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Adoom's 1981 Mini 1000

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  • 2 weeks later...

I made a cone compressor so I could finish disassembling the front subframe. It owes me $40 but there is enough rod left to make another. A bought one is $99. So... Winning?

M14X2 doesn't seem to be a common size for threaded rod, I had to get it from a proper fastener supplier.


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  • 2 weeks later...

Cleaned out most of the underseal under this guard. Didn't find any rust just redy browny paint.  I need some of those rubber gloves the cow midwives use... so I don't keep getting the black all up my arms


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Aaaaaaaaand it's a bit fucked.

After cleaning, yes it had blown the head gasket, the sealing ring on #1 had failed and it was blowing into the water jacket.

The play between all the valves and the guides is 3 times what it should be. So new valve guides, at least.

#1 cylinder has a brown mark(rust?) I can feel with my finger, and it doesn't come off. So a hone, at least.

#2 big end bearing has a big pit in it. So new big end bearings. Main bearings looked...okayish.

Full gasket set is >$400!

Head bolts are stretchy ones, so a new set is $50

The deck surfaces have oxidation that doesn't clean off. I was quoted $230 to resurface them.

I think that was it....

I'm cutting my losses on this one. I'll use it as a dummy for fitting.

I'll get a known good engine later.

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On Saturday I went on a mission to Waipukurau and collected a mini bonnet.

It had some cracks around the edges. I've already welded those up, as well as welding the corners.

The front ends of the support ribs have rusted away. There is enough left of one so I know what it should look like. The ribs will be easy to remove. As far as I can tell, the rear end of the ribs are only held on with two tack welds each.

There are also some rust holes along the front edge of the bonnet, under the chrome strip, they shouldn't be hard to fix.


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But I didn't like the look of this.


Did some cutting and it was double plated. So cut it all out.


Lots of gouges from who ever was in there last.

I decided to fill them with weld because the jacking point bracket and the back is not being accessible because the box section is behind it, made patching the area not feasible.



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And then...


I know it's not really ideal to be painting over the existing surface rust. But some Zinc It has got to be better than nothing at all. I'll shoot some penetrol and cavity wax in there once it's painted.

I'm assuming epotec epoxy primer won't stick to the penetrol.... but I want to use something that will creep into all the seams (that 100% will have rust in them) before I seal over them with epoxy.


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