Muncie

Wurth peddles a massive 1000nm+ Torque wrench i used call the Excalibur it looks look He-mans broadsword it's a old as fuck Norbar design is a bit of cunt to calibrate but a damn good tool. Wouldn't be surprised if they have other old but good designs recreated in ther catalogue.

Snap on are not as good as you'd expect. Norbar are also great and basically rebuildable.

50 minutes ago, Hemi said:

I think @Muncie may have used to calibrate torque wrenches.

Surprised the shit out of most people but Toledo wrenches for cheap occasional work are ok. 

Maybe pay someone to adjust no cert just dial it in would be my advice.

I don't like Teng because the ratchets explode and make you punch things.

Bloody Torque Wrenches I'm getting angry just thinking about them.

Buy a 60 year old Warren & Brown off marketplace they are by so damn simple and accurate design has hardly changed ever.

Off a diesel? 

On 09/11/2024 at 11:58, Roman said:

More displacement will just turn your drivetrain into a noodle by loading it up with low rpm torque.

Maybe a little bigger cam, bit more boost will acheive same thing easier?

There's so many headaches associated with engine machining work, that can often go wrong even if you get the best people involved. 

I reckon there's bound to be a sweet spot for you with factoryish block and the right bolt on stuff. 

Do you have any guesstimates for drag day time / MPH / etc? 

I think I'll be somewhere in the 14s on first shakedown and with standard cams. (assuming I make it)

 

I'm going to say same as you 14s easy 100mph plus easily I've tried using Torque Pro app a few times and aborting run at 200kph due to a corner coming pant shittingly fast. 

Been digging deeper into the PCM and have started tuning the Transmission which shifts almost DSG like now smooth but quickly it's not harsh hopefully this cuts down on heat generation when it's balls out on track.

Also ran some logs and adjusted timing in 2 spots where it was detecting knock and pulling timing for a split second with that done it goes great even on just 6psi. Pulled 10% fuel out below 3000rpm 400mg/c which it loved! And hopefully improves fuel economy.

Mucked around with traction control so it doesn't do the big belly flop instead it now just retries for traction carries on till it finds it which should soften the driveline impact it used to have and allow it to power on through.

Think oil pressure may be dropping off  little so next job is to put a gauge on and if necessary shim the relief valve.

*edit think ive finally hit the peak of my bell curve learning where it takes me ages to learn new things then I shift into get shit done mode and everything happens quickly and takes little effort. am I ADHD probably......

Yeah I've been watching Corn fed boosts channel and RK Garage and have been pestering them both on the pcmhacking.net forum hence my car runs with a bit of help from Rhys from RK Garage.

This has turned a into a bit of 'a word from my sponsors' 

HP Academy was a great help too getting my head around the tuning side. Haha as everyone says yeah its just fuel and timing which is true but changing those in a stock PCM is bit harder.

Then there's all the other cool shit you can mess with like traction control etc.

Interested in this too. Can DBW be set up as a standalone kind of thing? Eg only TPS back to ECU or do you have to have ecu feedback in system........ massive lack of knowledge here.

Seems some of ya got wrong end of stick im not building a stroker just a freshened up supercharged bottom end with ecotec heads think it came across wrong.

This has been a cheap build really a turbo Barra would have cost me way more and i wouldn't have learnt anywhere near as much as everything is off the shelf.

Main goal was to freshen up on my fabrication skills and learn some tuning on a inexpensive engine.

Next engine is a simple combo based on the supercharged L67 block it needs a rebore due to some scored bores so new maybe forged pistons and rebore, then run the ecotec heads. Throw some arp hardware at it l67 has good rods already, did think about forged bottom end but I can't afford a 700hp capable drivetrain anyway so why bother.

Will use the best of the factory gear for this one and lean on it.

11 hours ago, Alfashark said:

Is this a 3.8 or the 3.6?

Autodelta took the alloytec 3.2 (same core as the 3.6) to over 4L in one of their Alfa 159 projects.

Just mean a rebore 20-30 thou over im so old i don't know the metric equivalent. My other block has scored bores it needs new pistons so may as well machine out fit new stock ones open ring gaps up a bit 500hp + on an L67 is apparently no issue all the cool kids in Oz are doing it. 

It's the 3.8. Alloytecs are a very different beast i bought one and pulled it down decided not to go ahead with it.

way to complicated and the stock ECU'S aren't reliable or well supported which would of meant needing a $3k ecu to run it and then the rest of the car would throw a fit. Be very cool though outside my skill set and budget for what I want.

So......... what does it cost to rebore a v6 out next size? Now ive had a taste of turning the wick up i want more so will start looking at throwing new pistons at my spare supercharged block and getting it in.

Im not kidding myself this thing is gonna blow up at some stage.

Thinking ahead to cert time

@cletus has anyone used these yet? Pricey but bolt in would save so much pissing around making one.

Successfully failed WOF because i had a fricken Turbo still fitted..... long story short aliexpress VBands were random diameter  so didn't fit manifold or turbo so that sucks.

Wof guy happy to see as is no issues with my work just wants some extra heat wrap on crossover pipe and obviously turbo and intercooler absent from engine bay for recheck.

Might go buy some Moreys to help nurse through to drag day.

I've already got flat bar we'll order brackets piece of cake!

Now ive got the supposedly 1000hp capable fuel pump in that was basically everything from my hoard of speed parts except the blow off valve that well car goes fine without.

Now it's time to roll it all back to 2023 big exhaust and naturally Aspirated spec so tomorrow the turbo is coming off ready for its visit to a wof shop I've been going to in Auckland since the 90s not for an easy pass but so I can get my old man to run for a recheck if need be, hoping it's ready to go only 2000ks since last wof.

Don't mean to brag but I can do a fuel tank in 20 minutes HMU.

Anyway stick little jet valve in the pump cradle no more fuel starvation......

Was also a little plastic spacer that came with pump to hold screen open. Lesson learned slow the fuck down make sure there's nothing left in box before bolting shit back in.

Sigh. Found a little plastic gubbin sitting on gound that has obviously fallen out as i was manhandling the pump i remember seeing it at base of pump cradle when it was on bench. Haha for fucks sake I'll be an expert by end of this upgrade. Bonus points if you can tell me what it does.

Oh and I'm booked for a wof on Thursday so there's the deadline to be back to running Naturally Aspirated.

There's enough gear on board to diagnose easier with wideband and the computer setup to tell me what's going on.

Have a suspicion new pump may be slightly shorter so just isn't on bottom of tank.

No worries I've fixed harder. 1 change is easier to back track on.

It's doing some weird shit it felt like it was running out of petrol so I put it 50$ in that stopped it but there is a slight surge at full power that hopefully is the fuel reg playing silly buggers with increased flow of new pump. Hopefully the new regulator cures that or its tank out again to see what's going on.

New pump fit the factory pod pretty well wiring was same gauge plug was different soldered the joints and covered using the submersible fuel line that came with the pump as I didn't trust the heat shrink I had.

Old fuel filter on pump was utterly rooted pump itself looked fine.

Managed to salvage the factory flexible hose and reuse on the new pump.

Stop procrastinating and do the bloody fuel pump Dave! That voice in my head got better of me today.

I got absolutely covered in shit and have lightened a few kg of dirt and gravel from back of car.

On 22/10/2024 at 19:24, HumberSS said:

My xcel arc is running like a sack of shit. I wonder if it has a dodgy board in it. I got it serviced and new handpiece and it went a bit better but still really inconsistent. Sometimes the amperage or wire speed  decides to change of its own accord. Sometimes when pulling the trigger it just spatters and fucks around and doesnt strike a good arc. Sometimes it welds really nicely. It's starting to give me the shits. It's a 210 Amp single phase unit. Who's the agent for them?? 

Make sure your tips aren't wrong size flogged out that will do that kind thing.

On 19/10/2024 at 13:09, BlownCorona said:

Do you have an IACV? Might need to open that up a touch at cranking 

As in foot to floor as soon as it catches it will idles fine im not sure IAC will react fast enough also really scared of IAC tables it has more tables than the MAF.

You must have cut the face with the scissors on your Swiss army knife? "They turned out so nice" 

Shameless Allen Millyard pun.......... 

Keep up the creativity love it!