datto_610 Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 Discussion thread I've been lurking on here for a while now and thought it was time post up my build thread. I rescued this car from a farm down south about 5 years ago. The plan was to get it going and just daily it for a while but the motor leaked oil pretty hard and the spare I had would only run on 3 cylinders and couldnt work out why. So purchased a CA18DET and gearbox and the project began. Plans are to make it a sleeper so will be keeping the stock paint job for sure Done a few mods to the motor including an SR20DE throttlebody with intake mani ported to suit, mitsi 450cc injectors, T25G turbo and an RB20 AFM Pretty nice fitment of the intercooler Holes cut for intercooler piping Engine bay is painted satin black Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datto_610 Posted June 9, 2012 Author Share Posted June 9, 2012 Starting to put things back in. Exedy Heavy Duty cushion button clutch R200 VLSD all assembled and painted. There are alot of things that Ive missed but will update on the latest news when I pull finger and get back out to the garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datto_610 Posted June 10, 2012 Author Share Posted June 10, 2012 I got brand new seals for my diff about a week ago and finally got the motivation to install them today. One side went in fine but the other side is proving to be difficult I tried to force it in but that just damaged the seal so now I need another new one . Feels quite burred where the seal is meant to sit so will need to sort that out and buy a new seal to replace the one I stuffed. Cant put the new oil in till thats done too. Feeling rather annoyed that I couldnt finish off my diff I decided to grease up the moustache bar bushes and install them into the bar ready to go once the diff is done. More good news though Dan1200SSS from NZ datsun is coming round tomorrow to help me with my turbo dump pipe another thing to check off the list before start up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datto_610 Posted June 19, 2012 Author Share Posted June 19, 2012 Pictureless update but the rear end is out now so I can grease up all the bushes, somehow managed to overlook that when I put them in a while back. Also rear crossmember is ready for slotting to take out some negative camber and increase toe in slightly, any tips to what I should use to slot the holes? Die grinder? I dont have access to a gas plant but could imagine that getting quite messy in the wrong hands. I can use compressed air work but a die grinder will take a while/noisy as. Fuel tank is finished! Will be picking that up tomorrow night hopefully so will get more pics in the next couple of days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datto_610 Posted June 21, 2012 Author Share Posted June 21, 2012 Update with pictures this time! Picked up my fuel tank last night from Nicks place and he did an awesome job on it. Just need to flush it out a few times to make it all nice and clean again. Will need to get some bolts to fasten the cradle to the tank, sort the wiring and the fuel lines out a lick of paint and its done! Purchased a plumb back bov last week and that arrived at work yesterday, was rather cheap and being black matches the theme I'm going for. Intercooler pipes are being made by Autobend and getting my caliper brackets made by them too. Last but not least when I was removing the rear cross member I noticed there were a few brackets, bolts and a brake line that hadnt had the zinc treatment so took them into work and there like new again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datto_610 Posted August 15, 2012 Author Share Posted August 15, 2012 I finished my intercooler pipes off a while ago but forgot to update my thread. Gave a template to autobend which was a couple of bent up curtain rails. They costed a fair bit but needed to be done. They were made a lot longer than needed so had trim quite a bit off had to start cutting small bits off at a time then testing it when I got home then back to work to cut more off... But finally finished and Im stoked with the result. All I need to do now is get some fittings welded on to the pipe on intake side for the blow off valve and the cold start and idle control. Dont have much room for the turbo intake pipe but now that the cooler pipes are done I can at least work something out. Pipes will be getting anodised satin black once they are fully finished for that extra stealth look. Have decided to go all out on an adjustable rear crossmember which James(85_Z31) is designing for me. Will be cutting the old control arm mounts off this weekend ready for the new mounts to go on which will hopefully be made soon so we can test fit it all up. Had an issue with the caliper brackets that autobend also did for me. The CAD drawing I gave them had the thread size M12x1.25 specified for two of the holes on the bracket. So they decided to cut them at 12mm and as we all know I cant run the tap through that Getting them remade and hopefully wont need to pay twice for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datto_610 Posted August 19, 2012 Author Share Posted August 19, 2012 Well theres no going back now. Hacked off the control arm mounts on the rear crossmember today. Had to butcher it as there isn't much space to get the grinder in there to do a good job of it. Just need to grind off the welds where the old mounts are and somehow find a rather small grinder to remove the rest of it as they are a folded piece welded to the crossmember. Pics will explain better than I have so here they are. Also my arms have been sandblasted and will be getting zinc plated then powder coated as with the rear crossmember once the adjustable set up is finished. Hope its nearly done James! Have to move out of my place in a few months so will need to get it rolling again before then. I need to enlarge the holes in the control arm and crossmember to fit the bigger handbrake cables for the R31 calipers, finding a large drill bit hasn't been easy as think I'm going to need quite a biggie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datto_610 Posted September 11, 2012 Author Share Posted September 11, 2012 Iv'e been doing a few things here and there just slack at posting any progress. Got my RX7 brackets made properly this time just need to tap out the outer holes on the brackets then tap the ears on the struts to bolt the brackets up. Fuel tank has a coat of satin black paint its not too bad you'll never see it anyway just need to find the other rubber thing that sticks to side as I lost one . Vacuumed the boot out man what a mess that was! Once I've found the rubber thing tank will be going in for good and fuel lines will get sorted. Bought a 7/8 m/c from the states that turned up at work yesterday, got home hoping that it would bolt up no worries but I was wrong grrr. Its from a 720 ute but thought they would be the same. The 15/16 one from a 280zx I have fits fine just the bleed nipples are on the wrong side. I might be able to take a bit of material out of the spacer that bolts to the booster and hopefully will fit up then, any thoughts? Clutch master is fitted up for good got that ages ago and only recently got round to installing it. Brackets for adjustable rear end are made hopefully mocking it up this weekend! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datto_610 Posted September 17, 2012 Author Share Posted September 17, 2012 Progress report! James(85_Z31) and I were up nice and early yesterday working on my adjustable rear crossmember. Spent most of the day grinding back the old welds from the original brackets took so long as theres not much room to get an angle grinder in there. Hard work finally paid off when we got one side tacked up just need to finish cleaning up the other side and we'll be tacking up the rest of the brackets hopefully this weekend. Anywho here are some pics enjoy! Once the other side is tacked up Ill get someone to tig weld the brackets then get it crack tested, sand blasted, zimc plated, powder coated done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datto_610 Posted October 18, 2012 Author Share Posted October 18, 2012 Well I've shifted for the 2nd time this year, lets hope the 180 can move under its own power next time I have to shift. I bolted and fitted a lot parts back on to make it easier to move again, also cut the rear springs by 1 and a half coils to try and match the lowness of the front. I probably wont end up using these springs just want to use them as guide for when I finish the rear suspension. It could go a little bit lower but I'll leave it for now. Took some pics before I moved with the slam etc oh and intercooler is fully mounted painted satin black and looking pretty stealth. I need to find another one of these curved washers for my rear shocks. Misplaced the other one so in the meantime Im usiing a flat one but would rather use the correct washer for the job. I measured it but cant remember what the dimensions are now. The move was going oh so well until I was pushing the 180 off the trailer I was steering it into the garage and was also pretty close to the fence. Came off the trailer a bit too fast and I ended up getting pinned between the 180's drivers side front guard and the fence, managed to get free and noticed a huge Greg shaped dent on the front guard Pretty devastated but will just get it fixed and move on.... On more positive news my latest purchase arrived today, They are Konig B-Bombs which are pretty much a looka like SSR MKiii, haters are gonna hate but I'm not that bothered by it. One day after the cars done I'll save up and get the real deal. They are 15x7.5'' OP which is roughly the size I was after was hoping to get 15x8's but these will do. Not quite 100% about tyre size yet. Was thinking of getting 195/50/15's but Im open to suggestions also can some of you recommend me some decent tyre brands?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datto_610 Posted November 28, 2012 Author Share Posted November 28, 2012 Havn't really done anything to this lately really need to pull finger..... did get some flash new wheel nuts for my wheels though even did a test fit! Still don't have tyres need more $$$$. Also got a few things a while back that I forgot to mention, scored a muffler from James 85_Z31 and got a 3'' to 2.5'' exhaust reducer off trade me a while back. Will be getting a 3'' V band clamp when I have some coin spare and will ask Nick M very nicely to weld it onto my dump pipe and the other end to the reducer then I can get a shop to do the rest. The wheels seem to fit ok but need tyres to really know how well they'll sit. Fronts stick out a bit hoping I can tuck them in, rears fit sweet but will fit much better once I finish my 610 adjustable x member currently using a 510 one at the moment(has 4mm less track either side than 610 xmember). Need to just man up and do this fuel line been putting it off for much too long! Anyway heres some piccys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datto_610 Posted December 8, 2012 Author Share Posted December 8, 2012 Aw yeah! Got a pair of tyre's fitted up to two of my wheels(thanks Brock and Chris W) Made use of the good weather today and did a test fit. Looks pretty mean! But looking at each side from the top of the guard it look's like something isn't quite right. Passenger side tread pokes out just a tad from under the gaurd and drivers side fits in real nice(that gaurd does have the big dent in it though) Maybe thinking my crossmember isn't centered?? Will do a measure up and see what's going on. Passengers side Drivers side Also thinking I could go a bit lower in the front, but pretty sure the front crossmember is just over 100mm off the ground so maybe not?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest datto_610 Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 Because I'm still buzzing over nats thought it was good time to update my thread. I had to shift out of my house at the beginning of feb for EQC repairs which also meant I had to move the 180 out too. James(85_Z31) was so amazingly kind enough to let me store it at his house in goon for freebies on the condition that I actually came out and worked on it. So pretty much every sunday I go out and work on my car and holy shit this is getting so close to actually running that I can't believe it. So many pics to upload may have to do it in a few posts. Anyway here it goes. Adjustable rear crossmember is about 90% done just need to get a slot milled into my custom made control arm bolts and drill and tap the holes in crossmember for the locking bolts, Intercooler pipes are also finished just need to take them into work sometime and give them the satin black anodised treatment, Oil catch can also mounted just need to run hoses. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest datto_610 Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 Front brakes are also very close to completion not a hell of a lot clearance from caliper to wheel but should be fine. Black zinc caliper brackets for max win. Had to use M14 cap screws which I managed to find pretty cheap and luckily James' work had M14 fine taps too. Turbo dump pipe has been tidied up and now I can actually use the the bolt hole at the bottom has also had V band flange welded to it and heat proof ceramic paint and heat wrapped for max insulation. Installed and ready for straight off the dump pipe loudness test start, Had to use 2x bolts 1x stud and 2x cap screws as there is not much room in there. Not looking forward to re-tightening it after it's been warmed up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest datto_610 Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 Ride height is pretty much set and all I can say is dam this thing makes we firm looking at it at the moment and I hope it does the same to you too! Heres some super techincal stuff that took a bit working out for my rear springs. Due to the rear coils being in front of the hub I need a rear spring at about 1045lbs which gives the equivalant of 275lbs(front springs) with the leverage rate of the rear control arms. Just have cut down standards in at the moment but will look into getting my custom made ones soon Cooling system is pretty close to being finished also radiator is in for keeps and using old sway bar bushes as spacers between the body and radiator. The hoses are where things get ridiculous. Due to the silcon joiner from the throttle body being so close to the remote filler for radiator had to get a bit creative with piping. Observe. Looks like it will work ok so will just run it, all I need to finish it off is some steel pipe adapters to join the rubber hoses together. That's where I'm at with her at the moment. I'm looking into running a stainless braided line from tank to motor for shear ease of mounting plus can get the braided stuff pretty cheap. As far as I'm aware it's all g to do this but if anyone knows if you can't tell me soon! So when fuel line is done boom start her up! Then work on getting it driving woohoo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datto_610 Posted April 26, 2013 Author Share Posted April 26, 2013 Bit more progress has been made. Have pretty much got all the things I need to finish my fuel line yay! John(broke from NZ Datsun) attached some special fittings to my fuel rail and fuel cradle and mocked up the line under the car to see how long it needed to be so very soon I hope to be able to start her up! I forgot to mention that I fashioned up a bracket to keep my radiator filler level it's now been plated in black zinc but don't have a pic of it plated. Also found some steel pipe at work to use as pipe joiners for the rad hoses cut them down and James put a few tack welds on them so the hose can't slip off, and of course I plated those too hehe. Hopefully next update will be more exciting! Swish ali fuel filter I'm going to need to space my fuel tank up about 20mm so I can run the hoses from the cradle underneath the tank and out through the factory hole in the floor for the original fuel line. Just need to get some P clips to secure line to the underbody then its fingers crossed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datto_610 Posted May 12, 2013 Author Share Posted May 12, 2013 Today I achieved something pretty amazing. For the first time ever I fired up the CA18, so happy. I'm pretty much speechless so I'll just let the 180B say it for me Oh and yes there is oil in the engine just forgot to remove the label due to all the excitement 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datto_610 Posted June 3, 2013 Author Share Posted June 3, 2013 In more positive news. Nick Murchison did an amazing job of welding a platform onto my front struts for the threaded sleeves to sit on. They are now back in the car and will get them crack tested closer to cert time. With the special control arm pins made and slot made in the head for the locking bolts I was able to mark out where the adjuster bolt holes needed to be drilled and tapped into on the camber adjustment side. Started to drill the hole but due to the position of the plate on the crossmember I'm going to need a really long drill bit to get it all the way through. But at least it's all marked out and ready to go. For the toe adjustment I marked out where the hole needed to be and was easily able to drill a small pilot hole. I'll be getting two M8x1.25 flange nuts to be welded into the crossmember for the toe adjuster locking bolt. Once that is all done rear crossmember will be going back in along with my diff and axels so I can then measure up my driveshaft length. May make a start on front and rear brake lines but will see how I get on with my engine woes. Forgot to post up a few pics of the fuel lines when I fitted them a while back so heres a few snap shots pretty pleased with how they came out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datto_610 Posted June 28, 2013 Author Share Posted June 28, 2013 Finally got the head off last Sunday, not quite as bad as I thought but still bad enough, It would appear that small chunk of ali has gotten into the engine somehow and #4 piston has smashed it into the head which is the cause of that ticking sound. There is a little damage to the top of the piston but should be ok with a little bit of a scuff. Got some quotes today for the repair work and all were pretty much the same so head is now at HPE and they'll start it on monday, might get the cams ground while they're out too. So all going to plan once head is fixed I'll be able to fire her up again and have no horrible noises! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datto_610 Posted August 2, 2013 Author Share Posted August 2, 2013 I keep forgetting to update my thread here as for some reason I can't upload pics from my phone direct to the forum? Anyway. Got head back from HPE in under a week which was sweet. They did a top job on the repair and did a valve grind and bleed my lifters also. Smoothed out #4 piston where it had been contacting with the foreign object that was in the head should be all good now. Also removed old waterpump while I had easy access to it, lucky I did! It was full of crud and looked like it may had been the original one from factory.... heaps of crud in block too got all that out and fitted a new replacement pump. Head is now back on as well as everything else except crank pulley. Thinking I may be able to remove the starter motor and put something in there to stop the flywheel from moving so I can torque the crank pulley bolt up. Then she should be good fire up again! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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