shrike

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/toyota/diffs-axles/listing/2839812080

Are spare gearboxes cheap? Could always weld the diff up :p

I also replaced the steering rack bushes Have a Manual Turbo RVR loom on the way with 3 RVR ecus. The auto RVR loom I have came with the dash side plugs (with pigtails) and I have a Auto 1.8 GLXI Lancer loom that ill steal the correct dash plugs from so I can make a quick patch loom Means I can get it running on a factory ecu for rwc and rego and then put the Speeduino in after Will need to get an OBD1 (or it might be a OBD11) plug and cabling from the wreckers as I dont seem to have one Need to get the front axles/cvs back in (still need to do one cv boot and put new abs rings on) new tie rod ends, front knuckles, front brakes. Front cross member Bleed the brakes Have to get fuel lines (or I may make some) put the fuel tank back in, which may mean I need to drop the rear end out again :s im getting pretty quick at doing it though. Probably get my fab guy to do some welding next week (depending on availability) Put the steering column back in (as it was clunking when I put it in today so pulled it out again) Sort out the cooling system and intercooler piping, a front pipe for the exhaust. Also the exhaust it came with needs to go as its pretty much a straight pipe (need to buy a cat) Then front end back on hopefully Also discover the engine has no oil in it so new oil for the gearbox, Diff, Transfer case and Engine. (I'll crank it over to get oil pressure up before I start it) Might pull the stump and reseal it before I do so, head looked pretty clean. Not sure if the guy I brought it off dropped the oil or what. I suspect my mate who had it at his place may have done it and not told me

Was a real pain to get the gearbox on with the clutch on :s Top tip remove all the gearbox mounts before you start (not during) Brand new clutch fork (bet my other one turns up now)

So Cracked it and this happened Clutch slave is on need to reconnect the braided line and get a clevis so I can bleed it Starter motor is on, couldn't find one of the starter motor bolts so unsure what the bolt I used was meant to to be on but will work it out later.

Test fitted the gearbox and worked out how the clutch slave goes on Put the flywheel and clutch on Arp bolts to 95ftlb with locktite and the arp grease under the heads Clutch pressure plate bolts to 22ftlbs Aligned with an alignment tool Checked the electrics work, passenger side window doesn't go down. Rear drivers is slow. Dash works, lights work etc and no smoke. Tipping the controls need cleaning/replaced. Ac unit and clock doesn't work so will need to see if I plugged it back in. Put the last of the wiring back to factory, need to work out the starter motor signal Removed the throttle cable as I'll be using an RVR one to match the motor

Public holiday tomorrow so weather dependant planning on sorting a few more bits. Ordered a few more parts from Meek automotive as I can't find my clutch fork and that's what's stopping me from putting the gearbox and engine back together on the bay Once restrictions ease ill go raid the factory fuel lines out of a lancer wagon along with a few other bits. Current thoughts are to get it running and see what it needs for RWC before next steps. Still need to confirm all the wiring works as well

Space savers to go on the rear for drag day? 3 nuts per wheel instead of 4 :p ice on the ITBs? Rear and passenger seat removed 1/4 tank of fuel remove the battery and start with a jumper pack? lower the front tyre pressure to get a better contact patch and increase traction

Used the grease trick to remove the auto Spigot Bush Collar from the back of the crank (its originally an auto motor from an RVR) will put the flywheel, ARP flywheel bolts and clutch on when I get a spare minute. You can also see the brand new spacer plate for the gearbox/starter motor installed Painted some bits Also pressed in new lower ball joints, found some extended ball joints from Fatboy racing that correct lowered steering geometry so will get a set of them at some point. Need to do another coat of paint on them as well (some came off when pressing in the ball joints) Not sure if ill get much more done this weekend but at least a little progress Also most of my parts arrived from Amyama if I hadn't already mentioned Waiting for lockdown restrictions to ease (mainly the 5km rule) so I can go to the wreckers, need to get a clutch master cylinder pin and clevis so I can attach it to my clutch pedal along with some other bits I am missing Fuel lines, emissions gear (maybe) bolt for the fuel tank, bonnet bolts, foot rest Also need to order some hub centric rings (73.1mm to 67.1mm) Considering some more factory wheels too but will see if I can get through a roadworthy without Hesitant to put the motor back in until after I get fuel lines sorted

Few small updates, put the rear end back in last weekend. Set the alignment as neutral as I could based on my limited skill Replaced the rear CV boots Outers are Kelpro CIB-230 Inners are CIB-516 (CIB-519 are for later models) Also replaced the front inner boot, need another cv boot to suit the outer tripod that attaches to the hangar shaft Also gave the rear wheels a spin and suspect its got an LSD, need to pull the diff plate off (need to do all oils anyway) to confirm but considering the other bits it has and the fact its been dragged previously I wouldn't be surprised

Nitrous would get this down the line alitrle faster if you have access? Also with the G4x could you get some larger injectors for cheap (wrecker maybe) and run e85 with lots of timing? From memory 2AZ injectors from a rav or camry are larger 330cc for 2AZ 200 or 220cc for the NZ engines Id also take the rear muffler off

Double post

As per above post you are correct, have now ordered another set locally for 132aud that are 100% the correct item Was worth the punt though and if I do go down the 5stud path (with factory sized brakes) it will be just a new front bearing and a 5x114.3 driveflange/hub into the factory knuckle

So the front rotors I ordered dont fit, seems one hole doesn't line up, trying to decide if I just drill a hole, however the other holes are slightly larger then the studs Im wondering if they are multi 5 (5x100 as well) or 4x100 Out 125aud including shipping but will make for an easy 5stud swap later

So weekend had some progress Painted the top of the fuel tank, can clearly tell I used a paint brush but itll do, considering getting some 5mm foam from bunnings to redo the old ones but not phased atm probably do the bottom tonight and then do some more of the car underside Mate who pulled it out at his place has misplaced some of the nuts holding the pump and sender units in so ordered some new nuts that I hope will fit The fuel pump has a Bosch 255LPH pump installed so should be plenty of fuel for what I want, and I can always reinstall the surge tank and the twin 044s if need be Had another go at the holes in the boot but think ill pay someone to do it as I am failing and just making it worse, so will leave doing the under seal on that section until that's fixed. Have someone who can come do that and the repairs at the front end but has to wait until after level 4 Started doing the under seal for underneath the diff area and fuel tank, will take a few coats to get it to the thickness I want Rock auto package 1/4 arrived today Front Brake rotors, 1 caliper and brake pads (think they are fronts) checked the bolt spacing on the hub and they should bolt up Not sure if I should have put the money towards a 5stud conversion or not but oh well, hoping I am starting to get the final bits to get this car ready for a RWC Went for the cheapest pads/calipers and rotors as they will only be on the car short term, will go back to the AP racing 4pots later on Also hopping the AP racing lines and banjo bolts fit otherwise ill need to get some for the calipers (already have a set of braided lines for factory calipers but would be good to not need to change them) Sprayed some paint stripper onto the rear bumper support bar and did some more wire wheeling, hoping to paint that this week/weekend as well so I can put it back onto the bumper.

Need to finish off the under seal and paint the diff etc before I throw it back in

Just picked up the rear subframe, all welds repaired and a plate welded overtop along with extra welding all around pretty happy for $130

Rear subframe/diff cradle dropped off to the fab guy who is going to reweld and strengthen it so it doesnt break again and aslo give it a coat of paint for me. Said itll be probably around the $150 mark so I am pretty happy with that as a new one is around $800 from Amyama and for that price id spend the extra to go down the racefab route with a 3000gt diff and custom driveshaft shop axles. Means now I now need to pull my finger out and finish doing the under seal, the fuel tank, replace the rear axle/cv boots (the tripod bearings feel sloppy so might need to rebuild the whole thing if I can find parts :S) and finish off the spare tire well.

Rotors I am getting are Multistud, will be going 5 stud down the track as well (looking at Rotor options for my AP racing calipers in 5stud or getting a new hat made as they are two piece) Also more then happy to drill holes for 4 stud if I need to anyway :p https://www.apcautotech.com/part-detail/12146032?year=1999&make=mitsubishi&model=eclipse The same rotor is listed for the Galant vr4 due to the multistud Could also go for the fancy ones but they are 100 more and tbh I am happy with factory style https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4417746&cc=1356634&jsn=275 Pulled the pin and ordered, saved about $100 to buying locally and means I get new front Calipers instead of 2nd hand ones that need a rebuild, also cant source brake shims here anyway. Spent way to much on shipping but oh-well, don't need anything else for a while from the states and it is heavy parts. Need to get back to the fab guy to sort the rear end before I can paint it and put it back in Have a clutch firewall brace on the way from Malaysia as well to stop firewall flex, could have made one but worked out cheaper to just buy one that fits Thinking about getting some smaller wheels but not sure what to get, I actually like the Koya wheels I currently have but they really need to be 7" wide instead of 8" as I won't be running anything bigger then 215, may need to get more factory style/size wheels for RWC but will work that out when its ready to get inspected and has been looked over (sure ill get a list of things to suss) But if I get new rims I would want to go 5 stud anyway :p

Weather this weekend just been was pretty shit so didnt get onto the car, Brewed another 28L beer though so got that fermenting away (still need to finish cleanup, everything is washed etc just not put away) Ordered a new Proton Wira front end as a spare (220aud shipped so not bad) spent some time on Sunday going through Rockauto and matching up parts from 1993-1995 Mirage (1.8L abs) Rear rotors, Rear pads, Fuel filter, Air filter and rear caliper shims 1993-1999 Eclipse or Talon Front Rotors, Front calipers (twin pots) and Front pads Haven't ordered yet as still deciding, specifically when its 4 packages, but $680 with shipping wasn't terrible, I have big AP racing 4pot calipers and twin piece rotors currently but they are going to make getting the car legal hard so will take it back to factory for now. Already going to be fun getting it legal with the 4g63 and coil overs but will deal with that later Also can always resell/use down the line the front brake setup if need be (people want 300aud for just the calipers over here :s) Yay money pit lol still waiting on my Amyama delivery

So just a silly question but are you bolting it to a table before you take the stiffener out so nothing moves/flexes?

Rear subframe that ill get repaired, have a fabrication shop quoting it atm Other side isn't great either so might get both redone Have had my steering rack bushes arrive Going to clean up all the other rear bits this weekend all going well (if the weather is good Ill do the last of the boot/rust/underside work and do the underseal) Hoping to have the rear end back together over the next few weeks, need to restore the fuel tank as well, want to get the underside sorted so I can put fuel lines etc back in Still waiting on parts from Amyama and will need to order more, holding off till after I get a better idea of what else I am missing Lost a rear brake pad shim clip which I need to find other wise ill need to order some more of them too

Few other fixes, need to clean up the back as well and then alittle bit of metal bog over both sides and smoothed out before I put some primer over the top, bottom will get some septone chassis paint (same as the wheel arches) Holes to fill

Current state As you can see it got slightly larger with blowout (think I didnt let the metal cool enough between tacks)

Cleaned up with a carbide bit, tired to get it to perfect and then redid it a few more times, kept having blowout