dmulally

I popped in to speak to my local WOF guy but he wasn't in today so just wondering if anybody knows the answer to this. I have a rolling chassis of a Scimitar. It was once an auto in a previous life but is now a nothing. The rego is on hold and I'm wondering if when I take it in for a WOF if it is a manual is there any way for them to tell if using all stock components? If I have to go through LVV I might as well do a real engine swap rather than use one of the three essex lumps I have collected.

So woke up this morning and it indeed needed an overnight burp. It took around half a litre to top up and good to go. What a difference it makes. It can now easily sit on 60mph without stinking of burning oil and smoking on cool down. Fixing the oil leak helped too. I'm genuinely shocked at what a difference it makes. Random pic of it with it's bigger brother outside the new shed I need to build for it.

Hmmmm so I took it out for some takeaway. The hoses heading forward used to be joined together and were too hot to touch where it snaked past your leg (oooh errr Vicar!) Now the one going into the aux rad is warm to hot but not scalding like before. The one going back to the engine is cold. Even the outlet pipe is cold to the touch. So either it is cooling better than I ever imagined or there is a blockage in the core or something. I have parked it on a ramp to work any air bubbles back to the radiator overnight.

I was too lazy to wire in the temp gauge first and with a warm weekend coming up I wanted to keep things cool. So I plumbed in the aux cooler and moved the plate low and to the right to not block the cooler and direct air in. Should be good for another 1.3 horsepower.

I went with the Honda engine in the end. The Micra one was sensible, reliable, relatively simple install and good on fuel. All of which are not how I roll.

Naturally the spare pump was missing bits so I made one pump from two. It all runs now. In the meantime a deal is being struck for a new engine which should make it a little more fun when this one finally dies.

Hmmmm... After fixing that loose nut on the fuel pump the fuel pump no longer works. It came with a spare one so I'll go through the dance of swapping that over and fixing the oil leak at the same time. If that doesn't work I'll convert to electric. I'll do anything to avoid actually checking I have fuel in the tank I guess.

I also fitted the Torana heater core and it looks like a good fit. I had to relocate the horn as well as do a bit of massaging with the grinder and hammer for it to fit. I don't have hose clamps so what I might do is wire up the temp gauge for the sat night chippy run and see where it sits then hook up the aux radiator and have a look see.

I contacted the previous owner and he mentioned to check the rear fuel pump nut. Sure enough it was loose as a goose so I tightened it up and will sort out a cork gasket and some rtv to fix that up. Hopefully that will get me by. The fast reply of where to look and the sealant tells a story.

Was down half a litre of radiator fluid today. Brown undies time checking the oil and oil filler cap for any signs of water but thankfully none.

Lovely thanks. Can you see any way a FWD will fit in the boot? Perhaps with a honda gearbox?

So a VW gearbox with the correct gearing and everything to make it run (excluding engineering half shafts and mounts as it is a longer box) is close to 4k. That's with a rebuilt box obviously.

I'd be happy to pay over the odds for neat wiring. I just find in my experience there are more things to go wrong with setting up an EFI and it becomes death by 1000 cuts buying all the little sensors and whatsits to get it to run that didn't come with the engine as it just looks like a computer shat itself to me at first glance. The easiest wiring looms I have set up have been bike ones. They tend to be one plug does one thing and it's hard to go wrong as it is all so short. I'm actually quite happy with the stock 37hp of the imp. Taller gearing would show it up but I think for a car about the town it would be great. Sadly all my driving is on long straight rural roads.

This is another powerplant I'm looking at. Shaft driven and similar specs to a decent fast road Imp engine. Honda: 74hp/90lb-ft Imp Sport: 51hp/53lb-ft Problems would be reverse and where to mount the engine. I'm not sure which way the tailshaft rotates so would mean getting the right diff facing the right direction. Being a bike I can only think of a commodore IRS which have super tall ratios that would suit it.

Really? Can we explore this for a moment please? Some considerations: Adapting to a VW box (I'd have to speak to Brian Howat to see if he does adapters) Mid mounting a subframe so the engine and stock gearbag is in the back seat (LVV would be a pain for that) Using the Micra gearbox and reversing the diff direction so the engine could fit in the stock location Gear linkages although that is a minor problem compared to the rest Fuel pump and return Does the ECU need any mods? Wiring doesnt really look that simple to me but I'm just a pretty face. Does it need the dash cluster to run properly to avoid throwing out faults/limp home mode? Tbf a stock Imp is in limp home mode regardless. Penny for any thoughts.

So Silverdale rads never got back to me so I have taken a bit of a leap of faith and gone for a Torana heater core for an auxiliary radiator. It has the same outlet pipe dimensions so that's a good start. I'll have to have a play with the housing and adjust it to fit in.

Took it for a good 30 min run for Sat night takeaway. Sadly the oil leak onto the exhaust is still prevalent. Might have to give the engine a full scrub and test drive before whacking it up on the hoist.

I think the leak is coming from the cam cover (I think) so I re-torqued that to factory specs. Christ there is nothing more scary than tightening already loose nuts on an engine with the strength of a bowl of porridge.

Comparing my talents with EFI to that of a monkey is insulting to monkeys. Lovely idea but no efi. I'd go diesel if they weren't so heavy as even less wiring!

This is the hole I have to work with for a second radiator. I've pinged Silverdale Radiators who I have found easy to deal with in the past to see if a heater matrix they have might be a goer.

Every drive that ends without a tow is a good one.

I love rotaries but the prices for runners are moon money these days. I don't really need more power. Just more gearing (VW box swap) and reliability. This imp engine is a decent runner but isnt really rural roads friendly. Would be perfect for in town.

A Morry big block?

https://www.trademe.co.nz/3502080803

Right. This engine is already getting on my tits. Open to engine swap ideas. 50-100hp, reliable, and carb. Ideas so far are EA81, Suzuki Carry, 1600 cortina. I don't care about handling. 99% of my driving is in 100kph zones with long lazy corners.