johnny.race

Yeah it is pretty major' as you put it - re fabricating torsion bar rear mounts in places there was none. I've done it and its pretty time consuming.

Not a Mitz but it don't matter ... they all work the same at the bum end. This is on a modified Hilux chassis that originally had the adjusters placed on the inside of the bars. I wanted to put a gearbox there and did not want to be constrained in any manner. So cut the entire OEM cross member out when it became apparent that starting from scratch was my only recourse towards what I wanted to achieve.  Used late model adjusters and fabbed the rest. Just needs gussets now and I will be done. The chassis rolls with a BB and the setup seems to handle it all well. A lot of work though. For your info.

1 hour ago, NickJ said:

I guess you'll rig up a guard for the rail? won't like splatter too much

Yeah, that's a thought. Will think on it/do something when I am working on it/finishing it all off next. I pulled the electric motor off in order carry out some isolation works but got waylaid. I want to isolate it (electrically) from the rest of the structure and welder. I am not sure why except to say its an AC unit and I don't want the welder to earth thru it or fuck it in any way ... and turn everything electrically hot (if that's possible)  I am not a electrician so don't know the intricacies of it all but just going to isolate the fucking thing so its not an issue. I am going to earth directly to the rim I think. It only does one revolution so don't need a fancy swivel or anything. Will see. Cheers. 

Out of interest ... what size wheels are you running? 13 or 14's? What wheel stud pattern does an Escort run? Do the motors in those produce enuff power to use a low 3. something :1 in the arse? 

I use the retaining ring to press the bearing on. Doing it like this means all the force of the ring is concentrated on the part of the bearing you want to be pushing on. The bearing and the ring seat together. There is not  hammer or torch in sight when fitting bearings and the operation seems smooth as fuck. A decent press and appropriate jig helps though.

Read the fine print in the blurb TIMKEN enclose with each of their bearing sets .... don't use heat it says the last time I read it.  Re using heat - I'm guessing the same school that taught you to use heat on the shrink ring also taught you to use heat on the end of an axle before you went at it with a piece of HSS. Its all oldschool thinking I reckon. You can tell when a ring has been put on using heat ... on a Hilux axle the rubber seal is all blistered/fucked looking and the BW's and 9 Inches sometimes have a blue hue going on.

All that said though, I have never heard of any axle mishap occurring due specifically to what method was used to fit the retainer ring, but fuck hammering bearings.

Track rear is not diff width. You need to get under your car with a tape measure. I wouldn't trust google re OEM diff widths.  

How wide is the diff?

Yep. He's holding the big end in a divider by the brake register. He's doing light cuts because he's got no support behind the axle and the color of his chips say so. He'll be ever so careful when he's doing his test fits with a side gear with the tailstock removed ... all that axle sticking out unsupported. He'll chock it up using that big hunk of iron sitting in the middle there. Its almost if i am there, aye?! Lol! I love seeing the different setups and are reasonably versed in the challenges of the task in hand.

He won't be turning down the bearing journal OD if that core is from an AU. They are the same size as Valiant used already/in stock form. He maybe attempting to alter the brake offset distance? Thinning the inside hub shoulder down? Ummm ... the brake register hub diameter would be bigger on the Ford too? Good stuff. Keep us posted.

Nice bro. How many passes? Must be several because those chips are not electric blue like my ones come off like. Whereabouts is the old man grabbing the axle with the indexer? At the end or along the shaft somewhere? Cool to see this kinda stuff.

The bigger drums had the fins from what I can see and yeah - I am saying 2.5 for 2.5. I don't know for sure but it makes sense to me ... or why would Ford make them any bigger than they absolutely had to. Go well. You must be running two different stud patterns aye matey. 

5 minutes ago, Toddy415 said:

Whats the easyest way to confirm which bearing type / size I have? 

On those things ... by pulling an axle. It'll be either a ball or a tapered roller. If its a tapered roller it'll be a Timken SET20 and you'll be the owner of a late model big bearing Torino style housing. If its a ball bearing style and it measures 3.150"/80mm then it will also be big bearing but the early style. Ifs its a ball bearing but smaller than 80mm in diameter, then it'll be a small bearing type. Pull an axle man. See what spline you have got at the same time. You can't go off the old 1/2" or 3/8" rule anymore ... I've seen tapers come out of holes where there should have been a ball. They obviously knew what they were doing because they had removed the seal too. Just saying. 

31 minutes ago, Toddy415 said:

Question regarding 9inch drum brakes, my impala has a 9inch in it and took a look at the drums on it in the weekend. One shoe on each side had delaminated and were floating in the drum and one side is missing the guide for the adjusting cable so cable is just floating around. Now i have no idea what car the diff was out of so when ordering new shoes does it matter as long as I get the right size or are there variences in the shoes for different models? 

Second question is the current shoes are 2" wide but drums measure 2.5" is this normal to create tollerance or the wrong shoes have been put in? Was thinking 2.5" shoes in the 2.5" drums might be to tight? 

3rd question is there is a bit of grease seeping out into one of the drums how hard are these seals to replace? 

Cheers Michael

Get your shoes relined (if they are the correct ones that suit your drums etc)

I'm not really familiar with OEM 9" drum setups but I'd be guessing the guide thingy you are talking about would be the same in most of the other 9" drum offerings. They'd be side dependent though. Each side would mirror the other so you need to get the side you are after.

The 9" came with 3 different brake offsets as well as several different shoe widths. You'l be able to see straight away if the drums don't match the backing plates. The drums have that receiver groove thing going on with the backing plate. Furthermore, if the shoes look obscenely skinny compared to the drum then someones probably swapped them in at sometime during the past. You beable to see the wear pattern in the drum. They are designed to be all used' - if that makes sense.

There are 3 different bearing sizes and 2 different types. What have you got? Each of the 2 types have their own way of controlling oil leakage. If Hypoid (it is oil and not fluid, yeah?) then regardless of the bearing type - it all needs changing out. In one case the bearing contains the primary oil seal so must be changed as a unit and in the other - its seal has failed so allowing oil ingression that will lead to shitting your bearing (its supposed to be sealed) The main oil seal for this type will be located inside the axle housing.  The seal in/on the bearing is the last resort and is there to protect the bearing.

Chur.    

1 hour ago, rusty360 said:

Cool thanks for the info. Were could I get the info for a crush space? I could make a new one if need be.

Mate, you won't be making a collapsible spacer at home me thinks. If you are going to be making anything - it will be a solid spacer. You read about guys saying they made one blah blah and seemingly like its an easy 5 min job on a lathe. Its not. It involves some very tight tolerances being kept, some decent measuring equipment and the hardest thing .... a source for obtaining shims. On top top of this is the design of the diff ... if its a Banjo or a Salisbury has massive implications from an ergonomic POV if you are R&D'ing a homebuilt solid spacer setup. Can you buy a collapsible or solid spacer kit for an early Holden diff? . Whats an EH diff - Banjo or ? The Aussies must have something.

I dunno, I have never seen/worked on an EH diff but will offer up this little observation. I pulled apart a BW from out of a XY Falcon a few months ago and discovered it had a solid spacer fitted. I'm pretty sure it was factory and that I was the first one to pull it apart. So yeah ... there was a fair bit of solid spacery' going on in them days. Pay to check before paying a pro to do what can be done at home with a rattle gun. Just saying.

17 hours ago, RUNAMUCK said:

*mandatory..

Bro, I didn't understand it like that. I understood the paragraph to mean that running these were mandatory but that equivalent sized Lake Pipes were an acceptable alternative/option.

3mm

Yep, I was right ... run an engine from the 60 and mid point of 70 and you are sweet. Lake pipes are optional.

On 01/10/2019 at 20:48, Nominal said:

There are also cat requirements in LVVTA code.

What implication does that have for hot rods matey? I thought if you were running a donk from out of the 60's/70's you were ok?

Anyone tried one of these? Your thoughts for a penny?

https://www.trademe.co.nz/business-farming-industry/industrial/manufacturing-metalwork/welders/listing-2366469798.htm?rsqid=7d5a324775f1446382b36a0b5f29f447-002

On 20/10/2019 at 20:12, RUNAMUCK said:

We already have a hoard of bw75's. 

A 3.45:1  lsd 78 was I think 200-250. New bearings were around $150. 

The axles will be shortened in house. 

Bit of jiggery pokery and the bw78 crown and pinion fit inside the 75 housing.  The lsd was pretty coozed. So the tape cones where machined to stop them bottoming in the housing. And shimed up to resurrect the side gear mesh. 

Bit of fucking around, but not super spendy.  Time will tell how long it holds up. Pretty sure the crush tube has also been replaced with a solid spacer too. 

So I take it that 28 spline axles were got (probably from the same diff the carrier came from) and then cut down and resplined in order to replace the 25 spline items? I'm trying to follow what has been done. Question ... did you end up using the brakes that came with the 28 spline axles?

You can tell if it came out of an AU or not. The bearing retainer plate changed on the AU when compared to the earlier models. The AU housing flange is wayyy thicker than the earlier models and its bolt pattern is more of a square' as opposed to the earlier models rectangular shape. Different brakes also.

41 minutes ago, nzed said:

Not the flat ones, the black curved turds is what i have/had.

 

 

Do you still have these? I have had 4 of these for around 9 years now. I remember balking at the cost of them back then. I am sure I paid something like a couple of hundy a pair or something. Maybe that was for all 4 of them, I can't remember. I dunno, but I knew they were expensive at the time. I've always thought they were pretty beefy and robust. I've never had problems with them. I wonder if they have changed the gauge of plate they are using? If you still have yours would you put a pair of verniers over them in order to determine the material thickness they are made from. I will do mine.

14 hours ago, 00quattro00 said:

What difference does it make having equal length axles?

Any diff that has equal length axles will not have the pinion centered within said diffs width. Most jap utes (I have not seen all of them but am talking about Luxers and Couriers et.al) have equal length axles. For instance the pinion offset of a OEM Lux is over an inch. This surprises people at times when they have lined up the pinion with the gearbox and then proceeded to weld stuff in/on then find they can run stagger if they want to. Then on the other side of the tree you have diffs like the BW78 which has the pinion more or less centered within it width. This is achieved by having a longer drivers side axle than what is found on the passenger side. Factory 9 inchers are like this also. Funny old world. 

Carrying this on and adding to what @cletus was saying about his A body (a Valiant) having some offset. He is talking about engine offset. You need to be aware of and factor this into diff swaps to if you are aligning tailshafts with pinions. Especially on those MoPars. Ahh, thank god for string lines and plumb bobs.