smokin'joe

On 28/04/2021 at 13:31, Testament said:

I just put alloy spool of wire+ matching size tip in normal mig welder+handpiece. has rolls with different knurl for alloy I think/maybe/cant remember. Plus pure argon for shielding. It works acceptably but its suited more for thicker/structual type stuff because you end up with not enough heat to start with, or enough to start with but it gets too hot quickly. so difficult to make a nice job of anything that is only a short weld. Also you are relying on the arc to blast the oxisided layer off, which with mig means wire going so this also is a factor in shitty starts to welds unless you can run higher amps etc. (i.e. thicker materials)

The other tip with using it in a regular mig is to keep the torch lead as straight as possible.

I never had any issues with brids nests etc. just the aforementioned limitations of the setup

exact wording i would have used

running Migmate 180 with straight Argon and very hard to get an even consistant weld through the torch, as a slight bend will slow the wire down

a weekend meet could be a goer ? beer and snacks or sommit

i am often up during week, but always on mission, as  i fecking dislike CHCH on weekdays !! 

so need to have extra excuse for a weekend visit to get some jobs attended to 

how is the Toyota LN147/167 with 5l-E FBW throttle set-up ?

plenty round an must be rugged as never heard of issues

i too am a frequent southerner, but not permanant,  as i havn't built a toybox yet so i can acquire excess shit at this property as well !!

try Hilton Haulage.

they lifted pallets of concrete blocks 15-20m from truck 10 years ago for me, and shit got way cleverer since

32 minutes ago, jakesae101 said:

quick question , Mine isnt driving the leadscrew the gears are turning but the shaft isnt, it isnt keyed or anything for the gear is there supposed to be a shear pin as there is a hole on both sides that looks like it would suit one potentially.

is the lock on the toolholder jammed /seized ?
will have a look at mine and see if i can find any logical reason

On 26/02/2021 at 14:39, jakesae101 said:

Barrydom unlocked , Granville lathe about the same size as a ml7 obviously whoever had it before the guy I got it off used it for lots of stuff , came with 

3 jaw, 4 jaw , faceplate , dead and live centres, turning dogs, 3 jacobs chucks , milling attachment , end mills , selection of fixed , adjustable and tapered reamers, small boring and threading tools, a toolpost grinder (sadly motorless) , change gears , taper adapters , shop made die holder, twist and centre drills.

 

the only thing its missing is a fixed steady that i need for a job i want to do but im pretty sure one of the smaller generic ones will fit.

awesome, so that's what a tidy one looks like 

@ajg193 now remember, when you end up with mine for a repair,  i do NOT expect it to come back looking like this.

maybe one was re-branded as the other to create 'local content' as many vehicles needed to comply with Govt rules of the day

On 11/02/2021 at 09:31, Kaichou said:

Thanks Moped, I know there are places in Auckland that do the paperwork  but haven't seen any in CHCH. I believe the car will have no issues other than the (possible) seatbelts and the headlights.

maybe try Magnum Compliance/Motorsport  . been importing since day dot, raced and rallied every class including RX-7

@Bling as an E70 coupe owner, do not use anything but the best glue for the windscreen. i cheaped out with mine, and even with a cage, it still flexes like hell.

any screen that is glued in, is essentially a bracing element

1 hour ago, Toddy415 said:

Also if you fold the back seat down in a 1965-1966 impala wagon you can fit a full sheet of mdf flat between the wheel wells. Tailgate and window up nice and protected from weather. So that's always another option.

it has been done with my 80, but it sits on the head rests of front seat.
only do it when i can't be arsed hitching Scruffy the 10x6 tandem on for one sheet

but, on subject, having gone S/H for trailer, and spending  a heap on it... i would build new. mine owes me $2200 ish,, that includes new Trojan under pinnings/hitch / brakes  etc. the $1K i paid for original trailer , buys a heap of steel to get exactly what i needed.

On 10/12/2020 at 09:29, a.craw4d said:

A mate of mine made a few sets by using old worn out adjusties. Ripped the guts out and found an off the shelf insert that fitted inside.  Definitely no race spec build but fine for the street.

there is a Suzuki van insert that fits the common jappo coil-overs.

tried to get replacement adjustable-valve KYB inserts, but JIC/KEI office etc get them custom made from KYB

try onlineautoparts in aussie.

should have various options, and freight is quick usually 3-4 days

price can be less than half my trade discounts for many items

1 hour ago, DoBro Jesus said:

Man semen? 

or Man See Man.................... a gay prowler?

3 hours ago, ThePog said:

It's not too bad as it's a manual. I drove it over Mt Messenger a few weeks back and if dealt with it as you'd expect, slow but unrelenting.

my manual bus is not a fan of hills, needs a split-diff to halve the ratio.

1 hour ago, nzstato said:

4xoverland on YouTube has a bit on turbo a 1hz.  A few dos and a lot of don’ts... run light psi and get and EGT gauge.  Thin crowns easy to pop and overheat if not careful.  Result was general improvement open road driving 

i breifly considered turboing my one, but by the time one acquires bits and matches it up, tunes etc, be easier to find a 1HD-T, and sell mine underground

2 hours ago, ThePog said:

It's a 1hz.

and it's allergic to hills ?

can't remember specs, but Mitsi 4G63 8V sigma valves are an upgrade for T engines. will measure when back home

surely, if the valve springs don't bind, the 2mm shorter will work.
the 5mm longer ones could be shimmed at the head if the caps don't tighten due to installed spring tension


whole lot of ifs, as a lazy old stationary motor not as critical as 10K screamer

drove a 'stored ' D-series firetruck back from Welly when i was at a commercial yard.
big petrol, cost about $500 in juice, at 70km/h max.

had to drive from seaview to blenheim with no cof/reg or decent brakes 

managed to adjust and bleed for COF to get 100% balance for legit drive home

15 hours ago, jakesae101 said:

Theres a engineering workshop in seaview that has a TK with a detroit in it sounds lush as.

 

i had a TK with a Cummins or Cat turbo (can't actually remember as a furniture truck when i first got my HT. governed to about 120km/h , hard to know with the needles bouncing all over the gauge.
got turned into a housetruck then unsure, went Nelson way i think

On 30/07/2020 at 16:22, Griffe said:

The thought definitely crossed my mind, I’ll let you all know what I choose and might do a build thread if I make the box 

what about a sealed electrical enclosure ?

https://www.jaycar.co.nz/sealed-abs-enclosure-240-x-160-x-90mm/p/HB6134

3 hours ago, Hyperblade said:

Yes still old hoop size.

 Working currently on getting sign off from original cage builder.

.

being contact with original builder is the key, from when i talked to tech office

looking sharp
does this still have 38mm main hoop ? did you have any issue with modifying cage members/gusseting ?
last time i talked to MSNZ about my cage, and wanting to add components, they were quite dark on it, but was 3-4 years ago, when the rebuild was supposed to happen.

cheap enough to give it a hoon.

would have had a go on one, but scored a Magmate180 for reasonable price