dmulally
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Posts posted by dmulally
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21 minutes ago, Bling said:
Screenshot the photo while viewing it on your phone and upload that. Have seen people do that anyway.
Top tip!
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Sound deadener all on and carpets in. I'd share a pic but apparently my phone takes ones that are too big to share sadly.
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I just used some grease and wax remover and it peeled right off. Very happy with that.
Thanks, gents. Hopefully I can get the sound deadener in and the carpets installed tonight after work. -
9 hours ago, 87creepin said:
Plastic scraper with prepsol. Works better with thinners but that'll be easier to eat your paint @dmulally
Ta. I'll give it a crack later today.
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Does anybody know how to get old underlay pubes off a floor without using a wire wheel/brush? I don't really want to disturb original paint if I don't have to.
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So I sorted out the backfire. I changed the spark plugs which were ancient and fouled and adjusted the timing. It needs to be done properly but it runs so much better now. The throttle response isnt instant but revs very strong. Before it just died if you didnt slowly roll on the throttle. I just turned the dizzy until it worked properly.
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30 minutes ago, kws said:
So, whats the trick to getting a "good" paint job like that in a shed?
To be honest, you win by not caring that much. Up close there are usually a couple of runs and there are imperfections all over the place. But buffing helps cover up poor technique and it'll only get ruined anyway. I cut as many corners as possible. I don't even sand down my primer. I just put a little more thinners in it and sand any problem areas.
It isn't a good paint job at all but from 5 meters away looks great. That is cool by me. I have too many cars/projects to strive for perfection. I only spray 1.5 coats anyway. Just a quick tacking coat and then a full wet coat.
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15 hours ago, tortron said:
Heron Spraymaster Mk2
https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/specialist-cars/other/listing/2995639661?bof=BbugrQWZ
A lot of long suffering partners out there felt a shiver down their spine when that was listed.
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1 minute ago, tortron said:
if you ever get sick of that commer plz let me know. can i interest you in like 3.5 morries that dont go
I'll never be able to sell the commer. I spent a kings ransom on the rebuild only to drive the same speed I did before I started.
I have a deal for you. I'll swap you the Standard 10 for your morries and you hold onto the morries for me.
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Blimey. Forgot about this thread. I need to extract the digit.
So on the boil at the moment with my crap:
- 66 Chev is at compliance. Engineer is being really good about ticking off little things for me. Drove it around for a while and even with the overdrive auto, the 4.5:1 diff ratio is too short for the highway. Oh well, angry Ford Ranger drivers will have to chill out. I really should have just swapped the Eaton diff for a taller one but as it is meant to be a towcar, it is what it is.- Scimitar is going slowly. I'm waiting for some fuel fittings to come in and then I can change the low pressure pump for a boche 044 and run return lines. I have the cut down wiring loom for the L67 and am presently snipping and tucking the bits in the engine bay that foul the engine. That it is fibreglass is pretty handy. I have the tailshaft done already and the engine mounts are all fully welded. Should have gone the na Ecotect as the blower makes things difficult. After that is running I want to take some time (and money) with the suspension and brakes sorted. The stock brakes when I drove it with the essex were pretty crappy.
- Standard 10. I need to get a brake line for the cortina diff and cut down the tail shaft about an inch. Then it is time to get the engine timing set and start the 1200cc's of big block. I doubt I'll even touch this before I move farms later this year. Mainly because even when it is back on the road, I'm not sure what I'll do with it. I doubt I could even give it away.
- Commer van is my daily driver now and is loving it. I had some problems with over heating but a scoop sorted that. Now it stays cool all day long. There is a bit of an oil leak from the sump gasket but that is typical for 1725cc's. It isn't too bad. I took it for some decent jollies lately and one of 1000kms in a day. The oil pressure dropped in the afternoon heat but didn't seem to affect it. I fitted some carpets to the front this week in a vain attempt of making it more quiet. I'm all about noise cancelling headphones. They just about keep up. In 6th gear it sits on 2500rpms between 90-100kph. It gets a little hairy at speeds so I like to sit around 90.
- Jag 340 is the latest dumb purchase and the list to get that back on the road is long but getting shorter. Thankfully getting parts aren't too hard. I gave it a paint job on Sunday to change the white to blue and that was worth it. Next will be to sort some fuel lines, electrical gremlins, and redo the brakes.
- Oliver Dozer. Still doing it's job dragging crap around. When I'm fully set up at the new place I'll fix it up properly as one idler bearing is shot and there are a few small jobs needing doing. Otherwise it has buckets of power but very little weight. Which is the wrong way round for a dozer.
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https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/trucks/flat-deck/listing/2976417721?bof=wQzsU7AJ
So much want. I imagine the reserve is a little higher than I'd like and for a non runner, probably not for me.
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On 17/02/2021 at 14:06, DB8-TypeR said:
I've had Kumho KU25 on my ITR, they were comparable to the Goodyear gsd3 I had prior but nothing particularly special.
Did a track day on them and they handled fine, but certainly more suited to the road.
One benefit is that they seem to last ages
Had the same experience. I was so happy with them I ended up using them as my wet weather tyres on the track for my Lotus 7 clone.
Nowhere near as grippy as the toyo's but they have about a fraction of the lifespan. -
Thanks for that.
Seems my little 2" tacho doesn't work so that wasn't helping me there.
I wasn't sure if this is normal but with the tester globe, both - and + of the coil light up.
Anyway I found a super old tacho that I bought for an old tractor and that worked fine. Doesn't suit the dash but will do until I find a small circle one.
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On 24/11/2016 at 20:53, azzurro said:
Or for cars without factory tacho connect tach signal to the (-) side of the coil (the same wire that goes to the dizzy)and pwer to + side. Only on with ign then. Tach just counts the coils 'earths' per second / number of cyls = rpm so is very low draw. Back Light will probably draw more amps
Bump.
Is this the easiest way to test? Just run a wire to either side of the coil?
I have four wires sticking out of mine.
Green = - side of coil
Black = - side of coil
Red = + side of coil
White = Dash light
Or should I run green to the coil and black to a ground somewhere else and red from a switched power that isn't on the coil?
Thanks in advance.-
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21 hours ago, Dolan said:
haha perhaps.....
there's an old acco butterbox sitting out in the yard waiting for someone to love it.
@dmulally should probably buy it when me bro realises he will never have time to sort it.
one of these
There was a cool army one with a detroit diesel I was eyeing off on TM last week.
https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/gmc/listing/2936711265?archive=1&bof=LqdvTIbn
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I couldn't find a car trailer big enough for my Chevy ute for hire so I ended up building one myself. I've had a few dramas with it over the last year or so but have managed to sort it out. Main issues I had were axle flex with a heavy load (as in my bulldozer). I welded on some bracing to the axles and that sorted that out.
I used a Goughs kit for mine which uses leaf springs and disc brakes. Came with everything I needed except ramps. I made some fold down ramps a couple of weeks ago out of angle iron which need some work as they flex when I have the chev on them.-
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2 hours ago, ThePog said:
I literally have no fucking idea what you are talking about, probably me being dumb/insular...
Where I live, Kmart is full of bogan losers.
I fit right in.-
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2 hours ago, ThePog said:
Yea I need to do the truck with something - apparently you can get rolls of basically that stuff from Kmart for even less than that price.
Time for me to slap on one jandal and go shopping then!
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This is timely. I need to deck out the entire interior of my commer van. I used dynamat on the engine lid and surrounds and it did stuff all. So I'm fine with using a cheaper alternative.
Has anybody tried this stuff? -
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Years ago I got pulled over by the cops for having a bare metal car in Australia. I got away with it saying that I was in the middle of prepping for paint but was told that it has to have a colour.
Anybody know if that is the same story in NZ? Or can I clear coat bare steel and call it a day. It is a farm truck.
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Thanks, gents. I was in town and popped my head into the cert guy's office and got the lowdown and he confirms it.
His note was that if the uni is before the center bearing than it only needs one. A 66 chev has it after so no biggy. Two it is.
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Quick question on safety hoops. Do two piece tailshafts need just one next the gearbox or two including an extra one near the centre bearing?
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17 minutes ago, ThePog said:
You will almost certainly need to make the backing plate yourself, the constructors manual is pretty explicit about what is required for situations like yours. I can probably screenshot the relevant pages if you dont have it already.
On a side note I have two brand new retractable seatbelts I can sell you...
I have the hobby car manual. It doesn't look too difficult. I prefer to buy off the shelf as with my experience with LVV it is easier to show a receipt than to prove what is hidden behind the B pillar.
Thanks for the offer! I'll shoot you a flirty PM.
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Sound deadening
in General Car Chat
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