dmulally

It's much easier to stuff a bike engine in an Imp than a mini and they put them in mini's all the time. 

If I were to do it again and actually keep the back seat, I'd look at a Honda ST1100 or ST1300. V4 and smooth as silk. Front or rear. Which ever it could fit easiest in. 

Or a Daimler 2.5 V8. Whatevs. 

35 minutes ago, tortron said:

Those electric reverse setups will be fine. A full dress Goldwing would easily be twice the weight of an imp

Yeah. Not hard to sandwich a drive sprocket/flywheel between the gearbox and diff coupling and solid mount a starter to the diff snout for reverse. 

The project is practically building itself. 

For a goldwing imp I would mount the engine in the rear and providing there was space I would mount a commodore IRS diff to the output shaft of the goldwing gearbox. Just flip the diff and change the breather if need be. If not enough space I would mid mount or front mount. 

Then sell me the datsun imp. 

It really is win win. 

I think it would just be a matter of getting a scooter that is driven with the belt or sprocket on the same side. Then mucking around with sprockets to match. The lambretta's are quite pricey but have plenty of space to hide whatever you like back there. 

What sort of scooter are you looking at? 

You're doing a super job on the Imp. 

I take it you're across where you have to weld at the front and on the suspension to stiffen it all up? Super quick and easy mods with a mig which doesn't add any weight. 

I have to get a shit load of parts from the states soon for my new C20. I was going to get them shipped to a mate who will unbox and put the value down to $10. Is that likely to work or will customs come up with their own value? 

I was happy to pay the $80 gst but the rest seems like a bit of a piss take. 

I bought a motorbike towbar from Queensland. Value of it was $528NZD. This is what I was charged in order for it to be released.

GST $79.20

Import Transaction Fee $25.44

GST on Import Transact Fee $3.82

Biosecurity Levy $17.37

GST on Biosecurity Levy $2.61

Westpac Convenience Fee $2.44

Total $130.88NZD

Jokes on them. They forgot to charge GST on the westpac convenience fee. Suckers. 

I've personally had mixed results with them. My old hillman imp had one and I didn't have a single problem with it with years of abuse. 

I put one in my old David Brown tractor and one of the fins started leaking almost immediately. Seeing as it's a tractor I just top it up before every time that I use it but it's still annoying. 

I made a little bucket roadster out of a Standard Flying Ten chassis and a holden Red motor. Cable brakes. It wouldn't stop no matter what I did with the pedal and linkages. 

I would speak to your engineer and ask what they want. 

If it were me I would make it rose jointed and use threaded bungs that are machined to slot into a tube and weld in. Both around the flange and rosette weld through a drilled hole. Fraser cars will supply the bungs and it's up to you to get the rose joint/s. 

That way you can have slight adjustment. But it's pretty easy to use bushed ones and make the bracket adjustable at both ends. 

On 3/1/2018 at 08:42, yoeddynz said:

Tell me more about your Commer. I presume a Commer Imp? Where be the build thread?.............

Commer Van. Probably has less HP than an imp. The engine shat itself on the weekend actually. I'll try and breathe life into it this week but I think it may be time to put the rapier donk in there. 

I honestly cannot remember. Fucking photobucket. 

I currently have to fabricate a bike carb manifold for my commer but after that if you want to get tricky give me a yell. Anything that pisses off the donuts or even the imp transaxle is a winner. 

Blimey it was so long ago. I honestly cannot remember. I bought it as an unfinished project so I don't know if they changed it at the wheel side. They looked exactly like the pic above though. 

I have no idea about the side but it wouldn't be hard to cut and shut. They were sliding so as long as it was narrow enough you could slide them out to suit. 

Pretty sure I took them to the tip. 

On 2/25/2018 at 07:17, yoeddynz said:

Please tell me more about these datsun half shafts. Details please. What car, adapted how etc etc

Oh.. And the R1 Imp

They were the ones that mounted to the R160 diff iirc and they had the adapters welded onto to imp side brackets that usually held the donuts. It took the donuts out of the equasion and were trouble free. It looked like the attached although that file says R200. Dunno the differences. 

As for the R1 it lasted about 20 minutes but it was a fun 20 minutes. I made a plate to enclose the transaxle and used a bearing to support the input shaft. I mated that to the bike sprocket and off I went. If doing it again I would use a commodore diff and starter motor reverse on a custom sprocket or on a disc rotor. I had to cut the parcel shelf iirc. I had pics on photobucket but we all know what happened to that. 

If I had my Imp time again I would use an A12 or EA18 mated to a VW gearbox. The gearbox is terrible. I used to carry a spare one on the parcel shelf as it was just easier that way. 

12 hours ago, Jusepy82 said:

Thanks , I see a lot of sense in this advice.

If you're near Levin you're welcome to pop around and give me a hand. I have a couple of cars that I need to touch up shortly. 

I have used two of those alloy radiator jobbies. One in my hillman imp lasted years and the othe one in a V8 chev power commer van lasted about an hour before developing a leak. Flip a coin! 

This is my old Alfa that I wasn't happy with the paint job I did on. I resprayed it maybe a month or two after the first one. I got too many runs and just wasn't happy with it. 

I just blocked it back and hit it with two coats of 2k in a day. One light coat and one wet coat. Didn't buff. 

Up close I'm sure it was shit but for $100 or so I wasn't bothered. 

https://imgur.com/a/CRkBT

I sprayed my 283 with 2k paint that I had laying around and it held up well after a few years. 

I feel the trade off in quality is clawed back with a sense of satisfaction at spraying the car yourself. It's not too hard as long as you take your time in all of the stages. Just needs a lot of patience and like all things, practice. 

I've been burnt by professionals before in time, cost and quality. So doing it myself I have nobody to blame but the monkey looking into the nozzle to see why it isn't blowing paint. 

I take it you know Frank (Bodgy) from Queensland? 

I threw out so many parts including the thicker axles when I left oz. My R1 Imp used datsun half shafts as the rubber donuts were not up to it. 

Always wanted an A12 Imp with a VW box. Such a great little car. 

Good old Imps. I've sold as many as I have taken to the tip. The stock engines are so unreliable but a lot of fun to throw around. I put an R1 engine in one many moons ago and that went like stink until I broke the transaxle. 

21 hours ago, oldtimer said:

Sounds good..Got any pics ?

I assume you mean me. If so, sure:

https://imgur.com/a/XLmwT

I am building my house in one bay of a four bay pole shed currently. I had shed builders do the basic frame (including standing the poles) and heavy joists/rafters. Boring things like screwing on tin I did myself because it's pretty hard to stuff it up. The builders used the rafters roughly nailed together and into the ground to hold them straight when stood up. If doing it again I'd still get the builders in. 

Once the council gave me the final sign off I did the concrete floor. I saved a fair by by doing all the boring work myself which was essentially me with a shovel and rake for about 3 days straight. I didn't have it perfectly level but I have minimum 6 inches on concrete so I am sweet. Especially as I have tractors and a truck. 

It used to piss me off not being able to find out costs of these things so hopefully this will help. Rough costs off the top of my head were:

11k for a quins 9X18 four bay pole shed

8k for builders labour. I could have possibly done more but now it's done I'm glad it's finished. 

10k for concrete which included 5k for the pouring, 2k for labour to help shovel it around and powerfloat, 1k for beveling the face for roller door and house part for drainage, 1k for mesh and maybe $200 for poly wrap insulation under it all. My neighbour had a compactor so I stole his for a day. 

I should be able to complete my cabin for under 10k by using second hand windows and doors as well as doing everything myself. I still have three bays for workshop for my shitboxes. I spoke to the council and what I can and cannot do and they said just don't put a kitchen down and it will be considered a sleepout. I'm building to code and using proper framing timber/insulation so I'll be fine. Council have noted it on their file and that's that. I'll retire here so I don't really care about resale. 

Hope that helps. 

I have used both Mongoose and Dynamat on my commer van which has the engine blaring away right next to your left leg. 

Both did OK for the sound but used elsewhere on in the inner panels did stop some of the noise. They were really good for stopping the heat which I liked. I couldn't tell the difference between the two. Carpet and underlay makes more of a difference in my experience. The dynamat is good for stopping hollow thuds and vibrations.