dmulally

Some before and progress pics of the running gear. The word running is used liberally here.

https://www.angclassiccarparts.co.uk/home/mg-5580/mg-midget-austin-healey-sprite/clutch/clutch-slave-cylinder-gsy113-mg-midgetsprite-1275cc-67 Looks about right. Cheers, gents

Has a bore size of just over 20mm if that helps. So possibly BMC.

To save me having the predictable number plate discussion at Ripco, does anybody know which car this clutch slave is from?

The clutch had fused to the flywheel. Gave it a good sand to get the rust off and then cleaned it up. I scrubbed the rest of it with a wire brush and coated it with light wipe of oil to keep it from rusting again. Ill try and have a crack at starting it before I get too ahead of myself.

Public service announcement: The EA71 has a different bellhousing bolt pattern to the EA81. The Volksconversion adapter I have doesn't fit the EA71 block I have. EXECUTIVE DECISION OVERTURNED

So I have made an executive decision to use the VW box. It will be a lot more faffing about but it will last forever compared to the Imp box and will make it loads more drivable. I popped into my local engineering shop this morning and he had some good ideas in how to do it so I'll do my best to get the engine mounted over the weekend so I can measure it up and get them both down to him next week for cutting and welding. In other news I tig welded up the radiator cap hole in the front rad due to height issues and will put a mini radiator in the rear which I'll use as a filler/bleeder spot. Not sure I'll run a heater or not but with the Subaru water pump and the craig davies in the front I'll have the power/capacity to do so. See how I feel. Which will be bloody cold in winter!

I have a type E gearbox and two essex engines in my shed. Or more like @Adoom has as the scimitar is his problem now. I take it they are different bellhousings?

With some help from the brains trust on my TIG settings I was able to give this a bit of a tidy up. So I need to decide what to do about this gearbox. I have both this and the VW box and two Imps. Also two engines being this EA71 twin carb and an EA81 stocker. These are the specs on the box. Imp: 4th: 0.85 Diff Ratio: 4.8 Overall = 4.08 VW: 4th: 0.82 Diff Ratio: 3.88 Overall = 3.18 Problem is that the VW box when you include an engineer to sort the half shafts and bits and bobs is a $3.5k exercise at least. A theory could be as the EA71 has a shorter stroke it would live with higher RPM's than the EA81 I want to put into the Van eventually. Imp boxes are so shit though and I don't even know if this one works. Open to ideas.

Righto. Drilled it out. So just have to find where I left my 6mm tap and I'll be back in business. Also managed to score those twin carbs. If I can figure out what they are I'll put a kit through them as although I have loosened them up, they were pretty seized. Spewing they only fit this engine and not the EA81 I have off being rebuilt. @Adoom and @cubastreet who is up for another "will it start?" in Carterton? This time I'll bring a crate of ether spray. I forgot to mark where the rotor was pointing on the dizzy so all I need to do is figure out which one is cylinder 1. Easy. Kinda.

Two imps! Although I really need to get down to one which will be the van. So wish I could do an EV on it. Would be perfect.

Plans are for architects. Also in other news I "sold" the red Imp sans running gear and a few other bits and bobs. Swapped it for a stack of roller doors for my big shed.

It's always the last bolt that snaps too. Just when everything is going too smoothly! Oh well. Ill crack on and drill it out.

Question: why was I even born

Managed to take off the old water pump of the EA71. Three bolts snapped. Check out the crap inside. Yikes.

@yoeddynz when you could be bothered, are you able to show me the engine mount setup you have for the datto pls? My one is reasonably clever and uses the original mounting point but I know the LVV cert man won't like it being angle iron and not boxed.

Anybody got any hot tips for rebuilding starters? I sandpapered the round copper looking thing and the three things that go around it but nada. It pushes out but doesnt rotate. If I rotate by hand it is very stiff.

This thing is yuck. I might give it a scrub first and then take a peak under the valve covers. The breather pipes are missing so looks like a lot of condensation/rust could have snuck into it. Soon find out!

Thanks. I'll send you some pics of what it looks like. It looks pretty cruddy though so I might give it a good clean first and see if that's all it takes. Also trying to sort shipping on these: Seller is making it tricky to know a price however. Look at the questions: https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/engines/listing/4289059341

So I got the engine freed up but the starter motor is frozen. Even tried hitting it with a hammer but nada. I might just drop the engine and try to start it on the floor as it's a pain trying to get to things in there.

Yeah furry muff. I suppose I could change it if it starts getting too warm.

The front one is a modern alloy radiator. I could weld it shut but not sure I want to go down that one way street. The 18psi is to keep it closed off. Rear ones look 80's or 90's. Front and rear will be on different circuits (front off the heater lines with an EWP in line) and rear two will be split and on the subie water pump circuit. So all with the same water but going down different paths.

Came with a pretty sweet split radiator setup in the rear. Anybody know if it will be a problem having a filler neck/cap both front and rear? Thinking for the front putting on an 18psi cap and 13psi on the rear with an expansion bottle off that one.

To the left of the plate is hillman and subie to the right. Going to be a right pain when it breaks as it will all need to be swapped over rather than punted into the creek like every other rooted imp box.