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1Gesus

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Posts posted by 1Gesus

  1. So the ol 1g is running! Still a few issues to sort out. Mainly the ignition timing apparently changing when I turn it off then try to start again... I can't understand how it could though. Freaks me out. Anyway, here's a quick vid, shes a quiet thing and that's with only a dump pipe

     

    • Like 1
  2. Had another look at running the 1ggze cas with 1gge water outlet after seeing d.p.n.s do it. And also because i got this thermostat housing. Credit to mjrstar

     

    DSCF1295_zpsodxbqthr.jpg

     

    But making it all fit is another story. For all the material i had to take off left a hole in the housing, and its still pretty tight

     

    DSCF1307_zpssyzjgcfr.jpg

     

    So now im on the hunt for another 1gge thermostat housing. Because I want my engine bay looking like this:

     

    DSCF1313_zpsoytidp9r.jpg

     

    Maybe you fellas mentioned at the start of the post can enlighten me on the finer details to making this fit without making a hole

     

    In other news, made up some turbo water lines. I'll put a sleeve on the on the goes down in between the manifold. But this meant my turbo oil feed hard line no longer fitted. 

     

    20160226_174053_zpscz10mrha.jpg

     

    20160226_173829_zpsblmh7xrm.jpg

    • Like 3
  3. Last bits of tube bending done on fuel system

     

    DSCF1262_zpsunvceqko.jpg

     

    DSCF1268_zpsttufxhi5.jpg

     

    For the vent, I've run a nylon tube up the pillar across the top and back down the other side. Wasn't too sure on the industry best practice with fuel tank venting. This should be OK I hope

     

    DSCF1269_zpsidmzgy8w.jpg

     

    Not too keen on the colour of these fittings, reckon they look out of place.. should of got black ones I suppose

     

    DSCF1277_zpsgta2ad3s.jpg

     

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    DSCF1276_zps3oqkeyfy.jpg

     

    DSCF1275_zpscwhzrjnz.jpg

     

    Cooling system is pretty much sorted. I've kept it really simple, no heater etc. Only one line returning from the back of the head. Have decided to ditch the idea of running factory oil cooler, so I plugged that hole in the block. This motor was already setup to run without it. Looks like a restriction anyway.

     

    DSCF1283_zps0hdae7by.jpg

     

    Welder had a hard time with this. Quite shite material apparently. Couple pin hole leaks unfortunately, should be easy fix though

     

    DSCF1294_zpsyyvvoryf.jpg

     

    And then theres this.. pretty tight fit. Won't come off now. I'll put this adapter in if it proves unreliable being so stretched like that.

     

    DSCF1291_zps13ezstsl.jpg

     

    DSCF1293_zpsmrhh9n3s.jpg

     

    New page would be good

    • Like 6
  4. Its pretty important to swage it correctly. We find so much stuff on the plant where I work that has been done by lazy cunts or dudes who have no clue. I was working on some shit and a tube let go next to me because someone hadn't swaged it right. Next thing there's 100 bar of steam venting to atmosphere, I'm lucky I didnt get my face burnt off lol 

     

    But yea its good stuff

    • Like 2
  5. My motor has a breather on each cam cover and a block breather from previous owner... maybe a bit overkill?

     

    also how important is it to run a line back to the intake? Because I see a lot of people who just have a filter on top of the catch can

  6. Been making some progress / spending money

     

    The start of the turbo manifold. Not my work... Getting a certain company from Hamilton to do it. They got pretty close with the turbo position here, from a few photos and measurements I sent them. But it needs some changes. I also put the don mega 1g in

     

    DSCF1166_zpslslrqidy.jpg

     

    Turbo sits too close to the head and distributor

     

    DSCF1140_zpsents2vea.jpg

     

    DSCF1142_zpsdzgjzouo.jpg

     

    DSCF1137_zpsbkulhatb.jpg

    Heaps of room for the down pipe

     

    DSCF1145_zpskztkoqjg.jpg

     

    One T3 flange width out put the turbo in a good position

     

    DSCF1159_zpslc0sgx3o.jpg

     

    DSCF1158_zpsztcacxmq.jpg

     

    Got a radiator. Cut the wings off

     

    DSCF1161_zpsywsprrih.jpg

     

    Trimmed some of the top rad support away. I was hoping to drop it down a bit further so it would tuck in under the lip but that will require more cutting.

    Top hose will need some tight radius bends and new flange from thermostat

     

    DSCF1165_zpsgn8ndwja.jpg

     

    DSCF1164_zpsmdneyjts.jpg

     

    Also got a set of coilovers from MRP along with there RCA's. front springs changed from 8kg to 10kg

     

    20150309_190957_zpsgkbnpye4.jpg

     

    All is not well though as i'm still having issues with the POS hilux diff. Cant even put these bad boys ^ in the back because of the mounts being on kook angles.

     

    Over and Out

    • Like 7
  7. yea seems like it is welded on wrong. but if it was way out it would be hard to bolt the link to it, assuming the other mounts are in the correct position. But the diff goes in pretty easy.

     

    I'm trying to line up another standard diff to compare against. probably a ke70 one. pretty sure there the same 

  8. if you lower the roll center at the back you need to do it at both ends .

    all this does when you lower it will make the back springs softer and make the car squat in take off

     

    I don't quite see how making the bar flat at a certain height will make the springs softer..

     

    Anyway, got more serious issues. This diff isn't right. Who has a jig for ae85/6 rear diff mounts? Or who in nz is  a pro at doing hilux diff into ae85 conversion? 

    I need to get it checked and fixed.

     

    The lower rear shock mount is on a big angle and more so on one side. Which is the same mount that connects to the trailing arm

     

    DSCF1125_zpsxxt9ofhv.jpg

    Other side

    DSCF1131_zpstusizp3f.jpg

    new shock wouldn't go on if i tried

    20150304_174019_zpslwsas4a5.jpg

  9. The ae85 panhard diff mount needs to be welded to the hilux diff. I will need to modify the mount (not much) to clear to the bigger diff center.

     

    What is the best angle for the bar to be on or should it be ideally be horizontal?

     

    The car will probably be quite low so i was thinking if im going to modify it, I could space the mounting point down on the diff to have the bar horizontal when lowered.

     

    Or go to the next level and make multiple mounting points at different heights...

     

    Am I on the right track?

     

    20141217_180144_zps4cc49f38.jpg

     

    20141217_180104_zps3b5d140d.jpg

     

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