Kustom Kreeps 1949 Hudson Leadsled

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Forgot to add:

Got it home & got the trunk welded up.

Hooked up the gas tank.

Put the brake system back together.

Changed the oil, plugs and battery.

Suck through some gas and spat the left overs into the carb. Took a mighty sip of my favorite brew- just to wash out my mouth honest.

Turned the key.  Started right up!!!

Soon noticed the exhaust pipe ended a few feet from the headers. Hard to miss once its turned on. Not that concerned as its all coming out anyway.

Turned it off after 10 seconds or so due to no water pump but feeling confident that once i get the pump the old thing might move under its own power. Have read about the clutches can get stuck after long periods of not being used so might have to check that to i guess. Looking at the concoctions people list for Hudson clutch fluid makes me think of some demented witches brew.

Then its just get a vid of it turned on and if possible moving and stopping under its own power.

then rip it all out and flick it off to the restoration guys


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So planning of my build is still ticking away. 

Although i have started ordering the easy bits like all the rubbers, seals, window channels etc
Since the old water pump is still getting fixed im flushing the clutch slowly. rotating it every day as it sits with kerosen. with luck it will free the clutch if its stuck (not sure that it is but will soon find out) have ATF to pop in when im ready.
As for the planning of the build.
Decided i want Power steering to make the missus happy and to make life and the ride that lil more enjoyably.
Also have decided that since i want to lower it and also want disk brakes all around that I will just buy a Fatmans Sub. Get a RH Power rack, sway bar & setup for Air bags.
as for whats happening out the back.
im thinking Moser 9inch houseing & axle package along with a ford 9inch.
or maybe a currie setup.
ideas, suggestions from any who have used would be great.
also confirmation on length. 49 Hudson rear is 55inch?
Then im looking at RideTechs triangulated 4Link rear with bags.
Has anyone used this? Being such a well known brand im taking the build quality and weight is good? will be fine for a hudson? 
with these changes to front and rear popping on Wilwood will be no issue. Would like a break booster but unsure of placement/room issues with the 401 thats already taking up space with PS, Alt and god knows what.
Unsure as yet about drive shaft. guess i will have to get everything in to figure that out.
Trans will be Monster Transmisions 700R4 conversion package.  rated up to 600hp. Nailhead will only be 400ish. comes with all the extras I will need other than adapter.
Radiator advice?
Also going to start a new thread asking people to post pictures of there interiors so i can get ideas.
So ya. advice please! Its going to be an expensive build and need as much advise as possible.

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Seems Fatmans build quality often dosnt make the mark for NZ certifiers. check out pages 5 & 6 here for more info. you will soon get an idea of how hard they scrutinize the workmanship to let it be legal to drive on NZ roads. The process is hard but it has our safty at heart. Made by hor rodders for hot rodders. 

It aint a No you cant use Fatmans but they will test the crap out of it.


Still ordering bits. Just ordered an Eelco 2x4 nailhead intake. plan to pop a few Edelbrock 600cfb carbs ontop of it.

Also have ordered in all the window channeling, seals and rubbers i need. Those things sure do add up when you are looking at a whole car worth. Figured since i plan to take front, back and side windows out when i blast it i should do em all.

New Heater unit and few little nick nacks are on the way like cigar lighter and a ashtray fro rear left door. Seems at some point the old owners ripped out the heater and put in a  British smaller one made by Smiths for MGs( googling i think it was from a MG TD TF 1500 model). Sill works fine so will be up for sale for anyone who is after an old Brit heater unit.


but ye stuck on front suspension at the moment. 

  • Risk Fatmans. Huge price tag and then i may need pay even more to get it fixed.
  • Redo the Hudsons setup with disk brakes, air bags, thicker swaybar etc. no Power steering for the better half. And risk clearance issues with the center point steering and engine.
  • Jag. Throwing something thats near 40 years old under the car. ye works but may need rebuild what would add up..

need options and advice. 


Looking at my suspension im thinking its going to need rebuilt if i do keep the original hudson setup. Its why im leaning towards a new weld in or bolt in setup.


On bright side im hopeing to pick up the waterpump tomorrow. And then fingers crossed i will be able drive around the block. Remember exhaust ends about 3 feet from the engine and being right hand drive dumps drivers side. no carpets. could get smoky so cant do big drive.



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So got the old beast going today and went for a drive. handling is horrible but that was expected lol.

Vid showing it running.
Smoky as its exhaust pipe is only like 3 feet long and in the middle has a big hole.
And a walk around the old Hudson. orgional colour was Blue. someone painted it mid 60s. a bit of surface rust but on the whole its in pretty good condition.
So the engine and everything under the hood will be up for sale soon once i rip it on out. Heck pretty much everything under the car will be for sale.
Any restoration guys after parts let me know i guess.
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havnt been on here for a bit.


Finally finished my planing stage and most of the buying stage.


I have or due to arrive by the months end:

  • Worked 401 Nailhead (413 now, ported, polished, bored etc etc) Should make about 1HP per cube.
  • Worked 700R4 Trans rated to 650HP along with cooler and install kit
  • Trans adapter
  • Elco 2x4 Intake.
  • 2x edelbrock 600 carbs and linkages.
  • Engine dress up stuff. 
  • Moser custom made 9inch rear end.
  • 12' Wilwood 4 piston rear, 12.8' 6 piston front.
  • American autowire highway 22 wiring kit
  • Ridetech digital 5 gallon airpod with 8000series HQ shockwaves rear and 1000 series HQ shockwaves front.
  • Ridetech trianglated 4 link.
  • Rods by Reid Lo3 front suspension with power steering. made for my car weight & ride height.
So most of the stuff to really start the project is nearly here.

Still need things like radiator, battery, drivesharft, steering column, lines & hoses, ignition system, exhaust etc


but some of that i cant get until its all in the car and/or isnt hard to pickup anyway.


Couldn't use the Fatmans front clip. wont pass NZ certification regulations on many points. So have gone for a more expensive option but way way better.



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Well haven’t updated this for some time. Yet on that note i haven’t done much to the car really until now.

Up until this point I got it going on its old motor, gave it a bit of a drive about. took a few vids for proof that it moves & stops under its own power etc for when i would sell the heart of the old beast.

And affectionately dubbed the car “Crudson” due to its ratty & oily crud smell.

Well i guess that wasn’t the full extent of my endeavors to date. I have gone and spent a fair bit of wedge on the mechanical side of things. Raiding the cosmetic budget (paint n panel, interior etc) to get the car setup solidly underneath where no one will likely ever see. Seemed like a good idea at the time.

Said parts have enjoyed a lovely cruise on a ship around the world from the states to New Zealand then been fumigated & inspected by NZ customs and finally released for pickup tomorrow. Will do a few pics etc of whats to go in the car and my experience with the vendors once i have the goodies here and inspected. I will say Kiwi Shipping who freight forwarded nearly a tonne of parts to me was great to deal with and would go back to them any day. The shipping part (not customs etc) was only $665NZ($470USD) what i thought was bloody good seeing it had to go half way around the world & that i normally pay half that per order from Summit etc

Happy as this certainly made me i suddenly realized i hadn’t even started pulling the car to pieces to slip in my new found treasures.

There is a certain joy in the freedom of not giving a fek about the parts you rip out of a car. Often for me its “ohhh i should keep this just in case…”. But seeing everything under the car etc will be replaced i haven’t had those moments and i have had great fun ripping everything out. Few choice words have been spoken yet a fair many beverages consumed to date.

Making it better my Better half has been right besides me the whole time learning whats what and how a car goes together hands on. Got to love a girl who not only loves lipstick n heels but also lets me store parts in the spare bedroom.

So im rambling. Heres the progress made today with various tools of destruction.

– started with screw drivers & sockets but soon progressed to wire cutters followed by a hammer or two then for the finale saws etc.

Shrunken Head was one of the first to go but he will be back.

Hood off and ready for destruction!


Electricals, Rad, Bumpers, Lights and other junk out ready to unbolt the anemic inline.


One thing i like about these old Hudsons is the large Engine/Trans/Drive shaft access panel. Lift the carpets and unscrew a dozen bolts on the front floor gains you easy access with no need to raise the car.


Engine unbolted and ready to go.


Tell ya engine levelers are great if you dont have one get one!


Garage Kitty El Spokecamino (so named due to his ripped up ears and he can be a mean lil b@$#ard) supervised under Kreeps our 52 Buick for most of the time.



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have been asked via PM a few times about my choice of front ends etc and thought i would quickly post a quick rant on it.

So yes. For its day 70 odd years ago the old Hudson had state of the art suspension that helped the Hornets win so many NASCAR races over so many years back when it was done on dirt tracks.

I had seriously thought about keeping it and reconditioning what i had then updating it with disk brakes, larger sway bar and power steering.
The center point steering coupled in with issues installing airbags, decent brakes, finding a PS system and then clearances with the nailhead soon turned me off.
If i was going to spend alot of wedge i would rather get an updated system.

Looked in to Jag IFS – similar weight cars. still would need rebuild and would need change up the rails due to the old unibody chassie.

So i would have to cut up the front end rails no matter what i would fit in. Looking about I saw Fatmans Fab did a full front clip. weld in jobbie that had all the holes in place for panels, rad etc etc.
Problem was they seem to fail NZ cert so much. My local Certifier wasnt keen so no point wasting the time and effort bring one in from the states.
Also note Fatmans no longer sells to NZ or Aus due to our vehicle regulations and they dont meet the standards. So if you are after some junk from them then send it to a freight forwarder state side.

So started looking closer to home. Holdens HQ- HZ looked like a good option. Started searching for a HZ as they had slightly better suspension (RTS) compared to HQ. A wrecker i have alot of time for told me he new of a HZ 1 tonner with PS up for grabs. Excellent i think. problem solved. Take it away and unload it. Then on close inspection i notice the front suspension dosnt look right. turns out it was a HQ ute. Took it back and started looking again.
Soon found out they can be a bitch to bag and shockwaves just wont fit in them as they are to wide (6.5inch wide). weight wise the front clip may not handle the job either.
Cross off Holdens and mutter a few choice words.

Now by this time I had been trying to figure out the front end for near on two or three months and was starting to get a tad pissed at my seemingly lack of any solid progress and constant setbacks.

hmm i should also mention one bright side I had. That coming in a package of a Hotrod builder and ticketed welder with decades of experience on a huge range of cars. Better yet it was the certifier who recommended him(anything he says i do pretty much as he is god in the end).
Wayne Flockton hence forth and forever more dubbed “Flockie”. He has had cars featured in a number of magazines including Hotrod. His shed is a vehicular wonderland of awesome. Chassis in various stages with all kinds of parts grafted on to them. Airbags, Engines, custom grilles all sit amongst pickups and hotrods that he is building for people and himself.
Options, ideas, suggestions and everything happily supplied.
One being Rods by Reid. A NZ hotrod shop ran by John Reid. Making NZs only pre approved for cert front end. Also a life time honorary member and top ranked man in NZ cert crowd. Also had many mag cars along with winning rides at a number of yank events like Goodguys.

So after talking to him i settle on the LO-RIDE 3 with wilwood & bags made to my ride height, weight, width etc

Flockie will be cutting off the old hudson front clip and welding in a new one with the above setup.
Exciting times.

God I hope thats the end of the nightmare the front ends been. But I have a sinking suspicion that was the easy bit and the real hard stuff is only about to begin. ><

Anyone here used a Rods by Reid IFS?

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A client said to me “got to make Hay whilst the sun is shinning” the other day.
Fek the hay give me a wrench and a cool bourbon i thought and promptly went home to rip into the Crudson.

With a tag team effort my better half and I removed the front panels.

Was told when we brought the car it was brought into NZ by a farmer. Im guessing he lived on a gravel road by the accumulation of dirt and stones inside the body and rails. Said dirt would rain down into the hair and down the back of the neck as you try to unseize old bolts under those big ol guards.

The amount of dried old gorse was a tad unsettling and made me wonder what the fek he actually used the car for. Visions of drunken paddock missions chasing sheep and running over fields of gorse flickered through my mind as i plucked the thorns from my hands.

The patch of rust up the front looks easy. Cut off, form up a new bit of metal and weld back in jobbie. that whole lower panel under the doors unbolts and is currently full of dirt and stones. i think by the end of emptying the car of road dirt n gravel I will have enough to build the small wall out the front like i have been wanting to do for the last few years. Should also lighten the car by a bit as well i would imagine.

The missus also did some fine devastation to the old brake lines, some wiring and god knows what was ripped out. Most amusing & I wouldn’t have it any other way.

about ready i to get Flockie involved.

Will be casting my eye over the engine and trans next. painted up and put together so we can work out placement etc

more on that latter.


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Well it seems i have swapped clouds of dirt & dust for paint spray mist and vapors. Really need to upgrade my mask i think. Still a happy trade i must admit – was getting sick of the dirt, oil n rat shit.

Before i get ahead of myself i should do a quick splat on whats what regarding the new heart of the beast.

1965 Buick 401 or as most affectionatly know them by a “Nailhead”
Came out of an Electra or Wildcat i think.
Sonic tested prior to any work being done.

Had huge issues finding one that was in decent shape here in New Zealand – ones i did find hadn’t been turned over for 15 – 25 years or had been in parts for about the same amount of time.

Price to get one of these old things back in shape soon made me look to the states. I could get one already tested, worked and landed here in NZ for cheaper. Now i use to run an online business and brought most of my products in from the states so already had my customs client codes and was familiar with the process etc. So naturally i tracked down a good builder with a reputation to suit and went from there.

And the work done by Dual Quad Dave reads as:
1965 Buick 401 core
Bored .060 over to 413
Decked .020 to compensate for modern head gaskets(original gaskets were .017 thick, new ones are .045 thick. You lose .5 point of compression if you do not cut the deck to compensate)
New cast pistons
New Hastings moly rings
Rods resized w/ ARP rod bolts
Crank turned .010/.010 and polished
Oil galley plugs converted to screw in(factory are press-in)
New Melling oil pump
New Melling cam/lifters
New Melling valve springs
Heads rebuilt w/ new valves, new iron guides, cut for Teflon oil seals(factory had no oil seals), milled .010 to ensure excellent seal
New freeze plugs
Updated to modern silicon front/rear oil seals
Good used timing cover
New timing chain
New water pump
Included pulleys& alt/ps brackets.
Included stock exhaust manifolds
Stock Power steering pump.
New Powermaster 1wire alt.
Stage 1 porting.
Polished chambers.
cleaned up castings.
Adjustable pushrods.
Stock 4brl Intake
Media blast & prime.
think thats about it. no doubt i missed stuff. I will blame the multi coloured paint boggers clogging up my brain. Dave who built up the donk was great. Gave lots of performance options and stages. Answered all my questions well and gave options. Gave free shipping to the docks. Inspected everything – found a small crack on one manifold after sandblasting so popped on another but didnt have time to blast that. Sent another box of stuff separate to NZ.

Now i know what you are thinking… Cam.

Its on the list to down the track. The nailheads came out with for the day a rather aggressive cam – today i guess it would be classed as mild but still decent. First i want to drive it and hear it. if i want a more lumpy cam then no problems. if im happy with it but would like a different tone to the sound then i will fiddle with the exhaust.

Also another large factor was the porting. Nailheads main issue is breathing. Heck its why they are called nailheads as the valves are like nailheads. I could pick a cam up easy enough but to get porting done by someone who is experienced on the old motor here in NZ would be harder. So put my cash towards porting. Should help it breath a lil better.

Power wont be an issue no matter what cam i use. The old Nailheads are known for torque. heck Buick use to lable the engines by the torque rateing not HP and they listed some impressive numbers from the factory floor.

Currently its sitting about 360-370HP and 475-485lbs add another 20HP with the Eelco 2×4 intake when it arrives then another 20-30hp from headers i should be up around 400HP or 1HP per cube. Obviously a cam will push these higher if I feel I need more power.

Some pics of the engine:

As you can see the old Nailheads are semi hemi.

and loaded up in the states:

Yesterday we masked it up, took off the intake and exhaust manifolds etc.

gave it a bit of a sand and another prime then sprayed it Gloss Black.

Still unsure what color we will paint the car whats been a big issue. Originally satin black with pinstriping, then dark red or purple, then white with tinted windows. Already have a matte Black car. White looks good next to it but still unsure. Ideas?

Anyway we figured black goes with anything and would look good with the finned accessories etc.

Engine will be out again once we have done the mock ups. when we strip it down and do the panel n paint. So if needs be can repaint it again then.

Will get some pics of the engine latter in its current black state.

Im off to chase up my new intake then watch some custom car shows online.

post ideas for paint!

ohh and post some good hotrod, custom etc car shows.
like Fast n Loud, Counting Cars, RoadKill, Full Custom Garage TV etc

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Works been flat out this week so haven’t had time to get in the garage much.

Engine is sitting waiting for me to pull my finger out and hook the trans up to it.

And talking of the Trans. Its a 700R4 from Monster Transmissions worked up to handle 650HP & 600ft/lbs torque. Medium firm shift kit. Wasnt happy with the service from Monster trans. Order took 6 weeks to build, test and ship. During that time they didnt answer a single email and only a few Facecrack messages.
Still it was very well packaged on the crate and looks to be of decent build quality. Time will tell though how it shifts and handles.
They have discounts every day from 5-20% off with free shipping USA wide along with cash discounts. I was able stack like 3 discounts to get it at a reduced price by just checking back every day for a few weeks.
Package Link: 700R4 SuperStreet master conversion package.
Comes with pretty much everything needed to install other than fluids, cross member and driveshaft.
Kit contains:
700R4 SS Mega Monster Transmission, rated up to 650hp/600tq
What’s Inside The Transmission:

What’s Included With Conversion Package:
Performance Torque Converter, your choice from 1650-2500 Stall
Universal Fillertube with updated Locking Dipstick
Updated Universal Fit Throttle Cable with metric bolt
Metric Linkage Nut
2 Brass Coolant Line Fittings
Metric Torque Converter Bolts
Universal Transmission Mount with bolts
Speedometer Drive & Driven Gears
Speedometer Housing & Support Bracket
Speedometer Housing O-Ring
External Lock-Up Kit
700R4 Chrome Throttle Cable Bracket
Hayden Transmission Cooler Kit
700R4 Universal Dust Cover
700R4 Stock Depth Chrome Pan


Painted up to match the engine:

Using a trans adapter to mate the old Nailhead bolt pattern to the 700R4. Seems well made but the manufacturer ( Bendtsens ) is a jerk. Total ass hat and i wouldn’t ever go back to him.

Once i get down to the shops to get some locktight i will get it all together.
God i hate those annoying hold ups. already to go but cant find my locktight after ages of searching. frustrating to say the least.

On a different note the Hudson is away at Flockies kustom chassis hotrod shop.
Moving the car about is a breeze with the tractor. /Jealous.

His boy is following close in dads footsteps it seems. Even though he is young he is out there helping wrenching along side his dad learning the skills. Till he gets to an age to use the welder seriously he is stuck with cardboard and making some serious customs and hotrod models from scratch. Kid has some great ideas and sure likes to chat about them to any who will listen.

Exciting times i tells ya. just wish i had more time to tinker.

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As often is the way~ life and work are getting in the way of what i really want to be doing: saving this heap of steel from restoration.

Time of the year i guess with Christmas fast approaching and clients suddenly deciding its the end of the world if XYZ isn’t done like yesterday.
i just stand there baffled as there mouth is moving wondering to myself “yes all very good and nice but come on surely they must agree the old car is more important… LEADSLED GOD DAMN IT!!!!”
Its really starting to get out of control. I take it for granted its completely normal and sane if not even healthy for a guy to dream of cars n shift like that. But my dearest the other morning commented she is dreaming of cars. Cool i think to my self but whats that say about us o.0 – should note here we do live in a Bogan town so this may be common with in the local female populace..(you yanks think redneck i guess just dont youtube Bogan please)

Anyways with said working life getting in the way i haven’t done sweet jack all.
Popped on the Trans adapter, ordered a few small parts i needed is about all.

Dropped more stuff off to Flockies Chassis Shop. Some of the projects the maestro is tinkering away on:

Not much room at the moment but with luck he will have some of the projects cleared soon and the Hudson chassis etc on its way.

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well i will start off with the fact that i took a week or so away from the project. Didn’t want to walk in the garage or acknowledge the existence of the motor or trans.

Using the ol if i dont see it then it never happened reasoning.

All this was brought about by the rather unpleasant sound of cast aluminium cracking. Now if you have never had that distinct displeasure of hearing this then im jelouse.

So the story goes i was having a great ol time. tunes blaring, woodstocks sunk and it seemed like the best time to mate up the trans to the engine.

Pop some fluid in the torque converter & slip it on hearing the clunks as it fitted on snugly.

Place the newly worked trans on a trolly jack and position it.

Easy i think and start tightening it up. CRACK!!!

I freeze as heart skips a beat.

Trans bellhousing around one of the bolt holes has a crack.

I didnt swear or curse. just stared at it in shock. laid down my tools. Stood up. collected my tools and put them away then exited the garage to find a beverage. My dearest who was helping balance and hold stuff had the sense to not say a word as i went about these duties in silence.

So guessing the dowls didn’t line up as well as i thought.

Not the end of the world. Can be TIGed back up. Just frustrating, annoying and plain old Grrrrr……

This was done a few weeks ago. I have taken a lesson from our cat. that being ignoring it. So its still in the same place i left it – that being middle of garage and even though i walk around it i have chosen not to look at it. This method seems to work well for the cat. “I ignore your existence and you reward me with temptations”

So I have moved on from that debacle to the ignition system.

I dont like the HEI nailhead distributors. Big and ugly. dont look old school for my tastes.

I had two old GM Delco distributors. Media blasted, reconditioned to make one good & smooth operating with no end play. New cap and rotor along with a paint job and its looking better than new. Will use the other as an oil primer once i get to the fluids phase.

Ripped out the old points and condenser and have put in a Pertronix Ignitor II electronic ignition unit. So should never need to worry about that side of things again. Although i have kept the old parts to keep in the cars tool box just encase the new electronic ignition ever plays up. The conversion is all done inside the distributor so i can always swap back with no issues.

Also got the Pertronix Flame Thrower II coil. Its like 45k Volts so way more than i need i guess but i decided to get the coil made to work with the new electronic ignition. Black of course ( i really cant help my self) yet the thing is going to be covered by the finned metal coil cover anyways.

For leads i went with Taylors ThunderVolt 8.2MM custom wire kit. things run at 40ohms so will carry the spark to problems. Nice and black so wont be an eyesore under the hood. The lengths of wire are ubber long whats good i guess. I sure did have alot of left over wire after cutting to length & crimping all the terminals up. Only down side with the kit is that it dosnt come with a crimper. But have a MSD one so that wasnt a biggie. The wires will be out of sight mostly due to the finned spark plug covers. Also the old Nailheads have the dissy at the back behind the intake so the duel carbs and airfilter will hide it all whats great. tested my leads and ALL had 39ohms or lower resistance. think the lowest was near 37ohms.

Alot of people seemed to recommend the old AC Delco R45S sparkplugs to work for Nailheads. So i went for those. The R45S are a tad longer than the normal ones.

And thats basically it for the ignition side at the moment.

As for the car it self. I need to get in contact with Flockie to talk over the plan of attack i guess. With luck he has had a good ol poke about underneath and came up with a few ideas.

Im chaffing at the bitt to finally get things going. Patience has never been one of my strong points – a trait i believe i picked up from my father then compounded by working in ICT where everything progresses fast if not instantaneous.

Constantly telling my self slow down (or i may break something like a transmission…)

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Rolled into Flockies  today after work to have a yarn about the important things in life… cars.

Focusing on the rearend at the moment. To gain the air out/low height and drive height we are after means getting the diff up higher.
This will mean more fab work than initially expected but really it aint no great surprise to tell the truth.
C-Notching the chassis rails about 4inch and then raising part of the floor in the boot (trunk for you yanks) to get more clearance for the diff housing. Also may need to alter the floor slightly under the rear seat for the two piece driveshaft.

We are looking at a ride height of a minimum 100mm (4inch) maybe an inch or so higher if needs be. Then of course we can go up or down from the bags when the mood suits.

As you can see in the below image there is sweet fek all clearance and the ride height is still to high.

A slightly better image maybe.
So those rails are looking at getting about 4 or 5 inch C-notch. So up inside the trunk a bit.
On a side note the wall thickness of the Ridetech 4Link that will be bolting up in here is much better than expected.
Just above the center diff housing is a small raised section of the trunks floor. This will need to be raise up a bit further to get clearance for the housing. Still should be enough clearance on the ledge for the airtank etc. So no great loss really.
Looking at running the exhaust under the diff.
In the above pics you can kinda see just in front of the diff (opposite side than we see) that the seats floor pan is looking like it might just slightly be in the way for the drive shaft. May need a little massaging.

Another issue maybe changing the tire. Will give that better thought once we know where everything will sit better. The diff is slightly narrower than stock to help with this. Also pumping up the bags will help a bit. Doubt some unbolting of the diff scenario will work due the exhaust going under the diff.
All i can say is im happy that my insurance comes with free AA roadside assistance nation wide. AA stands for Automobile Association in New Zealand NOT Alcoholics Anonymous. Would be rather amusing to dial for a 12 steep program to change a flatty stuck in a wheel well.

Now this is all nutted out its time to get the certifier involved just to make sure he is happy with it all. No point cutting then to find out it wont meet cert. Hope he gets out there this week but i doubt it unfortunately. Im bleeping eager to get Flockie welding shit up.

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When Flockie called saying come over and rip out the seats n stuff cus the car will be going on the rotisserie an image of the crudson slowly rotating in a giant BBQ flicked through my head.
What can i say i love BBQ and for the last years I have done rotisserie turkey with good results at xmas. A bit of Apple & orange glaze with a touch of manuka smoke and yeah good times.

Of course this isnt what he had meant but i still find it a rather humorous image.

Saturday the better half and i rolled up with rubbish sacks & got to work. Front seat was already unbolted so removing the seats was simple. Rats really had had a field day in the seats. stuffing, crap & walnut shells littered every inch of the interior.
Keep im mind we already had filled a sack or so of this junk when we did the first clean out. Another half sack was soon recovered with an easy other half sack still lodged in the seats springs. That can be attacked by the vacuum at a latter date.
Door sills also got removed. Will give them a clean up to see how they look. If i can track down some repo ones i may get them depending on price.

Bumper was stripped off. Original thought was to turn the three piece bumper into a one piece. Wield it together. cover up a few old bolt holes and get it rechromed. Maybe move the bumper guards more into the middle to frame the number plate. Re chroming is bleeping expensive and i can pick up a new triple plated bumper from the states way way cheaper. But if i was to do this then i would be staying three piece. Looking at the bumper Im thinking if it was deeper ie the measurement from top to bottom of bumper was larger it would look better as it would look lower. Ideas and suggestions? Anyone know if other Hudson steepdown models had a deeper bumper that would fit?
Rockers – the body panel that runs along the side of the car below the doors also removed.
The right hand side panel had a large rust hole. Was worried it may of also effected the chassis rails behind. Was relived to find this wasn’t the case. Both sides of the car showed to be rust free, dry and straight. Although looking inside the boxed frame there is a good 2inch or so of dirt that has accumulated inside the chassis rails. I aint kidding the rails are half full of dirt. Flockie just patted me on the back saying i was going to get very dirty and wet once the car was flipped on its side and waterblasted.

Loaded the seats and other parts we ripped out into the station wagon. Windows down and the car smelled a tad Ripe to put it mildly. Ratty piss n shit seats sure do have an aroma I wouldn’t recommend to anyone.

Car will be put on the rotisserie this week at some point.

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