M.H.

Just now, johnnyfive said:

and at our request fitted a mudbug locking clutch lever

What is the reason for a locking clutch lever? So you dont have to find neutral when getting off to open gates?

Also buy some good quality microfibers and handle them correctly, ie don't drop them on the ground and get any sort of grit in them

On 29/04/2020 at 19:24, BlownCorona said:

After I colour sand the crown to fix up the clearcoat, what would you guys recommend as a polish? 

And will 2000gr be fine enough on the paper or do I need to track down some 2500/3000?

2000 was as fine as I could order from supercheap during level 3 lockdown but I figure it'll take me a while to get to the 2000gr stage

2000 is fine.

I use 3d products ACA cutting compound and polis, start with a lambswool pad on the buff to cut it and then a foam pad for polishing and then wax it or apply a coating. You will want a decent polisher, one that has a large stroke orbit like one of the rupes bigfoot, its what I used when I did car detailing. 

Could wang a xr200 engine it it, disc brakes are for girls anyway

https://transact.nzta.govt.nz/transactions/CheckExpiry/entry

I think what everyone is trying to say is Barra

Just now, Vertigo said:

Id prefer it to be an ignition cut, as its more immediate. Its more about preventing as much engine damage a possible, than anything else.

Why bother, just have a warning buzzer/light for low pressure. Last thing you want is the engine being cut out mid corner

Does the ECU not turn on the fuel pump? If it does then if the engine stalls the fuel pump will stop

Just now, RUNAMUCK said:

I hope so.

I'll need you to bring my ride!

I can donate you this, have an old plate that can go on it too

Just now, yetchh said:

Who uses a torque wrench to tighten wheels nuts? 

The tyre shops after doing them up to 950nm with the rattle gun

Oh well, the old engine was going in the bin anyway

Bolted the atc125 into the ct90 last night and then pulled apart the ct90 engine to rob the kick starter from it as Ill be ditching the rip start on the 125 as its too wide. Will give the 125 a freshen up whilst its apart

Weird can't see the gemini ones.

I use imgur for mine, pretty easy to use

How come I can see them?

Just now, cletus said:

If it was me I'd wait until you have the rest sorted, engine in , front suspension stuff done, and see where you need to go from there

Yea ill do that, just realised they have added an extra leaf as well so ill take one out and see what happens as the engine and box didnt compress it as much as I thought it would

Just now, Dolan said:

Lel how much courier did it cost ya

$55

So I chucked some weight on the back

@cletus with the shocks in it does stop them inverting so if it settles a bit it should be alright?

Has any one tried running a modernish oem ecu on a old engine? I was thinking of using the bosch me7.5.5 from a vw 1.8t on the fiat 1.6 engine for my X1/9. I already have everything so just thought it would be a cheap way of running sequential injection and spark, wideband, drive by wire ect. It can be directly tuned over the obd port

As far as height goes I've still got to fit the wide front suspension I have for it out of a widebody bighorn so that will bring the front up a bit and then I guess the springs will sag a little bit but no idea by how much.

I had them done by archers in rotorua last year in October or November, just getting around to putting them in now, a bit annoyed with them with how they ripped me on the courier fees to send them back.

Just now, cletus said:

if that's with all the weight on, it looks wrong, like the springs have been raised too much

Yep that's flat on the ground, although the back of this weights fuck all

Put the rear shocks in, they just fit as it sits in the pic

This is how it's sitting at the moment, there is no engine or box in it at the moment so the front is at max height

Just managed to get them to go the right way with a bit of help from a big bar. I'll dig out the shocks and refit them, i didn't think having shocks in would make any difference

As soon as any weight is put on they want to invert. What I meant by how they looked more than 50mm worth of lift is that when I got them back they looked way more curved than I remembered them

They were reset for some more lift, I asked for it to be about 50mm but it seems to be a lot more than that

Just now, cletus said:

Try it with the shock in, if it still does it you might need to cut the spring shackle mount off and move it, or get a longer leaf made, or if its borderline, make a 'stopper' to prevent it over centering like it has in the photo 

Common problem for Isuzus 

Having paid for them to be reset I'm not too keen on forking out for another set of springs. When moving the shackle mount how should the shackle be positioned at full drop?

I had the leaf springs for my Isuzu reset by archers in rotorua but now the shackle angle is up the shit making them invert

Have the springs been curved too much?

Full drop

Sitting on the ground