hmmmnz

whats the advantage of fitting wide wheels if you have to fit skinny tyres??

just curious, but why all the stretched tyres? is it just because of limited tyre sizes or is there some advantage over having wider tyres? ive seen it alot lately but don't understand it,

ok update, sump changed, (and panel beaten) gasket changed oil pump changed. fuel pump changed, (freshly rebuilt) water pump rebuilt lump ready to go in and shes in.... well almost had to remove the starter motor as it was fouling on the firewall ill chuck the velox one in its place tomorrow, also took the old intake/exhaust gasket to shuk engineering so they can make me a new one (plus a spare) gear box tomorrow,

well both engines and gear boxs are out, a right mission to say the least, none of the usual, unbolt bell housing, then pull out engine, in typical british fashion, the gear box must come out first, with out the bell housing, basically drive shaft off, gear box mount, then tip the motor and box back, then get 1 bolt at the top from unde the car, and the other frm inside the car down through the gear stick hole, then remove the bottom 2 bolts, which are inside the bell housing!!! fun times, pics the 2 boxes, victor 4 speed + over drive on left, bedford 4 speed on right victor motor (3.3l of awesomeness) velox engine ready to be lifted out and shes out!! empty velox success !! sumps, mounts etc next up then 3.3l back in the velox,

ok engine is out of the victor, and gear box is out of the velox, every thing is disconnected, so ill pull the engine out of the velox tomorrow, then it'll be a sump swap, mount swap, then the victor engine wil be ready to go back in the velox, when thats in, it'll be gear box, drive shaft, clutch linkages, exhaust, intake manifold, the carb will have to be rebuilt, all the electrics changed to make way for the alternator, (ditching the generator and separate regulator) then all the wiring for the new guages etc, but im getting ahead of myself engine and box first pics tomorrow

well the victors 4 speed + od is out of the car, engine next, bit of a mission, the bell housing is bolted to the engine, and the bolts are inside[/b it so had to pull the gear box from the housing, which has bolts inside the hosing, and 2 on the to of the box, which are neigh on impossible to get too, fun times

any engineering workshop should be able to do it, with out too much bother, try calling steve at hildred motors (06) 758 8914 he does all the certs etc in new plymouth, he should be able to tell you a good firm

ok some pics cream and green ... always a good combo looks like it was a nz assembled version. although every thing is all imperial. i thought we were metric by then. here is the general state of the rust as you can see, its just surface rust, but with a rust killer on it, which makes it look far worse, the only place where there is a rust hole, is on the back winscreen sill, pretty easy fix really, every where else is rust fee i use that term loosely) but in over all reasonable condition, a lick of paint and it'd be a new car

well picked up the donor car, a 3.3l victor with a 4 speed and over drive, managed to get pulled over with in 30second of my test drive of the car, $300 fine thank you, put the car on the trailer and got back to new plymouth safely the body on the victor is surprisingly good, some surface rust which has been rust treated (which makes the car look like shit) according to all the paper work that i got with the car (from the 3 previous owners) it looks like the car has done an original 53000 miles, and was parked up in the late 70's so the rust is from just sittng, i think the victor will make a good v8 donor car, i'll do the velox first!!!! pics in a bit

big ups to 4AG_Addict for sorting my bits, and cheers for the other guys for the offer of help as well, most appreciated, don't hesitate in asking me for help cheers logan

right, i have bought the victor (1970) with the 3.3l and the 4 speed with over drive, which i'll pick up this weekend. really just want the motor for the velox, but might be able to recover some funds by selling the rolling chassis (any one want an old british muscle car roller??) fun times ahead, havn't done an engine change in 10 years, and that was an old subaru, which was exceedingly easy, any pointers greatly accepted

i dont reckon you should lower it, i think manual conversion / engine conversion, may be better shocks, but keep it stock...ish looking too many starlets are dumped,

if i do a transfer, it'll be the 3.3 with the 4 speed, i did look at a small gm v8, but i can't be fuct going through the whole cert bother, it cost me a small fortune on my van to get done, (lifted delica on 33" tyres) i think i'll end up buying this pulling the engine and box with the e-od unit and selling the victor as a roller to some one who wants to do a v8 conversion, i have seen some wicked v8 victors, i'll keep my old man spec velox though,

looking that way time for a new engine me thinks

not sure what carb you have in there, but are you sure the needle valve is in place?

i gave it ago but couldnt really tell anything, my screw driver wasn't that long, and it kept slipping, a few times i nearly got eaten buy the rockers there doesnt seem to be a definite area where its coming from, baffled,

ok, just did compression test, a solid 150 psi on all 6 cylinders with a variation of about 2 psi through out, i'll be buggered if its something simple, i think its time for more attuned ears than mine

ok some more videos with rocker cover off, fan belt connected, and disconnected. the noise doesnt seem to be coming from anywhere in perticular, its starting to piss me off fan belt on, http://youtu.be/Kl7AVLcDxjU fan belt off http://youtu.be/MIMgIvF9gwY fan belt off http://youtu.be/kcfrf9Pkqh0 fan belt off, push rod cover off http://youtu.be/MVAoGAbshFk did the clearences again on the fly, 2nd cylinder tight on exhaust, loose on inlet, 3rd cylinder tight on inlet 5th cylinder loose on exhaust all the rest were preyy good, going on 0.30mm - 0.35mm recommended 0.33mm (0.013 inch) i'll do a compression test when the mrs comes back from her walk

i think, the best way of doing brakes, is the reverse method, wit a large syringe pump the fluid from the caliper up to the master, as the master res. fils, suck out the old crap, do it on each wheel in turn, no air bubbles , zang! as for doing the exhaust, as long as it as the headers, then any one can do it with minimal fuss i reckon the 300zx's are worth spending money on, they go pretty hard when running nicely, and are getting harder and harder to find, future classic i think

stock non adjustables are about $200 a pair, would ave been nice to get a new set of springs as well though, the only downside to the mx5 s the lack of power, a 2l turbo or a small v6 would be nice, still pretty fun though, it rained tonight, so i was forced to take it out for a blast, easiest car to handle whilst sliding, its so easy to get it to go where you want

why not go for a full electronic ignition? the mega and micro squirts work perfectly for na applications, and if you ever decide to turbo or inject then you are 99% of the way there, no more fucking about with points,

on an engine that isn't running i'm as confident as a mechanic i'd say, i rebuild bikes in my spare time, so no stranger to doing valve clearances, as for doing clearances when running, thats something ive never tryed

i'll pull the fan belt off and try again, then pull the cam cover off and see if i can spy anything in there,,

its a 201 not a 202, not much in it really, is that what you mean?? nah no fumes, doesnt burn oil, has the ocasional hiccup but thats it

i dumped the oil yesterday, no metal in it at all. i'll head over tothe mechanics today and see what he thinks, it doesnt sound like the noise if coming from the bottom end, and it doesnt effect the power at all, i all else fails, i might have to buy this http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =445685577 and steal the motor from it