holdenman

Interesting, I thought this was the case by was told it was still a bit high and may have issues with NZ's shit unreliable fuel. But by dropping it to around 7.7:1 it would create some safety. Why the Starfire rods when the Black Motors already have them? I don't plan on running that much boost and will run stock pistons although I have some near new pistons in another engine that was given to me. The springs and lifters would be needed to match the cam specs anyway so that should be ok. That engine is a little way off yet and I need to sell of a bit of gear before that.

LOL, I had thought of that but to me it defeats one of the things that makes webers so special, the noise that emanates via the 6 velocity stacks, it's enough to make grandmothers leap tall buildings in a single bound!

To see the difference and get it ready for my other turbo engine, My current engine is a bit of a test mule that I have run various things on it. I have a couple more engines including a low compression black motor that I plan doing an old school turbo set up using a decompression plate and no ecu.

This is the one I am thinking of trying as it meets future needs for when I turbo my engine. As for price and if it's worth it, hell yeah. My new triple 45 DCOE setup cost more than the Fitech but I do love the sound of them over my current 750 Holley. https://www.staparts.co.nz/View-A-Product/id/27921/Productid/Universal FiTech Go EFI 4 600hp power adder kit black finish

Thanks Truenotch, Harmonics can be very powerful alright but never though of it in the induction system. The Holden 6 doesn't like hanging around 6000rpm because of this reason and I either change just under or quickly go past it, the current engine I would estimate would rev similar to my old one at around 7500rpm but I pucker more as the revs climb and so far only revved to around 6600. The DCOEs will help more than the current 4-barrel.

I reckon I could get all the bits needed apart from an ecu and it would include a wideband 02, TPS and Ignition system for around NZ$2700. The fuel system can be fairly simple, I have a couple pumps and 1 adjustable regulator so mainly hose and fittings. I decided to park this for now as I will get the new triple webers up and running first and I also need to build a new exhaust system

Thats pretty cool, I did read in the FiTech jabber which sort of contradicted itself somewhat, the Fuel commander reduces the need for a return fuel line and that it keeps the fuel cooler while mounted in the engine bay! My 3S-GE powered Starlet doesn't have a return line but my old LC (VK system) used a return line which brings in cooler fuel. The Problem I see though is running an inline 6 with the induction and exhaust on the same side one above the other must increase the chance of heat induction although I have always used heat deflection material like reflectors from industrial lights.

To be fair a CPU can get damn hot at times and I would imagine fuel boiling would happen before or about the same time as a CPU cooked itself and the CPU itself isn't actually doing much running EFI and Spark compared to say a laptop PC or even a phone. Vibration should not effect a solid state circuit. Just saying

Thanks for the good stuff Roman, you have given me more to think about The old Jetronic injection on the black motors gave a squirt per revolution and used a crank pickup but then the std EFI manifold is too restricted to get maximum performance as the terrible casting caused restriction and was totally uneven. Falcon injectors used to be the go for them. I ran VK Injection on my LC and got about the maximum I could from that setup but then went to DCOEs and picked up another 60+HP and way more torque. Until I source everything I am going to run triple webers and maybe progress to EFI later which I may combine it with a turbo. I also need to do some other bits to the car like a LSD and better brakes before I take it to the track.

I am trying to decide on the future induction of my 3.3 Holden engine that runs about 11.5:1 compression with big Ports, Valves and camshaft to match will willingly rev past 7000rpm I tried a 2-barrel then a 500cfm Edelbrock but felt it was a bit down on power so I threw on a 750cfm Holley and it showed huge power gains and that the engine needed more CFM This is where some of you are brilliant in helping the likes of me that only knows about 3.5PSI injection not 60PSI. I can get 45mm ITB's and using velocity stacks but if I understand correctly then I need a basic ECU to run partly off a balance tube, TPS and o2 sensor then a guru to tune it Spark can be run separately or integrated as I run HEI dizzy and Who what how are the questions

Yea good point and when it is to go on a non cross-flow 6 ... maybe the Webers just swung back into the lead

I am seriously thinking of trying one of the options but may need a milder camshaft ? Has anyone had experience with these?

Last weekend

Looking forward to some great pics and videos and they are celebrating 50 years of OSCA I will be going to all 3 days http://www.canterburycarclub.co.nz/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/2020-SKOPE-Saloon-Class-List.pdf http://www.canterburycarclub.co.nz/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Schedule-Skope-2020.pdf

Send a straight pipe vertical, extend it about 3 metres above like a big rig and mabe throw 2-4 coby style rsonators LOL

I don't agree entirely with this as a rule although unsure of the motor in question as many oldschool motors such the Holden sixes are a quiet engine unlike most multi-valve engines. I mention the Holden 6 as it was designed in the 50's, production began in the early 60's and unless it has been worked considerably it doesn't rev very high. Each resonator drops 4dB and more to the point softens the bang. Part No: EXHRESO-3-18 M&H resonator 3.0" x 18" fibreglassed packed exhaust silencer 4db lower spiral louvre core mild steel black finish 18" body , 23.5" total length 4" diamete

Is there a meet this month?

Turbos seem to remove a lot of the harsh bark from the exhaust note but some engines make more noise than others. I think bigger N/A exhausts tend to be loud and echo without much exhaust note but glass packed resonators can help take 'bang' out but of course you need room for the 3" and the muffler/resonator so you may be limited for clearance as if you have 3" under the sill how low is the car going to be or do you scallop the sill? I really like the glass fibre noise limiters as you can have good unrestricted flow and they help make a nicer note with rumble.

No one had used twin system on these for many years so thought I would try it but to get it to sound like the old ones it needs to be a bit smaller, maybe 1 5/8" I made a twin 2" system to try then dropped to single 2" to get my WOF which runs ok considering the primaries are so small but I know I can get better with bigger primaries. Current Primaries are about 32mm but I need 38 to get close to the port size, and make the first 2 collectors 2" then into a 2.5" with no muffler but 1 fibreglass resonator or maybe 2 just to take the sharpness away.

I think I could find my way to this in the VKrak

I will be going down this route again soon on my 3.3 Commy. I had a pair of 2" but was a bit too much bark so will do a single 2.5 soon. The current setup up sounds ok but the primaries are too small as I made a set of 202 headers fit my 12-port 3.3. The 202 headers sound much nicer IMO than the EFI as they take the front 3 into and 1 and rear 3 into 1 with a longish runner before collecting which gives it a nice rumble. I would like to make a custom set with bigger pipe all the way through. I find when the exhaust is slightly smaller it tends to give it the desired rumble in the car but can sound a bit squeezed out the rear. I hope this makes sense? Does this sound any good or do I just go big and loud??