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chris r

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Everything posted by chris r

  1. The later model commodore electronic distributors fit in nicely put one into my tonner, only issue is the vac advance mechanism on mine isn't advancing so if your points dizzy is in good condition I'd leave it imo. And barries want way too much money for them All the old barries say headers and exhausts / electronic dizzy makes them quicker but the tonner did exactly the same 1/4 mile after headers /exhaust/electronic dizzy so it's probably just barry crap. Edit: if you change the timing gears may as well do the cam while you are in there... https://www.aucklandcams.co.nz/camlist/holden-149-202/
  2. how you/brother/dad/uncle/cousin/mate used to have one Had had a nice hq wagon then wrote it off on the motorway - why my mrs is now tougher and cooler than me Your both a catch xo - why big Australian cars with a mix of metric and imperial fasteners are better than silly little European ones that only use metric ( i had to dig out my very limited and mismatched Imperial sockets and wrenches that had been banished to the back of bottom draw of the tool box and put them right in the top bit ) Adjustable spanner doesn't care about metric or imperial - where to get new parts easily/cheaply/locally Ebay has been pretty good for stuff if you are patient - why the second hand stuff on FBMP is outrageously priced and clearly owned by meth head bogans and how to avoid them - tips and tricks for hotting up your 173 using OEM + parts (commie inlet and exhaust manifolds? - the single stromberg and right angled log exhaust manifold offends me!)) Nah m8 get a set of flows and str8frew exhaust and it'll go like a cut cat that's had three of its legs cut off - can you bolt a 202 to the Torana 4 speed? Probably - where to find a nice 202. - why do i even want a 202 (re-rego mainly), the 173 is probably perfectly fine, KPie doesnt really care (unless its a v8), and it wont be the engine from the Torana any more, They are all bags of hammers - where the fuck is the fill port for the CNG system on this car? (its not behind the number plate with the petrol filler)
  3. Condenser arrived today, dougs given his approval Fits in the space nicely, little bit of overhang so I'll need to figure out some shroud /bracket arrangements. From all the the info I found condenser ideally shouldn't be more than 13mm away from the rad so I can keep it nice and close
  4. I went on a barry rabbit hole and found out pretty much all 92-2001 small hondas (b and d series motors) all have the same ac compressor. I noticed the orthia has a nicer shaped discharge (heh) hose, the crv has the same shaped hose so I grabed one from pick a part. It brings the line closer to the chassis rail and away from potential turbo stuff. Found a service port adapter and valve removal tool on rock auto for cheap so got them with some other stuff I had coming. Now low side has a R134 service port, it took me a few attempts to realise I needed to remove the old valve before screwing that fitting on I also grabbed a high pressure line off a ba Falcon so I can use the service port off that or just use the line as sleeve. I also figured out the self install or diy ac line kits use oetiker or double ear clamps on their lines. Once the condenser arrives I plan to chop the crv condenser end off and use the ear clamps on one of the fittings I got off AliExpress. If it doesn't work it was a $30 experiment and I can still use the crv alloy shaped hose and braze a mior fitting onto it
  5. It's the low pressure ac line. Was $250 all said and done. From memory the last power steer hose I had made up was a similar amount
  6. I saw some fittings cheap on AliExpress and they arrived in a couple of weeks which was a surprise. Ordered a bit of tube with the hope/plan to use it as a sleeve It even fits nicely in the compressor Very spenny hose fits and lines up as well The scumbag /barry in me is very tempted to cut the end of the factory hose and crimp or clamp onto the fitting.
  7. High side unfortunately. If low side I'd be tempted to give it a go
  8. Hmm possibly. This does look pressed in or some other wizardry My only worry with master cylinder glass is would it like the high pressures of the ac system
  9. I went to go pressure test my brazed hose the other day and noticed I've damaged the sight glass so I'll need to re make that line or keep looking for a factory one
  10. My other sohc auto beagle is about the same as yours. I'll see if it stays like this for a while
  11. Orthia update. Done a few hundred km since the tune. Turns out more midrange torque/power means better economy. Best since the vtec conversion. The 7.8 L/100 was when it was stock auto non vtec The local ac shop redid the suction hose for me, was a bit more than I expected to pay but it's hopefully done right. I'll get a conversion fitting for the service port and let's hope that's it.
  12. Had a chat to the local ac guys and they can't just re crimp the end of the hose. Need to replace the flexi hose and new crimps on both ends as the hose is a different size apparently. Bit more than I wanted to spend but atleast I know it'll be done properly and shouldn't leak. The sticker shock gave me a bit of encouragement to attempt the rest of the lines I must not be the only honda sicko wanting to reinstate aircon into their ef. Everything had been taken from the ef civic at zebra, I grabbed some lines off a ek civic as they are longer and looked like they'd be usable Among the lines I grabbed when I was at pick a part (fucking cunts for cutting them to degass them) the daihatsu lines had a nice block for the service port and pressure switch. I cut the lines off and drilled them out so I could fit my lines in and make it less difficult to braze them Took a few attempts One side leaked with the 0.5 psi my lungs could generate. Re braze that and the other side leaked so redid that too. Doesn't appear to be any more leaks now A bonus of using the ek lines is they match the receiver drier I already have 'in stock' that I got for the orthia. I don't like the pressure switch sitting on that block by the strut tower. I'll swap the blank off the receiver drier and install it on the receiver drier so it's nicely tucked away
  13. I'll need to get the aircon condenser at least roughly in place with a idea on where the hoses need to go so I can figure out where the turbo and its plumbing can go. I'll most likely need to figure out some shrouds for the radiator etc and the intercooler. Never had an issue with the current radiator with its pusher fan but that is stock power levels and without an intercooler and ac condenser in front. I'll also need to figure out what size fan will fit on the back of the radiator. Depending on where the intercooler ends up sitting I might see if I can get a small fan for one side of it which we can control via ecu if temps get too high I spent a few hours looking through a Air Con catalogue looking at different sized condensers etc. Basically nothing OEM will fit nicely. I have found and ordered a universal 12"x16" condenser which should mount onto the front of my radiator nicely. Will see if I can pop to zebra tomorrow and with a bit of luck the Civic there will have a un butchered high side line from the evaporator to the receiver drier so I won't have to fuck around with brazing a bunch of hoses together I'll leave this link here so I can find it again later (all the fitting sizes etc - http://www.gpdtechtips.com/techtip136.html
  14. @Raizer machined the cast v-band adaptor housing to fit/work with a v-band flange Sat the turbo in the engine bay now the Ac compressor is sitting there and there is more space than I was expecting, even with the stock manifold in place Plan is to have a coupler from the turbo into the intercooler The intercooler should (will one way or another) fit just in front of the vertical brace for the bonnet support behind the bumper
  15. Bum dyno says the orthia has more midrange and it certainly feels nicer to drive. The Mrs says it feels better too Had a few hours to work on the shuttle today. So younger me did think about removing the loom and put plugs inside so it was easy enough to disconnect. Not the tidiest work but its been functioning for 10 ish years like that so I must have done something right. I'll be redoing it all anyway The car is a mess as its storage/I've just thrown stuff in it Rare NZ new povo spec AC delete vent out The EF sedan evaporator bolted in nicely The low-pressure hard line even bolts up nicely I have two options for the low pressure/suction side, I can cut and attempt to braze the hose (with r134 connector) onto the ef hard line. Or see if I can get the flex line crimped onto the EF line and fit an R134 service port adapter
  16. Intake noises sound good (imo) with the vortex / 3d printed intake And final power run. Pretty happy with how the exhaust sounds, first time I've heard it from outside the car Solid red was old tune, dotted green is B16a intake cam with timing optimised. Dotted blue is the doort tube. So the factory airbox/filter is a 3kw drop I'm pretty happy with the midrange gains just from a cam swap. Final numbers were 107.8 fwkw @6905 rpm and 165.7 talks @6072 rpm. Tuned on 95. Static compression ratio should be 10.23:1 with the B18 head (vs stock 9.6:1 with the original non vtec head)
  17. Nothing went bang, 3% average gain overall and a bunch in the midrange. Will upload pics and vids when I get home. Stock airbox is worth 3kw up top so I'll have to look into butchering it or making something more free flowing
  18. Gave the orthia a oil change and quick look over, have dyno booked for tomorrow afternoon. Will be curious to see how the B16a intake cam and new headers compare to the old setup.
  19. So I just had a bunch of injectors tested. Most of them came out as expected. However one set was waaay off. A brand new (been sitting for ages) set of seimens deka FI11445 came back significantly lower than expected. (advertised at 750cc) I purchased them back in the day from a reputable supplier and I have no reason to doubt they are China copies. Seems strange to me that even after sitting the flow could so far off. They are low impedance so I'm wondering if the test rig didn't like the low impedance and was packing a sad or some other fuckery is happening. Has anyone else come across this or had a similar thing happen?
  20. The daihatsu condenser has a built in receiver drier with a dessicant/filter bag. Dig some digging and cross referencing and the filter bag is shared with a bunch of different modern vehicles. Have a r134 tx valve, o ring set and filter bag on the way from rockauto. The orthia ac compressor gas started making sad noises so I've got a receiver drier on the way for it. Will keep a eye on the crv/orthia at pick a part and see if I can find a lower milage compressor
  21. Test fitted the HRV bracket onto the new motor (internet says newer stuff isn't backwards compatible, I did take off the torque mount bolt which would have hit the chassis) Bolted it onto the motor in the shuttle and fitted the HRV compressor The HRV high pressure hose looks like it can be moved out of the way enough to work The HRV Low-pressure hose looks like it'll work and clear stuff, my plan is to braize/weld the HRV hose to the Tail on the EF evaporator The Daihatsu condenser looks to be a similar size to the half-size rad I have in there now, I'll need to get some more of the alloy tubing and the plan is to join it to the EF evaporator side. I'l flip the orientation of the fan on the rad and make it a puller and with a bit of luck the condenser will be able to be mounted to the front of the rad. With a bit more luck the intercooler will fit in front of that Its an easy enough job to fit the evaporator etc but past me decided the holes would be a good place to run the engine loom when I did a wire tuck so it is now a bit of a mission. Past me also deleted all the A/C related stuff from the looms too. I had always planned on redoing the loom, looks like doing the loom has moved up the priority list a bit. I can add in the AC wiring etc and also run the boost control solenoid stuff at the same time There's a little less space than before but now I can figure out where the turbo wants to sit. Also featuring the rare Rover rocker cover I nabbed at pick a part a few years back
  22. Did cap, rotor coil and leads on the orthia today. Sent it through a couple of puddles and got water into one of the ht leads dried it out as best I can but I suspect there was a bit of carbon tracking and it has a occasional miss. Seems to be fixed now. Had a quick pick a part mission looking for ac stuff for the shuttle today. Took a gamble that the ef sedan stuff is the same behind the dash. The ef sedan compressor was r12 and felt fucked when I spun it. I had a look at some other newer Honda and there was a d series hrv which had a smaller r134 compressor and a allow mounting bracket not the heavy cast iron one the shuttle originally came with. Took it off and it bolted up to the earler block which was a win. The original ef ac condenser is a full size unit which won't work as my turbo and intercooler want to live in that space. Had a walk around and found a daihatsu condenser thats half size and should fit with a bit of butchery. Bonus is it has a integrated dessicant/receiver drier in the condenser so saves some space
  23. Laptop for scale. It's not exactly small
  24. Long story short have a working board and solenoid driver Had to play around with some settings in the software as it it's a capacitive sensing switch and not a contact switch. Need to tweak voltage and current settings for everything to register correctly So each key needs to be mapped or assigned a function. The controller is designed to work with a variety of keyboards from this error so there are some unused rows or columns which need to be ignored as they aren't connected to anything
  25. Forgot that I ordered the wrong card connector and was mad when it arrived Then I opened the other parcel Works crazy busy until Feb so I won't be able to do anything until then
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