nzstato Posted October 23, 2012 Share Posted October 23, 2012 So I spose I better tell you all about this... Kind of always wanted one, decided I needed something which I can tow a trailer with/cart stuff, but had to have some class... Guy I bought it off was just down the road in Mosgiel and has had it for 13 yrs and done most of the hard work. He has converted it to run a Nissan ED33 3.3L diesel with matching 4spd box and used it as his daily. He bought it as a project with a Holden6 in it and did all the rust repairs on the bulkhead, floors and rear crossmember. It has had a quick spray and the canvas roof is in relatively good condition (need to give it a clean and waterproof). So things to do... It needs replacement doortops, these ones are stuffed and have lots of crappy repairs, plus the windows rattle. Will probably get repros with new channels It is bloody loud - sure it's a diesel but you absolutely cannot have a conversation in this thing while on the road. Will be sound deadening the floor and firewall, plus look to get a quieter muffler It cant do road miles - being a diesel with no O/D it is absolutely wringing its neck out at 50mph with the std diffs. Will look to do a conversion with early rangerover diff heads as they are 10 spline and a straight swap. Of course it has high/low so I don't think I would loose anything in going to the 3.5 diffs. Other than that I'm chuffed. Have no real intention of finding large pools of mud to wade this thing through but would like to do some back country drives in it. Plus its going to be bloody handy to have something decent to cart stuff around in. discuss //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/34767-sams-landy/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzstato Posted October 28, 2012 Author Share Posted October 28, 2012 Had a look under this thing today. Checked all fluids and greased up all joints. Will need to do the swivel seals and the front driveshaft is stuffed (extension is starved of oil), more to add to the list. Currently tracking down some rangerover diffs, would be good to give the front/rear end an overhaul at the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzstato Posted November 25, 2012 Author Share Posted November 25, 2012 So some progress on this thing, it's just a ton of fun to drive. Bugger off old, rusted door tops, hello new ones which done rattle Also got new diffs from a S2 Range Rover, should get me the longer legs I need and good timing since the rear is starting to grumble. Have also bought some dynamat and dynaliner to quieten the bitch down, will fit it when I have the chance It was a nice day so I pulled the top off and drove around for a bit, if I had more time I'd pull the rest of the cage off, rolling like a bawes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzstato Posted December 27, 2012 Author Share Posted December 27, 2012 Out there doing it.... This was the start of load #4 I took to the tip... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzstato Posted January 7, 2013 Author Share Posted January 7, 2013 Painted the floor in POR15, added some drain holes and Sound deadened the firewall. Used a layer of Dynamat (Mongoose equalivent) and 1/4" Dynaliner. Quietened it down a fair bit in the cab (still noisy though) but it has a fair bit of rattle on when at idle - going to try and find some softer engine mounts. Obligatory articulation shot 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest nzstato Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 So I better come back and make a contribution to the forum.... Been putting of swapping these diffs over due to other comittments. Was underneath checking all of the fluid levels and noticed once of the swivel hubs was leaking BROWN oil. Knew what this meant so whipped off the drain bolt and out poured a whole lot of water from the swivel casing, This was something to press me to action. Drove it into the shed and promptly began stripping the front drive member down... And now I have a whole lot of grubby bits on my bench... You can see on this halfshaft UJ the brown, oil which has been sitting in water. So, everything is essentially going to be replaced, both of the halfshaft bearings were quite badly pitted. Its all relatively straight forward and after ringing around for some quotes it is still cheaper ordering from the UK (inc shipping) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzstato Posted May 11, 2013 Author Share Posted May 11, 2013 Big box of parts arrived from the UK, good price a pretty quick delivery really. But before using these parts I plan to check these rangerover diffs I bought before I put them in. Went down and had them dipped to clean off all of the old oil (now the consistancy of grease) Made up this little jig to check the backlash.... Hmmm thats not good, suppose to be between 0.004 in and 0.007 in It is pretty apparent that the car these came out of has done alot of ks in 2wd with VERY little of the rear diff oil changed. The rear had significant backlash but the front was smack in the middle of factory specs. Either way though, these bearing are stuffed.... I do hope I remember how to put this all back together.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzstato Posted May 18, 2013 Author Share Posted May 18, 2013 Bit more assembly going on.... roughly cleaned and painted the front axel housing, got both swivel housings buttoned up: Setting swivel bearing preload - bang on 14lb Everything has been replaced, these halfshaft bearings are pretty $$$ Now, in the 90s Land Rover switched the lubrication they used in the swivel housings from SAE90 to this 'one shot' grease. With this stuff it is now "filled for life" and (more importantly) will not leak anywhere near as much as the oil due to the swivel housings being a bit worn... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzstato Posted July 7, 2013 Author Share Posted July 7, 2013 So, finally got a chance to put these diffs together. First, press all the new bearings on to the pinion and carrier. Then slot in the pinion with the shims for the top bearing, the rover diff is good that you use shims to adjust the crush, alot now days use a crush sleave. Then you can check the bearing preload, the spec for this is 8-12 inch pounds of torsion. The steel rod below is 4.5" from the centre of the pinion to where the scale pulls from, around 2lb is perfect. Sit the carrier into the housing with the adjusters, then use the crownwheel side adjusting nut to take up the back lash. Ive got just a shigh over 4thou of backlash here at the tightest spot, 4-7thou is perfect. Also double checked the mesh at this point with some bearing blue. Checked the total bearing preload, now up to 18-22 inch pounds. All happy you can now fit the pinion seal and the cotter pins. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzstato Posted July 10, 2013 Author Share Posted July 10, 2013 As I mentioned I needed to sort out a filler bung for the rear axle. The old rover diffs had a fill plug on the top of the pinion housing while range rovers (which these diffs are out off) have plugs on the axle itself. For some reason the front diff I have here already has this so I am sorted.... I was pondering what to use, was thinking weld in a O2 sensor fitting then find a suitable bold, then I realise I'm probably not going to need all 3 complete 4.6 ratio diffs I have.... After a little clean up with the welder I have a perfect threaded fitting I can weld in with a suitable brass plug. Crank up the welder and go nuts... Tomorrow I should have these back in the chassis. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzstato Posted July 12, 2013 Author Share Posted July 12, 2013 Whole lot of the lads turned up for some bevvies last night. After a few I convinced some of the larger ones to lift the diffs in. Bit of swearing and cursing and I didnt even need to lift a finger.... Should be able to get it all bolted in and the hubs on over the weekend. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzstato Posted July 21, 2013 Author Share Posted July 21, 2013 And it is all back together.... So so happy with the diff change, it feels as if I have dropped everything down a gear (i.e. old 4th is now 3rd...), it flys along in 4th at not much rev. Speedo is now way off (not something I am going to have to bother about) but may have to take a look at the steering box at is very twitchy at speed. Also noticed when putting the rear diff in that someone has added some bracing somewhere along the line. Original owner was the NZ pest board so may have been done way back then... Considering pricing up what a new canvas roof will cost me.... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzstato Posted October 1, 2013 Author Share Posted October 1, 2013 So decided to go for a lil drive to dust the cobwebs off... Any guesses where this is? Need to get a council permit for the forestry blocks some time. Some good topo maps for where all the paper road are online as well. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzstato Posted February 11, 2014 Author Share Posted February 11, 2014 Nothing too serious, just a nice day to be driving about.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzstato Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 Slowly getting rid of the rattles on this thing. Bought some defender door seals to fit. These are perfect as long as you drill out the rivets for the old seals and grind of the 'lip' which goes around the door frame. Also dealing with the door top fitment too. When I got these repros I mistakenly though they would fit up fine. The need significant tweaking otherwise the front corner of the frame sits proud (and lets the water in). I've had to take all the glass/channels out to do it so just waiting for the sealant to dry. Quick burn up the gravel road shows the doors sit firm/nice (also rebuilt the door hinges at this point too). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzstato Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 P.S. Also swapped out the free wheeling hubs (stuffed) for the standard drive flanges - wont make too much of a difference to me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzstato Posted April 30, 2014 Author Share Posted April 30, 2014 Done a bunch of things which make this a whole lot better, most of which you cant see... Redid rear chassis spring bushes (prick of a job) Tweeked door tops and reglazed Tightened steering box mount to stop flexing. And, bonnet mounted the spare, good? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzstato Posted May 5, 2014 Author Share Posted May 5, 2014 It's bigger brother has arrived. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzstato Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 Failed WOF on: Speedo not working Rust in A-pillar (I picked the bog out the other week) Rear wheelbearing seal leaking All of which I knew about, should get this done tonight/tomorrow as this is required for marshalling in the Otago Rally this weekend. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzstato Posted May 9, 2014 Author Share Posted May 9, 2014 Boom yo Have already had a few people interested in this so not sure if it'll make trademe.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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