Ashkellybarr Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 Discussion Thread: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/50119-ashs-89-aydub11/ So I've owned my little aw for nearly two years nowDatsuns, Mazda and toyotas from 70's80's really flow my juices so..Reason for buying was I wanted something older with some stylish flare yet quick, turns, and reasonable price for maintance partsSo the aw with vented big brakes, supercharged motor, 80's AF styling, small, light weight with parts shared from Corolla's that I can get off the shelf at repco the aw11 made senseWith the intention of keeping it standard I was quick to realise a 200k,km 4agze didn't quite cut the mustardAfter a couple track days with a friend with wide wheels and nice shocks coasting around me in his AW, well, we can't have that can we I've been on anouther forum for a while so I'll post up photos and brief walk throws on some of the things Ive done and if anyone wants to know I'll elaborate more on what ever on 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 So here's when I first picked it up. Little ginger fellas Findley, he's pretty into the AW too Made a new shift boot. Used proper leather hide from a place at the end of my Eden rd. They sell raw and processed hide along with all the studs, needles and waxed thread you need to do whatever it is your doing 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 After not long the clutch slave went. Now you would think this would be simple but it turns out the aw slave is different to every other c series e series box Toyota. The bleed off is on a different angle because of the fire wall and all the other crap there. After not being able to sorce anouther I had to get the old one re-sleeved. Can't remember where I got this done but I'm sure there's plenty of guys on here who know where to get this done. First photos the repco, partmaster and anyone will give you if you ask them for one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 So after owning it for a while I was aware of some rust and worsen out joints So up it went on stands! First the rust The two main area aw's get rust is the front bumper iron and the wind screen sill. Usually the sill rust around the air intake for the AC/fan (I have photos of this if anyone wants them) The second is the bumper iron. The bumpers have a foam core that supports the plastic outer. Water and condensation sit between the foam and iron, especially around the indicators 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 Next was the bushes and joints, all this stuff I purchased from twosRus and I haft to say, service, product and price was pretty good. http://twosrus.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=21 Front and rear engine mounts go in these. Rear tie rods rust up pretty good too Huge improvement to handling and feel, would definitely recomend this to anyone with an AW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 Shiny Painted in black engine enamel to be hard wearing and heat resistant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 So while I was at it I got bored and decided re think the radiator flow and do some rust prevention in the form of new seal. For the seal I used this building product witch I can't see what it's called cause I've lost my glass' but it's in the photo. Like a paint on rubber that's pretty light as far as rubber concerned and dirt cheap at hard wear stores Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 Tubing added and some stitch welding was done through the front One thing that bothered me was how the radiator is set up from factory. It's tilted back so the air flows into the front, thew the rad, then under the car. Now as far sports cars this is a huge aerodynamic no no So a whole was cut in the bonnet, under tray made under the rad and rad tilted toward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 Bonnet was a lot of work. It's still not finished today haha I've got a thing for making things out of fibre glass, flat mates nick named me "epoxi ash" Added a lip to help create neg pressure for exiting air, but also to look more aggressive 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 Can't seem to add many photos at once. finished under try and rad supports Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 I mucked around a bit with some other not substantial things for a while but one thing that did happen that's to be weary of is the front engine mount. Where they bolt is pretty crape from factory. Running polythene mounts doesn't help either. I had a mate weld mine up but that annoying bloke at matrix garage sells a plate you can weld in witch looks to be a good solution Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 Picked up an aero tech front lip at the same time. Made some alloy lip, side skirt and spoiler extensions. Going to laminate them in carbon mat with a clear epoxi 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 Not really AW related but my flat mate bough a mini clubman estate. Since then we pulled the motor out, re-built it. Re-sprayed the whole car in factory color. Didn't have a crane when we pulled the motor out so pulled it using some strops hooked onto the deck 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 Puke 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 Now an old mate of mine from school had a burgundy aw11 with a trick 7agte. Now he pulled the engine to put in something else. Something to go drifting I can only presume. However that then left a snazzy aw11 with some snazzy parts. So I bought it haha this was ben old car, I found links to old school on his build thread Now for the Sad part. I had no space. Nor an engine handy, nor did I want to have two cars and spend money on it. Soooo.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 The good news is panels and rust cuts save three other aw11's That and I got some snazy parts for free 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 Now some time after cutting up the burgundy aw Harry offered me the 7a :/ Orwell. So its been pulled apart and rebuilt. New motor for the aw will be Full ported and polished head. 267/270 cams 8.9:1 Pistons Turbo I'm yet to buy but I've got my head set on a garret gtx2871r or a gtx3071r as aevo9 upgrade so I can still use the Same manifold and don't haft to run an external gate With the 3071 I should be able to crack 400hp with the bigger cams, head work and better IC set up Pedals is one I've modified to sit out and over more to help reduce movement needed to heal toe 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 With my Gbox developing a little crunch into 3rd it got me thinking about Gbox options. The e51 is a strong box don't get me wrong, mine being LSD too, and it might just need a fluid change. But the e58 shifts far better (duel syncro's and better leaver arrangement I'm told) and coming with a tighter LSD I thought it might be a good idea. One came up cheap with axels and ae111 twin pots And anouther that seems in good nick I got for $80 so I cant complain! Only problem was the shifter! I had a c52 aw11 shifter assmembly sitting around and measured them up. The c52 shifter case cover bolted onto the e58 as well And the selector spines on the shafts are the same too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 So to get to work.. Shafts hardened steel so I had to grind threw about 3mm before it was soft enough to drill. The grooves I just cut with a thin angle grinder disk, and just turned the shft in a table vice. Worked better then I thought, and taking my time it came up mint, all the clips fitted perfect Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 The other thing I had to do was drill the other side of the gear box casing then press a seal in for the new leaver location So here's where I am now SSR formal mesh 4x100 15x7.5 15x8.5 +20 How ever to clear the brakes I'm getting spacers CNC'd so they will poke anouther 10mm, maybe 15mm on the front. Believe it or not it's cheaper to get them cnc'd then made in a lathe Spacers will fixed to the hubs for cert Flyers an old flyer from 85 from the Toyota dealership advertising the AW 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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