DJZ Posted September 25, 2012 Author Share Posted September 25, 2012 Hmm something didn't look right when I investigated the wastegate flapper position. Not too sure what was going on, it looks like the tube piece the wastegate flapper runs it had been pushed into the flapper housing which is the cause of the sticky flapper too, I should have thought about this earlier as I think when Zac and I were dicking around with the last one we found one the tube can move in a out with a little bit of persuasion. I got it pretty much back into the correct position then ported the crap out of it, probably slightly too much as the puck was catching just on the edge of the hole closest to the flapper rod, I managed to get it into a position where it wasn't touching so hopefully it's all good. Old turbo vs. new turbo, it's a little bit bigger but not much. I ended up swapping the FJ turbo exhaust housing on to the T3/4 as the VG30 exhaust housing didn't have a O2 sensor bung and I don't want to drill the exhaust just yet. Everything is all lined up and ready to be put back together, I need to grind a little bit off the engine mount just to make it easier to get the turbo on and off, it'll fit but it's tight the way it is. Need to find a 2.5" to 3" reducer for the compressor inlet, I think I've got one somewhere from when I had it on the RB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJZ Posted September 26, 2012 Author Share Posted September 26, 2012 Got the turbo on tonight, initial test drive seems good - it's holding boost much better than previously it looks like the actuator is around 0.35 bar which is around 5psi. The boost controller probably needs to be reset as it was set at 0.50 bar but doesn't seem to be trying to get to that. Car feels like it has a little bit more torque, it's a bit hard to tell. Feels slower due to the lack of boost, I need to install the MTX-L wideband gauge I got from Zac then see about winding it up, I'll have a go at that tomorrow. The MTX-L is pretty cool and it has a narrowband output so I can run that to the computer and it'll be just like having the factory O2 sensor there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJZ Posted September 29, 2012 Author Share Posted September 29, 2012 Well it's taken most of the day but I've got the wideband 95% installed. Just need to take it down to work to chassis punch the hole in the floor a little bit bigger to get the plug through, I had all but one of the pins in the plug out but I just couldn't get the last one to move. I spent ages trying to figure out a way of mounting it where I didn't have to cut anything or drill any holes. It's screwed to one of the mounting screws for the surround with a little aluminium bracket, it's pretty sturdy and I don't think it looks too bad. I popped out the air con button as it's got no aircon now so that's the hole the wires are running through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJZ Posted October 4, 2012 Author Share Posted October 4, 2012 The start of something awesome? Maybe! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJZ Posted October 7, 2012 Author Share Posted October 7, 2012 Was round at my mates today loading one of his R30 wrecks onto a trailer and after running over 2 of my toes with a trolley dolly I thought I'd grab the missing bits to fix the rear bumper being loose on the DR, was a 2 minute job to remove them from the HR30. Got home, had a quick look at the DR and of course it's completely different. Ended up removing the bumper and pulling the whole thing to pieces. Lots of rusty bolts, I broke 2 off that are part of the clamp for the top of the bumper (the bits on the rag in the 2nd picture), there were 8 or 10 bolts holding it together so I flagged fixing them, weight reduction yeah? Replaced all the other bolts with staino ones and put anti seize on them, I doubt I'll ever have to pull it apart again but if I do everything should come undone nice and easy. The bumper bolt that was missing was actually broken off, I took the bracket off, drilled out the spot welds for the nut, tacked a new one on and painted it, fitted a new staino bolt and put everything back together. There was a little bit of rust here and there under the bumper so I treated and painted that at the same time. Also removed the number plate to have a look at what was going on underneath, the awesome people that imported and registered this had for some reason cut this number plate frame in half and fitted it under the new number plate, no idea why. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJZ Posted October 17, 2012 Author Share Posted October 17, 2012 Finally managed to track down some new leads, they are Champion ones and are a little bit funny, you have to reuse the top seals from the original leads but there isn't really a nice place for them to sit. Got to be better than the leads from 1992 though. New lead in the background. Finally got round to buying a proper socket for getting the filler bung out of Nissan boxes. It's a 17mm 8 point socket. The bung was very tight, I ended up bracing the power bar against the floor then lowering the car to get it undone. Now I'm no gearbox expert but I'm pretty sure these weren't supposed to come out with the oil. They are parts of a bearing cage and I suspect it's probably the countershaft centre bearing. The box has been noisy since I got it, it's probably been rooted for a while. The oil was quite thin and very, very grey/black. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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