Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted

With the tubs finished it would be nice to have something to fill the gaps:

20250208_163210.thumb.jpg.35bd96eec12ae4b9dc7411a44fa246c1.jpg

And to fill the smaller gaps I went round most of it with seam sealer:

20250208_164002.thumb.jpg.792865fdaa274b9181bcf35477dcbe53.jpg

Upright panel and side panels in 1.2mm aluminium. Main floor in 2mm. 

  • Like 5
Posted

The side panels are riveted to the wing seams, the rear panel, the wheel tubs and the chassis, and it's amazing how much stiffness these thin little panels have added to the rear bodywork.

20250208_192416.thumb.jpg.96ccbf3109c31cfbf4b607d6801c640f.jpg

The left hand panel will have a battery tray/box mounted to it. The battery will sit along the rear of the wheel tub.

20250208_192413.thumb.jpg.d0bfc4c9b27ed738ab9ec21133ade08e.jpg

 

  • Like 5
Posted

With all of that done the fuel tank can be fitted:

20250208_192406.thumb.jpg.1aa66e84cc5204656d9f6a402cdb418a.jpg

And you will also notice the first bit of plumbing. This is the fuel return which goes through the right-hand panel and joins up with my old faithful BG220 fuel pump.

20250208_192142.thumb.jpg.67f9c3747a7f17ebdd17ee954479cebf.jpg

All of the fuel and oil plumbing on the car has custom anodised silver fittings, and comes from SpeedFlow in Australia. Thanks to the guys over there for an excellent product.

  • Like 7
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

With the majority of the boot done, and a bit more plumbing (that I'm not going to show you yet!) I turned my attention to the inside, and after removing the last of the sound deadening from the parcel shelf I made possibly the most time consuming panel on the whole car:

20250217_123327.thumb.jpg.058ad9e876ec1159b9097441605f93df.jpg

The bottom return is not 90 degrees, it has returns that rivet to the inside of the tubs, and those tabs that drop down into the 'corrugations' are two different depths. even the two flat panels above the tubs are different shapes! I'll slap some sealer around it before the interior is painted.

 

 

  • Like 8
Posted

Moving downwards I have only one more hole to fill in the back panel, but I had to deal with this:

20250217_123531.thumb.jpg.d581ba1fd38b41eca140418ce5305d50.jpg

Which I never finished because I hated it all. Fortunately I have a grinder and I'm not afraid to use it!

20250217_124648.thumb.jpg.2184996a141592dbf500e73d6f394bfd.jpg

  • Like 5
Posted

Better fill that hole eh?

First off, I extended the transmission tunnel framework and welded it to the rollcage crossmember and down to the chassis:

20250217_142403.thumb.jpg.64f6456c44e114843a5905d6d67bb22c.jpg

Followed by cutting, folding, bending, welding and grinding:

20250223_162337.thumb.jpg.ddd5daf5dcefe2c74c8fbf990302debc.jpg

It needs a bit more tidying up before painting, but it's a great improvement.

Now I just need to make the aluminium closing panels for the rear bulkhead, and front of the transmission tunnel. The trans tunnel panels are going to be bolt-on removable panels to aid fitting, removal and maintenance of the transmission.

  • Like 6
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I've been a bit crook lately, so can't spend too much time doing stuff. Thought I'd have a go at the fuse and relay board. This was templated in card and then cut, bent, drilled and welded in 1.6mm Aluminium before being coated in my favourite shade of crackle-black:

20250309_110241.thumb.jpg.81bf0ec33568bef3276ee8c21a25969b.jpg

You'll notice that the sides of the templates are square, whereas the sides of the box are not. Good job I checked the fit regularly during the fabrication process.

Anyhow, once it was made I riveted it into the glovebox of the TR. The gaping hole on the right-hand top was an intrusion to clear the heater ducting that needed to be cut out to fit the fuseboard.

20250309_181122.thumb.jpg.923c6ee53316305ca0641a8908173830.jpg

  • Like 4
Posted

Around the back there was a lot of excess glovebox:

20250309_181202.thumb.jpg.6fb0d5b3a8022bd766233fe339649bbf.jpg

Which was removed. I left a flange at the bottom to clip any wiring to, and used a section of the cut off bit to fill the hole at the top.

20250309_182923.thumb.jpg.e3714f874521a68906e51977d5cd1496.jpg

  • Like 3
Posted

It now has the Mallory ignition box, all of the relays and a fusebox.

The round hole at the bottom will have an insulated +ve terminal, and the holes that the wiring will run through will be edged in rubber.

20250310_142530.thumb.jpg.1f861ad8ffda3993e33000cc86772c3d.jpg

Not a lot of room left for gloves, but it's easily accessible and (IMHO) quite neat.

You'd never know:

20250309_190749.thumb.jpg.ae0ad5f9c0aa58340d6cfea67e4ea713.jpg

  • Like 8
Posted

It's pretty obvious that the intake system will need to be covered:

20250303_133944.thumb.jpg.01c8bed0c05595f332de7b1e2e1254e8.jpg

I'd already bought a fibreglass bulge/scoop, but figuring that the rest of the car is steel (the first all-steel race car I've ever built!) I decided to build my own steel scoop.

Starting with some CAD:

20250303_134329.thumb.jpg.8c52624219d096e2b7a4b65158077475.jpg

This has a curved top and follows the line of the original 'lump' in the TR bonnet. I tried it with a flat top and it just didn't look right.

  • Like 6
Posted

I've spent a bit of time over the last week or so designing (!) and making the battery tray:

20250316_160934.thumb.jpg.6b76471b2257f71589c763e500fa82b6.jpg

This sits behind the left-hand wheel tub. End supports are dimple-died and riveted on all 4 sides.

20250316_160939.thumb.jpg.d0955281416196864e02dea5d6e92a9e.jpg

The bracket at the front is 3mm, welded to the tray and riveted through to the tub. Rear mount hole is threaded into the reinforcement which runs the full width of the tray and is welded from underneath.

  • Like 4
Posted

The fuel filter is a relatively cheap unit with a stainless steel mesh element. The bracket is angle-cut and welded at the ends to give it a bit more strength than just an angle bracket. The M6 countersunk fixing screws are threaded into tapped holes in the chassis.

20250316_154202.thumb.jpg.6f15fd55cfe6d63ba39219dac8f52a55.jpg

Hoses and fittings are from SpeedFlow in Aus (custom anodised silver) in -8AN size which will run all the way through to the fuel regulator.

20250316_154208.thumb.jpg.16bd4c21bf0704ede05e9da1c41398fd.jpg

  • Like 9
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

After buying at least 4 pairs of seats for the car I've now settled on these:

20250315_173600.thumb.jpg.5732fefe290e21c53a45b718a3424ef7.jpg

Kirkey aluminium race seats. Ultimately they will be upholstered the same.

I chose these for three reasons:

1. Lightweight.

2. as the height inside the car is so short I needed seats with the thinnest bases possible and these fit the bill (but not entirely. More on that later).

and 3. They're cool!

But even with the extremely thin seat base my helmet is still too close to the rollcage (no sniggering at the back there!), so I made this:

20250406_155845.thumb.jpg.c82e4df0fc81f8485b2e75707909460e.jpg

Which welds underneath the chassis member and allows me to cut the chassis and lower the seat even further.

  • Like 3
Posted

With the additional gusset welded in place the chassis and floor went under the surgeon's knife (OK, my grinder.) which resulted in this gaping hole:

20250406_164925.thumb.jpg.3010f2f57bd656cd68c307c27b6181ae.jpg

I'll make a new floorpan in this section in 2mm steel plate which will add more strength (not that it needs any) and safety.

Seat in place almost 2 inches lower, and now my helmet is free to move as it should:

20250406_165029.thumb.jpg.ea9d668751b68cb4708a166644d88c2e.jpg

  • Like 4
Posted

The interior got a bit of a make-over with new aluminium door cards. These will be trimmed to match the seats:

20250319_180941.thumb.jpg.53376525b418c99b311a67a104ef8208.jpg

New window winders fitted. These are the cheapest of the cheap, but with 'nice' screws fitted they work well on the TR7 window winder shaft:

20250319_182153.thumb.jpg.efc481b9816a2c687d3d25848d5db856.jpg

  • Like 7

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...