piazzanoob

After running the engine with the new spark plugs and there is no miss.

Then removing the plugs when the miss appears what condition are all the plugs in? particularly no 4   

This also might help identify what the plugs are doing.

for areas with not much room or corners i use a power file 

like this https://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/black-decker-powerfile-belt-sander-350-watt/p/267129

would recommend as just super handy. 

but for bigger areas i would use a wire wheel or a 3m strip disc 

can you guys help take down the neon signs after a big feed

thanks boys

Figured this thread suited this best. 

Got given these ramps and axle stands by the neighbor. They were all covered in surface rust and figured I should blast and paint them being the weirdo I am 

Gave them a spray can primer. Then had to decide on a colour I didn't want a normal blue red or black.

so caterpillar yellow/mustard they went.

also gives me an excuse to get some spray gun experience 

And unfortunately can't post any photos of the axle stands due to file size 

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/chevrolet/auction-2241434027.htm?rsqid=3da44eafa457424f9dd65f9b918f20fe-001

perfect for next years cruiser mate 

will help get going etc 

will help flip leafs 

commodores of this era are not much fun for front camber adjustment alot of them get seized due to conditions just a small 8mm bolt on the hub pushing the strut in or out. good thing is to keep CRC on them to prevent this. 

And im sure everything in the rear is also adjustable 

And most falcon's and commodores are common for uneven tyre wear from new worse in the rear than front though.

also having it lowered doesn't help but can be fixed with a alignment tech who understands vehicle suspension and the machine.

plus sometimes how you drive the vehicle wears the tyres and can throw all the specs out anyway.

also i think your best bet is to ask the alignment tech the questions and get him to explain whats on ya sheet. that way you don't look like a dick and you get to see if the tech understands what he's doing.

Worked on both of these a few months back

225 valiant motor which got a rebuilt head better cam and bottom end checked then put into a VG coupe 

And then a shitty AC cobra kit car..

Just now, Nominal said:

Been 6 months with no update @piazzanoob

motor is still in bits..

been making progress but slow due to doing other stuff and trying to get the machinist to come in on and Saturday and help work on it. did some stuff last Saturday but couldn't assemble heads due to wrong valve stem seal but should be sorting that this sat

its Actually quite depressing when ive spent more time working on it than ive ever driven it.

About your painfull sanding experience 

ive found that its always much easier to do it while jamming some music in your headphones.

or find someone like your mate or partner to give you a hand that way you can sharn away and get shit done.

but the end result is most of the time very rewarding and worth all that time you spent doing it.

unless you just want a bill and unrewarding experience because you just paid someone to do it

but Anyway crank onto it and get it done to have some fun with it on the track    

On 25/06/2019 at 20:45, The Bronze said:

this was in focus, tumblr is a shit image host these days. soz.

At All West Upholstery today, that dude is a GC if you need stuff, told me how to fix my thing myself and told me to go home and do it.

 

Also out west...

so mint, 200ish kms on the clock from what i peeped.

 

@Ghost

seen as your doing a full engine rebuild.

one thing that should be done on these motors is to clean up the block casting in the valley where the oval holes are. they have small bits from the casting left there which can come off and destroy your new engine. just run a die grinder round there and ya good and anywhere else that may need it.

oh and replace the distributor bush too 

also would personally buy new better heads than fix your current ones as most of the time the cost getting a shop to fit new guides and inserts plus valves isn't far off the price of new heads. but that depends on the condition of the heads 

Not trying to be a know it all or anything but i work at a engine shop so i know whats involved.

plus im doing a 318 at the moment   

On 09/06/2019 at 00:23, Bling said:

Reason I asked, was to see what the potential was for polishing. Probably not an ideal candidate, but you can likely polish it and would need to protect it afterwards. Could come up pretty shiney though.

unfortunately someone in the past has painted the housings silver so that would need removing to start with.

but suspect under the paint wouldn't be a polishing start point  

but good idea 

1 hour ago, 0fnsiv said:

Tried the guys at either Progressive or Alert plating in New Lynn? Got alert to do a motorcycle reflector a couple of years ago, stripped it first, went and got it, repaired the deep packs with solder, polished it with 1200 grit and kero, got them to double copper it, got it back and polished the copper by hand gently and then got them to nickel and chrome it.....$75 all up......came up awesome, then my old man stacked it and the reflector is now somewhere in either Hampton tip, or a spec of rebar in the SH20 overbridge.....

was going to ring progressive and see what its worth to get done.

well i guess at least it was recycled....

On 05/06/2019 at 23:33, Bling said:

What material are the housings made of?

steel

24 minutes ago, datlow said:

Oh so it’s re silvered not chrome?

 

that appears to be the go. 

did some research and that's what people are doing 

19 minutes ago, S124AB said:

Glue some tinfoil on the bases....

did think about that but generally tinfoil turns dark under heat.

also could effect the beam pattern.

more of the reason for not trying to do it.

4 minutes ago, Sambo said:

Worth a shot?

 

i did think about this but was unsure about the heat element or it would provide enough reflection as i have seen spray can chrome quite cloudy.

cool pad!

Are your plans to live in this also? 

and whats the natural temperatures like in it?  

currently got some headlights out of a 90's daf van.

problem i have is they don't provide enough light due to no light reflection from the base. 

have stripped the glass lense off and someone has previously painted the metal bases silver which don't reflect.

had a quote to get the bases chromed and got a 800 dollar quote. not soo keen

can also get new lights from england but quite spendy and vehicle only comes out once a year if its lucky so isnt really worthwhile.

so what other options do i have that will work? 

keen to hear someone else with same problem and how it was resolved

cheers     

real nice cars to drive and good fuel mileage. but was told the six speed auto transmissions fail at a huge rate. alot under 100,000kms

also a trans parts supplier salesmen said they couldn't keep up with supplying the parts needed for them and had them on back order. also said the parts were close to the value of the car. 

pretty much any late model euro car are not very reliable. much more maintenance and upkeep than a Japanese car.

Hyundai i30 diesels seem to be good

or mazda 6         

On 24/04/2019 at 16:05, L0n3Ly.Kp said:

anyone got a good condition spare alternator or a voltage regulator for a kp61 that i could borrow to check why my alternator isnt charging my battery? kind of getting sick of working on my kp hahah 

Hit up youtube for checking and testing car charging systems 

pull out your multimeter 

then off ya go and diagnose ya fault 

swapping parts can chase ya tail plus its a bonus when ya learn something new