shrike

8 hours ago, Roman said:

It is tantalizingly close. 

I probably could have done that a week ago.
Except for that I've been in the South Island for work, and we found a second hand garage for removal that is a significant upgrade over the tiny one I've currently got.
(New one 9x6m 2.4 stud height)
So have had zero free time for car stuff.

I'm picking up the last of it tomorrow, then hoping to do some carina stuff in the afternoon.
I want that start up damnit!







 

New garage looks the goods will be nice to have some new space I'm sure, not quite tall enough for a clear floor yeah? 

So is it ready for a no exhaust start up? :p

Any plans for heatwrap or ceramic coating?

Looks the goods, what does the slushbox take powerwise?

Aliexpress and Temu have jets for sale at reasonable pricing 

Vvt is on the intake side right, what's the exhaust cam like in say the ZL-DE? Is it worth swapping the exhaust cam over? 

Guessing the intake cam is specific in the ZL-VE or could you use a cam from the ZL-DE or am I thinkingof the ZM-DE, I was reading about ZL-DE/VE or  heads on A series blocks and thought dual Exhaust cams might be an option? 

@Romanso injectors, new rad hose and you can get it fired up? 

1 hour ago, Roman said:

At the moment I was just working on the basis that the V10 has 10 cylinders and makes 500hp, so 6 cyl worth of injectors should be 300hp capable no problem. 

However has rpm goes up, you need a slightly bigger injector to make the same amount of HP. As your deadtime gobbles up an increasing amount of your available time to spray.
 

550cc would give you headroom for e85 or are you just looking at running pump gas?

3 minutes ago, mjrstar said:

i bet there are piles of falcon injectors from turbo barras that have been upgraded, even the non-turbo ones might be around 300cc?  but DYOR

They aren't long pintle, also they are the same injector as the non turbo just with higher fuel pressure 

Evo X or Lancer Ralliart (4B11T) factory injectors 550cc 

Mitsubishi Lancer non turbo 07-17 to  are 232cc at 47psi fuel pressure in the 4b11 motor 

4b12 might have slightly larger injectors but I can't find CC rating 

Toyota 2ARFE injectors I've read arr 370cc 1ARFE Injectors may also be of use

Do you not have 2GR injectors? Though they are meant to be something like 287.7cc

Might help

https://www.mr2oc.com/threads/fuel-injector-for-2gr-fe-finally-solved-500hp.423814/

Should give you a few junkyard options I'd say 2ARFE might be the go

Edit @Roman

1GRFE injectors are 370cc

2TRFE (Hiace/Hilux 2.7) are 315cc

Are you going with the general rule of thumb on a 6cylinder that it's roughly 1hp per injector cc on pump fuel at the crank? 

53 minutes ago, kpr said:

from the sds on their site ^

I can probably get something similar to that off the still, good to know

Whats in the e100? 

Wholesale neutral spirits (96-97%) are pretty cheap (or they are over here) 

I can make it for about 50cents a L so always been curious on if I can use to as an octane booster 

Could you just powdercoat the battery box or paint it etc?

I suspect for your power levels you probably have enough airflow, esp when you see cars like civics with half rads running 300kw etc I agree with the above comments install it the easiest way and then mod if needed

But with proper ducting I think itll be ok

@Roman any idea how much airflow you get through the space youll have? Assuming youll be sealing the radiator and running ducting/shrouds etc do you have some measurements of the holes that will let air into the radiator?

If your mounting it further back is it worth running a duct from under the car as well?

With Dual fans running as needed you might be ok with the space available even if hard mounted guess it will depend how much restriction there will be 

@Roman 

So much lathe for the money

Way to big for my needs sadly and would be a problem to move 

@lorisk Dave considered just adding a turbo to the 4D56?

3 minutes ago, mjrstar said:

The Evo head swap can be done, but it's not that simple...

 

Vr4 6 bolt has reasonable provisions for a rwd engine mount arrangement.

 

Vr4 block is narrow bolt pattern though correct?

Hi Dave

Remind me do the evo 4 4g63 motors have holes in the block to bolt engine mounts too? 

From memory the 4d56 uses the Wideblock Bellhousing Pattern that was commonly found on the Mitsubishi 2.6L 4g54

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_Astron_engine

You would need a wideblock 4g63 block for it to work

From memory the sohc rwd 4g63/4g64/4g69 motors for the petrol utes (mitsi/greatwall/haval) are also wide block.

Though it wouldn't be hard to grab a spare gearbox with one of these as well if your pulling a motor anyway

Any 7 bolt 4g63 block should take the evo 4 internals and pretty sure you can swap an evo 4 head onto any of them (4g63,4g64,4g69)

12 minutes ago, Roman said:

I guess I need to see if it actually makes any power before getting too carried away...

Once you drive it the first time you can see how noticeable it is and then swap diff etc plus an opportunity for graphs

Is there any go fast bit options? Other then turbo/injectors/tune 

Crank to far gone to grind and run oversize bearings?

Stroking or compression tweaks?

Is yours FWD or AWD?

1 hour ago, yoeddynz said:

It's all in the build thread in great detail. Too much to type here. 

Excellent I'll go back and find it

1 hour ago, yoeddynz said:

Yeah I'd honestly be happy if its still got 100bhp at the crank. Its that 110lbft of torques I'm interested in and really the whole thing is more about the sounds and look of the setup. 5 speed box and higher diff will be an added bonus so long as it doesn't spit the dummy being used in reverse.

Putting the box back together is the next job after this cooling check and tune.

It's just swap the (sorry if wrong terminology) ring gear on the diff so it runs in reverse yeah?  Or the carrier?

Any gearbox tweaks for dual spinning or anything like that? 

Whats the Motor meant to make powerwise?

1 hour ago, ~Slideways~ said:

Hard to really know the quality control just looking at it I reckon, except for maybe crappy casting and machining.

I once had a T3/04e type chinese thing, it spooled well made good power. But lasted about 1000km's, the thrust bearing appeared to be made out of very soft brass and it wore away fast then ate the compressor wheel. The journal bearings looked ok. If I took it apart I wouldn't have been able to tell the quality of the brass. 

This was ages ago though so maybe things have improved.

On the other hand I have a Kinugawa td05 on my Safari, after a bunch of research on Ausy 4wd forums and it has held up really well. That was a reasonably expensive 'knock off' though I guess.

 

 

 

 

I was more meaning make sure no shit that hasn't been cleaned out and everything balanced and put together torqued up etc

They tend to be older design turbos and the main downside can be as you said materials or quality control from an assembly perspective