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Posts posted by dmulally
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1 hour ago, cubastreet said:
My mate's mum had one of them and I loved it. Wouldn't even be bothered by the slushbox. I'm an idiot.
Total bodyshop are all all good. Was the first place you tried that shop on queen St Masterton?
Yep that's the one. I won't be going back there again.
I was blown away by how great Total Bodyshop were. Worth the cost of petrol and Petone traffic shithousery.
If I can get this POS running I'll cruise to your place in it.
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The AJ6 is a wonderful engine. If they were easily adapted to a manual gearbox I'd love on. So much power on tap. The XK engine is lovely is you're a billionaire who doesn't mind oil leaks.
Speaking of XJ6 oily lumps...
Old mate up the road pops over every now and again to have a chat whilst I'm tinkering on the dozer or something. Really nice guy. He said he has a tractor at home that his dad bought new and I can have for free. So I bobble up in the imp and have a look. It's a David Brown petrol and upon pulling out the dipstick a jet of water came out. So I politely declined that one.
But he mentioned an old car of his he hasn't started in years that nobody but an idiot would want. Jokes on him isn't it?
Automatic sadly but has been converted to the afore mentioned XK engine which is pretty cool.
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8 hours ago, yoeddynz said:
Where's the project thread on the XJS?....
The XJS isn't a project. I turn the key and it goes. Drove to collect some parts off @Bearded Baldy at Taupo and got 9l/100 with the AJ6. Lovely car.
I prob could start a thread on the S-type. That needs a loooot of work.
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On 14/10/2022 at 16:28, Adoom said:
Do I need to use one of those paint filter things when filling the gun when spraying epotec?
I have mixing cups.
And I've ordered an iwata gun with 1.3 and 1.8mm nozzle. And 5L of 2k 'normal' thinners. I assume I use the same thinners for cleaning the gun.
I've still got to get one of those inline water traps that goes just before the gun.
What have I forgotten?
I just drain my tank before/after using and run the air line over a rafter. No idea if it works but I've had a couple of water traps which eventually leaked air which was annoying.
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So I rang this place and they seemed really helpful and super friendly. I'll pop down there during the week to get some supplies.
I'm going to brush paint the interior black but need to get my hands on some nicer seats however. Or at least get them re-trimmed. Super comfy but they look shit.
Normally I spray inside the shed but as I'm waiting for my stupid big shed to be finished (or even started really) it would be an overspray dust nightmare. So am going to paint it on my ramp purely because I won't kick up dust on the grass. This ramp was pretty cool. It was a dirt ramp I used to get my dozer on and off a canter. When the house was being done the concrete truck got stuck in the mud. So I pulled him out and as thanks he said would I like what was left in the truck. So in the pouring rain I learned how to pour concrete with a 4x2 length of wood as a leveller. I put down a bit of fencing mesh inside it during the pour to be extra professional.
And a year later:
One day I'll clean up the sides but I wouldn't bet on it.
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I figured it was a Saturday and nobody wants to work on a Saturday.
Ill shop elsewhere however.
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Hmmm so I went to my kinda local paint shop.
I think I was spoiled by my old one. I had a choice of about three yellows and the closest to pastel was cream.
So I asked for a litre of it in 2k and after much sighing and eye rolling because I didn't have a paint code (I pointed to one in a chart they gave me) they said it would be a week.
I might ring up and cancel it on Monday and go down to the Hutt/Petone. I'm used to having a choice of hundreds of colours and them mixing it whilst I pop out for a bite to eat.
Am I being a dick? Was I just spoiled at my last paint shop (which was Resene in Levin)?
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Then it's settled. Yellow it is with a black roof and maybe bonnet. See how I feel on that one.
Ill pop down to the paint shop next week and get some primer and 2k pastel yellow.
I might just do the inside black with a paintbrush because I cbf'd.
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With the warmer weather coming up I might give the Imp a blow over. The engine bay is already black and as is the roof. Any recommendations for a colour change?
Options are:
Pastel green
Greyish
Black. Half way there but a pain to keep clean and will cook the inside.
This yellow is kind of funky.
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On 10/10/2022 at 09:34, Adoom said:
I've been using mineral turpentine to remove spray on underseal and old contact adhesive. It's the most effective and cheap solvent I have found that does the job, doesn't evaporate super fast but when it does evaporate, it doesn't seem to leave a residue.
Can I paint epotec 408 where I have cleaned up with the turpentine? Or do I need to also use a wax a grease remover?
I use epotec over everything. In saying that I tack with grease and wax remover as a rule anyway.
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21 hours ago, Jusepy82 said:
Hello again ,
sorry bout all the questions buttttttt, what type/size of pannel steel should I be buying for a ford escort to start doing repairs .
Ive hooked up my rig and am practicing my welding and need to start looking for metal to melt into the ol girl....
Thanks in advance.
Have a look on your local marketplace for some crappy old snotter to get a panel off with a grinder. Should be reasonably cheap and small enough to use and chuck out. Otherwise if you get a sheet of 1mm you'll be tripping over it for years.
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So she has new school shoes on and the wof is booked in for Friday next week. Everything works so I won't even be looking at it in the meantime. Still waiting for my air filter to turn up so when that does I'll fit it right away.
One drama was that when in full droop, the gearbox leaked at the input shaft. Made a mess but something for me to note.
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Right then. WOF time is upon us and time to sort the things that could be a potential cock blocker and generally tidy things up. I did order a mechanical water temp gauge but it's the wrong thread for the block so I might have to get one of those ones which goes in the rad hoses. I've ordered four new tyres as one had a slow leak and they are all pretty old and cracked. Doubt they'll pass the WOF as is. So whilst I'm waiting for that I'll sort some minor things.
I had to put some sealant on the fuel gauge sender so whilst I was there I coated the spare wheel well in POR15. It was a little rusty looking so this is the perfect crime.
Also took this opportunity to get rid of the crappy pit bike pod filter and tarted up an original one.
It's presently baking in my state of the art heated paint booth today. This is the heat resistant POR15 which takes daaaaaays to dry.
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Does anybody know if changing from a fleetside normal ute deck to a flatdeck tipping bed need to be run through LVV?
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Ahh I see what you mean. That is a pain.
Perhaps near the diff?
My trick for lowered cars is to set the front number plate at the same height as the sump or whatever. Then if you hear that scratch find another supermarket with less annoying speed bumps!
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I'm sure you have looked at this option but with some ducting perhaps the below would be an option.
https://www.southernrods.com/a-c-and-heat-components/remote-condenser-fan-combo.html
I'd possibly put horizontal under the radiator mounted with a small scoop. Or perhaps off to a side.
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Ahhh I see what you're saying. I thought you were talking about overcooling. My bad!
What you're saying makes sense.
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18 hours ago, kws said:
Just picking up on something you mentioned; can't running a thermo fan constantly cause issues with cooling when moving as it disrupts airflow through the core?
Wouldn't it be the same as starting the car and immediately driving down the freeway with the airflow? The thermostat should block it from flowing until up to temp anyway.
I have my thermo fan on a switch for my chev but unless on a winter morning and I remember I leave it on. I'm not sure banana benders get winters however. Putting on the shroud I found made the biggest difference for my overheating dramas and in the end was the engine itself.
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Right then. Getting myself emotionally prepared for the conversion to dual fuel. Trying to find any information on diagrams online is a little tricky. Mostly because of the idiot behind the keyboard.
Can anybody steer me right with a diagram so I know what to hunt for? From memory it went tank - regulator - mixer - carb. I do recall needing about 1km of open highway to switch from petrol to LPG. I sure hope technology has improved since those heady days.
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On 29/06/2022 at 12:05, dmulally said:
Hi All,
Im looking at converting a small block chev to diesel. The only diesels I have played with have been on tractors and that usually consisted of me swearing a lot.
I have acquired a 4BE1 from an Isuzu elf (I assume) but was pulled from a range rover.
Before I do anything I want to floor test this engine. Can I get a couple of pointers on how to do this safely please?
I was going to wedge on wood and hook it up to an engine crane so it doesn't flop over.
Questions:
1. Is the fuel line going to the front of the injector pump the inlet and the one at the rear the return? Can I just throw them both into a jerry can?
2. Do I need an electronic lift pump in line or if I put the jerry up higher will that be enough?
3. I have no idea how to turn it off. There is a single wire coming off the injector pump. Is that the on/off switch and should I just put 12v to that for "spark"?
4. Why do I do this to myself? I could retire if it weren't for dumb shit projects.
Thanks in advance! I'll film the first attempt to blow it up if anybody wants.
Right then. Started first kick. Now to find a gearbox for it.
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Right this makes sense. Now to the other questions...
dmulally’s 1965 Hillman Imp
in Projects and Build Ups
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Painting outside in the Wairarapa in spring is a lot of fun.