fletch

Tru tests have 3/4 frames and 7/8 forks.

I know a few tru test foamers that will be keen on some wheels

Did some things.

Swapped diff housings to a spare one and rebuilt a 3.9 head to drop the rpms a bit on the highway.

Also a little off the height. Hopefully finished this weekend, but only get a couple nights a week in the shed

On 6/23/2018 at 08:05, Duke Blackwood said:

Hey Chief I've only just glanced over this thread but if you need help with sprockets I operate a waterjet cutting machine and can make custom sprockets... PM me if I can help.

can recommend!

you could also try sprockets.co.nz or something, they do them with the boss on them already. not cheap from memory, but could be the solution for people with no machining hookups

FYI all the people worried about 10a supply.

If you get an inverter welder you will be sweet. Last week at work i tested all of our welders for a long story...

1 was a hugong 200a inverter tig mig stick running off a 20m 10a lead fed from a 16a breaker. 15>10a modded plug.

The welder could not supply over 183a. Plugged it into the board and straight to 200a

200a cigweld all in 1 15a plug on a 30m lead, could not pull over 185a. Removed the lead. Straight to 200a

Etc etc etc.

180a at the tip is a lot of heat!

So get an inverter type welder and either

1 mod the plug -not legit warranty/insurance in a fire

2 buy the adpater with a 10a breaker

3 get your wiring checked and a 15a outlet fitted to an existing outlet

4 get a dedicated 15a outlet and cable fitted.

If your in taranaki i can help with 15a supply for beer money

had one of those diesel burners in my bus in the UK. it was awesome.

used surprisingly little diesel

was german, eberspacher or something like that.

As above, mig for general glueing of all things.

I have a 3 in 1. Worst part is changing bottles to change welding type. 

A couple of fabricators at work run hugong welders from duroweld. They are pretty cheap and have 3 year warranty and have been absolutely flogged with no failures.

1 minute ago, ajg193 said:

They have RUC though, which are a minimum of $6.20 per 100 km. You'd need to be using like 3.5 L/100 km or less to come out ahead

the speedos in older cars can be pretty worn out and not keep up with the actual wheel speed....

8 hours ago, flyingbrick said:

 

or, you could hold the mold outer together with large hose clamps and blow up some sort of bellow/bladder inside the mold to hold the CF out in place (like a piece of inner tube or something)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have a mate that makes things using this method. Aluminium moulds that are polished to death. Lay up the cf on both halves, chuck a bladder inside, bolt together, pump up and chuck in hot box for a time.

Impressive results on a 1m long part

4 hours ago, ~Slideways~ said:

Can anyone tell me the procedure to remove the hydraulic oil from a lift?

EDIT: Just to prevent high pressure oil going into my face.

It has a relief valve and lever, I assume you turn this and it will vent any residual pressure? Then it is just a case of removing the oil line to drain into a a container?

 

Any other things to know? I found the manual online and it doesn't look difficult, but it doesn't actually have a disassembly section.

 

You should be able to remove the arms, and the baseplate cover and the hold down bolts.

'Walk' the legs together. Leave the hoses connected and balance wires.

Back a trailer up to them and lay them down 1 at a time. All the weight is at the bottom so is a 1 man job.

Drag them on the trailer and throw the rest in the back of the car

Lay it down so the oil reservoir is on the top and slip a bit of wood between it and the leg so it cant bounce around and come off the pump.

Assemble in reverse.

There is a grub screw at the top of the rams to let air out and also in the body of the pump. 

Only way to get the oil out is to disconnect the hose and run the pump and squirt into a bucket so dont bother.

On 24/01/2018 at 12:44, Carsnz123 said:

 

Anyone here have experience welding cast aluminium? Was thinking of welding up the combustion chambers of a spare L26 head to bump up the compression. Factory is 8.8:1 and I want 10:1. Skimming it won't yield the results I want. 

See if you can get some 4943 alloy filler rod. Its better than most for alloy heads.

Or get some flat top pistons? 

18 hours ago, Carsnz123 said:

Poor explanation on my part. The cars diff ratio meant you selected 5th at about 80kms and accelerated to 100. Most gearboxes don't like that. Causes premature wear and eventually failure. The amount of noise that box made it was sure to go poof sooner rather than later. 

there are a few other issues that box had. the driveshaft has been lengthened to fit the shorter 5 speed and its a bit too long so is bashing the back of the box a bit.

also we put the wrong oil in it,

also the gears were tired

also LD28 +T!!!! The T means it has all of the torque.

also i think i was @RUNAMUCKdrunk during the rebearing of that box.....

You can get a 3.7lsd head out of japan landed for about 500nz. they come out of the qk30 nissan crew or something ugly like that.

Thanks for the offer, but got it sussed out. Cheers

I have a course at wintec tues-thurs this week. 

Anybody got a couch or spare bed for a couple of nights? 

I can bring beers and many sharns

s14 non turbo rear calipers on hyundai sonata 3L v6 discs fit hilux diff nicely

On 11/17/2017 at 12:48, Roman said:

I've been looking into electric water pumps again, as I think they're an interesting idea. 

(Benefits of fuel economy / power / etc are small or non existent but its something interesting to play with)

So doing some internet nerding, popular pumps are the Davies Craig models. A lot of reported failures and reliability issues, and the suggested setup method is to remove the thermostat and when the engine is below temp it doesnt pump at all. Which is dumb for getting coolant hot spots in the motor and I've seen people at trackdays have problems with these for this reason.

DC gave one of their pumps to autospeed.com to test, and the test results somehow indicated that the pump was garbage, and DC threatened legal action towards autospeed if they published the artcles. Interesting! There's no further clarification on test results obviously, but not a good sign.

So digging a little deeper it looks like even if the DC pumps do flow at their specified rate it's way lower than what a mechanical pump achieves.

Sooo bit more digging and a 3rd gen prius with the hybrid iteration of the 2ZZ engine (I considered a 2ZZ) has an EWP from factory. 

As it turns out, its a big fucker and it needs to run on the 49(?) volt system rather than 12.
So not much chance of retrofitting one to a 12v system, and it seems an indicator that a 12v system probably isnt great for EWP.
Also hints at the flow rate of the DC pumps when they only draw 6 amps or whatever at 12v.

Conclusion: I'm fine with a mechanical water pump haha.

 

On 11/17/2017 at 15:11, Firetruck said:

If I were to do an EWP (ignoring reliability issues) I'd build an adaptor that bolts to the factory pump location with water inlets / outlets to the pump. That way it can use the factory thermostat / bypass system and then should function similar to factory.

we have been running DC pumps on our speedway cars for years. Always with a thermostat and proper bypass. the pumps are on flat out all the time

We only had issues when we hard mounted the pump onto the end of the block and the vibration at 10,000+ caused the wires inside the pump to snap. happened 3 times in 2 meetings before we moved the pump and have had no problems since.

the controllers they make are just pwm controllers that slow the pump when its cold so like Dave said, its bad for ya motor

On 10/17/2017 at 23:21, Sambo said:

How do you choose a base jet size to start from? Just picked up a 32/36 from a kindly chap on here, which was on an A12 or A14 or something. I'm guessing that it'll need bigger jets to suit my Z24.

Would 135/140 be a good starting point for a 2.4L, low compression, low rpm engine?

have you got it going yet? i have one of these that was on a running l28 that you can have. is corroded a bit, but the jets might be close?

3 hours ago, Kimjon said:

I may have a "plus one" keen to tag along. But neither of us are really set up for the dirt, as the reality of how stupidly low our  bikes are hits home.

sounds like you are perfectly set up then

cant come this year unfortunately.

my shoulder has just come right so i was keen to put my engine mods and tyres to the test

Between 25 and 35 i think.

51 minutes ago, vivaspeed said:

Is that your shed up the back of your old house?  Get a chain trencher and drop some neutral screen cable in the ground.  Best in the long run.

Can do hookups for good pricing.

Yea dont fuck about with a generator for that distance. 

Bit of 16mm NS. Pretty sure you can get led indoor tomato lights now. Dont use much power at all...

Been looking into generators myself for a variety of reasons. 

Always a few diesel semi commercial spec used ones on tm.

Probably buy a 10-20 kva one complete on a skid for 5k.

Mind you of they only idling then not that great on the motor. Having said that, we have a 60kva one that has been idling for over 2 years non stop running some lights and a small compressor and aside from a but of smoke its still humming

How far is  your shed from power?

7 hours ago, Roman said:

In other news, 

Our Toyota Crown is currently running a carb 5M (I think its a 5M anyway) 
Have decided to just chuck the engine and all associated EFI gear from the spare soarer shell into it, so EFI 5M or 6M instead.
Thinking it'll be fun to run a megasquirt or similar on it, for a 6 cyl engine what is the cheapest megasquirt setup that can:

-Run injection on a 6 cyl engine batch firing injectors in pairs at max? 
-Any complications with running an auto box from an early 80s EFI car? 
-Capable of closed loop lambda correction
-Will I have any weird complications with triggers or whatever for this sort of engine? Not really keen to make new trigger wheels etc if I can help it.

Suggestions ahoy / should I just stick with the devil I know and get a G4+ Atom or similar.

A lot of thise early 80s autos had an independent ecu for the trans. 

If your converting from carb its not like the engine is going to have any less electronic wizardy 

Looks like k-series 

Should be ok to squeeze the sides of the kink and bend it back straight, or a little straighter so it works ok.