. Why do I do this to myself? I could retire if it weren't for dumb shit projects. 

Thanks in advance! I'll film the first attempt to blow it up if anybody wants. 

Not a big deal but I recall when doing mine for LVV the certifier wanted a copy of the invoice which I had no dramas with. 

You can take them into Autolign in Parmy and they'll send them off. Otherwise dealing directly with Archers for coils or leaf springs is the way to go. 

I just did a chev swap on my C20. A 283 for a 350. If you want any detailed measurements in mm just sing out. 

46 minutes ago, Stu said:

These could be an option? https://dcpower.co.nz/product/batteries/starting/vision-hp12-116w/

Ive got one in my 86 is it cranks it over pretty quick!

I need a new battery for my 4agze. That price looks pretty good. 

Any dramas with voltage drop if left for a while? 

I spent a year looking for one of those engines and one walked into your lap! Very jealous! 

1 hour ago, cletus said:

There isn't anything I can find about 4 link brackets, only that part you mentioned about 5mm on a shock mount but that is for a specific way of mounting

 

It's probably like engine mounts, there isn't a spec for what it should be because the design and application is just as important as the material spec 

 

As a rule of thumb though, I'd suggest 3-5mm would be OK for 99% of cert stuff

Ta. I ended up getting in contact with the certifier and he said pretty much what you did. Being a lightweight 4 cylinder it isn't a problem. 

36 minutes ago, zep said:

The old cert does not have any pictures, although Clint knows I'm asking this question

I just don't want to end up in a situation where I have to rebuild the main hoop because adding the gussets effectively means the cage is no longer the same as how it was when originally certed.  If that makes sense.

Have you got more stuff to cert anyway? I'd tick it off then. 

If not borrow some of @yoeddynz hello kitty plush toys and cable tie them to the gussets. 

14 hours ago, zep said:

My current understanding that my because my car is currently certed for its half cage with the old diameter main hoop, I can keep it through the recert for all the other changes I am making to the car (brakes, engine, suspensions, etc.). Is this correct? And can I add some central gussets to the cage without having to recert it?

I took my Chev C20 through LVV a year or so ago and things are a little different to when I took my commer through a few years ago. Instead of a plate they have a scanning tag and when they put that into the LVV system it brings up a whole stack of pictures of the build. 

So the Commer I'm able to do minor mods to (which is what I'd consider gussets to be) but the Chev would be a little too hard. I was going to swap my 700r4 for a 4l80e gearbox but it will be noticable should anybody log in and check closely. As like all these things, it depends on the mood of your WOF guy. 

If you've got more things to Cert I'd just do what you need to do beforehand so it is included in the pics. 

4 hours ago, cletus said:

I'll double check on Tuesday when I've got the book in front of me but I'm 99% sure there isn't a minimum size for link brackets

 

 

Ta. I can only find specs for shock mounts which is the 5mm. 

I am rebuilding my suspension arms as an aside. They need to be by tig as they were previously mig welded. There are a couple of corners I cant get to with the tig beneath it so I hope the certifier isnt too precious about a few mig welds on them. 

I feel like a real idiot for posting this but I simply cannot find it in the Hobby Car Manual. 

I am trying to find out the thickness for diff brackets (not the chassis end) for a 5 link rear end (Lotus 7 style). I have 3mm as that's the size of what the Skyline the diff is off originally had. 

But I can't recall where but I do remember hearing or seeing something about them needing to be 5mm thick.

I have scoured chapter 6 of the manual and it is deliberately hiding from me. Although I can find the part about the shock mounts needing to be 5mm