chris r

I'll need some tighter radius bends for the manifold and the dump pipe so ordered a donut and some more steam pipe bends. Also got some heat sleeving for the ac lines. If I'm lucky I'll be able to use it for the water and oil lines for the turbo 

4 hours ago, HumberSS said:

Would you recommend one or two different reso's per bank (and are the M&H ok)? And what about pipe size? My collector is 63mm, should I step down to 2" or 2.25" through the resos and stick with that all the way, or go up to 2.5" through the muffler? Remembering this thing is likely around 125hp per bank at a guess.. And do I need a balance pipe before muffler or would that be sufficient for the balancing aspect (will be above diff). Im open to sticking with a twin system right the way through but am trying to keep it packaged pretty tightly hence the 2 into 1. I also dont have heaps of room for a tail pipe so might side exit behind the wheel. Thanks man

I've used a couple of m&h resonators and was quite disappointed with them tbh. Didn't take any of the rasp out of the exhaust note (honda) 

I've used one of these Xlerator Enforcer Glass pack along with a turbo flow from the same company on my wagon and am really happy with it's note 

Could you add another cable to the throttle body/somewhere so if you are above 50% throttle for example it opens the butterflies 

The shroud arrived, it'll need some trimming to suit but was cheap enough

I pulled the manifold off and sat the turbo in place with the v band adaptor bolted on so I can start figuring out the manifold. I'd be a lot easier to fit the tubo without the air con compressor 

The downpipe is going to be fun and a lot of bends too, it'll probably will do a U-turn then sneak behind the manifold and down. 

@Raizer trimmed the Drain fitting and that now fits nicely (I'll need to clock the core to sort out the angles ) The sinco merge collector is quite nice, I might need to shorten it a little as its quite long and space is limited 

I've ordered some more steampipe short radius bends as I don't have enough. The Nissan genuine studs for the turbo are 40mm M8x1.25 and are $12 each, The Honda studs are 38mm M8x1.25 and are $2.50 each so I'll order a bunch of honda studs and hope the 2mm won't make that much difference 

After seeing flash sort the ac in his van (that was the kick I needed to start refitting) and with the diy hoses I figured I'd give it a crack too. 

Ordered some fittings and a meter of hose 

Didn't end up needing anywhere close to a meter 

And sitting ready for crimping 

I'll probably end up running the wires through the loom in the guard for the ac compressor and pressure switch as I won't any any of the engine loom on the front. 

Thinking about it I'll run the boost control solenoid with it and tuck it out of the way in that area 

Grabbed some M5 stainless stuff in my travels today 

Drilled and tapped the rest of the mounting holes and mounted the condenser 

In one of the previous test fits I'd marked out where it would probably hit the body 

Took a brave pill and took the hacksaw to the offending piece and it clears 

And it's in position and (nearly) everything clears 

It's close to the bonnet latch so I might need to give it a trim but will see how it goes 

I was thinking I might need to make up some ducting but the drivers side doesn't have too many places for the air to escape through 

Passengers side is a different story but I'll deal with that one turbo manifold and plumbing is done 

I found some aluminium strap in the scrap bin at work. Drilled and tapped it and mounted it to the rad. I've put some nylocs on the back to be extra safe 

@Raizer machined me up some spacers and I dummied up the condenser onto the rad. Will get some more screws etc at some point and finish mounting it 

I was dumb and was looking for a replacement fan as the one I had was in a pusher config. Actually had a look at the fan today and realised I could flip the blade and make it a puller config...

Flipped the blade around and that's sorted. Also scored a shroud off trademe for a good price, It will need a bit of trimming 

Well that escalated quickly. Figured may as well go ham on this /learn how to do some concentric twisting etc. 

Got some lengths of dr25 and a bunch of different size pins to suit bulkhead connectors. Have some cable on the way too. Should keep me busy for winter 

Here's some info to help id the cams https://www.ff-squad.com/tech/temp/VtecCams.htm

B16a and type r cams go good in the B20s

It'll go way harder if you can get it tuned, some accords (and us market integras) have a separate auto trans computer so you can get a tunable ecu (chipped if you want to call it that) 

Redone the high pressure hardline to the receiver drier. 

Few more joins that I'd initially hoped for but they brazed up much nicer than the block did 

Cut some bends out of the selection of hardline I had. 

Needed to drill one out to suit the hose

Lined everything up

Brazed each section individually so only one thing would move 

I decided it'd be better to have a flexible hose both in and out of the condenser, less risk of my brazing fatiguing and cracking. Drilled out the compressor adaptor fitting to suit the hardline and brazed it on

I'll make a little plate and bolt the fitting so it's secured 

I was poking around looking for bulkhead connectors and found a deutsch connector which looked nice and worked with the crimper I already own. 

Little bit more poking around on the Te connectivity website and saw a sample button next to a version of the connector, but more poking around and there were more products with a sample button. 

Apparently it is not too good to be true and everything arrived. Now comes the part where I hope my spreadsheet and counting was correct and I do actually have enough pins to do what I want 

The later model commodore electronic distributors fit in nicely put one into my tonner, only issue is the vac advance mechanism on mine isn't advancing so if your points dizzy is in good condition I'd leave it imo. And barries want way too much money for them 

All the old barries say headers and exhausts / electronic dizzy makes them quicker but the tonner did exactly the same 1/4 mile after headers /exhaust/electronic dizzy so it's probably just barry crap. 

Edit: if you change the timing gears may as well do the cam while you are in there...

https://www.aucklandcams.co.nz/camlist/holden-149-202/

how you/brother/dad/uncle/cousin/mate used to have one

Had had a nice hq wagon then wrote it off on the motorway 

- why my mrs is now tougher and cooler than me

Your both a catch xo

- why big Australian cars with a mix of metric and imperial fasteners are better than silly little European ones that only use metric ( i had to dig out my very limited and mismatched Imperial sockets and wrenches that had been banished to the back of bottom draw of the tool box and put them right in the top bit )

Adjustable spanner doesn't care about metric or imperial 

- where to get new parts easily/cheaply/locally

Ebay has been pretty good for stuff if you are patient 

- why the second hand stuff on FBMP is outrageously priced and clearly owned by meth head bogans and how to avoid them 

- tips and tricks for hotting up your 173 using OEM + parts (commie inlet and exhaust manifolds? - the single stromberg and right angled log exhaust manifold offends me!))

Nah m8 get a set of flows and str8frew exhaust and it'll go like a cut cat that's had three of its legs cut off 

- can you bolt a 202 to the Torana 4 speed?

Probably 

- where to find a nice 202. 

- why do i even want a 202 (re-rego mainly), the 173 is probably perfectly fine, KPie doesnt really care (unless its a v8), and it wont be the engine from the Torana any more, 

They are all bags of hammers 

- where the fuck is the fill port for the CNG system on this car? (its not behind the number plate with the petrol filler) 

Condenser arrived today, dougs given his approval 

Fits in the space nicely, little bit of overhang so I'll need to figure out some shroud /bracket arrangements. From all the the info I found condenser ideally shouldn't be more than 13mm away from the rad so I can keep it nice and close 

I went on a barry rabbit hole and found out pretty much all 92-2001 small hondas (b and d series motors) all have the same ac compressor. 

I noticed the orthia has a nicer shaped discharge (heh) hose, the crv has the same shaped hose so I grabed one from pick a part. It brings the line closer to the chassis rail and away from potential turbo stuff. 

Found a service port adapter and valve removal tool on rock auto for cheap so got them with some other stuff I had coming. 

Now low side has a R134 service port, it took me a few attempts to realise I needed to remove the old valve before screwing that fitting on 

I also grabbed a high pressure line off a ba Falcon so I can use the service port off that or just use the line as sleeve.

I also figured out the self install or diy ac line kits use oetiker or double ear clamps on their lines.

Once the condenser arrives I plan to chop the crv condenser end off and use the ear clamps on one of the fittings I got off AliExpress. If it doesn't work it was a $30 experiment and I can still use the crv alloy shaped hose and braze a mior fitting onto it 

On 14/03/2024 at 20:07, 87creepin said:

How much was the power steering hose? 

It's the low pressure ac line. Was $250 all said and done. 

From memory the last power steer hose I had made up was a similar amount 

I saw some fittings cheap on AliExpress and they arrived in a couple of weeks which was a surprise. Ordered a bit of tube with the hope/plan to use it as a sleeve 

It even fits nicely in the compressor 

Very spenny hose fits and lines up as well 

The scumbag /barry in me is very tempted to cut the end of the factory hose and crimp or clamp onto the fitting. 

High side unfortunately. If low side I'd be tempted to give it a go 

5 hours ago, tortron said:

Size of sight glass? Perhaps a motorcycle master cyl replacement  glass/oring would fit? I have a few bags of different size 

Hmm possibly. This does look pressed in or some other wizardry

My only worry with master cylinder glass is would it like the high pressures of the ac system 

I went to go pressure test my brazed hose the other day and noticed I've damaged the sight glass so I'll need to re make that line or keep looking for a factory one 

On 06/03/2024 at 20:58, Willdat? said:

Pretty impressive, DOHC ZC Beagle was 10L/100km...

My other sohc auto beagle is about the same as yours. I'll see if it stays like this for a while 

Orthia update. Done a few hundred km since the tune. Turns out more midrange torque/power means better economy. Best since the vtec conversion. The 7.8 L/100 was when it was stock auto non vtec 

The local ac shop redid the suction hose for me, was a bit more than I expected to pay but it's hopefully done right. I'll get a conversion fitting for the service port and let's hope that's it. 

Had a chat to the local ac guys and they can't just re crimp the end of the hose. Need to replace the flexi hose and new crimps on both ends as the hose is a different size apparently. Bit more than I wanted to spend but atleast I know it'll be done properly and shouldn't leak. 

The sticker shock gave me a bit of encouragement to attempt the rest of the lines 

I must not be the only honda sicko wanting to reinstate aircon into their ef. Everything had been taken from the ef civic at zebra, I grabbed some lines off a ek civic as they are longer and looked like they'd be usable 

Among the lines I grabbed when I was at pick a part (fucking cunts for cutting them to degass them) the daihatsu lines had a nice block for the service port and pressure switch. 

I cut the lines off and drilled them out so I could fit my lines in and make it less difficult to braze them

Took a few attempts 

One side leaked with the 0.5 psi my lungs could generate. 

Re braze that and the other side leaked so redid that too. Doesn't appear to be any more leaks now

A bonus of using the ek lines is they match the receiver drier I already have 'in stock' that I got for the orthia. 

I don't like the pressure switch sitting on that block by the strut tower. I'll swap the blank off the receiver drier and install it on the receiver drier so it's nicely tucked away 

I'll need to get the aircon condenser at least roughly in place with a idea on where the hoses need to go so I can figure out where the turbo and its plumbing can go. I'll most likely need to figure out some shrouds for the radiator etc and the intercooler. Never had an issue with the current radiator with its pusher fan but that is stock power levels and without an intercooler and ac condenser in front. I'll also need to figure out what size fan will fit on the back of the radiator. Depending on where the intercooler ends up sitting I might see if I can get a small fan for one side of it which we can control via ecu if temps get too high

I spent a few hours looking through a Air Con catalogue looking at different sized condensers etc. Basically nothing OEM will fit nicely. I have found and ordered a universal 12"x16" condenser which should mount onto the front of my radiator nicely.

Will see if I can pop to zebra tomorrow and with a bit of luck the Civic there will have a un butchered high side line from the evaporator to the receiver drier so I won't have to fuck around with brazing a bunch of hoses together 

I'll leave this link here so I can find it again later (all the fitting sizes etc - http://www.gpdtechtips.com/techtip136.html

@Raizer machined the cast v-band adaptor housing to fit/work with a v-band flange 

Sat the turbo in the engine bay now the Ac compressor is sitting there and there is more space than I was expecting, even with the stock manifold in place 

Plan is to have a coupler from the turbo into the intercooler

The intercooler should (will one way or another) fit just in front of the vertical brace for the bonnet support behind the bumper