Jump to content

Ghostchips

Members
  • Posts

    4869
  • Joined

  • Days Won

    5

Posts posted by Ghostchips

  1. Could someone tell me why this

      if (analogRead(inPin) <= sensorThreshold)
      {
          if (coilState == LOW && coilPin == LOW) {
          coilState = HIGH;
          coilPin = HIGH;
          digitalWrite(outPin, !(digitalRead(outPin)));
          previousMicros = currentMicros;
         }
        if (coilState == HIGH && coilPin == HIGH && currentMicros - previousMicros >= coilCharge)
         {
          digitalWrite(outPin, LOW);
          coilPin = LOW;
          previousMicros = currentMicros;
         }
        if (coilState == HIGH && coilPin == LOW && currentMicros - previousMicros >= dwell)
        {
          previousMicros = currentMicros;
          coilState = LOW;
          coilPin = LOW;
        }
      }
      else
      {
        digitalWrite(outPin, LOW);
      }


    Runs way slower (as in, ignition retarded with the sensors and engine speed the same) and noticeably less smooth than....

    This?

      if (analogRead(inPin) <= sensorThreshold)
      {
        digitalWrite(outPin, !(digitalRead(outPin)));
        delay(2);
        digitalWrite(outPin, LOW);
        delay(10);
      }
      else
      {
        digitalWrite(outPin, LOW);
      }
    }


  2. 20 hours ago, HighLUX said:

    Yeah just need Temp gauge, small digital readout would be fine.

    Thermocouple off Ali might work if you could find one that runs to the right range?

     

    Those $5 ones work for me. K-type with reader, 0-800 degrees.

    • Like 1
  3. Picture-less update.

    While i will still need to dial in the auto-advance curve (the orig' relied on a combination of moving a lever to a basic range, and the magnets on the flywheel ramping up the speed of the points opening) it has a notable improvement in fuel economy, partly due to being able to wind the fuel mixture screw in 1/16th of a turn & have the same performance.
    It's like having the magneto set perfectly.  But requires a battery.

    • Like 6
    • Thanks 1
  4. On 21/09/2019 at 13:33, morkster said:

    In my mid to late teens (25 yrs ago) i used to dream over this thing.. it still had a roof over it back then and was definitely savable.. however lack of cover has nailed it..

    CAM00739.jpg

    CAM00741.jpg

    Flathead v8

    CAM00740.jpg

    CAM00742.jpg

    I'd still attempt it.

    • Like 6
  5. If it's LED1 you're trying to connect to, that LDR idea i had might be easiest.  Looks like connecting things to the LED makes that flasher circuit go nuts.
    I only know that because i built that flasher a a kid, the rest of the circuit is a bit above my pay grade.

    • Like 1
  6. 8 hours ago, flyingbrick said:

    Dewalt battery charger. 150 to 200 bucks to buy outside of a kit but has 1% of the functionality of my cheap multifunction Ali express charger. 

    The main thing i miss is a buzzer to say it's finished- i charge quite a few packs at night so it would be nice.

    Currently an LED flashes when charging and lights solid when complete. I planned to use simple switch debounce code and arduino to sound a buzzer when the led stops flashing.

    I stripped charger and wanted to check voltage of led during the charge cycle..but even touching one multimeter probe to one of the LED solder pads upsets its flash cycle- and at that stage i decided to re-assemble before i broke something.

    Does anyone have any idea what could cause this? Must be extremely sensitive circuitry!!

    Opticouple. Contains an LED.  It might not might one being conected.

    Or put a photo-resister over the LED.  I've done things like that but the calibration is hard to maintain. Phototransistor might work better.

    • Like 1
×
×
  • Create New...