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Posts posted by AALAWS
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Just like a state house........Crack testing passed!
Gave a few bits a coat of primer the other day, then some top coats yesterday while the weather was......warmer atleast.
It got pretty cold once I had finished, hopefully that doesn't effect the6-8 hour cure time??Had them all hanging together with the fan heater going to warm up the area....complete with hi-tech corrugated cardboard insulation barriers!
Powercleaned the diff housing, doused the inside with CRC and gave it a rub down with rust converter, and another coat on the leaf springs.
Also had the shitty paint blasted off the callipers and got some crappy tyres fitted to the wheels to get it rolling atleast.
Ordered some bigger U-bolts and the lowering blocks/brackets are being modified to fit them.
Now I just need another good day to finish off the top coats and the fun part of assembling all of this to get it rolling begins!- 5
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Finally!!!
Off to drop these off to get crack tested tomorrow!! - along with the rear diff and the 4age mounts on a ke25 crossmember.MMMM......professional quality welding
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19 minutes ago, jono007 said:
Sorry to ask but who did your seats? They look amazing.
A chap called Grant.....he specialises in ke25/te27, te37 and old celica seat skins and door cards
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So I finally got (most) of my bits back from the engineer! (Front struts/coil overs due early next week)
Bearings removed from axles and minor repair to axle - wire wheeled up the hub faces and will need to replace a stud.
Ball joints removed from LCA's, bolts swapped into straight (non bent) strut bar.Rusty section cut out of backing plate........which I then proceeded to put a hole in when cleaning up the welds ha ha will get it filled up easily enough.
And the main event........leaf spring perches onto the AE86 diff housing
And after a quick mock up and to check alignment......it is the goods! (will need to get bigger U-bolts for the larger diff housing)
Now to get it crack tested and then all painted up and assembled to get the car on it's wheels for panelbeating!!
Feels so good to finally be making some progress again. And in other good news, a local garage I've been doing some glass work for has a sandblast cabinet and is going to blast that shitty paint off my callipers for me so I can repaint them and assemble them with all my NOS parts goodness!
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On 4/20/2018 at 18:06, tenyearguarantee said:
Hey, what are the front seats from? I wouldnt mind a set like that for my 25
Sorry mate - long time no see........they're recaro's that I had custom skinned in a te27 style finish.
They came with the car so not 100% sure but maybe from a surf??? they have solid headrests, not the fish net style -
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51 minutes ago, Evan said:
You get this sorted?
Yeah cheers mate all done
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I've seen fibreglass bumpers are available.....there's a slowly increasing amount of aftermarket parts for these comping at our Asia at the mo so there could possibly be something out there....
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If a screens been replaced before the urethane is usually easier to cut than the original so feeding through a special cutting wire and attaching handles is the best method....but you have to be so careful getting started or around the edges as any little knick can start a crack. You have to pull down and away from the edges so the wire isn't being lifted into the screen. Heaps of places have these....glasscorp, glass tools ltd.....
The beauty of the wire is that it does the work, you don't have to saw, just pull/lean on each end alternatively and your away.
I rarely use a long knife as a) the risk of cutting/damaging trim and or yourself increases, and b, the scratching on the aperture needs to be throughly wired back and primed. I can't tell you how many screens I've pulled out here lately, that have been installed by the major franchises, and they're rusty due to not dealing with the scratches. S&S provides all their fitters with a great wire tool for removing screens safely and cleanly so there's no excuse for it really.
If there's minimal room between the screen and the frame, or it's an old nissan with too much urethane (true story) I have a new fangled tool with a fibre line that I feed around the whole screen and cut it out from the inside....it is operated by a cordless drill.- 2
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@Otodat sniffed out a lead of a possible KE25........Owner was good enough to let me salvage a few bits, also there was an old vauxhall and Isuzu Bellett
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These parts?
91660: 73872-01M0591246: 73873-15F00
I have access to a few oddball parts through some contacts an can check for you?
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Ok so it's Wednesday tomorrow.....maybe I'll drop all those parts off in the morning
My rear panel arrived via ML Racing! it looks like it's been a newish panel stitched on to a rustier car. It's been hacked off the back of the donor so thankfully all those rusty bits like the remainder of the boot floor etc can just be removed as I only need the actual face of the panel. It's got a bit of pitting along the bottom valance and a few small holes, but it's miles better than the bent swiss cheese on my car at the mo. Inner tie rod ends arrived too.......just waiting on one last delivery of gaskets and other small bits and we'll be in business.- 2
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aargh!! Looking at the old pics of this!! Better bloody get a hurry up on and get this finished!!
Few more bits arrived to get it on it's wheels. Toyota diff gaskets and a few seals etc, cusco camber plates, front bushing kit ex eBay Thailand, AE86 discs and a replacement for a bent suspension arm (cheers Daz at Oldscool....eventually ha ha)....I'll get the bits off to the engineer on monday for a professional steel glue job.....then it's paint and assemble.- 1
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Howdy - looks like you probably have an abundance of parts now, but I have a mate in Auckland with an imp van, coupe and fastback? - all three versions anyway.
I'll get you his details if you need them? -
I was just going to post about this too......I need my ke25 rust cut to somehow appear in the Waikato/Otorohanga if anyone's making a trip??
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1 hour ago, Otodat said:
Seems like you have got some momentum on this at the moment, good stuff keep it up
yeah mate cheers! - got some good time in over the last wee while to order parts, plan and prepare to get it down to the panel beaters.
Do you have a press up at your place? I'll definitely be needing a hand to put in all the bearings and balljoints and gaskets etc when it all gets assembled.....
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Gave the leaf springs and brackets etc a wire wheel and a coat of rust converter
What's the best top coat on all this stuff.....steering arms, strut bars, diff, blah blah...........powder coat or paint (special kind)?- 2
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Jig made!
It's a bit rudimentary and the welds probably belong in design & disasters thread but the Leaf Spring perches in pretty much the exact right space - tape measure measurements agree with the chassis repair manual. Just need to make a little bracket to keep the face at exactly 90 degrees, but after that everything is you see is ready for some professional cutting and welding.Also had a big stash of bits arrive ready for all the reassembly. All genuine Toyota except for the eBay bushes....didnt really want to go down the nolathane/urethane etc path.
Included with all the bearings and shims etc were 2 little ae86 pedal cushions.....I took a gamble to see if they would fit my te27 pedal box....ah yesssss. OCD satisfied.
Before....
After.......perfik
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So the wiper motor is all cleaned up and fitted to the te27 pedal box
and I may have solved the grommet issue using some ae86 ones (if they arrive - that's another story)Got some wheels - 14x6 SSR Mesh. I need it on wheels for the panelbeater so these are good placeholders until they get a refurb or something else could pop up.
The lips are a bit scuffed and one is a bit bent, but they'll be getting widened once the car is done if I use them.
I'm going to hold off on the final decision about rack and pinion coversion until the very last minute. I need to get all the subframe and steering etc back together to get it rolling so can't be stuffed getting tied up in all that conversion and maths shit (blahblah time $$ and frustration).
I've ordered a truck load of bits to get this ready (plus found some NOS outer tie rod ends and Pitman arm I had stashed away)
SW20 rear struts for coilovers
Idler arm, ball joints and outer tie rod ends
T3 RCA's
Cusco te27 Camberplates
Full set new rubber bushings
AE86 front & rear bearings and seals
Diff gaskets
Caliper rebuild kits
AE86 Rotors
Brake fitting kits and shims........theres more I've forgotten to list too....such a mission finding out all the parts you need and ordering them from all over!and some box section to make up a jig for transferring the leaf spring perches to the AE86 Diff housing - which is hopefully this weekends job.So theres a bit of welding, painting, crack testing and assembling and hopefully by the end of Feb she'll be other wheels again.
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Labour of love on the roof there mate.
what paint did you use for your diff? I've got to redo all mine and steering arms etc... -
5 hours ago, MaxPower said:
please go ahead and put a rack in your ke25 so i know what parts to use in mine. the steering is the one thing i would like to address in my track car, just doesn't feel good at all, could be the wide tyres on the front though.
Look up the one on rollaclub, it's pretty thorough, just different parts compared to my setup. The pic above is from another rollaclub post from a guy in Dunedin, he used all the bits I mentioned in the first post.
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I'm thinking I might put it in the "Meh" pile.......
As a first build i've already got my hands pretty full. I found a pretty detailed break down on rolla club of a switch but it's using completely different parts (struts, LCA's, steering arms, non factory column and top end etc).I'll set it up as standard for now and if it ever gets finished I'll drive it a wee bit and assess again then.
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Alasdair's 1974 KE25 Corolla
in Projects and Build Ups
Posted
Shiny Goodness.
All painted and ready to assemble.
Just not sure on the exact arrangement of my coil over kit........any advice?
1. There is two bits at the bottom for the spring to perch on. I assume having both of them threaded up tightly together is sufficient to hold the spring, but which way do they go? As in the picture? I've seen ones where the bigger one is flipped and at the bottom? and does one of the red plastic washers/spacers need to sit between the spring and the mount?
2. does the insert need a spacer between it and the outside of the strut tube or is having the threaded top enough?
3. Does the larger spring go first, or the smaller one (the retainer spring i believe?) ....again I have seen both ways.
4. The extra red plastic spacer is seen in the last photo....doe this sit between the threaded base/perch and the first spring? or the top of the top spring? (which is where it was in the kit but that black one is already there so that raised the question for me. I'm leaning towards the first option but just wanted to double check.
Cheers folks......help a noob out!!