shrike

I've got Unimig gear, havent had an issue but I don't use it that often

https://unimig.com.au/product-category/equipment/tig-welders/?pa_welding-processes[]=ac-dc-hf-tig

Not sure if they sell it in NZ though

Assuming your going to tig up the hole? I have the feeling its not going to be a fun job

2zz-ge into an echo 122kw and 162nm atw, @Romanwhat was your final dyno number?

https://www.facebook.com/100075883510301/posts/288421180363997/?mibextid=Nif5oz

7 minutes ago, Roman said:

Yes, these motors are a bit like lego sets. 

There is the head, itself, then there's another layer up that holds the underside of the cams and rockers. Then cam caps bolt onto that. 
The 1GR engine, unlike the others is actually a valve on bucket engine. 
So, although it would be a bit of an engineering exercise. Not impossible to design a completely different cam/rocker arrangement that bolts on top of the head.

However there are also some intermediate options like just designing some lighter rockers, or whatever.

Was doing some reading (I'm in the airport waiting to board) 

Apparently solid lifter conversions would allow circa 500rpm more (if the hydraulic lifters have issue) but would reduce cam duration so would need lager cams to compensate.

And fully agree on weight reduction helping to reduce mass/friction at higher RPM 

Been interesting reading about if certain engine parts will be able to lubricate correctly at the rpm your aiming for.

Are you planning on opening up the bottom end and doing any mods or is the plan to just run it stock and see what happens? 

1 minute ago, Roman said:

Shimless buckets in the 1NZ. 

I think (?) rockers means you can have a more aggressive ramp rate as you're not limited by diameter of the bucket. 

But, on the whole the type of rockers present in GR motors seem to be troublesome / not ideal.

Any valvetrain conversion options if it's the limiting factor?

Do you need to have the oil distribution block on the sump to be that size? Could you make it lager off to one side and tap for fittings off to the side instead of have it out the front? Or do you need the lines to be from the front?

2 minutes ago, BlownCorona said:

nah you aint missing anything lol. typical slimy car dealer cliché in action. 
 

I didn't realize people that slimy still existed, though I guess if you have someone uninformed going in to buy a car its easy to not get called out

2 hours ago, BlownCorona said:

this is the plan, im wondering if you can pick the above dealer. its the only one ive seen doing it. 
i dont actually plan to buy from them, i just wanted to see what they would put in writing lol. 

the above outfit also claim that Nissan say only 0.01% of leaf batteries have failed, and the ones that did have been from external impact. seems like overt bullshit but interested if you know of any substantiated claims? 


 

Next to free to run is very misleading as circa $5 per 100km (depending on charging location based of say 22ckwh at home) while cheaper then petrol is not next to free, also are brake pads and at a longer interval rotors not considered a maintenance item? Long term suspension would need replaced at some point surely 

Doubt a leaf with 300,000km is on the original pads/rotors, and id be questioning if its got original suspension 

Or am I missing something

Can't claim its a factory hole then? like the one to the left? anyone got a dimple die you could use to make it look more factory?

5 minutes ago, chris r said:

Got some b16 cams and cam gears from the tuner for a good price 

I've ordered d the woodruff keys and will need to find some time to swap them over then can go for a tune and hopefully get some more killer wasps/atleast fill in the midrange dip 

Whats the specs compared to the b20?

How easy/cheap is it to get spare heads for these?

Any cheap dead motors around that you can play with first?

So for anyone interested

Seems my car is weird as it has the Panasonic headunit with a factory reverse camera but no navigation

This means it uses the 28pin and 10+6pin plugs, the navigation headunits are slightly different wiring

None of the off the shelf kits will work but a Navigation one is the closest

I had to move the pins for the camera setup to suit and also remove the Steering wheel control module as my Android headunit can use the signal the car provides as its a resistance setup

Wire both SWC ouputs to the Headunit and it just works after mapping the controls

Center bore hub rings are pretty easy to get whats the size you need?

6 hours ago, Hyperblade said:

Stick with J160, becoming more popular which is good for parts and some amount of crossover with other variations of it is good. It's a good box. And if worried about torque just do the fix the Silvia guys do something internal which I can't remember specifics of.

@Romanits the circlip mod as a base line 500nm or around 400hp, shotpeening is also involved

https://neatgearboxes.wordpress.com/2014/04/16/nissan-silvia-s15-6-speed-gearbox-circlip-mod/

Neat do it over here but im sure someone in nz would

Yeah wasn't willing to wait on Aliexpress and my car is a newer model then what you've posted.

Needed a few features to keep current functionality 

Ended up buying an ATOTO A6 PF 7IN 2DIN Car Stereo Radio Wireless CarPlay/Android Auto,2xBluetooth will post some pics when I install it

Should do everything I need and was about 329AUD delivered, should be here in around a week

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/225122300641

Had to buy a new Facia and some adapter cables which was an additional 237.65aud so under 600aud.

I used some Honey vouchers I had as well so got it down by a little more

Facia

And details on the Headunit

Could have got a kit like this but no idea on the head unit and would have lost the factory pocket

Edit for those following at home, had to switch the above camera steering controller for the below as that was for a newer model

Also got the below so I can use the factory USB port in the center console

Also need to stop at the local autobarn to get the below so the radio antenna will work APA75

Hey all not sure if we have another thread for this but couldn't find it.

After headunit suggestionfor my 2013 MY14 Suabru Liberty (Legecy) station wagon

Needs to work with my factory reversing camera, steering wheel controls and have android auto 

Ideally looking for something bang for buck

Assuming I'll need adapter cables so keen for recommendations for them as well.

Will install myself and will get the new surrounds etc 

Thanks muchly

I'd be hesitant to slot flywheel bolt holes, could probably get them welded up and then redrilled though.

How much shorter does the rad need to be for the hoses to line up? Could be worth seeing what other models may fit

1 minute ago, Leone said:

Efi setup would be completely custom. Although doable. Seem like a massive waste of time and effort vs an engine swap

Are you not going to need efi for the swap anyway?

Apparently 775kg stock so 400hp would be nuts power to weight even with a heavier drivetrain.

Assuming it's the 1.6L I wonder what EFI and a turbo could do powerwise on that. Not sure if the factory gearbox would handle much extra power however. The Brumby I think had a similar box in it and took a moderate amount of power.

Edit: later generation Leone's had the EA82 and EA83 1.8L (also a turbo varient) 

Would possibly be an easier update till you build a better option

Curious on the measurement between frame rails. And engine bay dimensions, if it was me I'd probably look at a turbo EJ but a turbo FA would also be cool. Depends on budget and pricing/availability of parts.

5x114.3 and big brakes would also be on the list depending on how much it weighs however.

Assuming these are solid rear end?

11 minutes ago, Roman said:

I whole heartedly encourage graphs and wild specualtion 

Got it upto about 400Kw with everything maxed out lol

So I'm still tipping 200kw+ not sure what the factory rods are like, but not sure if they will do 10k rpm guess it depends how heavy they are and how well its balanced from factory

I am assuming you'll do valve springs as a minimum and be going for custom exhaust/headers might even crack 220kw atw (would love if it got more however :p)

Whats the harmonic balancer/engine dampener weigh? and are you going to run many auxiliaries on the motor?

I've been having a play with the Automation game and well some of the figures aren't super realistic it can be an ok guide/indication sometimes

Couldn't get down to 83mm bore (84.4mm smallest I could go) but with cast rods/pistons it was happy with 8400rpm, would say 9k with the smaller bore is reasonable

ITBs, exhaust etc (with springs) it did 270kw at 10k rpm lol which Im not sure about, might upload something later if you want a laugh?

18 minutes ago, GARDRB said:

What filament are you gonna print the sump with? Carbon moooshed overtop of it?

 

Yeah think the ebay listing is wrong. Also don't BMW use plastic sumps 

You can also look to go remote oil filter, probably worth adding an oil cooler as well. 

Is the oil filter built into the sump? 

Front/custom sump maybe the way to go. Could you 3d print a sump and then get sheet metal etc to weld one up?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/325352398654

is this one different from yours? 

Actually how different is the bolt pattern on the sump if you wanted to run it backwards, (could always modify the pickup)

Modify or use and adapter to run the sump as a front instead of a rear?