Benno

So my escort failed its wof on holes in the exhaust system. I had previously put a bandage on there, and got through again with some exhaust putty but have decided that I should get it sorted properly. There is rust in both the pipe and rear muffler, so it's probably not worth just patching up. I'd like to learn a bit about it and make an informed decision instead of just taking it to an exhaust place and getting whats cheapest. I did a search and couldn't find much explaining exhaust systems in detail. I already have a set of Coby extractors fitted. I don't want something loud and droning, but wouldn't mind a bit of an exhaust note as long as it was a reasonable volume and didn't drone too much while at cruising speeds. I will be keeping the 1300 engine in it for the forseeable future, but would like to potentially upgrade to a 1600 in the future. It currently has the factory (1.5"?) system fitted. After looking through some build threads, it seems that 2" is the way to go. There was a noticeable difference in both economy and performance after I fitted the extractors, am I likely to notice anything similar with a new full system? What is my best bet for a muffler? It currently has a main muffler, then either a small secondary muffler or resonator. Is sticking with two the best bet, or would a single larger one be better? Is the muffler better to go closer to the engine or rear of car? Any types or brands better/cheaper then others? Is a flexi-joint necessary? If so, i guess it would go straight after the extractors to counter any engine movement? Any ball park figures as to how much I should expect this to set me back? Cheers

Thanks

Anyone?

Are any OS GCs in Christchurch interested in doing a cash job for painting a car, or know anyone that is? I've got my escort panelled and prepped ready for paint, is currently sitting in primer. Unfortunately I don't have a garage anymore, and can't justify the cost of compressor, mask etc for one job. I have already bought the paint (2K white). All I need is for it to be masked up (I can help with that), and sprayed. Prep is already done, and I will sort out polishing etc at a later stage myself. The prep work isn't quite perfect, so I'm not really expecting a show quality paint job, basically if the paint is on evenly without any runs I'll be happy. If anyone is interested, my contact number is 027 3420024. Cheers

A 1600 is more of a long term goal at this point. Definitely going to keep en eye out for one, but unlikely to have time/funds until at least the end of next year. I'm focussing on getting the car prepped for painting this summer while living with the rents as I don't have a garage/shed at my flat in Chch. Got the carb now as a bit more performance now would be nice, and I can always bolt it up to the 1600 when I get it. Yeah, that would be great. I'll pm you when I'm up in Christchurch next.

So got the carb and manifold fitted up today. Runs alright, but a bit of a hesitation when I put my foot down, and not as much difference as I was expecting. Guessing some new jets are on the cards? I'll give the guy at weber specialties a ring tomorrow.

Brilliant, greatly appreciated

That second link gives me an error, "We're sorry, you are not authorised to view this page. Please log in again."

It's for an escort. Thanks k-trips, pretty sure that's what I'm after

Anyone able to tell me what the paint code is for Ford Carnival Red? It's for my escort, wanting to stick to the same red as was available from factory. Guy at the paint shop couldn't find it on his computer for some reason. Cheers

Awesome project man! I too would be interested in having a look at the code if thats all good. Just interested in seeing how you did it, not going to go round distributing it. Everyone seems to love to hate matlab, but once you get used to it its actually not that bad I reckon. Seems to be the standard for engineering simulations etc anyway, so worth getting used to.

I was meaning more along the lines of taking it apart and swapping them out, not just fiddling with the adjustment screws.

Right, so I've got two_days_late's old Weber 32/36 carb and manifold on the way. It's from an Escort 1600 GT. Will it be simply a matter of bolting it up and giving it a tune? Or will I need to play around with the jets to get it to run nicely?

So now I've had a bit more time I've got stuck into some work on the car. For starters I put in a new head unit, the old one was making crackling noises with aux in and just generally being gay. Also got some cheap kick panels and had a go at making some speaker pods. Came out alright, stick out a little further then I would prefer though. Fixed up the bit of rust in the spare tyre well and painted the boot black. Looks a lot tidier now. Didn't want to pay big money for a new boot seal, so grabbed a couple from Pick-a-Part. Fits almost perfectly, and certainly beats paying over $80 for a new one. Starting to get into getting rid of all of the dents and scratches. Currently the paint job is a classic case of good from far, but far from good. Still undecided if I want to keep the chrome trim on it or not. Thoughts? If I do end up keeping it, anyone know where to get these clips from? Not sure whether to keep it white or do a colour change, potentially to red. Door jambs and door inners aren't in all that great condition anyway, so will end up being a similar amount of work regardless. What do you guys reckon, keep it white or something different?

Bantam, how much do you want for your rebuilt one?

Also, how hard would it be to rebuild/rejet a carb for someone who has never done it before? If its a bit complex for a beginner, what sort of price would I be looking to get it done by weber specialties?

Cool, thanks. So what exactly is the difference between single and double pumps, and how do you tell them apart?

Hey guys, I've decided the next thing my car needs is a better carb. It's a 1300 mkII escort currently with the stock carb. I'm planning on eventually dropping in a 1600 so don't want to get too carried away now, but could definitely do with a bit more power and a carb seems like a cheap and easy upgrade which could eventually bolt onto the new engine to begin with. I've done a bit of research and it seems that a Weber 28/32 or a 32/36 is probably my best bet. Anyone got any advice on this? Do I need a new manifold, or could I get an adaptor milled up to bolt onto the existing one? If I do need a new manifold, is just any crossflow Weber downdraught setup suitable or do I need a certain type? I was hoping to spend somewhere in the region of $200-$300, is this a realistic figure? If anyone has anything suitable for sale pm me please. Any guidance or tips would be awesome.

Discussion Thread Project

Modifications so far consist of fitting electronic ignition, head unit, alarm, central locking and a set of Coby extractors. Massive difference from stock manifold.

Hey guys, been lurking for a while and thought I should get around to posting a build thread. I bought my Escort about 6 months ago. Previous owner had bought the car from new and drove it until he died. Only 136,000kms, a lot of which were at highway speed between Chch and Rangiora. Interior was in great condition, body had a few scrapes but nothing major and was basically rust free. Probably going to be pretty slow progress to lack of funds, but will hopefully get painted over this summer. Discussion thread

Gave shorting the ballast a go, didn't actually help at all. Even once it first fires, it kind of coughs and splutters its way into life whereas previous to adjusting the timing it would start smoothly. Unfortunately I was stupid enough to not mark where the distributor was previously set to, so can't revert it to check. If I'm right, when the solenoid is switched on (starter turning over) it automatically shorts out the resistor? I measured the voltage across when it was turning over, and it was definitely higher then when it actually started. I will replace the coil soon anyway, but I am fairly sure that the fact it has a ballast coil & resistor l isn't really affecting things too much. Appreciate the help.

That makes sense, I'll look into getting a replacement coil. When I had first fitted the electronic ignition, before I messed around with the timing it seemed to start without any issues though. There's a (shit) diagram of how it is currently set up.

Yeah, I removed it and put my finger over the end. So 8 degrees is definitely the right timing? I assumed it wasn't 4 degrees, and 8 degrees seemed more logical to me then 12. Yes, escorts do have a ballast resistor. I have run a separate wire from the 12v ignition wire before the ballast to the electronic ignition module, but the coil itself it still running with the ballast resistor.

Well, I have only changed the ignition timing and fiddled with the idle adjustment, I doubt the idle adjustment would change the starting. I am fairly sure, there are only 3 marks on the block which are labelled 4 8 and 12. I'm almost certain that they are BTDC as it wouldn't be running well at all at 8 ATDC, and as each is labelled I don't think I could have gone too far wrong there.