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AALAWS

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Posts posted by AALAWS

  1. 1 hour ago, tortron said:

    Car jam report off the chassis number

    Didn't come up on carjam unfortunately

    54 minutes ago, Carsnz123 said:

    Why do you need proof? The compliance officer will have that information available to them. 

    I just don't want to do all the work and then not be able to register it because of silly paperwork/proof of ownership yadda yadda........so you saying I don't need anything like that?

    • Like 1
  2. Hey Guys. My new ke25 shell has no paperwork history, but a quick call to LTNZ ( via the chassis number) and they told me it was last registered in August 2006, however they wouldn't give me any of that in writing for some strange reason. I need some sort of proof etc to get it re registered so they suggested I fill out a CA03 Alternative Documents Form and pay them $184 (their hourly rate btw) for the pleasure.......any words of wisdom before go further with this?

  3. I swear by Sikaflex urethane, but you need to use the complimentary clear primer/activator to prepare the glass and aperture to avoid any bonding issues. (3min flash off time) If you've got fresh paint on the aperture, then give the bonding area a quick scuff with scotch pad and use the ska black primer (10min cure time).

    If you have a yarn to a local Smith and Smith they might let you buy a tube and have a nearly empty activator and primer for cheap/free.

  4. Shiny Goodness.

    IMG_4491.JPG.1359936a479680b3c50acd095496e734.JPGIMG_4492.JPG.760a15a91f4f3e78855d7fdffda08fc5.JPGIMG_4493.JPG.61b1f4e39633741abd772f9a2ffbff31.JPGIMG_4494.JPG.ea91e7ea577d066311b11e38e3e06ba0.JPGIMG_4495.JPG.666ba74dda10419a13e240b0ad02b00b.JPGIMG_4497.JPG.d87919f0b4c2d38a9dfcd4cc26373361.JPG

    All painted and ready to assemble.

    Just not sure on the exact arrangement of my coil over kit........any advice?

    1. There is two bits at the bottom for the spring to perch on. I assume having both of them threaded up tightly together is sufficient to hold the spring, but which way do they go? As in the picture? I've seen ones where the bigger one is flipped and at the bottom? and does one of the red plastic washers/spacers need to sit between the spring and the mount?

    IMG_4498.JPG.6ddbc335fbe84fbe7952f265c3c3527f.JPG

     

    2. does the insert need a spacer between it and the outside of the strut tube or is having the threaded top enough?

    IMG_4499.JPG.6fbb7f66f2fb3f29bc7ef4afb1714e89.JPGIMG_4500.JPG.8042b414eb141546b6d444aca42fe9ab.JPG

     

    3. Does the larger spring go first, or the smaller one (the retainer spring i believe?) ....again I have seen both ways.

    4. The extra red plastic spacer is seen in the last photo....doe this sit between the threaded base/perch and the first spring? or the top of the top spring? (which is where it was in the kit but that black one is already there so that raised the question for me. I'm leaning towards the first option but just wanted to double check.

    IMG_4501.JPG.838316a90d80dee56691589f6ade61f9.JPGIMG_4502.JPG.3d920d42b09d7ada9941f98e2833e782.JPG

    Cheers folks......help a noob out!!

     

    • Like 3
  5. Just like a state house........Crack testing passed!
    Gave a few bits a coat of primer the other day, then some top coats yesterday while the weather was......warmer atleast.
    It got pretty cold once I had finished, hopefully that doesn't effect the6-8 hour cure time??

    IMG_4393.JPG.5cdfb05e2a9439649e2def887a82e7a2.JPGIMG_4394.JPG.1ad129e69a8be3093fe38767f39de828.JPG

    IMG_4408.JPG.16ec12259ba221f372f35d93ae810aba.JPG

    Had them all hanging together with the fan heater going to warm up the area....complete with hi-tech corrugated cardboard insulation barriers!

    IMG_4409.JPG.0b1bcbae9896acbba869b58dbd5a662d.JPG

    Powercleaned the diff housing, doused the inside with CRC and gave it a rub down with rust converter, and another coat on the leaf springs.

    IMG_4410.JPG.77e01ce8b0ffb83a8573e0e53712cad6.JPG

    Also had the shitty paint blasted off the callipers and got some crappy tyres fitted to the wheels to get it rolling atleast.

    IMG_4392.JPG.305ace3d2f9986bd0096fc772a2c419a.JPGIMG_4391.JPG.39a948c90e3b886b7f1d8581bdc9c7fc.JPG

    Ordered some bigger U-bolts and the lowering blocks/brackets are being modified to fit them.
    Now I just need another good day to finish off the top coats and the fun part of assembling all of this to get it rolling begins!

     

     

    • Like 5
  6. On 4/20/2018 at 18:06, tenyearguarantee said:

    Hey, what are the front seats from? I wouldnt mind a set like that for my 25

    Sorry mate - long time no see........they're recaro's that I had custom skinned in a te27 style finish.
    They came with the car so not 100% sure but maybe from a surf??? they have solid headrests, not the fish net style

  7. If a screens been replaced before the urethane is usually easier to cut than the original so feeding through a special cutting wire and attaching handles is the best method....but you have to be so careful getting started or around the edges as any little knick can start a crack. You have to pull down and away from the edges so the wire isn't being lifted into the screen. Heaps of places have these....glasscorp, glass tools ltd.....

    The beauty of the wire is that it does the work, you don't have to saw, just pull/lean on each end alternatively and your away.

    I rarely use a long knife as a) the risk of cutting/damaging trim and or yourself increases, and b, the scratching on the aperture needs to be throughly wired back and primed. I can't tell you how many screens I've pulled out here lately, that have been installed by the major franchises, and they're rusty due to not dealing with the scratches. S&S provides all their fitters with a great wire tool for removing screens safely and cleanly so there's no excuse for it really.

    If there's minimal room between the screen and the frame, or it's an old nissan with too much urethane (true story) I have a new fangled tool with a fibre line that I feed around the whole screen and cut it out from the inside....it is operated by a cordless drill.

    • Like 2
  8. Found a ke25 shell today.........salvaged the windscreens, a few plastic clips and the door chrome.

    IMG_4098.thumb.JPG.149d27e590ab5547fb8a31787dd3b536.JPG

    Local engineer still hasn't sorted my diff and struts etc......and still a little boy waits......
    Check out left to rot to see the two other wrecks hiding under the trees......

    • Like 7
  9. Ok so it's Wednesday tomorrow.....maybe I'll drop all those parts off in the morning :doubt:

    My rear panel arrived via ML Racing! it looks like it's been a newish panel stitched on to a rustier car. It's been hacked off the back of the donor so thankfully all those rusty bits like the remainder of the boot floor etc can just be removed as I only need the actual face of the panel. It's got a bit of pitting along the bottom valance and a few small holes, but it's miles better than the bent swiss cheese on my car at the mo. Inner tie rod ends arrived too.......just waiting on one last delivery of gaskets and other small bits and we'll be in business.

    IMG_4059.JPG.bdfe86c12a37ba811faf5501a9440a20.JPGIMG_4056.JPG.1987f19b75ae2902706f1cf5d8ae71bf.JPGIMG_4060.JPG.5ca6d296b07ff6c9c48b188b5748ac66.JPG

    IMG_4057.JPG

    IMG_4058.JPG

    • Like 2
  10. aargh!! Looking at the old pics of this!! Better bloody get a hurry up on and get this finished!!
    Few more bits arrived to get it on it's wheels. Toyota diff gaskets and a few seals etc, cusco camber plates, front bushing kit ex eBay Thailand, AE86 discs and a replacement for a bent suspension arm (cheers Daz at Oldscool....eventually ha ha)....I'll get the bits off to the engineer on monday for a professional steel glue job.....then it's paint and assemble.
    IMG_4040.JPG.28025be5898da707d0010b54d6c550e2.JPGIMG_4041.JPG.758bbbe10c2fde27bc5d8bdbdd62c6ac.JPGIMG_4042.JPG.fe983afb7c5bb49ab0a56d8b6eca854e.JPG

    • Like 1
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