shrike

1 hour ago, Roman said:

Got 4.02l per 100km on way to Auckland today. 

Better economy then my CBR500RA I get 4.5L per 100km with mixed driving 

27 minutes ago, keltik said:

I believe those m5 ones grenade constantly which is why they are so easy to buy.

Good to know glad I didn't buy one then :p keen to see what DBW ITB pop up for cost effective pricing

Last E throttle/DBW I was looking at were the BMW option for ITB

https://www.efihardware.com/products/3236/dbw-actuator-motor-bmw

They come on M3 E46, and M5 BMW's from memory

Bike wise not sure these days but alot more models have come out with e throttle, pretty much anything 1000cc plus might be worth looking at

1 hour ago, Roman said:

Okay soooo 
The wool tufts dont go mostly up or mostly down, just mostly just nearly flat towards the base of the windscreen but with lots of wiggling around. 
Maybe because the open area is so large, it can just equalize the pressure top and bottom no problem. 
Doesnt seem particularly conclusive, but maybe it needs some more context with more dangly bits on surrounding areas.
Or maybe I should just fit a pressure sensor under the bonnet instead, as that's the real issue (or not)

I think the real issue is that you don't have enough wool tufts over the whole car, and your current results are clearly inconclusive

19 minutes ago, Roman said:

I think "it depends"

If you have a long flat bonnet and a steep upright windscreen. Then its more likely to be a high pressure area there. Which is where cowl induction works good.

Echo has a tiny short bonnet, and a very shallow angle from bonnet to windscreen. Similar to the rally car I posted which has its vents right up the back.

What I was thinking is that I will retain the lower half of the drip tray, and add some one way flaps like in baffled sumps or radiator shrouds.

So they only open if pressure in the engine bay is higher than the outlet area.

But for starters I can just have the whole tray out and see what happens with some wool tufts or a manometer.

https://youtu.be/iK23hiI4m-E?t=50

So arp head studs and new gaskets the plan?

Soooo keep winding up the boost until you run out of fuel or something lets go then?

23 hours ago, Roman said:

Another issue I've been thinking about for when I finally get to a trackday.
Is to try tame some of the floaty feeling of driving a bean bag shaped car at 180kph+
Currently all of the engine bay air has to go out underneath.
The drip tray and windscreen wiper area unbolts, so its easy to remove a big chunk that should flow a bit of air out even if it's not an ideal location. 

Might do some wool tuft tests and try see where the air wants to go when the whole panel is missing.

I am guessing that the engine bay air will mainly want to try escape past the wing mirrors rather than going over the top.

Front air diffuser time?

Something like what Barry has?

Could also pick up a spare hood to put some holes in and do ducting to bring air up and out through them (spare hoods only 4 bolts right?)

Do you have enough space to do a duct from the radiator and out the bonnet?

Is there an air duct/dam that goes from the bumper to the airbox/radiator? also having a heat shield separating the pod from the rad may help with temps?

Is there enough space to duct the space with the airbox also out a bonnet hole?

You could also look at an under tray, though thinking about it now unless you made something that just slid in and out it may be too time consuming to just swap over for a track day

Would sealing it in a vacuum bag help? Also if it doesnt tap, im assuming youll just use insets?

I wonder how much hp the exhaust will get you. 

Extra 20hp?

@Romanwhats the trap speed your getting? are the rear wheels the lightest/smallest option? Whats the max speed space savers are rated at and are they a lighter option

@Romansounds like you need to get another Prius engine from the wreckers and build the bottom end with beefier rods and some other go fast mods (cleaning up casting marks etc etc) just don't add any speed holes

Good point on the Nos dry shot, typically when I've seen/done Nos its always been when injectors are getting close to the limit on 4 cylinder turbo setups (2200cc injectors) in saying that these days dual injectors per cylinder is more common

I forget this is N/A sometimes, effectively you've gotten double the factory horsepower which in most cases would be a bar of boost to achieve (general rule of thumb obviously) 

Didn't realize the cost of it in NZ was that nuts, its about $14 per 500g here (but can get cheaper options if buying in bulk etc) though the states is like $3.5usd a lb or $1.70usd a lb if you buy 60Lb at a time

Though I guess if you work it out then at $14 a run its not that cheap as i'd expect you to use a lb per run and $140 per refill of a 10lb bottle isn't cheap

Keen to see the exhaust gains tbh

Id say what about pre intake C02 cooling but as your running ITB it wouldn't be that easy, dry ice on the intake manifold between runs? :p

Still got sound deadening?

So exhaust and a 50 wetshot of Nitrous and aim for a 12.9?

3 hours ago, Stu said:

*cough* NOS *cough*

Would have to be a wet shot into the throttle body's right? 50 shot to start and then move up? 

Any thoughts on tweaking the suspension some more?

Also massive congratulations impressive result, thats with full street trim as well yeah? can always lose some more weight

Interesting thread on 4-1 vs 4-2-1 obviously on a yaris rather then an echo but I suspect youll have similar space constants.

Also depends if your going to run a cat as well

https://yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6941

https://www.andysautosport.com/products/dc_sports__SHC4401.html

Great results on the dyno run

16 hours ago, Muncie said:

So it's single scroll, 2.5" v band mount, was curious if it would be better to run dual gates or not eg one for each bank of the v6.

One massive gate would make plumbing far easier. 

Aiming to start at 14-15 psi with any luck that'll be pretty peppy the block will take that no problem. 

Typically single scroll you just run one and as close to the turbo as possible, twin scroll you generally want to run one per scroll. (with twin scroll you can get away with one per pipe if youve merged pipes before hand)

Assuming your going to do a 3-1 for each bank and then merge two pipes into the vband flange? (if so youll need to do the gate so it has gas from both pipes able to flow into it.

There is a balance between flow and velocity ideally you want more gas velocity to help spool the turbo and then good flow out of the turbo, but you don't want it too restrictive as that can cause back pressure etc

Alternatively I am still a fan of putting the gate on the turbine housing but it can be a pain for packaging (and welding cast isn't fun) 

Main thing with any wastegate is you want the exhaust to be able to easily flow through it when its open and divert away from the turbo, can have the biggest gate in the world but if doesn't have a good flow of gas going to it then its not that effective.

The chinese wastegates can be ok if you dissemble them and do QC/ reassemble them correctly, know a few people who have replaced diaphragms etc with genuine options as well.

Obviously if your happy to spend the coin genuine is the way to go

Cool so 1bar spring in the gate it is then :p

Hope that makes sense, and I am no expert but just things ive picked up over time

Single or dual scroll? 

Id also say a 60mm of single but would probably get away with dual 38mm if running dual 

You can also weld the flange direct to the exhaust housing if you need too

Also typical rule of thumb is you can run double the spring pressure via a controller. 

Ie 5psi spring can run 10psi etc

Tipping you'll need about 1bar minimum to hit 400hp (could be wrong)

Actually, what's your rough EGT and what's the highest temp 3D printer filament you can do :p 

3D printed an exhaust?

So rather then finish the exhaust I decided I needed more engines.

Went to pick a part and grabbed this 4G64 out of a mitsubishi nimbus was a 50/50 on if it was a 6 or 7 bolt, was hoping it was a 6 but based on the mounts etc was sure it would be a 7

And 7 bolt confirmed once the Torque converter is removed, which matches all my other motors that are 7 bolt. Will compare this block to my 4G69 Block and see if I can use the 4G69, can use the crank rods etc either way.

Trying to sort a time to pick up a Hyundai G4CR (4G61) DOHC motor from FB marketplace for $500, its a 6 bolt has no balance shafts from factory and a 75mm crank.

I just want the head off it as a spare but was considering silly things if the 4G64 was a 6 bolt (like a long rod, large piston but small stroke build) for lots of revs and boost.

Still thinking ill keep under 450nm, and I should really finish the exhaust so I can get it done etc

Also considering rewiring the engine bay, dash loom and build a new "factory" ecu harness (will add an extra connector (later model 4G63) and allow it to run things like DBW etc) for when I got to a different ecu

On 22/05/2021 at 13:31, Bearded Baldy said:

Have been delaying going into the garage as i have alot of gear to go through and clean out. Decided this morning to start stripping down the turbo motor i got for the ute last year.

Was told it just needed a set of bearings. That was bullshit.

Crank is shot, 2 out of 4 rods are out of shape. Called it a day and have started looking for bits.

Anyone have a 7bolt 4g63 crank and set of rods lying around? I'm not flexible or pretty but willing to negotiate.

If you are after a small displacement bump the cranks and rods from the 4g69 motors will fit, rods are a little small from the 4g69 but are fine for modest power goals and are from memory lighter then the factory evo/turbo rods

However should be pretty easy to get at most wreckers as they are in lancers and outbacks

Quick one

Got a factory lancer sedan muffler mounted and changed the front pipe, redid the cat and all the exhaust/mounts.

Just need to cut the rear flange off and rotate it down. Add a downturn and an angle to the rear muffler output and the it should be done

Not super happy with the flange on the downpipe clearance to the drive shaft but if it's an issue I'll grind it down.

With a quieter exhaust I'll be more willing to reset the timing again. Plus have another go at sorting the bliss/idle etc

7 hours ago, Roman said:

Nah it will be fine*

 

*until it isnt 

9k is probably manageable (just?) Is it still making power and not peaking at 8500? ( next up dyno chart showing it off a cliff at 8600 )

What do you think the weak link will be next?

Rod bolts? 

Oil system keeping up and bearings letting go? 

Oil pump failure 

Clutch? 

10k I'm not so sure If serious lol

Liked your porting comment assuming it does widen the curve and increase midrange sounds good. Part of me thinks yes the cfm required will increase at lower revs due to less intake restrictions but the exhaust will still limit it. Not sure how much you'll pick up or how much wider to start.

Hoping your going to fully balance the bottom end including the new stronger clutch to allow for the increased revs?

The header/exhaust size discussion I always find interesting and ill admit I am not an expert on it

Obviously got to find the balance between torque (via maintaining gas velocity) and flow for the upper RPM (6500+)

If it was me I would probably look at getting the header piping as close to the exhaust port size as possible, maybe do a 4 into 1 or a 4 into 2 and then 2.5" to the back.

Maybe go 3" if you chuck in some restriction or plan to go turbo later :p

@kpr exhaust design he did for the 4age may work well here as well?

Do you have to run cats in NZ atm?

Wondering how much more gains you will notice if the exhaust is the limiting factor