chris r

Nah if I could be lazy and get away with just using the guibo I would

Which $80 part did you mean? The uj? Issue is the manual gearbag flange is different from the auto. (btr vs Mercedes) So it'd be better to go for a two piece shaft with merc triangle and slip joint etc for the diff on the other end made by a recognised industry specialist? Technically need a cert for auto to manual swap anyway 😉

What's the go with Driveshaft adaptor flanges etc? I had a quick look through the construction manual and only saw driveshaft spacers Would something like this be okay? https://www.benzforce.com/products/mercedes-90-100mm-transmission-driveshaft-adapter?srsltid=AfmBOoqloi4WlYsehMEd6kHQtVsoaNVMtH95AAI0gLs2meChwdjSY3s6 Stock trans has guibo and locating shaft Would be nice to ditch the guibo and have this style uni and slip joint shaft in its place bolted to a adapter on the back of the gearbag

The merc blower from pap wouldn't work with the Honda spinning anti clockwise and the haltech has a few extra outputs so can use one to switch the charger on mad Max style

I know, it does depend on which fuel is being run though

I've got a lead on a healthy high compression 173 which barry said has some trick head work and was built for boost, might be a easier option than pulling and refreshing 202 and putting the cam etc in

The beam spring keyboard is off to its new owner. Was a fun project but I keep going back to the model m as a daily driver. Better let it be used and appreciated by someone else. (and it paid for a gearbox) Update, the absolute legend said he will be bringing it into his office to use

Now I can get wot and actually have the throttle return so that's nice. Seeing as the fan clutch and thermostat are om606 parts I figured I'd get more om606 stuff to match. The tremec fell through so I went for a 5 speed and flywheel out of a w210 Oh and a om602 rocker cover to confuse the barries Yes the 717.xx 5 speeds aren't as strong as the 6 speed boxes but if I double the 662 power it's just above a stock om606 so it'll be fine Spent a couple of hours a pick a part puddle getting a driveshaft out thinking they it was going to work as a doner but the hole centers are different between the earlier and later shafts The auto box must not have liked the extra 1.5 turns worth of power as it'll randomly decide it doesn't like 4th and bang into 3rd when doing 100 Another fun fact is the w210 gearbag does not have a speedo sensor or any provision for one as it uses the abs sensors for the speedo so It looks like I'm going to have to mount a hall sensor and find someone smarter than me to write a arduino code to convert the hall signal to a pwm

I'd hoped the m5. Alix rod ends would have the same size ball as Mercedes /ssangyong but no Ran a die down the shaft And installed it Turns out the locknut hit the injector line so I backed it off

IEC Jaycar have a 90 deg option https://www.jaycar.co.nz/0-5m-cable-3pin-mains-right-angle-plug-to-iec-c13-right-angle-female/p/PS4111

Turns out I'm dumb and didn't remember that the pump is seperate from the engine oil supply so its most likely the original factory fill on the pump being grubby after 260 thousand Gave the pump a quick squirt of brake clean and wipe https://imgur.com/a/qjsRdgZ#xJpjNz4 Gave it 1.5 turns on the full load fuel screw and its less slow now. The random screws and shit I had on the dash for the past month or so actually fell off this time No visible smoke so it'll get some more turns once I fix the throttle linkages

Went to pull the cover off the pump to have a look at turning the screw up https://imgur.com/a/dVPduzR#cz53ZE4 Looks pretty filthy and there was a bunch of paint on some of the screws so possibly the pump has been changed by a previous owner and timing is off? The inside of the motor is significantly cleaner than that pump so who knows.

Had a quick look at the rest of the linkages today and the horizontal linkage to the injection pump has a few mm of play and isn't getting wot at the pump end. There is a also a bunch of paint pen marks on the pump so I'm wondering if it's been replaced in the past chasing the low power which was the intake valve leaking. Have ordered some alix rod ends which hopefully will match up with the mercedes ball ends, will adjust them so full pedal movement is the same as full pump. It could also explain the slight lazy trans shift points and lack of kick down as the tps and Lockdown switch is on the pump not the pedal Once I get a bit more time I'll have a play around with the injection pump and see if I can figure out getting it to deliver a bit more fuel

Throttle linkage kit Ground the back off the original nipple. Ended up needing to drill it out Nyloc and m6 bolt And it's fixed. (by fixed it actuates the throttle and only occasionally sticks on) will get another rod end and some washers and actually have both ends connected instead of the rod shoved in There appears to be no fuel, oil, or coolant leaks so I'm happy with that much. And after all that effort it's no faster. But to be fair to it it's only 88 kw or something when new and I'm used to the 200 ish in the wagon so of course it'll feel slow. Atleast it starts nicer now and doesn't have a horrible diesel knock anymore. Apparently the transmission was serviced but I'm wondering if it had the wrong fluid or its just sad after lugging a boat around for ages

It was meant to be about a hour of reassembly but ended up fighting the intercooler for ages getting the hoses to clear the body and actually stay tight onto the pipes. All reassembled except for the airbox and throttle linkage I was going to attempt to barry glue what was left of the plastic rod end back on but dropped it and it didn't hit the ground so will have to figure out something else

I totally forgot that there are limited 15" wheel options that clear the 282mm prelude brakes I've got on the front the shuttle so didn't click when I put the teddies on so that's a win. Just need to find some cert legal tyres so I can get it certed in both the teddies and the buddy clubs

Thanks I'll remember that for the future, not pulling it apart to check the new against the old. The new springs are actually new and are out of a different merc petrol motor, few people overseas have used them as upgrades when turning boost up on their sohc Om60x engines Yes I know I should have done them all but it is every expense spared, I'll just put more boost in cylinder one and it'll be fine

I needed the carport for the musso marathon so plugged enough of the old loom in to run and it started up on some extremely stale fuel. It's sitting on the lawn now waiting to go back into the carport, in the spirit of actually getting it progressed and trying to avoid more scope creep I'm not going to do the fancy twisted loom and go for the braided sheathing or flexi conduit like factory

It's the most reliable vehicle I own currently so nothing to report. Used it for a parts run to get tools to fix the musso. It's currently got a Washing machine in the back. It'll be back to daily duties this week with cruise control set to 115

Assembled it enough to hopefully not leak fluids. Left the rocker cover off to make sure there was oil flowing and nothing was loose The fuel system is meant to be self bleeding but I cracked the lines as everything was dry and there was a bunch of air in the system Chucked the belt on and it doesn't appear to be leaking oil or water. Got it up to temp and the thermostat opened and heater works so that's a victory. Boratgreatsuccess.gif Still need to refit the intake hoses, intercooler, fan clutch etc but that's enough for this weekend. Now it's firing on all 5 cylinders the muffler might have a accident so I can hear the 5 cylinder noises

Number one cyl got treated to new lifters as I only bought two. Trying to remember the sequence of the 22 head bolts was fun. The two plus 90 deg turns was a bit puckering but went well. Chucked some assembly lube on everything Cam caps on and torqued to spec Turned it over by hand a few times and it even stayed timed correctly Got carried away reassembling stuff and nearly forgot the exhaust gasket I attempted to replace the thermostat but got the wrong one. Looks like the musso has a om606 thermostat and fan clutch. Chucked the original one back in for now. Annoyingly I broke the throttle shaft so will need to figure that out

It's fixed. Well the intake side is I checked the exhaust side and No3 has decided it wants to leak Gave No3 exh a quick lap and it's fixed Head just fell on which was nice Now to battle the pins for the timing chain and hope I don't drop the two m6 bolts for the front of the head down the front of the motor

I put the old intake valve in my drill and the neighbor reckoned it was bent. Will find something flat to check again. No burns or other sadness though Replaced both the intake and exhaust on no1 as I had it that far apart. Old and new next to each other The springs did feel soft but that was just squeezing them by hand and not properly measuring them

Turns out the spline sockets at supercheap are the same as triple square or xzn. Much puckering and safety squints what I loosened all of the head bolts Of course one rounded and it was one of the bolts that were recessed Shoved a rag in and lots of cutting oils and managed to drill the head off After about 4 hours of lapping the new valves (and putting the stiffer springs in to give it a better chance of holding) Moment of truth Time to attempt to get some sleep and I'll see how much has leaked out in the morning

Started pulling it apart again and everything was going too smoothly so I said as much and jinxed it