cheerios

yep sure did, they are on their way to heat treatments now after what they should be x2 as strong then i'll final machine them.

Now the next cool thing you will see is how amazingly this lines up for mounting with the given rules and parts I used. Remember the subframe is from a FD3S RX7 Batman, well the rubber joining mounts im using are hard type JZA80 Supra items (I don't believe in hard/solid mounting engines as its hell on the chassis and the engine itself). I had to drill the subframe holes out from 12mm to 14mm, make a 20mm thick spacer to raise them up and in they went then i got some 6mm steel plate and plated the engine and the rubber mount. Then welded a piece of rhs between the two. Check out how well it lines up, no crazy stretch frame mounts here its almost as if it was meant to be! Cool huh! Heres the finished mount next to a factory Toyota Supra one..... Whats going on in the back ground? Mixing up some bog... Yea who can guess what im going to do here lol File action from a hooded bubble goose

I priced up a few turbo 2jzgte engines and the goin price averaged $4000 hmmm research time. I'd heard a few rumours that the naturally aspirated 2jzge shared a few common parts so after a few hours internet study and shit yarns with people I took a punt and went and found a good 120,000km naturally aspirated motor cheap for $300. I striped it down and confirmed the exact same crank and rods as the turbo engine the only difference in the block is that it has no oil return for the turbo and no oil squirter's for the pistons. The oil return is an easy mod and the oil squirter's as well because the block already has the oil galleries and only requires the 6 m8 holes drilled and taped in the crank case then bolt in some squirter's from any toyota engine, easy as!! Even the pistons are of the same material and forming technique as the turbo ones just higher compression... if your really cheeky you could machine them down to lower compression and effectively have a turbo bottom end cheap. I cut the hole a wee bit bigger and started making the engine mounts. Shes sitting well back! Rules allow 305mm moving of the firewall or 5% of the wheel base (120mm) from a line drawn through the front spindles back to the 1st spark plug. I choose the latter as it gave me another 40mm.

Thanks! it took me about 60 hours over 3 months, I learnt alot though so other side should take me 20 hours. Still along way to go though but my goal is 2 years.

thanks guys! it owes me about $15,000 so far, i'd hate to think how much it would be had i been paying someone to do it for me! so really its a pretty achievable build. I estimate it will be about $25,000 ~ $30,000 when finished. Sorry KK i wont be here this weekend but Andy Gal will give you a full pine tour of it, i'll be in Sydney at the world time attack

Righty! now all the excitement of finishing the wide body plug and silencing all the doubters along the way (yea f*%$# you guys haha) it was time to return to the engine side of things, been pretty quite on the 3SGTE conversion yeah? thats because I did a wee bit more study and a few calculations ($$$ x Reliability / Hp) I decided the 3SGTE wasn't going to cut it. I would need to sleeve the block work the head and it would still be a potential grenade, money grenade.. Sooo whats better than a 3SGTE I asked myself...

Heres the finished plug straight off the gun Dressed up a wee bit Bumper black touched up

yes a good point you raise there! the Mercedes SLS has an explosive charge in the hinges that detonates and dislodges the door if the car senses a roll over. Check this vid out. Fast forward to 2.15. In this test they drop it on an angle so maximum impact is on the door itself, the charge is isolated for testing purposes. In a real situation its all automatic. The special tool they use to remove the door is just a load sensor so they can gauge how much effort is required to remove the door.

Haha cheers man! You will love carbon fibre bit tricky but sooooo cool when you pop out a good finished product, i gave my mate a hand who does it and its amazing. Especially when its dry casting style vacume moulded , extremely light weight.

Yep thats correct, this is the 'plug' (male mold note the vents in the top of the guard are filled in to make casting a breeze) off this i'll build the female mold which will then come off in 6 pieces for the entire side. Every little defect now is one more snowball you have to worry about latter so it needs a smooth glossy finish. I'll certainly be keeping the molds as im casting the kit in carbon fibre which doesn't have and much impact durability as the old fibre glass. Estimate this side will be 2.5~3kg when finished.

Whos on the gravy stroke and wants to see it covered in tan??? Im getting the pics ready now!

All sanded up now i gave it a quick go over with some 400g dry paper, sprayed on some 2pack primer then another 400g sand followed by 600g dry of coarse NEVER WET!!! sorry if you are a fan of wet sanding with water but i think you are the most retard and should stay away from panel work, WATER CAUSES OXIDIZATION! Don't be a jew, go buy more paper or wet sand with calite (white spirits) wear gloves and respirator to keep the cancers away.

Now the door was trimed up i made the side pod. By this time I'd learnt a few new tricks, high density polystyrene, 3mm mdf board, pva glue and hot glue. Any one attempting this i recommend it!! it takes about 40% the time over card board and wire. It makes one hell of a mess and its more delicate but saves alot of time. I shaped it with metal working files (2nd cut grade) when you bog over it it will reacet and melt as bog is polyester based so you need to seal it with an epoxy resin 1st e.g fibre glass epoxy as i did. Now it was time to lay down some glass, i used epoxy resign and did 2 layers of glass fibre matting. Its strong as fuck, im 70kg and i can do hand stands on the guards. One cool thing about it is its a amber clear colour when mixed and turns blue when its gone off so you know when you can sand it. So it was 2 layers over 2 nights and a sand with 80g to knock any sharp edges or resign strands off. Next up I got busy with some bog. All up i spent around 50 hours on this one side to make the plug from wire frame to 2 pack enamel top coat...A48 Toyota beige as is tradition.

haha i like it goose! i shall inspect.. duno if a ford part will find its way onto the car. Will just make my own pin sleeve quick release ones.

Check out what's arriving on Friday night..