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Posted

Part 2 of this update.

So while running it in and driving around the block a few times (*filmed on a closed road), I was only using light throttle and not really letting it come on boost.  But then bad things happened.  As soon you as you gave it more than about 1/3 throttle it made unhappy noises from the turbo and it seemed really flat, like the turbo wasn't spooling as it should, or something was leaking.

Back to the workshop to check over all the hoses, lines, etc.  Nothing obvious.  The engine itself is running sweet, idling nicely, cruising nicely on the road.

So today I took the front intake off the turbo, compressor wheel was spinning fine (didn't look at exhaust side - so I'm assuming that is spinning too).  Didn't have the necessary diagnostic equipment (a boost gauge and some tee pieces to see what the boost was doing) so just fiddled with it.  No progress, so took it for another road test and came back to a lot of green water on the outside of the radiator.  It has split the top tank. Yay!  It may have always had a split in it (hence original BHG).

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Then I decided to go down a rabbit hole with on-board diagnostics so see if there was anything obvious with that, or to get a boost pressure reading from the ECU and sensors.  

This spec Jimny has an OBDII style connector port on it, so I mucked around with an old Android tablet and a China special ELM327 OBD dongle to get that going - except, this era of Jimny doesn't run OBDII, it has some proprietary protocol and you need an app called SZ Viewer to see it.  It would connect poorly, and the info on screen didn't give me what I wanted.  The scan refresh time was very poor and so after much mucking around, I gave up on that idea and went inside.

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  • 3 months later...
Posted

So yeah took this for a WOF on Friday and (surprise!) it did not pass.

Excess play in the front right hub but other than that it was good.

I have spent zero time on brakes or suspension so it wasn’t a complete surprise it failed in that area. In fact during my ownership I don’t even think I’ve had a wheel off it.

From a preliminary look at it, and the help of Google and YouTube it looks like a complete hub apart job and then replace top and bottom king pin bearings. Dumb.

The other thing which sucks a bit is there was green juice outside the engine block, and it looks like there might be a weep at the head gasket. That’s the new head gasket and freshly machined/assembled head. I thought maybe I could just crank up the head bolts and hope for the best, but they seem to be under the cams which probably means front cover off, timing chain off, cams out etc.

FUCK.

I suspect the rebuild kit head gasket is substandard so I may as well get the head off seeing how it’s going to be half apart and put in a Suzuki genuine one. 

I’ll get it WOFd and legal again, then see how bad the weep is. It’s not overheating and holds temp okay so maybe that’s how it will stay. Based on my driving experiences so far it won’t be used for long distance or high speed trips.

Posted
13 minutes ago, Nominal said:

Isn't there some thing about running water as coolant for a while with a new head gasket?

yea I was always told to run straight water for the first few heat cycles of a new gasket as the coolant can wick into the gasket vs water.

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Posted

I’ve never heard that before about running plain water, I thought it was more so you could sort out leaks etc before adding coolant 😂

It’s been through a few heat cycles before I replaced the radiator and then added more coolant so it’s not a first run/startup thing.

Posted

It's for old style gaskets that you retorque after however many heat cycles, something like glycol being more viscous than water and if it's gotten between the gasket and head or block it won't seal with retorquing.

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Posted

Definitely had my days of doing old cast iron engine rebuilds and re-torquing the head, adjusting valve clearances etc after running in.

Modern Japanese is a bit different.

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