chris r

Did some more digging and learning and now have ordered the PCB. I found the files for the converter and solenoid driver so I ordered them at the same time. The minimum order quantity was 5 so I've got spares if I mess up the SMD work.

I'll need to order a bunch of components but have some time until the PCB arrives as I ordered it on snail mail

Tigged it up, I'm fairly rusty with a tig but hopefully it'll hold. 

Didn't end up taking much length out of the pipe in the end, only about 15 mm where the old weld was. I'll steal the flexi and flange off the other headers when it's time to fit everything. Will have to try figure out a support bracket as well 

Part number says it came from a ibm 3277

I opened the board up and was pleasantly surprised. I was expecting it to be semi fucked but it's pretty good inside 

Dust cover thing was there but brittle and came apart when I touched it 

I had hoped it had the circuit board that would let me just order and plug in the USB converter. 

I've found this old thread where someone designed a replacement pcb. Will need to figure out who/where to order it form 

https://deskthority.net/viewtopic.php?t=16867

Ended up cutting the weld and at the flange

Couple of cuts and ugly tacks 

It's super close but clears stuff 

Before I ordered the other key caps I thiyght I'd have a look on trademe and see if there were any model M. There weren't but was a listing for a "antique keyboard" 

Chucked some bids on and in had a delivery when I woke up this afternoon 

As expected they hit the transfer case 

Current plan is to cut along the existing repair /weld line and shorten the secondary section then do a couple of bends around the transfer case. 

Headers arrived, looks like they have been on a low car and repaired. Should flow a bunch better than what I have on the car now, wont be easily able to tell power increase from the headers alone as I'll be doing cams as well before it goes back to the dyno 

First pics are from the auction 

Reapir looks good enough, I'll most likely need to modify that section to clear the transfer case anyway so not too worried 

My best guess is they are Fujitsubo super ex headers 

And a quick vid of the Mrs typing on it. 

Right so many hours later I've found the file/instructions and figured out how to remap the keys on the other converter so that two of them working and USB converted now

This one is running the original control/encoder board with a teensy module attached to it - Can kinda see the teensy module above it there

Ended up jumping between 4 different programes to sort out the mapping

Had to figure out what key was actually being pressed

then cross-reference it to the table of key tags/labels.

The firmware I flashed into the teensy is called soarers converter and once everything is figured out you just need to create a text file with the remapping

then enter that file into a compiler/flash tool

Then everything will work on the num pad. I've mapped the tab button as a backspace and the old scroll lock button as the windows button for now 

3 hours ago, ~Slideways~ said:

Cool I didn't know this was a thing, where did you get it from?

Neither did I hah. I found it when I was looking for the instructions/remapping stuff for the other module 

https://keebd.com/products/model-h-usb-controller-upgrade-ibm-model-m?syclid=cl43vgetuops738tu4c0&utm_campaign=emailmarketing_140968493208&utm_medium=email&utm_source=shopify_email

Got everything reassembled and alignment was surprisingly close. 

The car feels way nicer to drive now, the old rubber was way softer than I expected. 

I've scored some better jasma stamped headers which should flow significantly better than my rangid up 4-1. I'll have to re make some of the exhaust to suit but that's not the end of the world as I can get a bit more clearance around the diff and hopefully get rid of the rattle. 

I grabbed some k series fuel injectors when I was last at pick a part. They should have a much better spray pattern and atomisation compared to the older ones I have in there now. I'm curious to see if there will be any change in economy etc with them. Will find out after the re tune once I do exhaust and fit the cams 

Remembered I had these in my hoard and had some inspiration to dig them out 

I'd forgotten how dirty they were 

I'd forgotten/lost the link to remap the teensy so cheated a bit and ordered that board which replaces the original control board 

Cleaned up the housings 

Tried a single keyboard worth of key caps in some dish soap. Left them to soak overnight and they came up pretty good with next to zero effort 

The cat helped me sort and group the key caps

One cleaned and usb converted model m. Only thing is the num ad scroll lock lights are swapped around. I'll see if I can figure out how to reprogram that. 

On 22/08/2020 at 10:56, chris r said:

So my aliexpress order finally arrived and I converted my terminal model m to USB 

Aliexpress teensy and a code I found from someone smarter than me. 

I'll have to read the instructions on key mapping as the num pad isn't mapped correctly but all the letters work correctly 

Ended up cheating and getting another usb module (model h board) will update my electronics thread 

Time for a front end refresh on the orthia 

All the ball joint bolts are split and  needed replacing. 

Got passenger side upright/knuckle out along with the the upper control arm. 

I grabbed a energy suspension urethane kit. I really like them /rate them. Have them all through the shuttle 

New ball joint and boot in the upper arm. Bit of heat and encouragement and the inner part of the bushing came out 

Pressed in the new inner bushings with my press tool 

Managed to get the lower ball joint out of the knuckle but haven't quite got it sorted yet. 

Spent some time this afternoon attacking the rear cv shaft

It didn't want to play nicely 

Remembered I had that nice press thing which did the trick 

Replacement pick a part cv shaft with non split boots 

28 minutes ago, flyingbrick said:

this hurt my head.

 

Could you do this? Would mean its not affected by anything the fan does and the lamp is switched on by the thermo switch or bypass by giving it ground.

 

That will work too. 

Depends if you want a 'fan is actually on' light or a 'fan switching circuit okay' light 

51 minutes ago, Thousand Dollar Supercar said:

In order for the fan override switch to be able to force the fan to run, you'd need the thermal switch to be normally open, and the dash/fan light would have to be on whenever the fans were NOT working. I think. I did have some gin a bit earlier.

Revthe fan Switch side looks good/it'll work as drawn

@sr2what do you want the light to do? 

If you want it to indicate when the fan is running then connect it to the 30 terminal of relay/in parallel with the fan itself 

If you wire it as drawn the relay/fan will always be on as it'll earth out through the bulb 

Been working night shifts so haven't had much daylight to do stuff. 

I haven't been awake when the weather has been good enough to paint to no clear coat

Got a few mins today. 

Found some nuts and bolts in my box of bolts, drilled and tapped the strut towers 

And brace is fitted 

Paint isn't perfectly smooth and you can see a few sanding marks but it's good enough and will get scratched etc etc in time so I'm not too worried. 

Also found a cheap factory dual runner intake manifold to play with for another experiment. 

Picked up a cheap strut brace the other day. It was wrinkle red and I couldn't handle that much extra power so gave it a quick sand and paint

So replacement spring has done the job and no issues so far. 

Popped into pick a part and grabbed the tank out of the shuttle there to replace my rusted one. Figure no rust + a soldered hole is better than Fucking around with a rusty tank. 

Also grabbed the d swries/shuttle output flange from the transfer case a quick rough measurement suggests the shuttle driveshaft might fit the orthia but I'll need to change the flange to suit 

Swapping to the shuttle diff shoul get more clearance with exhaust and hopefully stop the rattles 

15 hours ago, shrike said:

Didn't @chris r get some jets from Aliexpress or am I thinking of someone else?

Wasn't me sorry 

One of the springs in the left hand drum fucked out and it was locking up in reverse. Got the shits with them and started re looking into disc conversions again. 

Found a old forum post that someone drew up/3d printed a bracket. Send the file to my mate who printed it

Attacked one of my spare trailing arms and got the wheel bearing/backing plate out and test fitted it

For some reason I hoarded everything except the rear discs off the integra I parted out. Caliper almost fits 

But parking brake mechanism hanging off the back hits the trailing arm 

Looks like people in the states butcher the arm a bunch to get it to actually fit. So I went to pick a part and grabbed a spring to replace the stretched/damaged one

Other side done 

Thought I'd change the fuel filter but the one from rock auto leaked. 

I thought I was going mad/more mental when I was checking the oil and the dipstick was in different positions. 

The tube was loose and came out

Have it a degrease and slapped some black rtv. 

Back in the hole and hopefully it stays there now 

More maintenance. 

Fitted new adjuster bolt and lock thingy on the right hand side today. Will do other side tomorrow

Doug approves