Kimjon

Try the drink bottle trick for a quick experiment. Tape it on in place of filter, drill about 6 holes about 6mm diameter and try it.

This was my final solution. Big plastic container to settle the air, plus restricted flow needed.

I had a cv type carb on a dr200 motor. Only ran well with a drink bottle drilled with a few holes in it (no factory air box). Needed massive restrictions to work properly.

Only the train spotters will notice, but the PX series has a plastic foot mat on the tunnel. I've always had a hard-on for the early wide frames, which have a couple (aluminum with rubber) channels like the floor board has, but on the tunnel as well (no ugly mat). So I've kinda copied the early models, where I reckon they got it right all those years ago.

Pictures say it all. Blasted and epoxy primed...fuck yeah!!

Super happy, such a mint body on this for 63 years old.

I managed to find the period correct guards, so pretty stoked about that.

It's now with my sandblaster...so hopefully I'll get it back in a few weeks time, blasted back to bare metal and primed.

The body is really good on this one and I've been over it with a hammer and dolly, so will only require a minimal amount of body work once I get it back.

Ready for sandblasting now.

All rust removed, excess holes for 63 years of add on and fuckery all filled with metal. A fair amount of pannel beating done, front end was bent out of shape from previous "friendly nudges" its endured over the years.

I re-upholstered the seat, and strengthened some know weak areas in the frame.

Can't wait to get this to a sandblasted.

Got shitloads done lately. Home for 10 days...yay covid!!

Bit of progress made. Small steps, but parts seem to be finding their way to me...

Motor going in. Fingers crossed at this stage.

Then I set it down...gave it one kick and it fired up straight away into life on the first kick...fuck yeah!!

I've put about 100km on it so far. It's got a lot more power than beforehand. I port matched the top end/intakes. Put Boyesen reeds in it and that's about it. Possibly tighter squish, though I never bothered measuring it? But whatever I did, it's working well.

In the meantime I made this:

Pulled together from various parts I managed to collect.

Soooo...my motor blew up.

Crankshaft big end took a shit. So this motor is getting a rebuild with go-fast parts.

And then this thing of beauty - 1962 classic 

I'm in love with this one. So awesome and if it could talk, I'm sure it has some stories to tell...

More vespas 

Needs a little of work, but bones are good.

Fuck yeah, awesome read. Keep up the good work 

Picked this up. Its actually better than it looks, although several items including the headlight have fallen off it in my short period of ownership.

It was rattling and shaking like a bastatd!! So I went through it tightening up the obvious stuff. It's now 90% better...though I think there's a small bag of marbles loose inside the frame.

Now - why would I purchase this, other than for its good looks, you may ask? Well, it sports a pretty wild engine. It started life as a 1977 PX125 Vespa, but now has a 177cc polini kit and port work - making this a very impressive little motor. Pulls hard and is noticeably faster than my other vespas. I think stock the little px125 is about 6hp? These polini kits are getting North of 15hp and it feels it too.

So suffice to say, I'm in love with this little beastie.

Im a little concerned if the bolt ever fatigued it'll drop onto the tyre. But I think it should grab and rip it out clean...???

The wire (which will be retained inside the fender) will also help hold it in place if it did snap and fall down a little, so maybe I'm over thinking it.

I was going to do spot welds, but that could cause alignment issues, as the  bolts don't quite sit square on the inner fender. Think I'll just send it.

Made these (x2) in the lathe. They will hold the fender to the struts. The hole is for the wiring to go through, so its hidden.

Fuck yes!

So if i had a body I wanted to dissolve in my bathtub...how much would I need? *asking for a friend 

@flyingbrickfuck yeah, that would be awesome!! I only need a tiny bit to fill motorcycle battery. Dilution is specific gravity of 1:240 for climates that exceed 25°c and 1:260 for colder.

I can order a hydrometer.

I embarrass myself somedays:

But it works...

I'll try an auto electrician when we get out of lockdown. Hopefully covid doesn't make it into the gangs, or other people who give zero fucks, otherwise this could go on forever...

9 minutes ago, tortron said:

Do you have a hydrometer? No good putting dead acid in a new battery lol

 

 

 

Try here, I see they have 1L

https://hamchem.co.nz/chemical-applications/industrial-chemical/product/battery-acid-1260

Awesomeness, thanks man

I contacted seller...they were no help.

I brought (new) off trademe and hiding in the text of the add was some small print about some batteries coming without acid. FML

Might try tipping some out of an old car battery.

I brought a battery for a vespa, had it couriered to me (due to lockdown) and it arrived dry, no acid.

Says to use dilute sulfuric acid with specific gravity of xxxx??? (can't remember).

Repco/supercheap don't sell it. Google comes up with 20L containers but fuck all else.

Help?