Jump to content

Bluebear01's 1983 1uz powered Toyota Crown


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Small update -  got the rear brakes rebuilt & bled the system, first time I've had a brake pedal in 12 months. I also had the fuel bulkhead terminal arrive so I got the fuel pump all done & fitted. So nice & quiet in the tank!

 

IMG-4484.JPG.e7846257528ed9eda3eb42bcc42f5828.JPGIMG-4523(1).JPG.e66201e7120f7836fc015ef7d7678d75.JPGIMG-4524.JPG.da112b3db066831fbdbd4a5fd1d186d6.JPG

I did manage to make it move this weekend too! I'll try and get a video up some time...

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

Yikes, what a mad rush the end of that year was! I only got the smallest of windows to plug away at this, starting with finalising the wiring. I'm trying to wire this as close to the factory 1uz diagram as I can, while keeping it looking like Mr Toyota did the work back in 1983. I tried the Narva fuse blocks, but they have a really nasty loose feel to them. I grabbed a fuse box from a diesel Corona which carries 3 relays & a fuse which is perfect. It feels & looks better, not that anyone else will ever see it mind you. 

IMG-6761.jpg.784fa85920f7e9bc1d5ea6f94b431234.jpg

IMG-6806.jpg.acb1902cbd2c8b68ac129b70f798d679.jpg

I've finished a test fit of all the relays, it runs well now with the idle speed controller receiving power 5 seconds after shutdown for reset and the fuel pump relay running from the ECU. Next I'll tidy it all up & test the air flometer, it seems to be running a bit rich. The TPS might need an adjustment to, there is a hunting issue around 1500rpm. 

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Wow, this got buried quick! Everyone is working hard on their projects obviously. Relay loom is done & working well, although I'm getting a code for speed sensor if I rev it too much. I might see if I can trigger the ECU neutral wire or feed the speed signal from the dash speed output before I put it in permanently. 

IMG-6846.jpg.f292efa850f6ce3facbc060a0c1e4a85.jpg

I've calibrated the throttle plate & TPS. The TPS had a fluctuating resistance curve off idle, after pulling it apart & cleaning it came up like new. The hesitation around 1500rpm is gone now, but it is still running rich and feels like it's running on 7. The leads had a few that were open circuit which doesn't help and the plugs were fairly old. Miles Toyota had the cheapest lead set I could find and it came with a lot of the plastic guides, sweet! 

IMG-6847.jpg.88e08f2bcc57dd7c7008e50aaed5700c.jpg

IMG-6925.jpg.496e7520aa350cd0a1b9be34180fb88b.jpg

IMG-6948.jpg.1dd18ab341d21aa0f9784154d4597790.jpg

Even better, but still running rich and a hairy idle. Maybe the compressed air and brake clean wasn't the best method for cleaning the injectors. After pulling them and pressurising the rail - yup, most are leaking a bit. A refurbished genuine set off eBay was half the price of cleaning locally, so they are on the way for next month. While I'm waiting I'll get the radiator fan sorted & try and make up some kind of air filter/cold air intake setup. All these small details feel like wading through mud! I guess that's why most projects end up getting "95%" complete. 

IMG-6954.jpg.a69bfdd4dc33818b4477ebc442e7cae4.jpg

  • Like 8
Link to post
Share on other sites

It's the little things in life (that I seem to put off).  The heater tap works thank goodness, doesn't look like an easy one to source. Wiper motor also good, just in need of a clean, re-grease & paint. A combination of Z hoses & random bits from Super Cheap 's hose bin got the heater core connected up.

IMG-2683.JPG.aace34b8f0a5b7bf755c4b2c703d6346.JPG

IMG-2684.JPG.c06ef160090fecf23997e5402d20ea1d.JPG

IMG-3037.JPG.287055fd0d4b1742f78a4e1fbeb974d4.JPG

IMG-3038.JPG.e21bb7d8a192edefb709222551d32621.JPG

IMG-3040.JPG.937d05d7c2939a655dadf89d2b846b8b.JPG

IMG-6938.jpg.d3934307df718cf4969269341714336e.jpg

IMG-6939.jpg.0b13f887062726a559b4fe94635ca7fa.jpg

Next up will be the air filter. I'd like to avoid a pod filter, I'll see if the factory 5M-E filter housing might be usable. 

  • Like 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

I had the old radiator re-cored by Burnside Radiators a couple of years ago, so no issues there. The 1uz came with the viscus hub fan, but it would be a pain to get a cowling to fit & I'm not keen for it to sound like a van. In keeping with the shoe-string budget I went climbing through the local wreckers with a tape measure & found a pretty bloody close fit. It almost looks like it was made for it! I'll do some minor trimming to fit it on, then wire it in.

IMG-7077.jpg.00d0438bb27f665711b026549e8a7176.jpg

IMG-7078.jpg.679507f75638559cb8db11fce7058e78.jpg

  • Like 8
Link to post
Share on other sites

I’ve chopped up a factory 5M-E air filter housing to take a afm adapter and changed the mounts to bring the afm in line with the intake hose. It’s a tight fit, but just snugs in nicely between the fuse box and coolant overflow. It’s nice and solid, and changing the filter is nice and easy. 
1D84331C-E6DA-419C-A457-F0DA4F43025D.jpeg.1f34937b288b7924cf16a00bc1241470.jpeg

929FAF3A-20AC-486E-89BF-3C6FA0547763.jpeg.fca6a2a84be8beb09362a7e1ad915bda.jpeg

7952B49E-DC81-4406-9E7F-D980E09C584B.jpeg.7cfdf3019350657e7f22ab80936558e5.jpeg

6B7ACEA0-8DB2-4954-AF30-F12BDA9C4BCF.jpeg.49d6ac6aedd399a160e37e9028516cd2.jpeg

  • Like 7
Link to post
Share on other sites

So all back together with the new injectors, running much better but not perfect. It’s still got a stumble off idle and still seems a bit rich. The o2 sensors for both banks are reading a constant rich 0.9v at idle, then start a healthy 0.8v-0.2v cycle after 2500rpm. That’s about where it starts running really sweet too. I knew the injectors, leads, plugs and TPS were all spot on at this stage, but I had no reason to trust the air flow meter other than it runs rubbish without it. So I plugged in the scope and had a look.

D2719D45-7E4F-4627-B65A-C370BD4D1EC2.jpeg.523124e62687d6926644ff0716b53275.jpeg

C99DC1D1-1BB6-42CC-A325-AA10193A6BC0.jpeg.20c7ddb30fd797e8b2ae5ba1c9ec9f64.jpeg

985A7670-77D1-4928-BC38-5D724A8307E9.jpeg.3b3790d28cc0b6a9ffebf04034435057.jpeg

At first I thought I had a bad connection, but after triple checking everything this is the signal at idle. Nothing at all! After revving up past 2500rpm she starts running sweet, leans out and at the same time pops out this signal...

FD9E16BF-1945-4BAB-9B91-D92E60452501.jpeg.6560fbee4bd07a1b77aeeb046244bc2e.jpeg

Gotcha! It all makes sense now. Time to hunt out another air flow meter. That raises the question, secondhand or chinesium? I can’t imagine it would be easy to make a reliable Chinese Karmen Vortex on the cheap? But it’s got to be getting hard to trust a 30 year old part too... Anyone have any experience with new aftermarket afm’s for the 1uz? 

Cheers for reading! 

  • Like 6
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Bluebear01 changed the title to Bluebear01's 1983 1uz powered Toyota Crown
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Great weather to push her outside & get stuck into the interior. The ECU fits nicely above the glovebox where the 5M ECU would have gone on the EFI model. Then the airbox can go back in and the relay box and fan controller/diagnostic port fit on nicely. Feels good to finally have the engine wiring complete! I'm still getting fault codes for the missing trans computer unfortunately. They are dormant in the ECU but they throw the check engine light up when the engine is revved up. I have heard it's possible to wire in an old Surf trans computer to keep it happy, but it might be easier at this stage to wire in a timer relay to kill the check engine light 10 seconds after startup. That way if I have a hard code for something more serious ill still spot it on startup. 

IMG-7810.jpg.85e14cc201eb10b1674139863ce8d885.jpg

IMG-7480.jpg.99b6c501d8c4c92e7e0e34c772a5a5fa.jpg

IMG-7483.jpg.283a6114e5616d05867c35199b4f0451.jpg

IMG-7485.jpg.0792184498a7b2ce03d698162d0ff234.jpg

IMG-7823.jpg.153106f0d75e610511c6e9268cbae5c5.jpg

I've also replaced the speakers front/ back with Sony/Kenwood. They actually sound really good just running from the factory stereo which is surprising. 

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

The top of the door cards has been falling apart for a long time now, and the parcel tray carpet was turning to dust from all the UV. I managed to send them away & get them back before lockdown, Derrick at NZ Vinyl did a great job at a great price. The central locking hadn't worked for 5 years, turns out the solenoid contacts were just rusted out. Some cleaning & spare parts brought them back. It now locks the doors above 30kph again which freaks passengers out! 

IMG-7490.jpg.eac6809310ed5c3e83c40dccabcba624.jpg

IMG-7569.jpg.16866fe5d17cf0fe46f0a4a634dee952.jpg

IMG-7713.jpg.cf6be8a56cb4442cb51bf1410d690ec0.jpg

IMG-7813.jpg.d16fb07cdf6a5019d5ba97f2fd12b0c9.jpg

IMG-7805.jpg.5e224fe1869321f7c0db8d0290f9bf5c.jpg

IMG-7821.jpg.249f8a24295ebdea5bd93bab8639902b.jpg

IMG-7828.jpg.37aa3bbc2b23ceb7fdf299f642b36580.jpg

That's pretty much all I can do from home. After the lockdown its off to work for me to repair some rust, replace the shocks, new rear tyres, driveshaft hoops, wheel alignment and WOF. Then hopefully book in Cert! Looking forward to some long road trips all over the place very soon! 

  • Like 7
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...