Plox

I'd say its on the small side for 350whp. Try find something thicker or taller for more cross sectional flow area (ideally).

My 230x550x63 IC was a significant restriction at 280wkw/375whp (awd) with something like 4/5psi of pressure drop. It cooled the air effectively but the flow area was too restrictive.

Now I have a similar size but 100mm thick and it has no pressure drop, also the tune needed more fuel and less wastegate duty for the same boost.

Edit: Also look at ITL intercoolers, had them recommended by a few people and do the trick while not costing the earth (could get their 500x300x100 cut down to 500x180x100 or so).

We are wanting to fit a coil over conversion kit to my farthers Morris minor, but we should probably check how legal it is first. I assume the answer is take it to the certifier and ask, but it could be simple hell no and no need to waste his or our time.

Has anyone used one of the Spax front coil over conversion kits (http://www.morrisminorspares.com/front-suspension-c47/front-suspension-all-models-c71/coil-over-damper-conversion-kit-front-spax-p830570) or similar and know if they are certifiable in NZ? 

Bottom of the coil over mounts to the lower arm like below:

Top of the coil over mounts to a plate which is bolted to the existing "shock" like so:

Thanks in advance for any advice

I couldn't find the right disc's for my mx83, north shore Toyota found them from another supplier. If you haven't tried them I'd suggest it, seem to be a bit more helpful and on to it than the average.

Repco has a listing for mx73 but none in stock anywhere.

I'll be there for the Sunday at least

11 hours ago, 64vauxhall said:

Couple pages back it popped up. My god the smoke that came out of it on deceleration was mind blown. 

Was ridiculous, I was wondering what was in it. Smoke added to the confusion. Hopefully I have some video's of following it

Or based on: http://cressidaforums.forumotion.com/t246-brake-upgrade

I can use Mazda MPV rotor (RDA960 or DBA960 rotor size=276d x64h x28t) and Landcrusier pads (DB1199) but still need the hub centric ring made.

Looking to do a brake upgrade on my mx83 and I have a set of z32 calipers and rotors on the way.

Any recommendations where locally (NZ) I could get the below made?

I could buy similar rings on ebay aus for $80 but he doesn't ship to NZ and they are to fit slightly different rotors I believe (may be a good thing as then I won't need the spacers/adapters). 

Credit to for the info: http://jzxproject.com/bbs/index.php?showtopic=1283&page=1

Has the tune happened, how did it go? I saw it at the supermarket yesterday and it reminded me to check progress here.

A single walbro should supply more than enough for 250kw in the future.

That or Bosch, no need to change other components. FPR should hold the fuel pressure the same as with your factory pump.

Pretty much +1 to what testament said

19 hours ago, dr.wylde said:

If you want to get around the bullshit of the ecotec wirring loom 

May I suggest running said ecotec off  a VN-VP ecu & loom with all the VN VP sensors  (the aussies have been doing it for years)

I may be speaking out of turn here as the cars aren't actually mine, but there are 3 crushed (ish) v6 commodores as left overs from one of our paddock days. Believe there are 1 vn/vp and 2 vs. All of the motors are poked in one way or another and I know 1 vs engine + parts off another are spoken for. Where's @MRWEST

If you are bidding at turners, make sure you read terms and conditions, pick up within 48 hours (from memory) before you start getting charged storage. And calculate auction/turners fees - $400 bid becomes $700

Sooo, much driving? Hows it been going?

I like it on those wheels but I agree the middle in a colour would be great. I love polished lip, gold mesh at the moment. Can't picture the centers bronze but white/bronze seem to suit.

Side note, GTR links are on special till the end of Jan. Tad more boost and tune should see it net 350 ponies atw. Factory turbos are said to be safe up to 1 bar, anything more is getting dangerous.

If he's going in that direction he will need a BCM and matching key, or an eprom chip (available off trademe for ~$70 with the return of the current one) that disables the immobiliser function in the ECU.

When my paddock commy wouldn't start due to the dead key/immoboiliser it wouldn't fire at all

You ruined it... nah sounds cool, B4's are great cars but the TT system sucks.

Appears you removed brake booster & ABS and have a different (subaru?) MC/proportioning valve, Any issues with the steering?

So I took the car for a cert, one of the items it failed on was that it needs a heat shield between master cylinder and exhaust (turbo housing).

Would a turbo beanie meet the requirement? (I asked him but he wasn't sure how good they were and said he would need to be able to hold has hand in between them after going for a decent drive) 

For those not familiar with Subaru's, picture below (sorry about the photo, I was trying to work out what master cylinder I had):

The week is here lads! Bring it on!

Might see you there

Does it make more than 50% more power than stock? if so, yes it will need loops, 2 if its a 2 piece shaft.

 

http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_07-2016_Drive-shaft_Safety-loop_Requirements.pdf

Thanks for that, more up to date than the one I found.

It's currently on a reduced tune making 180 ish kw atw but it can make another 100wkw. According to Wiki it was 164kw out of the factory (at engine).

Problem with with these is the driveshaft needs to be from bc to have the hanger in the right spot. Or will that remove the hanger and then I'll only need to install a front loop?

Yea bit lower, not hella flush or anything though. Has adjustable rear arms and front camber plates & bolts so with a decent alignment it should be OK.

Hi all, wanting to gather knowledge on getting my car cert'd. Mainly needs a cert for brakes and adjustable suspension.

It's a bc5 Subaru legacy RS & it has a Garrett, Link ecu etc. (so I believe it classes as significant power increase, sadly), upgraded to 6 speed Subaru gearbox, factory Subaru driveshaft to suit (uni directly after the yoke & join after the mid hanger bearing), standard rear end. Thoughts on the need for driveshaft loop(s)?

Going on the LVVTA sheet it should have a rear drive shaft loop due to power increase? (if so it's going to be a huge pain to install due to a lack of space  ), I'm a bit unclear about the front half.

Any feedback appreciated

Do you need doors for a re-vin? Have heard you don't need doors for a wof but unsure about how true it is.

Just a rev limiter that cuts spark but not fuel aren't they?

Would imagine they are similarly harsh as anti lag or launch control - excess use causes turbo issues, burn't valves and chew through exhaust gaskets

Not a fan of sandwhich plates but you can get these if it suits placement on your car:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/core-engine/auction-670726455.htm

You can get inline thermos with an oil filter relocation kit etc.

Unsure about power steering thermo but could just use lines like a lot of factory cars have.

Need a starter that's from a k50 box I believe.

Need a bit more info around the cert. Assuming your doing a 4age swap into something that use to have a smaller engine?

Any performance shop would do a engine swap and get running but a lot of $$$$ I would think, and you would still need to organize cert etc.

Edit: Just remembered that starter motors off 3au engines should fit (k50 box)

Brenton couldve bought a reasonable sized luxury country wine estate for the price of his motor.  So the argument "Brenton did it" can get fucked.

This ^ made me laugh.

What's wrong with diff, bushes or dying from abuse?