pbaines

Getting picked up this weekend to be stripped.
Car will be entirely media blasted to bare metal
Car will be off for full panel work resto in July. Will see what the blasting yields!

March 29

Car has been delivered!

Currently organising it to be stripped and off to panel/paint/repair cert so hopefully have some updates in the coming few months.

February 29

Replaced oil pump with other unit I have with the SQ Engineering additional relief valve spring setup to bump up the pressure, we seem to be good! If that still doesn't give me good pressure at all times i'll flick the cam caps off and have a measure up
New Speedo drive is in so I've now got a work speedo

Think that's it really, time for cert?

Bumper is back and looking absolutely insane if you compare to what it was previously!

February 21

Back in the country means back in to work on the ol' 86.

Firstly, the time has come to get the front bumper repaired. So, off it came and off it went.
The plan is just to make it structurally sound again, I think there are too many hairline cracks to warrant a full resto on it. If it's structurally sound and painted, i'm a happy man.

The bro's cracked in to it!

When i've previously removed the dash, i found it not possible to take out the dash clock surround without breaking it into 30 pieces. This has been an eye sore for years and luckily toyota still make them new

Next was to install the JSP coolant overflow/oil catch can combo unit. 10x better than the previous solution. I will hook it back up to breathing back to the engine, I just need to acquire a -10 120 Degree fitting so that it can point down to the ground a bit more as using a 90 degree will make it hit the bonnet

Turbo water lines installed.

I need to order another -6 90 degree bend fitting as I didn't order enough, luckily I had a -4 premade hose sitting about which works fine, but it's 90 Degree to straight end hence the U bend to where it connects to the back of the head. This will be resolved shortly!

Tidied up the NASA heat shield for the overflow bottle, I will get a beanie at some point for the turbo but hopefully this is sufficient for the interim. I've also misplaced some U Channel moulding I was going to install around the folded edge of it so that it wouldn't be possible to cut into the rubber line to the windscreen jets. it'll turn up..

Clean!

Gave the interior a clean, still need to address the small rip on the drivers side seat..

I've always wondered where the handbrake light loom was situated in the car, I assumed that it was just that I was missing the wires and it never had them. Turned out in my spares box I had the spare loom, plugged it in and we now have a light. something that isn't that helpful just good small win

For 10 years i've put up with using a wooden stick to hold the hatch up. FLOS.ie have new gas struts so in they went. much satisfaction

TODO:
- Replace oil pump. I'm having lower oil pressure at higher RPM's than I'd like (with a rebuilt bottom end), so i've got a spare oil pump which has the SQEngineering pressure up spring unit to hopefully address that. If that doesn't resolve the issue i'll be getting plasti gage out to measure the cam cap tolerances as I can't think where else I would be losing pressure the way that it is.
- Recheck pinion angle since the 15" rims and slight height differences to bring back to 1.5 degrees both sides
- Pull out gearbox to replace the output shaft speedometer worm drive. The plastic gear for on the speedo output is stripped, and without knowing what the worm drive it suits, better to pull it apart and replace it with the correct stuff which I now have.
- Maybe try cert?

January 22

Pics from the port in Kobe!

All looks good, appears that the owner that flipped the car put new tyres on it which is a bonus.
Due to leave Japan this week

Two gremlins to note:
- Car looks to be started up in the images as rev gauge shows 1500 rpm however the charge light is on..
- From photos I've just noticed that the chassis plate is also not in the engine bay. I hope this isn't an issue come VIN time, hopefully the TE27-XXXXX stamp on the firewall is ok on its own?

January 14

The last few months I've been looking through the USS Auctions in Japan, bid on a few TE27's.
Funnily enough, I bid on one particular TE27 in October. Lost it to someone. The buyer must have been doing a buy and sell flip for some quick money as it came back up for auction the following weeks but with the reserve higher so I wasn't successful.
Come the new year, they dropped down their reserve and I was able to nab it for a reasonable cost!

The plan is to swap all of the good stuff out of the KE25 I have to it, and flick the KE25 off. If you're looking to purchase the KE25 project below get in touch.
https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/52400-pbaines-1971-toyota-corolla-ke25/

Photos from inspection.
- Interior is average which is perfect because I have a great interior in my KE25 to get goods from
- Underside has some rust, especially in the sills. But for a car this age, can you really be surprised? No stress to be honest. the rest of the car looks like a great base for a resto.

More to come at a later date.

20231116_121909_copy_2000x1126 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

20231116_122016_copy_2000x1126 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

20231116_122315_copy_2000x1126 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

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20231116_121912_copy_2000x1126 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

20231116_121910_copy_2000x1126 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

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20231116_122029(0)_copy_2000x1126 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

20231116_122028_copy_2000x1126 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

20231116_122025_copy_2000x1126 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

20231116_122007_copy_2000x1126 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

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20231116_122321_copy_2000x1126 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

Discussion thread:

January 14

Discussion thread for all things TE27.

Build thread: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/88987-pbaines-1973-te27-sprinter-trueno/

December 15, 2023

2 minutes ago, Rhyscar said:

Hey Phil, looking over your ideas for brake upgrade. Where did you find that booster? Is it NOS or from another model?

Might be keen to upgrade to boosted brakes in the rally car one day. Thanks

Hey man!

It is from flos.ie, there will be a toyota oem new option but the guys at flos.ie have done the groundwork
https://flos.ie/shop/brake-booster-ae86/?v=3e8d115eb4b3

December 13, 2023

On 25/11/2023 at 22:19, Disraeli said:

Really nice work Phil. I stumbled onto this project as well as your AE86 recently and have been soaking them up.

I'm working on the brakes for my KE70 project at the moment and am looking to use a similar setup to what you have described (Mine will have AE111 twin-pot front disc brakes on AE86 struts and AE101 single pot rear disc brakes on an F-Series rear diff). Question regarding the ST202/205 components:

- The brake schematic you referenced shows two separate hard-lines from the proportioning valve to the rear for the front/rear diagonal split. Would you run the two hard-lines to the rear into two separate rubber flexi-lines from the chassis to the diff housing, and then to the LH and RH rear brakes to retain this diagonal split?

-Or would you just tee the two separate hardlines from the proportioning valve outlets into one hardline at the engine bay end, and then run the single hardline to the rear to a single rubber flexi-line and split them off to hardlines on the diff like a conventional set-up? This method would remove any ability for a diagonal split.

I've just not been able to find any set-ups that show two rubber flexi-lines at the rear from the chassis to the diff housing when running this sort of front-rear diagonal split in a RWD application. Engage head-scratching mode and cheers in advance for any thoughts.

Mike.

Apologies for the delayed response I missed seeing this drop into my inbox!

The brake schematic does show two separate hard-lines to the rear, the proportioning valve has 2 outputs for this and if I were to use this valve I would follow the same plumbing as outlined with the schematics diagram as it would have been in the Celica that way.
To be able to achieve this, you'd only need to bend up a bracket or go and cut one off of a car at pick-a-part and have that stitched onto the chassis so that it supports 2 flexi lines instead of the one where the one is stitched onto the chassis at the rear already.

But, I'm impulsive and a few days later after purchasing the prop valve i've gone with the adjustable willwood prop valve. I figured that it would be better to be able to tune things properly and have it set correctly from the get-go. It will also clean up the dual line to the rear (not that that was something I thought would have been too difficult to resolve!
https://stealthride.co.nz/products/wb260-13190

December 13, 2023

Black Friday was a busy day for purchases, most have arrived.

Returning back from Canada in February for a month and will probably take a day just to sift through all the boxes of goods.

From Flos.ie:
T50 Rebuild kit - includes bearings and syncro's
AE86 rear caliper rebuild kit
x2 toyota bolt kits for 4A-GE and AE86. handy to have
AE86 axle gasket and seal kit

From jspfab.com
4A-GE billet alternator mount
4A-Ge Small port billet fuel rail

From battlegarage-rs.com:
AE86 radiator support grommets (will need to fab up some bottom radiator mounts for the chassis(
AE86 reproduction handbrake cables (hopefully these are fairly bolt in...)
AE86 front wheel bearing kit

From RockAuto.com:
outer/inner tie rod ends
lower/upper radiator hoses
master cylinder to suit TE27
T50 chassis rubber mount
U-Joints (may or may not work, but for $20 a pop they went in the cart)
AE86 Slave cylinder
AE86 diff wheel bearings

From eBay:
Full weather strip seal kit, doors, front/rear windscreen and also the quarter glass
KE2X front suspension full bushing kit (LCA, RCA, Sway bar etc)
KE2X rear leaf spring rubbers

From aeroflow:
Full brake line components to do the lines from scratch for the car. The plan is do internally do the hardlines and keep as much out of the engine bay as possible. What a list of parts that took to do

20231123_133812 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

20231129_114049 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

20231130_115850 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

369614281_265637686127074_8864140772265512620_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr

371525757_1390195848577597_8157815245025420762_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr

384562657_368923975694554_5263749068142941737_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr

404957639_398279992532980_7428382900749870146_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr

385545074_365483589195832_2746782362506946816_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr

Picked up a set of volk mesh 6.5" wheels, could possibly look to relip 2 for the rear to make a bit wider but think i'll flick a pair and then try nab a pair of 8" wheels from Japan. I need to fit the diff first though and see what i can actually squeeze under there
i-img900x1200-17008152302pqs6m7 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

Also a set of advan mesh 6" wheels
i-img1200x1124-1700185932wnwzz22418398 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

alt by phillipbaines, on Flickr

rail by phillipbaines, on Flickr

That will be all for now. more to come in February when i'm back in New Zealand

Discussion:

November 16, 2023

5 hours ago, AE25 said:

Great to see this continued. soo many nice parts acquired!

Are you doing a twinpot front brake? Because not so sure that celica brake master is the right choice if you havent also upsized the caliper piston area larger than ae86? 86 has 13/16" master. ST2 Celica is 15/16 or 1"? May find the brake pedal too hard especially with the downsized booster.

Thanks!

The ST2 uses a 15/16 master, and yup will be going with a twinpot willwood dynapro front, and factory AE86 rear single pot for the rears.

It'll be a trial and error sort of scenario.

November 14, 2023

It's been 6 measly years.

Progress has been slow. I prioritised the AE86 for a few years which is now a rocket so time to get back in to this. I've also moved to Canada but will be back in a few years, nice to collect parts until then.
The rust is probably what terrifies me the most, lots to do. Lots to pay for.

As i've been going for a KE20 Sprinter, more than a TE27 Sprinter, the parts are a little different.

For e.g

The guards I have are KE20 Sprinter, not TE27 sprinter hence the lack of stock fender flares.
The lower trim which runs from the fender to the rear quarter is 2x as thick as the normal corolla ones (only came on the KE25 Sprinter). I managed to track down a full set of these trims and probably paid something stoopid but in the 6 years i've been collecting additional parts I've only come across these particular trims this one time
The TE2X Sedan and Coupe have different grills, i've got a NOS sedan TE20 Grill as well as the TE27 Coupe one however am still unsure which i'll run

Anyway, some photos:

10/10 center wood grain dash unit with functional radio
center by phillipbaines, on Flickr

10/10 Center console
console by phillipbaines, on Flickr

Some center console additional pieces - I have no idea where they go but hopefully is easy to work out once assembly time comes
console by phillipbaines, on Flickr

NOS TE20 Sedan grill - Again, unsure if i'll run this. the TE27 one does look better
grill by phillipbaines, on Flickr

Non rusted out TE2X grill support panel
grill_2 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

TE27 right light, as well as the Sprinter center trim between lights (can't find a pic but it's in the hoard somewhere)
light by phillipbaines, on Flickr

TE27 LCA's and knuckles to allow bolt on AE86 struts
20231114_120517 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

A badge I thought was cool - SL, 5 speed, 1600
boot_badge by phillipbaines, on Flickr

a pair of fender mirrors.
368365377_305562675646217_4171977721123825346_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr

These were just cool. they may or may not be fitted to the coupe
mud_flaps by phillipbaines, on Flickr

A sprinter steering wheel center horn button to replace the corolla one
horn by phillipbaines, on Flickr

For the fuel upgrade i've found a retrofit drop in setup, which allows for 16" deep fuel tanks and luckily enough the KE25 fuel tank is there or there abouts, atleast deep enough for this to work.
Here's an install vid if anyone is interested: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-ZrisobLYs
And if you want to purchase one, here's a link too: https://fitechefi.com/product/50014-go-fuel-in-tank-fuel-pump-600-hp-module/
fuel_pump by phillipbaines, on Flickr

Because the T50 from an AE86 uses a rear position shifter, it won't be correct once installed to work nicely with the center console. I've purchased a forward position T50 to steal the insides out of, and hopefully swap bits over to make the AE86 T50 accept the forward position shifter (fyi not using this forward position one because it's seized. only got it for the shifting components)
T50 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

Brake time.
Acquired a TE27 pedal box which has the additional hydraulic clutch mount so all nice and easy
pedal_box by phillipbaines, on Flickr

After some research bolt in upgrade parts were available.
small AE86 booster
booster by phillipbaines, on Flickr

Rip the ST205 WRC GT4 Celica master cylinder off this, slap it on above booster
master by phillipbaines, on Flickr

Use proportioning valve from ST202 celica suitable for twin pot front brakes, single pot rear breaks
prop_valve by phillipbaines, on Flickr

And it should look something like this
252170_4708_0002 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

Discussion:

February 15, 2023

Not been able to do too much on this over the last wee while.

I do still really need to get the bumper fixed and repainted. It really throws off the look off the car and make it looks a bit rougher than it is!

Something that was still bothering me was the clutch slip at 20psi... I had a mate ask me if he knew of anyone looking for a tilton twin plate clutch setup (less discs) so I thought, bugger it. Me!
Acquired some springless clutch centers from Barry Manon at MRP. This car won't see much town driving, it's meant to be a fun car so know that a clutch with no springs is not fun. Anyway, the setup looks similar to this:
clutch by phillipbaines, on Flickr

I had a weekend with nothing on and woke up and felt like removing the W55 from the AE86 would be a good idea. I'd mentally prepared myself for a frustrating day which is exactly what I had but it all went well in the end!
new flywheel installed
20230205_123632 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

I'm a numpty and didn't take a proper after photo (probably due to the amount of fun I wasn't having) so here's one of me checking that the spline is aligned between the clutches properly. The first time I tried I didn't get success so it had to all come off and go back on. Anyway, that was done. hooray.
20230205_132927 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

I've also grown up since I was 21. 7 years later i've come to the realisation that low boy life, is not fun. It's annoying. I don't like going sideways over speed humps, and I don't like losing exhaust v-bands on 100km'h roads 15 minutes in to a journey. So i got a pair of 15 x 8's (something like -25 for the rear, +10 ish for the front. can't remember) paired with a set of Nankang AR1's.
I had this thing at Manfield for a bit of a bash a few months ago, the Toyo T1R's were definitely not up to the task of keeping rubber in tact coming out of the corners leaving me pretty unconfident to push it too much

So, tyres/wheels on. Ride height increased by 10mm

20230206_132902 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

20230206_132918 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

20230204_174851 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

So, done for now. Took it for a drive. adjusted the clutch pedal, clutch is actually fine to use and didn't find it too terrible. Just need to downshift on gears which is easy enough!

TODO (more for me to remember):
- Adjust pinion angle
- Acquire adjustable lower arms for diff
- Fix bumper

- One day: Find some 15 x 8 long champs in perfect offset. This is a low priority but they just look so lush on longchamps

Discuss:

January 19, 2023

9 minutes ago, shizzl said:

List confirms that it is an early 83-87 hap ae86 ecu and grey 2ohm 182cc injectors

Perfect. No resister needed, bang straight into the ecu (add a 10amp fuse) to the fuel injector 12v wire for safety and bobs your uncle.

Depending on how your loom works those early ECU's have a 'safety' relay which powers the injector positive side. Just switch the source to the black/red line for that (which is the power side of the EFI relay, goes to Fuel Pump relay, Coil and ECU) if you have any issues instead of having the unnecessary other odd relay they use, switch it over.

January 19, 2023

On 17/01/2023 at 17:49, shizzl said:

If thats the case it would save my arse..

Have been searching everywhere for a suitable resistor, got lots of resistance, but no luck

Have a look through your list and confirm what ECU you have

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/archive/index.php/t-37785.html

Here's a list of the 4A-GE injectors too with resistance checks etc
http://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/A_Series/Injectors

Happy to help you with any q's on what works with what

January 17, 2023

If you have the gray square stock injectors and an early big port ECU you don't need to run the ballast resisters.

Only the AE92 pink ones run the resisters

August 14, 2022

Small update

She's running well! Only small issue I had was losing a v-band on the exhaust and limping back home petrified I was going to destroy the zaust... To remedy this I'll be going 15" wheels and raise it a bit higher. I'll get it certed for both but it'll be nice having a bit of extra clearance under the floor so speed bumps and pot holes aren't so terrifying

Last weekend was 86 Day so I took her out and caught up with Glenn from Syndicate Fabriation as well as GC Troy Brown down at Manfield
20220806_122622 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

I was running AE86 heater hoses with one AE85 heater hose (no idea where my other went...) which had a joiner and then another section going to the core. this wasn't ideal as the hoses weren't correct and were hard to shape around to sit against the firewall especially since the cam cover breathers shoot out the back too.
New ones were bought from Toyota Japan at a very reasonable price + new hoses = nice
20220805_215954 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

A recent browse on Yahoo Auctions lead me to some NOS Levin Quarter shades. They sit inside the car and sort of clip behind the rear door cards and the C pillar trim piece, they're snug and look goooood
20220813_152018 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

20220813_153828 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

After some thought I didn't like the idea of the rocker breathers being directly horizonal out of the cam covers. In my mind, I foresee a bit of oil splash and oil seeping down the lines which shouldn't really happen. I purchases some 90 degree fittings in silver to retain the cam cover Ali vibes and rotated the -10 fitting line 45 degrees so now in theory oil shouldn't burst upwards. Don't know. it eases my mind anyways
20220814_145551 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

I hadn't installed the window washer reservoir since the turbo install thinking it would probably melt away. I finally got around to making a NASA spec heatshield capable of handling all that choo-choo heat
20220814_145600 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

20220814_145616 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

I'd like to think all I need to do before cert is make a battery box to sit under the passenger seat so the battery is actually secure but there will likely be 10 other things i'll think i'll need to do by that time.
Anywho, here she is for now
20220814_145538 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

April 13, 2022

Post a few weeks, driven it a few times and oh lordy. once the boost kicks in it's an absolute rocket. Definitely looking forward to driving this around more post cert

Time to reset and get some of the small issues resolved
Glenn at Syndicate Fabrication on the tools this week geting these issues sorted for me

I always had an issue where the o-ring would leak fuel out of the fuel rail so definitely wanted to move to a welded bung either side to save me the stress of thinking I was dripping fuel out leading to a kaboom under the hood

Then it was time to get the oil filter relocation sorted:

One full hand worth of space (i'll still get a plate made up to go over it in case of giant stones)

The hole for the oil lines will be filled with something similar to this to help clean it up a bit:
https://www.mnpctech.com/products/pc-cable-grommet-large?_pos=2&_sid=21c8d58cb&_ss=r&fbclid=IwAR0vvx0Esgd0kWQ9Wu75g8tsqxPeL1_BoJuKxpY8nZG8PoZhAJKR30qFDrg

Will be attacking the oil catch can recirculating into the turbo + driveshaft hoop next

March 16, 2022

I have news. Very good news:

233kw @ 15psi
265kw @ 20psi (with clutch slip)

IMG_20220316_172725 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

IMG_20220316_172728 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

I'd like to thank Geoff at NZ Wiring and Performance for an EPIC job on the wiring (https://www.facebook.com/nzwiring)
And Chris at Prestige Motorsport for the tune. Both are super good dudes and I couldn't recommend them enough! (https://www.facebook.com/prestigetuningnz)

The turbo as some of you may have noticed is a tad too large, boost is after 5k but to be honest I don't think I mind that. The gearing on this car with the small rotating diameter wheel/tyre combo means i'll drop it down a gear and it'll be sweet.
I'll change a few things over and sort a few final jobs out and come back for another tune up with Chris to see how it goes. But for now i'm stooooked.

March 15, 2022

I've finally got my A into G and gotten the old girl down for wiring and tuning! (with NZ Wiring & Performance / Prestige Motorsport)

Finished the small jobs in the post above, loaded her up on a very dusty Sunday and brought her down to Wellington
It doesn't go anywhere with a front bumper on so that had to come off...

20220227_115704 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

Screenshot_20220310-184638_Instagram by phillipbaines, on Flickr

Screenshot_20220311-122351_Facebook by phillipbaines, on Flickr

Screenshot_20220311-170709_Instagram by phillipbaines, on Flickr

Screenshot_20220311-175955_Facebook by phillipbaines, on Flickr

Whilst loading the car on to the trailer I managed to break the exhaust flexi so had to get a new one put on whilst it was in... very niggly

Screenshot_20220315-122223_Instagram by phillipbaines, on Flickr

Also an oversight, the ISCV (Idle Speed Control Valve) needed to be plumbed back in to the intercooler piping otherwise it'd be a boost leak so that was insightful.

Screenshot_20220315-122231_Instagram by phillipbaines, on Flickr

Screenshot_20220315-180838_Instagram by phillipbaines, on Flickr

Screenshot_20220315-180842_Instagram by phillipbaines, on Flickr

Hopefully have some news on tuning by the end of the week, hoping for no issues on the base map start up.. always nerve racking

November 11, 2021

It's been an unproductive few months whilst I mull around and not get a chance to drive to Palmy to get to work on the old girl

A while ago I bought one of those weld-on idle control valves and got one of my mates to apply glue to the MRP manifold, it's come out really nice
20210815_113119 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

20210815_113412 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

I spent a weekend going over everything.
- Made the AN lines for the catch can setup
- Disassemble the turbo and clean out all the crud left over from when the manifold face was machined
- Heat wrap the exhaust manifold and down pipe (i didn't take a photo... idiot)
- Ran the vacuum lines for the turbo
- Refitted the Intake Manifold
- Tighten every bolt

20211023_180622 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

20211023_180752 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

20211025_150642 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

20211025_150655 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

20211025_150703 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

I've messaged Geoff at NZ Wiring and Performance and looking to get this bad boy wired end of January hopefully!

This will give me time to:
- Replace the fuel hose from the fuel rail to the supply line (it's not fuel hose and it's all perished...)
- Replace the fuel filter
- Check the driveline angles since the gearbox crossmember was recreated and ensure that we've got around 2 degree's each side of the driveshaft for a smooth ride. will space the crossmember or adjust the top 4-links, which ever requires a tinkering
- Finish the vaccuum line for the master cylinder booster

Discussion:

November 11, 2021

Discussion thread for the poor mans ferarri

November 11, 2021

Picked it up, took it home. Then retired back down to Wellington.
20211106_153031 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

20211106_153045 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

20211106_153105 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

20211106_153117 by phillipbaines, on Flickr

Next on the todo list:
- Tidy up all the panel gaps #1 priority
- Purchase an MRP coil over kit all round
- Purchase some semi slicks
- Get a wheel alignment
- Replace inner and outer rack ends

Potentially on the todo list:
- Price up a full suspension kit minus coil overs from T3 (LCA's, RCA's etc)

Discussion:

November 11, 2021

As soon as I got the car I parked it up and dropped it off to me old mate @EmmyWest for a respray.
it's a race car, I didn't want a show shine finish. Just for it to all be one nice colour, dents filled in etc. It's come out looking the absolute tits!

253199270_419318406502845_5729871740650857656_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr

252763221_6236169743121377_4668944236914090276_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr

252890840_1504851166542741_5343298070745770442_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr

252904427_248725857275510_2033562718651960891_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr

252927486_422076212848588_8398122880327394024_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr

253086554_3157587697815542_2606469033873125234_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr

20211106_103237 by phillipbaines, on Flickr