Geophy

Bit big dia for gear I have acess to. A machinist with a lathe will do it faster with a 4 jaw chuck. How big is it?

Yeah it is a certain rod not a normal brazing rod. Your welcome to do a couple of joins and see if you can break them I think you will be suprised.

Chequebook solution - Nord lock washer. Quite expensive but way overkill for what its doing. Real good at keeping tension on the head with max viabration. 

Middle solution - Nyloc nut and red loctite. We do this at work for viabrating farm equipment and never have issues with stuff coming apart. Cheap as and good piece of mind.

Bodge level - Max torque and peen the end over with a bfh hammer. If you cant get it off then it cant go anywhere.

Alternative options

Castle nut w split pin

Blue loctite

Tack weld nut in place.

Ill try find the video that compares nord lock compared to other options.

Shit yeah this is mean, bring around some scraps and ill give you a hand. You shouldnt need a pedal even though alot of people use them just use the right amperage and be more fussy on your torch angle. If your keen I have some tig brazing rods ive been wanting to use on a big project.

Hey love your project, housetrucks are something I have had minimal involvement with but have spent a bit of time around trucks is there a reason you couldnt make a steel frame and do a outer skin in 1.2mm Ali? Would be quite cost effective and with some insulation and ply over top would be quite a good insulator? Would be quite a similar design principle to how alot of van conversions work. Has the benefit of all your ali work can be done with a skilsaw it cuts really good.

On 07/06/2021 at 11:32, 87creepin said:

Winter tyres 

 

I'm considering buying a set of 16s with newish Dunlop snow tyres on them, should be alright since I usually only drive morning and night, and theyd only be marginally taller than my current set up?

Any tyre is fine in the dry. If you look around you on your drive to work I can garantee that nobody either way on your communte is running seasonal specific tyres. If they can make it to work fine you can too maybe look at getting decent tyres? Makes way more of a difference then you would think.

Put these on my partners Ae101 in a 175/70R13 and I rate them for a good not horrific priced tyre. Think they were $120ea. Great in the wet we smashed a few ks in it and never had any pucker moments.

https://www.hyperdrive.co.nz/product/4293/michelin-energy-xm2

Couple of weeks? 

Carpool Andrew? Will chuck brakes on the pitty pup for hoons

Chassis plate says LN80? Like the short deck is 1.9 long so long enough but is super manourveable. 

Oh wow didnt realise that was a thing have been using an oiling can with a small tip but couldnt push down and seal at the same time so was relying on gravity to push the oil down. Sweet will hit up ali X.

Gave the AUD a good clean this evening and a wax, has been a good machine although the welder has had to come out a couple of times to build up surfaces when the imperial dials have caught me out. 

On the to do list is retension the adjustable main drive belt and bore out machinery house quick change tool holder to fit. Keen to sort some sort of DRO without making it look horrific.

What are people using to oil the flush sitting grease nipple like fittings? Have been using a oil can but suspect not alot is going in. 

28 minutes ago, ThePog said:

Thankfully she seems to have gone off the idea and is now looking at 10 year old minis *sigh*

Could be worse I suppose.

Gearbox in them are unbelivably slow. @bobby1930 partner had one and used to play a game of shifting into reverse and back to drive while driving. Took so long to respond nothing happened.

Chance of a review of the stainless benda as far as weldability? If they are any good would makes stainless projects much cheaper.

On 13/04/2021 at 11:42, Bling said:

How good would an Aurion be on carbs!?

 

Not very, but it would sound pretty sweet lol.

Rich running carbed Aurion Hybrid so it does keybangers between electric transitions.

Maybe Hybrids are for me

LS430 is comparitively good on gas? Friend dailyed a GS430 Hamilton to Caimbridge and a bit of  town work and was averaging 9.5l 100km. His missus had a Gs350 and she was averaging 7l 100km. To be honest I think you would be trying pretty hard to try make a meaningful fuel consumption difference and whatever you get wont be as nice as the LS. 

To give some context of fuel economy vs towing here is the scores from our current cars.

2014 Ford fiesta 1.0T - avg 5.9L 100km - Tow capacity unbraked 600kg braked 1000kg

1997 Toyota Corolla 1.6- avg 7.5l 100km. Tow capacity unbraked 700kg braked 1300kg.

1993 Toyota Hilux 2.4d 2wd - avg 7.5l 100km. Has no data in car on limits so real life comfotable towing weights. Towing capacity  unbraked 1500kg braked 2700kg.

2014 Nissan Navara - avg 13l 100km. Tow capacity unbraked 1500kg braked 3500kg.

Dunno unless your current car is horrific on gas just slap a towbar on it and enjoy the comfort. Anything will do the job if its only a single axle trailer every so often.

9 hours ago, felixx said:

This is her

Shit yeah I have one of these at home so good. Am going through the process of modifying a quick change toolpost for one of these. Will let you know how it goes males a big difference to your work flow being able to have different tools all set up.

Oh yay tig spam my favourite

Everyones got an opinion but I believe that basic HF Tig are the same as Arc machines. Unless you buy a super cheap import one any machine will do for what you want it to. I roll a 15 year old tool shed HF tig only goes to 150A but 10/10 would trade again. Nothing fancy just controls Amps and post flow but have done everything from rusty panel repairs to multiple pass 10mm plate welds to 5mm production fusing. 

As far as new welders go a friend has 2 basic hugong Tig at his work for panel repairs/chassis fab and rates it highly for temp control etc.

https://www.arcweld.co.nz/itemdetails/Hugong-Powertig-160K-Welder/3726.aspx

Whatever you buy make sure you budget another $200 for some accessories as that is where you get your usability from. Flex head is a must the Aliexpress ones at $12 are identical to the $50 from our welding supplier. I love my gas lense usually roll a 7 cup and am yet yo have a job where I cant push the tungsten out enough to get into tight spot. The generic cup kit off alixpress with the different cups and pyrex lenses is a really good place to start as its cheap and the cups are all really low profile, good combo with the flat back cap for getting into cunty spots. 

Live having different size rods on hands really helps when doing the end of each scale jobs. Thin stainless wire is great for repairing everything and have some 2.4mm steel wire for gapcraft jobs.

Hope this helps.

2 cent Jeff

Slightly biased opinion but nothing beats having a unusually solid single axle trailer. If I was to buy one id go out and push your budget as far as you can buy once cry once. Am all about getting one made locally did one at my last work and it was about 2k excluding labour for a super solid dipped 7x5. Kea trailers are dear but are super solid, would be my pick if I had to buy a new one. My learnings;

- Galvanising is worth its weight in gold.

- Good oversize hubs and big wheels seems to get rid of most of the weak points and minimises things requiring effort at WOF time. Is good peace of mind too people think they only need a light trailer but 1m3 of top soil is roughly 1.5T so good to know at least rhe axle is up to it. 

- Tie down points. More the merrier. Dont forget to have ones lower then the bed for tying down plywood/steel when the tailgate is down. 

- Frame design. Make sure the frame design has either a long A frame or some sort of backbone down it. Alot of home built trailers have some pretty horrific drawbars.

On 06/01/2021 at 19:04, S124AB said:

Assuming both are NZ new, both come with 5 year warranties, 150 k on the Nissan, and 130k on Mitsi, plus Mitsi has a 10 year/160km powertrain warranty.

 

Just be aware the warranty only applies if you do all there reccomended servicing. Make sure she looks at the total breakdown of servicing costs as they will do all your replacements as preventative rather then actually needing attention.

A little something something I made the other day. Is a extra thicc rear sprocket for @chris r Cub. Made a space for the back out of 6mm and machined bore so it aligned the exisiting sprocket. Fits in the NBC rear swingarm by about 1mm haha. 

Thanks for the hand @Beaver.

13 hours ago, MACKAZ said:

Finally towed it into work to acquire WOF. While here executed the weld repairs on the transom. 

They look like crap, but we all know the magic a grinder can do. 

Now let's see if it passes. I found an issue with red light facing forward from the taillight wiring. Black RTV fixed that. 

Meh thats not to be scoffed at, give it a year for it to oxidise and you will never know you have been there.

On 19/12/2020 at 14:18, 63Ragtop said:

Got this drill/mill at work. What can I do with it? Have a couple cutting head things, has not been well looked after. Goes fine.

Aliexpress DRO and use for redrilling PCD in everything. Use it as a drill press that doesnt flex shit loads?

Just now, kyteler said:

Where do you get them?  I've never pferd of em. 

We get them through this crowd. 

https://www.ppsindustries.co.nz/

^Love dealing with these guys for abrasives. The sort of place and say what you need to do and they have the right disk in stock. Actually have stuff in stock as well.