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Kimjon

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Posts posted by Kimjon

  1. ***Update:

     

    Swapped out battery, with a known good one from a mates tractor. Took it for a drive, pretty much same as last time...all good for 10 minutes, then no charge going on.

    So Swapped out alternator...problem gone.

    so it was the alternator that caused all my issues, just as I suspected.

    Cheers Mike - fucking legend for giving me an alternator for free!!

    • Like 8
  2. So I'm pretty sure its a battery issue now. I couldn't start it today 

    145752433_Screenshot_20210710-113517_BatteryMonitor.thumb.jpg.b6e94dd9aead6b910eace63e5fc1836f.jpg

    Even though it was charged to 100% a week ago, and I have a battery cut off switch that disconnects the battery when not in use.

    1037590313_Screenshot_20210710-112918_BatteryMonitor.thumb.jpg.c22e83125f5a4c216c89b4c6ce1133c6.jpg

    Battery shows this now. But prior to trying to start it was something like 95%. So yeah, think battery is fucked.

  3. 2 hours ago, mjrstar said:

    In theory you should still get charge (if the charging system is working) with the engine running if you disconnected the battery and threw it into the bushes. 

    Ah, so the lack charge coming in definitely points towards alternator then eh.

    I found a refurbished one on rock auto for $33+$45 postage. I'll have a think about it, may look at upcoming swap meet too?

  4. Back to the problem. I'm thinking I take it for another run, wait until the charging stops on the Bluetooth app, pull over, test alternator at direct source?

    This should tell me if irs actually the alternator, or if its the battery?

    • Thanks 1
  5. 42 minutes ago, Lord Gruntfuttock said:

    Whoa. Bluetooth battery monitor...? I'm in..

     

    Seriously cool bit of tech. Only $30 off ebay. My main use is for each vehicle I have, with an alarm set at 80% remaining charge. So I sets off an alert for me to hook it upto a charger.

    • Like 3
    • Thanks 1
  6. Here's my story:

    I noticed my car wasn't starting after a 30 minute drive. I'd have to wait until the motor cooled before it would crank.

    I brought a Bluetooth battery monitor and it shows this:

    1164489077_Screenshot_20210702-114906_BatteryMonitor.thumb.jpg.02a762a129dfb50536d551af5aae8fc0.jpg

    1410119374_Screenshot_20210702-123110_BatteryMonitor.thumb.jpg.1ea2ddd1c2d7ad4222d39dd92c8624d9.jpg

    20210702_141219.thumb.jpg.6766dd910f393b5ceb089af05eb05ade.jpg

    Basically the ctek charger brings it to 12.8v give or take. Over a month, when not on the ctek it slowly drops to say 12.6v.

    When I drove it today, it showed initially 15v of charging going on for about 10 minutes. Then it just drops from there on to about 9v as I got home after half hour drive.

    It wouldn't turn over when I stopped it and tried to started it.

    431033476_Screenshot_20210702-124357_BatteryMonitor.thumb.jpg.7f8f3d2d0af78f8e27ef805430460afd.jpg

    So battery seems to not be receiving a charge after 10 minutes?

    Battery problem?

    Alternator problem?

    Other?

     

    Its back on the ctek and looks like its taking a charge okay. So my intuition says Alternator? But im an electrical retard.

     

  7. My new bike was purchased as a roller, with a blown engine. I paid fuck all for it, so all things considered im still very happy with the deal. However its obviously been raided for parts while the dude left it at the Honda shop. 

    Its missing little bits like nuts off swing arm bolts, radiators, a few plastic bits, swing arm spacers, exhaust header, etc etc, probably an icecream container somewhere holding these bits, or maybe been used to fix someone else's bike? I can live with that.

    The blocks that locate the rear axle into the swing arm were missing, so that was today's efforts:

    Resized_20210620_141836.thumb.jpeg.c468f2f1318873b600b97a54f12fa95e.jpeg

    So:

     

    Resized_20210620_134407.thumb.jpeg.f0a2b2534f2f87311716df86080f9197.jpeg

    Resized_20210620_134531.thumb.jpeg.aa8fefb8887b25799ecdda29a2b52d47.jpeg

    Resized_20210620_141217.thumb.jpeg.ed510fab21dc9ea3d71d9fb468db648b.jpeg

    Resized_20210620_141304.thumb.jpeg.6d56b06ee9a00a2f270a20f6166f6037.jpeg

     

    And tadah:

     

    Resized_20210620_141949.thumb.jpeg.ebf0f7bc45292b113a8c0d78f31e727c.jpeg

    • Like 8
  8. I work with cables for supporting structures for a living (yes, laying a cable is a standard joke).

    The rated shackles etc are really cheap. It would be less than $10 to buy a D shackle rated to lift an engine.

    Shaws or Cookes are the 2 biggest companies in nz for this stuff.

    In saying that, the dodgy Chinese chain on most engine cranes would probably be your weakest link. From my own experiences with Chinese made stuff, the ratings painted on the side are mostly fictitious. My engine crane folded and crumpled lifting a mates concrete bathtub. There's no way it exceeded the claimed capacity.

    • Like 2
  9. Then the blue vespa got the same treatment. This too had ample meat on the pads, but the entire front end shuddered under braking.

    20210602_125111.thumb.jpg.f7fbc889732af3951cc50844a84ef321.jpg

    This made a world of difference. Shudder is gone now, smooth as.

    I did an aggressive chamfer on the edges of the pads, I'm not sure if this makes a difference, but the old pads had squared edges and so did the replacements. The chamfer makes sense to me, so I put it on just cause.

    • Like 2
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