cheerios

yep sure did, they are on their way to heat treatments now after what they should be x2 as strong then i'll final machine them.

Now the next cool thing you will see is how amazingly this lines up for mounting with the given rules and parts I used. Remember the subframe is from a FD3S RX7 Batman, well the rubber joining mounts im using are hard type JZA80 Supra items (I don't believe in hard/solid mounting engines as its hell on the chassis and the engine itself). I had to drill the subframe holes out from 12mm to 14mm, make a 20mm thick spacer to raise them up and in they went then i got some 6mm steel plate and plated the engine and the rubber mount. Then welded a piece of rhs between the two. Check out how well it lines up, no crazy stretch frame mounts here its almost as if it was meant to be! Cool huh! Heres the finished mount next to a factory Toyota Supra one..... Whats going on in the back ground? Mixing up some bog... Yea who can guess what im going to do here lol File action from a hooded bubble goose

I priced up a few turbo 2jzgte engines and the goin price averaged $4000 hmmm research time. I'd heard a few rumours that the naturally aspirated 2jzge shared a few common parts so after a few hours internet study and shit yarns with people I took a punt and went and found a good 120,000km naturally aspirated motor cheap for $300. I striped it down and confirmed the exact same crank and rods as the turbo engine the only difference in the block is that it has no oil return for the turbo and no oil squirter's for the pistons. The oil return is an easy mod and the oil squirter's as well because the block already has the oil galleries and only requires the 6 m8 holes drilled and taped in the crank case then bolt in some squirter's from any toyota engine, easy as!! Even the pistons are of the same material and forming technique as the turbo ones just higher compression... if your really cheeky you could machine them down to lower compression and effectively have a turbo bottom end cheap. I cut the hole a wee bit bigger and started making the engine mounts. Shes sitting well back! Rules allow 305mm moving of the firewall or 5% of the wheel base (120mm) from a line drawn through the front spindles back to the 1st spark plug. I choose the latter as it gave me another 40mm.

Thanks! it took me about 60 hours over 3 months, I learnt alot though so other side should take me 20 hours. Still along way to go though but my goal is 2 years.

thanks guys! it owes me about $15,000 so far, i'd hate to think how much it would be had i been paying someone to do it for me! so really its a pretty achievable build. I estimate it will be about $25,000 ~ $30,000 when finished. Sorry KK i wont be here this weekend but Andy Gal will give you a full pine tour of it, i'll be in Sydney at the world time attack

Righty! now all the excitement of finishing the wide body plug and silencing all the doubters along the way (yea f*%$# you guys haha) it was time to return to the engine side of things, been pretty quite on the 3SGTE conversion yeah? thats because I did a wee bit more study and a few calculations ($$$ x Reliability / Hp) I decided the 3SGTE wasn't going to cut it. I would need to sleeve the block work the head and it would still be a potential grenade, money grenade.. Sooo whats better than a 3SGTE I asked myself...

Heres the finished plug straight off the gun Dressed up a wee bit Bumper black touched up

yes a good point you raise there! the Mercedes SLS has an explosive charge in the hinges that detonates and dislodges the door if the car senses a roll over. Check this vid out. Fast forward to 2.15. In this test they drop it on an angle so maximum impact is on the door itself, the charge is isolated for testing purposes. In a real situation its all automatic. The special tool they use to remove the door is just a load sensor so they can gauge how much effort is required to remove the door.

Haha cheers man! You will love carbon fibre bit tricky but sooooo cool when you pop out a good finished product, i gave my mate a hand who does it and its amazing. Especially when its dry casting style vacume moulded , extremely light weight.

Yep thats correct, this is the 'plug' (male mold note the vents in the top of the guard are filled in to make casting a breeze) off this i'll build the female mold which will then come off in 6 pieces for the entire side. Every little defect now is one more snowball you have to worry about latter so it needs a smooth glossy finish. I'll certainly be keeping the molds as im casting the kit in carbon fibre which doesn't have and much impact durability as the old fibre glass. Estimate this side will be 2.5~3kg when finished.

Whos on the gravy stroke and wants to see it covered in tan??? Im getting the pics ready now!

All sanded up now i gave it a quick go over with some 400g dry paper, sprayed on some 2pack primer then another 400g sand followed by 600g dry of coarse NEVER WET!!! sorry if you are a fan of wet sanding with water but i think you are the most retard and should stay away from panel work, WATER CAUSES OXIDIZATION! Don't be a jew, go buy more paper or wet sand with calite (white spirits) wear gloves and respirator to keep the cancers away.

Now the door was trimed up i made the side pod. By this time I'd learnt a few new tricks, high density polystyrene, 3mm mdf board, pva glue and hot glue. Any one attempting this i recommend it!! it takes about 40% the time over card board and wire. It makes one hell of a mess and its more delicate but saves alot of time. I shaped it with metal working files (2nd cut grade) when you bog over it it will reacet and melt as bog is polyester based so you need to seal it with an epoxy resin 1st e.g fibre glass epoxy as i did. Now it was time to lay down some glass, i used epoxy resign and did 2 layers of glass fibre matting. Its strong as fuck, im 70kg and i can do hand stands on the guards. One cool thing about it is its a amber clear colour when mixed and turns blue when its gone off so you know when you can sand it. So it was 2 layers over 2 nights and a sand with 80g to knock any sharp edges or resign strands off. Next up I got busy with some bog. All up i spent around 50 hours on this one side to make the plug from wire frame to 2 pack enamel top coat...A48 Toyota beige as is tradition.

haha i like it goose! i shall inspect.. duno if a ford part will find its way onto the car. Will just make my own pin sleeve quick release ones.

Check out what's arriving on Friday night..

One factory toyota hinge isn't ample mr kk, she aint no holden lol. Needs a reinforced hinge. Yep i checked the regs on the cage/door scenario and designed the cage to comply, not having the side intrusion over half way up the door, its currently under the (with factory door) by 18mm. I do wonder though in by cutting the door would that change the 'half way cage/door' rule in my favour

Haha yep iv thought of that, can you see in one of my pics where the door corner intercepts the guard? I want to cut it there and run it as in the above pick. as thats pretty much where my intrusion bars run. I'll cut it off some time this week and put a pic up and see what you guys reckon, the only thing hindering it is the now mono door hinge. I can make it work but would be the same effort as a gull wing.

Time to shape the rear guard in card board now. Here i am designing the flow off the rear arch, I found this the hardest bit getting the shape nice. Happy with that, now time to add some exit vents. These help pull air out from under the car and also break the air off the side of the car.

I would weld the door shut but im intending on having it street registered so i can compete in tarmac rally and also carbon fibre no weld to good. Ling ling here is a pic of the device we used to flow test the body, we found it highly effective in high lighting areas where lift may be in effect. We found no lift on the body.. of the car.

So once i had tacked the body skeleton strips onto the guards front and rare i set to focusing on the front. Big vent on the rear to draw high pressure out under the car from the radiator and oil coolers. Added some guard vents on top to help vent rising hot air off the tires and brakes trapped in the guard, in theory vortexes over the top should create a syphon effect. Marked out a hole for one of the oil coolers and tub the inside with card as well, when removed it will become a template for .6mm steel for inside the guard. Dummy fitted oil cooler and added some wee canards. You have to paint your cardboard guards so you can get a true feel for the finished look and to water proof them if you cant afford fibre glass any time soon. Also you must take class photo 2012. Grinder and Bubblegoose making a reappearance here, big side pods need the doors to clear them, im going to have to scissor hinge the door so it clears the pod.

yum is that sailor moon? and nope dont recall having come across that gt300 ae86 but holly shit its awesome! I want to do that with my head lights but have decided to keep them period to tie in with the bumpers and to retain some ae86 to it. I love his rear suspension set up. Needs more 2j though The Japanese are so much win!

WIDE BODY TIME!! I love JGTC and DTM and as far as im aware no one has attempted a modern JGTC/DTM body on a older car so challenge accepted! I drew inspiration from my favourite touring cars, GT300 RE AMEMIYA RX7, PAN SPEED Time attack RX7, DTM BMW M3, DTM AUDI A4 and from alot of time spent researching aerodynamic principles. I'd never worked with body mouldings before so i watched a few videos on youtube and had a chat to Simon from Surfab, he pointed me in the direction of nuplex and showed me what i needed. I stated by cutting up a dx corolla roof into 10mm wide strips and tack welding them to the guards. Off this using cardboard I started modelling the guards into the prototype plug mould.

Hey bro, sorry a mate brought the wheel tub and rear chassis rails already for his notch, I do how ever have bottom sections of doors and also a good section of rear guards, all rust free as i'd just finished panel and painting it.

forgot to post this pic of joe rocco barwick aka BUBBLEGOOSE on a routine inspection absolutely off his tits on a pyne lol haha bubblegoose is o.g g.c! Right then so with the subframe all tiged up next was to mount it. The chosen points were the bottom of the chassis rail and the wheel tubs face panels, i'd like to have linked them into the cage down bars but this would put it into sceptical space frame area so to avoid argument i decided under the cage bars on the wheel tub faces will be ideal. Many hours were spent trimming it levelling it and measuring it and in the end I had it square level and parallel within 3mm after welding. Not much that will be taken out by arm adjustment. Now with the frame in I was out of 'free work' I could do at home soooo after some thinking I had an idea... I will leave you with this to ponder..

hahaha very funny guys! female models if you must know And yes good spotting of the v160 on the firewall yes i will be running one of these, 6spd and not to expensive plus less work setting it up etc. I'll get some more pics up tonight