pbaines

More good progress. Shell is now 100% rust free! what a mission...

 

Anyway. I got the wire brush wheel out on the boot and expected holes for africa, just surface rust for africa so I was pleased

 

After attacking it i gave it some epoxy

 

Next came the front panel section at the end of the chassis rail. looks the same as the original repair except this time I will actually seam seal the edges on the chassis rail so no water can get in there... no point repairing it if you aren't going to do it properly!
Tack




Weld:

 

I thought I would just spot weld the holes but sort of didn't realise how thin the steel was. None the less, the holes are no more


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Now the hardest section I have been putting off. It wasn't too hard in the end, just took a bit of time. I also should have used a press for all of this, but. I don't have one! 

Step One: Plan

Step Two: Tack

Step Three: Plan some more

Step four: Weld
*imagine pic*

Step Five: Grind off welds 

 

Rinse and repeat

Step One: Plan

Step Two: Plan some more


Step Three: Fiddle around with cutting your new piece up to fit whilst realising you should have done the whole front piece from scratch but then not give up because who wants to then realise they've wasted 3 hours

Step Four: Weld

Step Five: Prettify

 

Then I attacked the rear boot lip and welded on a nice new one. doesn't have to be clean as possible, the boot rubber will go over it

 

There was a massive hole here.. don't think I have a photo. Will get the Dremel out and fix the half circle there. otherwise it's sweet

Rear left section that needed doing

This probably looks quite ugly but when I epoxy it it will look good. Very happy with how this section came out with 3 curves I had to compensate for when folding up the cut

 

Before:

After:
Much better!

 

Discussion:
https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/56136-pbaines-1977-toyota-corolla-ke30/

 

 

So it begins.

 

I bought this here new old welder off tardme for $350 shipped and went and got some gas for it. Turns out it has a 'spot' function too which is cool, makes the welds a lot more consistent, not that it makes my work look any better... been a few years since I have been working with the gun.

 

I began by making all of my cuts that I needed and sprayed in some rust kill sealer on the underside where I could

 

Water had gone into the roof and then down the A pillar so had completely rotted this section away

 

Tacked them in

 

I don't think this would have been nice on a rainy day....

 

Welded them in!

 

The corner section of the roof was challenging as it was a 3 skin section but I think it's turned out pretty well in the end, overall very happy with the look of it all
That's it for the body cuts, may have a few holes I need to fill but other than that, it's looking pretty good. Minimal warping on the new areas, not the biggest worry as I need to bog skim the entire roof anyways....
Will head into town next week and purchase the filler primer and boggy and will make start on the rest. I need to do the doors at some point too, theres minor minor rust holes in those so should all be ok

 

 

Discussion:

https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/56136-pbaines-1977-toyota-corolla-ke30/

 

Been a while, but uber keen to crack into this over christmas break. Have taken 3 weeks off so I hope that I can get a shit load of work done to her!

A weekend ago I rustcoverted the engine bay after taking it 99% back to baremetal

It did go to a proper black even though it's quite blue in this photo

Then since I had left it bare for so long and the car was a mess, i took it outside and blew all the crap out of it and vacuumed the floor. There is 0% rust on the floor at all so skeptical if I should even remove the sound deadening stuff.... but none the less I cracked on. I got the grinder out with the flappy scratchy thing to take back the rust but to be safe at the end I did the old vinegar-water rust killer trick.
Mixing Water:Vinegar @ 4:1 ratio I scotch brite'd the whole car where it was bare metal and let it sit for a bit, came back to this beautiful orange

 

Then It looked like this, so I went over it once more till i didn't see an orange speckle anywhere using 100% water and drying off with handee-towels.

 

With two cans of epoxy sealer/primer at the ready and letting the car sit in the 29degree sun for 5 minutes just to give it a bit of warmth I rolled her back in the shed, tacked the car off and then layered the goods on (while do one more two can coat and then use my gun to lay on the primer)

                                                                              

And then it was time to drop her in!

 

Installed the 230mm clutch and flywheel assembly. Had to grind out the T50 bell housing so that everything could fit in nicely. Took half a day to do it.... enough meat to hold it all together I hope!!

 

 

Extended pilot bearing that came with the SQ-Engineering conversion kit

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Super easy to lock up the flywheel ready for torque

 

 

The goods go on.

 

 

Pilot bearing has plenty of insertion

 

 

 

Starting to look like a car again.

 

 

Discussion

https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/49929-pbaines-1985-ae86-corolla-levin/

 

Today, I installed a clutch, and dropped the old girl in.

Finally! I also installed the missing headlight bracket as it is different for the corolla vs trueno. It's taking shape now!

 

Next will be getting the diff shortened.

 

For the yarns

https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/52401-pbaines-1971-toyota-corolla-ke25/

 

Ahh. So i made a bit of a large cock up.
The cams were far too big for the original pistons, the valve reliefs were to small  and when I was dialing in the cams the lobe was hitting the piston by a long shot. Instead of crying about it, I ordered some 82mm (2mm oversized) 12.5:1 compression pistons from Barry at MRP. Took my spare 7-rib block in to the machinists and got that block bored, cleaned and decked also. All is not lost with the other block, I will be using that in my AE86.

I put some new frost plugs in the new block and gave it a blase of semi-gloss paint

 

 

Whipped the head off of the old block

 

 

Removed everything as it was instead of dismantling it (take pulley -> timing sprocket -> oil pump off, all to put it back on again)

 

Went over to the NEW block, gapped the rings and dumped the goods in. Much better

 

 

 

I set about to degree the cams, this time. No fowling on anything!

 

Reconned alternator which is an 80A one

 

It's nice  to work on an engine and still have clean hands at the end of it. new bits e'ry where.

 

So that's that for now, I will be installing the clutch and then putting it into the car next. Excited

 

 

So, lesson. Do more research before completing an engine rebuild so you don't have to take all apart again.

 

Talky talky.

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/52401-pbaines-1971-toyota-corolla-ke25/#comment-1679349

 

Today was a good day!

 

I got my head back from Barry at MRP. Here are some photos he sent me of the head. No need to take my own.

 

 

 

 

 

The head had to have some extra work done on it so that the 10mm+ lift cams were able to rotate without hitting anything.

 

 

With receiving my head I also received the last few gaskets and bolts that I was after. Especially for the intake side of things so I could get these beauties bollted together.

 

 

I installed the front input shaft seal, the output shaft seal, and also the spacer ring between the box and the input shaft that I forgot to install first time round.

 

Nice new slave cylinder

 

I am using OEM head studs so I have used the Toyota torque specs, so need to do the +90 +90. I just did it by eye with my last engine, decided to do it properly this time round.

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Fastforward an hour of fiddling around I got everything bolted together. I am still waiting on some new shims to arrive from Australia so I will have to wait a little bit before I can install the cams etc.

 

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With that, not long to go before i drop it down the guts into the KE25 and can finally start on another task. I am thinking diff shortening next. Hopefully less expensive than this engine!

 

 

Discussion

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/52401-pbaines-1971-toyota-corolla-ke25/

 

Ah, the culprit to all of the roof woes!! I wondered what the knife marks were around the fuel cap, the roof use to have one of those vinyl covers on top of it. I haven't ever seen one of those come out good after 30 years. they all have a mountain of orange metal under them.

 

I was about to start the front cowl but underneath it was a rusty river so it all has to come off. I drilled these welds out with a drill but have gone and bought a spot drill bit online as I guess it is good to do things properly! I shall resume with the cowl removal on Friday.
As you can see, good I removed these. rusty as, and would hate to think how much is under other panels like this.

 

I finished off some more of the body, overall quite happy with the rear end, a couple of dents but all very easy fixes and over it's very straight so that's a bonus.

 

Duscussion:
//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/56136-pbaines-1977-toyota-corolla-ke30/