MKD

I thought about making my own. I might just go ahead and order the set though, theres an air leak I need to find once its back together - I think around the manifold base - so the new gaskets are going to be needed anyway for other places. The reason its taking so long is I'm trying to do the build on a $0 budget.... sounds stupid but after seeing the 'zero bucks cub' from chalopy, I figured why not. I'm prettymuch funding the entire build + initial purchase & everything else from dump finds/hoarded crap from my shed, so it takes awhile to find + sell stuff. Getting there. Build-wise, I got the barrel back from the machinists and it looks really good. Plus they bead blasted it so its back to factory clean again! I dropped in the head to get the bead blasting done too so at least it'll look cleaner - on those two parts anyway haha

whats the general opinion on replacing head gaskets / cylinder gaskets while its apart? should I bother? or maybe just smear some gasket goo round before I reassemble it? full gasket set is about $25 but then its one more thing I have to wait to arrive...

New piston kit, pretty cool looking piston. Its at the shop now getting bored out https://imageshack.com/i/jtmfqbj

I ended up taking the cylinder to get bored, and ordered a new 0.5 OS piton kit. I think i gain a whole extra cc out of it lol And i went with the direct mount downhill mtb stem option for the bars. The bmx setup is still here so i can change it over if i hate the mtb one. Rear struts are next, ill have to suss welding on some m12 nuts to the spanners. I was going to use 3/4in hex brass rod brazed to the spanner end and drill it out for the bottom mounting bolt but cant find any locally.

took it out for a test run the other night and hit 65kmhr no worries and it had more to give. got back home to check the plug colour and noticed it had a chunk of ring stuck to it somehow lol. not the best way to start a build thread! so took the head off and im pretty sure the rings are way worn, bore looks ok, as does the piston but it might mean i need to oversize it? someone will know the answer to that one? it had a mean slap beforehand but hopefully judging by the rings theyre the cause, and not a worn out bore? heres some pics anyway. havent decided on bars yet, either chop the BMX bars and use them as risers with a modified BMX stem or use the DH MTB bars with a direct mount mtb stem. both will go onto a new flat stem mount plate the headlight is a cool old PAR36 unity fog light (outa my grandads shed...) off an old ford that fits the existing headlight setup into it perfectly. i cant find a yellow/amber lens to suit a hi/low beam bulb though, so might use some tint. the tail lights a build-up of bits based on an old pushbike miller dyno headlamp. possibly thinking blue dot lens? rear struts should be funny if they work out lol. need to see if my neighbour can weld some M12 nuts onto open end of the spanners and it'll fit sweet!

She is a sexy scoot, probably wouldn't date her though. unless youre that dude from boston legal who hooked up with a stapler.

sussed the flooding I think. hopefully. ill take it for a ride tonight and see how it runs wheres the best place to get petcock seals? (slash, any FR50 parts) I need the tap seal, bowl and bowl oring. local suzi dealer cant get them, cmsnl has them from UK, but will end up costing about $75 for the 3 parts + 30gbp shipping... and need a kick start lever at some stage, mines rooted and the pedal almost faces backwards lol. might try weld on some new rotation stops to the pedal. on that note, does anyone know if a c50 kickstart will fit it? theyre on TM for $25

Sussed a few problems on the FR so far, with a few more to go before its running properly but passed a big hurdle today after waltzing into vtnz and sussing a rego. Boom. Sight unseen too. Stoked. They wanted to do the pre-check until i sweet talked them out of it haha 'nah the ltsa doesnt have it on the list on the moped info forms' ... 'nah the checks are only for vinned vehicles' and the chick goes 'ok, ill chuck it into the computer and see what it says without a check'. Win. Im planning on a lower new bar setup, new headlight with a vintage unity one - which just happen to fit the standard lens assembly into it, hardtail and new seat. Ill try to update as i go Latest problem is its flooding on startup. I'm thinking float height or petcock seals as theyre leaking...

found this site. could help? http://ct90-ct110.com/Wiring-Diagrams.html

does the normal ct90/c90 coil have one or two wires? memory says only one which means that schem isnt the one to follow - dont need a battery either as it has the mag? Or, im wrong. csmnl usually has a schematic on their bike pages if its a single wire coil i have a brand new one here i dont need (touch wood - yet) that was supposed to fit an MB100 or whatever - 6v single wire. bought it for my fr50 before i figured out the reason it wasnt starting was a loose wire from the stator...win. check the wiring! Edit: here - http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-ct90-trail-90-k0-usa_model619/partslist/F++16.html#results turns out i was wrong on the coil. looks like it has the condenser attached to the coil too

do this http://pipeburn.squarespace.com/storage/700%20DJ1.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1272957555970 lol and what size are those tyres? theyre huge

yup steel to steel can. tighter gaps is better. i havent really tried with big gaps

but, if youre worried, the chromoly will be about 6-8mm and the mild steel around 6mm. far beefier than the stock pressed sheetmetal framed original. I do have some nice chairlegs around though, good suggestion =P

Nah not for a cert, and theyre parts im going to be making to put in place of factory parts, so can swap back if i ever need to anyway. 50cc, so no wofs anyway.

Ok cool, so its strong enough for sure. Looking at making some custom hardtail struts for a fr50 suzuki, most likely from bit and pieces round the shop. Brass to steel and steel/brass to chrome vanaduim? Should work hopefully. Just dont have access to OA otherwise id probably use that. So you reckon a propane torch like a plumbers benzomatic etc or butane would work? Ill Just try it i guess, see what happens

if anyone needs a CAD program that's pretty much an exact copy of a few versions older autocad - Draftsight is free and apparently pretty good. http://www.3ds.com/products-services/draftsight/ or if anyones a student, you can get student versions of prettymuch any autodesk product (the makers of autocad) for free if you can prove youre enrolled at a uni etc, its all on their website too www.autodesk.com

im needing to weld/braze a few things soon, but ive never learnt to weld... I can braze with OA, but im wondering if anyone has had any experience with silver soldered joints? google + youtube shows a few vids with SSF6 silver solder and I hear its pretty strong. im going to be welding/brazing a few bits & pieces on a motorbike/scooter so loads shouldn't be too high on the joints. and...does anyone know if you can silver solder braze with butane? or whats the best/cheapest/easiest gas to get hold of? cheers

Haha fair enuf. My sheds chokka as is lol. Dude wouldn't sell me the first local one, will have to see how i go on the latest one.....

Wondered if you ended up winning it haha. Looks boss. Now you can sell me the ratty green one to do the same to